wesmc

Wow..1085 naked and we need to be at 1950 race weight to take advantage of the '72 SCCA GCR. It is looking tough to do.

I was hoping to get super-lucky and find a *.sldprt, *.sldasm, *.slddrw If not that then an actual part.

Checked both of those threads and found no source still working, brackets for sale, or files/drawings ect.

Built a nice hot-rod 2.8 for the 240z track car. The stock brakes are not going to cut it now. I am doing the whole 280zx swap and want 280zx calipers on the rear of my 240. I have the calipers and rotors. Need brackets and was hoping someone had some leftovers, a source for the parts, or a mechanical sketch of the adaptor brackets. I have searched and cannot find them available anywhere any longer.

This is where I have to get....vintage rules allow me 1950lbs so I have 300 to go. I may have to PM you for some help moving into your neighborhood.

My 72 with a 2.8 NA, most interior removed, roll bar with backstays, all glass still in, gutted dash just scaled at 2254.

Thanks for the diagram Zed, will make things tons easier. Beerman, I will check that wire, I have only checked the exciter. I'll also look for a test procedure for the regulator. Thanks

I have a very early 1970 240z barn find. Clean little car and I replaced starter, alternator, battery, ect just because she was parked for so long. Wiring in the engine bay looks like new. Car is overcharging the bejesus out of the battery, so I replaced the voltage regulator. Still overcharging. Have 12v on the exciter wire. I checked the grounds and all seem to be fine. I have continuity between the ground wire pin on the regulator harness and between the body of the alternator and the negative post on the battery. Amp meter on the dash is working and is buried on the high end when the car is revved up. The output wire off the alternator gets HOT. Verified high output with DVOM. Any thoughts on why she is still overcharging with a new regulator?

I Didin't think of that...thanks!

Thanks, that is how I was reading the info here but have been known to make mistakes. I will now have 1 pretty decent spare 240z, one pretty snotty 280z (4speed), and one total basket case 280zx. I think I should build another chumpcar

Thanks to you guys my 240 is way to quick to live with the 4-speed. I finished building the Subie diff over the weekend and was looking at 280z 5-speeds. I found a whole 280zx w/5-speed for less than the z tranny ($400.) What I understand from research here is that between the two cars I will have all the needed parts to swap the zx tranny in. Can someone verify this before I drop the $$ on the basket-case zx? Thanks

Thanks...now I have some piece of mind

O.K.....enough searching led me to this: http://www.mysubie.com/faq?id=8 Which once again does not say for sure that all 180's from STI's are lsd..but doesn't mention anything other than a Torsen being available for the STI so I am going to assume they all are unless I hear something different. I've ordered the part and will let you know. John sent me some great info on the OS/Giken..seemed like a better route but this car was supposed to be quick, cheap, and dirty. So much for that

Awesome..with all the quick cars here people lose sight of what a big deal it is to break 11...and you just broke 10! Strong work.

searching and searching I cannot find an "open" but at the same time still can't find a "Yes, they are all LSD" Looking at one from an '05 wrx sti.

I have not found one listed as "open." Tried to find an open just to be sure that I was buying the correct part and couldn't locate one. I am assuming then that they are all LSD. Anyone know if I am correct?

I think you sold me. This car started out as a budget build made mostly from stuff we had. That is already waay out the window so I might as well go all in.

Thanks John. I did get a bit of a shock when I saw the price, no cheaper than when we put them in the Porsche cars. In the Z is less understeer and greater durability why the Giken is preferred?

71 240z, L28 block clearanced for valves, port'n'polish head, 280z valves, flat tops, SK carbs, conservative race/aggressive street cam. Stock 4 speed for the time being, plan to go 5-speed after recovering from the $$ spent so far. Motor turns very strong but now the one wheel squeal is unbearable. Reading and reading tells me go with the subie 180lsd and get Johnc's side axles. Car is at 2200lb, less than 210rwhp, and is road race only, will never drag race. Am I on the right track?

http://s1323.beta.photobucket.com/user/RennsportKC/library/#/user/RennsportKC/library/?&_suid=136146138717109476652811697478 This is where I'm dumping photos of the HSR racer I'm doing. Just in case someone is preparing to tear into their SK's there are a ton of pics in there, you'll get a pretty good idea of what you are getting into. I tried to shoot photos of all the major steps. Sorry they are not organized better but I couldn't figure out how to change the order of the pics. I'm new to photobucket, I'll work on that. -Wes

I agree with John. We run an German car shop and just last night I had a customer call and ask me to PPI a Benz of the same vintage. I told him of one I bought from a customer who didn't want to spend the money to chase the wiring issues it came in with. After three full days of work I was nowhere near the end of this cars gremlins. It now ran, but was full of other issues. I sold it for what I paid, losing 24 hours of shop time. The acutal mechanicals of the car are straightforward. That said, when they are right they are the second most amazing luxury ride ever, IMHO. Buyer beware, keeping it in that shape won't be cheap or easy.

If you think that comment was related to you complaining because I didn't capitalize a sentence you are mistaken. After 13 years in combat arms my skin is much too thick. That was directed at more than one comment in this thread that (as I read them) indicated John was being too hard on people. I disagree and appreciate the help. You were not the moderator I saw calling people out in the forums for rediculous things...until today. So if you think a new member who donates right away needs to be banned for making a comment in support of another moderator, do what you've got to do.

And that quick it is gone again!

pasakZ- Did you ever figure this out?

Don't know if the bug got fixed...or becoming a donating member did it, but suddenly the "like" button works. I really enjoy that funcion here. I wish all the forums had it. I try never to lick paste, it shouldn't be pasty.