Briguy280Z

Yea the MAF is apart of the air cleaner, nice little setup but pulls in to much hot air. Speed and Performace parts in Arizona Nion, i tossed that shifter about 5 months ago i use a lou's short stick with a hurst nob. That one was made up to be able to drive the car....i should of saved it so i could sent it to you Well thats not so bad i guess...i plan on dyno sometime next month...finishing odds and ends before MotorSports Car show No programming has been done to the computer, it is stock and i rewired the harness....suprised everything works HEHEHE

Phantom, i used a street and performance intake and what i am finding out is that i pull in approx 190 degree air when i am not moving at operating temperature. After gaining some speed it does drop to about 100 degrees. After reading some forum i was told that 1% HP drop every 10 degrees above ambiant air temp. I like what mas28O did and sure will keep HP up when he hits operating temperature. My problem is that i have an electrical center and coolant overflow on the passanger side. I am going to try to use a cupple of 45 and 90's to get out on the drivers side. Also another idea was to punch out a hole in the wheelwell Any other ideas??? My Picshttp://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z/

Did you try to connect the intake comming in from the drivers side instead of the passanger side. Is the radiator hose too much in the way or do you think it would be possable to route it through? My problem is that i have a electrical box and the coolant container on that side. I would be nicer on the otherside....just wandering what you thought?

What did you use to clean the engine. I am scare to use anything since its all allumium. I am very interested in what u used for the cold air intake. I will be calling the ref in livermore to see when i can scheduel my inspection i will let you know how it goes.

I never said it was hard to connect the fuel system. The point was to prevent mistakes that I made with my conversion. My fuel lines around exhaust and hot points is covered with insulation and topped with sheet metal to keep everything kewl. If I was at the beginning of the conversion such as you I would do the return closer to the motor. i thought that there was a regulator in the tank like i had read in the GM service manual. I assumed the V-6 was the same way but i was wrong. I converted and removed one hard line and used the return line for the EVAP canister. It would be going out of my way and more expensive to return the fuel from the rail. FYI I will be visiting the Ref up their in concord. He has already passed one other LS1 smog legal conversion.

I am noticing that the LS1 swap is becomming more and more popular. This should help out with the fuel end of the swap. I had a problem with the regulator because i used an LS-1 fbody engine with a 6 cylinder fuel tank. One thing to keep in mind Fbody LS-1 fuel pressure regulator is in the fuel tank Corvette LS-1 has a return line at the rail Pre 99 Corvette 99-newer uses a fuel filter regulator mounted after the tank before the rail Fbody 6 cylinder tank has a fuel return line from the rail. S&P sells a nice new product that lets using any EFI tank with the Fbody fuel rail, and still maintains a return line. Fuel Regulator/Filter is priced lower than having to buy a converted fbody rail http://www.hotrodlane.cc/PRODUCTS/lssinglefuelkit.html I had to use this setup because i was running appx 79 psi at the fuel rail. Making the computer send p0172 and p0175 codes Fuel rich bank 1 & 2

I didnt know that there was a drive cycle until i stumbled onto it last night. I hope this helps all the LS1 guys out there. This is how to perform an OBD Type II Driving cycle: 1.) Cold Start. In order to be classified as a cold start the engine coolant temperature must be below 50°C (122°F) and within 6°C (11°F) of the ambient air temperature at startup. Do not leave the key on prior to the cold start or the heated oxygen sensor diagnostic may not run. 2.) Idle. The engine must be run for two and a half minutes with the air conditioner on and rear defroster on. The more electrical load you can apply the better. This will test the O2 heater, Passive Air, Purge "No Flow", Misfire and if closed loop is achieved, Fuel Trim. 3.) Accelerate. Turn off the air conditioner and all the other loads and apply half throttle until 88km/hr (55mph) is reached. During this time the Misfire, Fuel Trim, and Purge Flow diagnostics will be performed. 4.) Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for 3 minutes. During this time the O2 response, air Intrusive, EGR, Purge, Misfire, and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. 5.) Decelerate. Let off the accelerator pedal. Do not shift, touch the brake or clutch. It is important to let the vehicle coast along gradually slowing down to 32km/hr (20 mph). During this time the EGR, Purge and Fuel Trim diagnostics will be performed. 6.) Accelerate. Accelerate at 3/4 throttle until 88-96 km/hr (55-60mph). This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 3. 7.) Hold Steady Speed. Hold a steady speed of 88km/hr (55mph) for five minutes. During this time, in addition to the diagnostics performed in step 4, the catalyst monitor diagnostics will be performed. If the catalyst is marginal or the battery has been disconnected, it may take 5 complete driving cycles to determine the state of the catalyst. 8.) Decelerate. This will perform the same diagnostics as in step 5. Again, don't press the clutch or brakes or shift gears.

Hey ThumperZ Keep in mind your in CA!!! I am having some problems with the Referee with registering my LS-1 beast! Do a search and make sure you nail down a good game plan for the ref. You will need all equipment for emissions and OBDII setup. GM service manual helps the ease of wireing. Any help i can give, just ask! I am in Salinas, CA http://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z

I didn’t want to get into this discussion but I couldn't resist. First I would like to state that I started and completed my LS-1 conversion with very few posts about what is a better conversion than another or about how to do it. Most of it was done by the SEARCH Engine that Hybridz has provided. Allot of searches were made and I found valuable information without asking repetitive questions. If you had a question about one thing or another it should be posted in the topic you have read or if no one has touched the topic then post a new topic. By posting into the existing topic it will give history to the responder and make a clearer idea what your question entails without repeating information. I did a search to see what i could find under "LS-1 or LT-1" and checking the search for all terms. 3 different accounts of this topic with relatively the same information were found. Under less that 5 min time, i wish i could get some of my questions answered that quik. I am still working on the california referee question that nobody can answer. Check it out! http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24115&highlight=ls1+lt1 http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=1385&highlight=ls1+lt1 FYI Briguy280z (Thanks for the post) HEHE

Very Very nice install, engine compartment looks really clean. I didnt have the time to do that good of a job. I finally got mine on the road last week and man it pulls hard in every gear. Lost a wheel bearing last week also just finished doing the replacement. Took it for a 150 mile run back to the house and its so much fun. The exhaust noise does get to me after the first 50 miles. My bro jumped in the car with me so i thought i would give him a ride and explore boundries that i havent tried. (Too scared to take it to the floor) I layed into it almost to the floor and before i knew it 90 was pushing on the speedo. No time to think going that fast!!! I think the LS-1 is a prime canidate for the swap! Briguy280z 78 Datsun 280Z LS-1 http://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z/

I have a LS-1 78 280Z with Toyo 4 piston calipers, and in the rear i have drums. I replaced the Aluminum drums with cast iron off of a 510. I replaced all the Brake lines in the whole car and bled the brakes as per manual. I also replaced the brake master cylinder with a 2+2 master. (The old one was bad) Problems - When braking the system is really sensitive and tends to lock up the rears before the front. (Dont know if the fronts are working at all?) How would i know if the stock PV is working? or locked in rear postion? How can i prevent it from being so sensitive when braking? (can i adjust something?) Will a PV help stablize the rear to front brakes? Thanks for any help i can get!!!

Jeromio - I cut the compressor about 3/8" to get it as close to the bracket as possable and cut the bracket to get as close as i could to the engine. I also shaved the compressor on the outside to clear the frame. You will have to modify the tensioner drill and tap another location because when you move it, it will hit the pully. I used a 280ZX condensor, it mounts pretty easy onto the front of the car. I went to a auto air shop and they got me the connectors for the a compressor. I will try to get pics but its a little tight for a camera.

This is a hard question to field right now. I don't have a running total but all the shipping tags i have kept in a box. I dont know if i am scared to see the total or have my wife to see the total. I am trying to keep it underwraps for now. For a wild estimate 5-7k? Yes, I liked the look when i saw them so i forced them on. Spacers in front 1" and rear 3/4". 17x7.5 40-offset 4x4.5. 215/45ZR17 Front 225/45ZR17 Rear Nitto Neo Gen tires. Hope to get rid of the spacers when the coilovers go in! __________ If it wasn't a challange it wouldn't be fun!

Eight new pics of the LS-1 Z. This car hasn't seen paint in about 5 years. I am very happy with the result! I live in the Montery, CA area and trying to enter it into the Cherries Jublie i don't know if i can get it registered before then. If not it will be in the next MSA show. I hope you enjoy my work. http://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z Thank you for all the support! Briguy280z

Well the hard work has paid off. Car is 95% complete just a few odds and ends Third time driving the car today....cant go too far without plates and reg. The car is awsome and has lots of power!! With a new fresh coat of paint and wheels getting some double takes from a few people. Thank god for the rev-limiter a hose got stuck between the cable and lodged the cable wide open. Scared the sh^t out of me! I have quite a few codes to nail out. Mostly indicator light wires, but i have one with the O2 bank 1 looks like i might have to replace it..Check it out tomarrow The car now resides in the same city that i live. Makes it so much easier to work on. With the carpet kit completed all i have left is to clean up all the overspray and trimming. I will have some pictures sometime this week. Briguy280z

I to believe what Jeromio is saying....if i were you i would find a diffrent referee...last thing they want to here is your wrong!!! I dont like repeating but what i did what cut and paste out of your previous inquire. I know what your going through i am also doing a LS1 swap but with a 78 280z. When i talked to the referee he explained to me that all smog equipment and anything that would create the check engine light would have to be installed in the car. Even if the wheel sensors were OBDII specific. This doen't mean smog equipment only ergo fuel level sensor...if the computer doent notice a variance in resistance over time it will cause the MIL light to turn on-not emission but still OBDII- go figure? I got a GM service manual and traced what systems were OBDII specific. What i found was this. All Camero Equipment Air pump Air Silinoid OBDII Cats (new) All O2 sensors (4) Gas tank -including everything that came with it Original fuel level float. If not hooked up to the computer will throw a code Evap Canister Evap Canister control valve Computer fan control-(3 fan)will throw code if not connected VSS Signal Fuel tank pressure signal Pretty much every wire should be connected from your PCM or you will have your malfunction indicator light turn on. Exeption of the HVAC system. Wheel sensors are not required they are for your traction control and are NOT apart of the OBDII system!!! I pretty much printed out all the pages with the wire systems and are going to be submitted when i go to BAR registration. This is directly out of the manual just more info for you. I am just about done with my swap. *=important information. Circuit Description The speed sensors used on the front of this vehicle are multiple pole and the rear uses a single pole magnetic pickup. This sensor produces an AC signal that the EBTCM uses the frequency from to calculate the wheel speed. Conditions for Setting the DTC The EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right rear wheel speeds of greater than 6km/h (3.75 mph) at a vehicle speed of less than 100Km/h (62 mph) on vehicles equipped with TCS. The EBCM/EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right front wheel speeds of greater than 10Km/h (6.25 mph) at a vehicle speed of less than 100Km/h (62 mph). The EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right rear wheel speeds of greater than 6 % of the vehicle speed at greater than 100 km/h (62 mph) on vehicles equipped with TCS. The EBCM/EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right front wheel speeds of greater than 4 km/h plus 6 % of the vehicle speed at greater than 100 km/h (62 mph). This DTC will set when the EBCM/EBTCM cannot specifically identify which wheel speed sensor is causing the malfunction. If the EBCM/EBTCM can identify the specific wheel speed sensor causing the malfunction, DTC C0245 will become a history DTC, and the DTC associated with the sensor (DTC C0036, DTC C0041, DTC C0046, DTC C0051, or DTC C0056) will be set concurrent with DTC C0245. Action Taken When the DTC Sets A malfunction DTC stores. The ABS/TCS disables. The amber ABS/TCS indicator(s) turn on. ***** The Red BRAKE Warning indicator turn on. ***** This does NOT turn on the MIL Light so not OBDII i found this out before i started the swap so i think we are ok. I got tons of this stuff. If you want the service manual let me know i can make it avalible to you. or get it on ebay.

This is directly out of the manual.....dont look so sad ok just more info for you. I am just about done with my swap. *=important information. Circuit Description The speed sensors used on the front of this vehicle are multiple pole and the rear uses a single pole magnetic pickup. This sensor produces an AC signal that the EBTCM uses the frequency from to calculate the wheel speed. Conditions for Setting the DTC The EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right rear wheel speeds of greater than 6km/h (3.75 mph) at a vehicle speed of less than 100Km/h (62 mph) on vehicles equipped with TCS. The EBCM/EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right front wheel speeds of greater than 10Km/h (6.25 mph) at a vehicle speed of less than 100Km/h (62 mph). The EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right rear wheel speeds of greater than 6 % of the vehicle speed at greater than 100 km/h (62 mph) on vehicles equipped with TCS. The EBCM/EBTCM detects a deviation between the left and right front wheel speeds of greater than 4 km/h plus 6 % of the vehicle speed at greater than 100 km/h (62 mph). This DTC will set when the EBCM/EBTCM cannot specifically identify which wheel speed sensor is causing the malfunction. If the EBCM/EBTCM can identify the specific wheel speed sensor causing the malfunction, DTC C0245 will become a history DTC, and the DTC associated with the sensor (DTC C0036, DTC C0041, DTC C0046, DTC C0051, or DTC C0056) will be set concurrent with DTC C0245. Action Taken When the DTC Sets A malfunction DTC stores. The ABS/TCS disables. The amber ABS/TCS indicator(s) turn on. ***** The Red BRAKE Warning indicator turn on. ***** This does NOT turn on the MIL Light so not OBDII i found this out before i started the swap so i think we are ok. I got tons of this stuff. If you want the service manual let me know i can make it avalible to you. or get it on ebay.

I know what your going through i am also doing a LS1 swap but with a 78 280z. When i talked to the referee he explained to me that all smog equipment and anything that would create the check engine light would have to be installed in the car. Even if the wheel sensors were OBDII specific. I got a GM service manual and traced what systems were OBDII specific. What i found was this. All Camero Equipment Air pump Air Silinoid OBDII Cats (new) All O2 sensors (4) Gas tank -including everything that came with it Original fuel level float. If not hooked up to the computer will throw a code Evap Canister Evap Canister control valve Computer fan control-(3 fan)will throw code if not connected VSS Signal Fuel tank pressure signal Pretty much every wire should be connected from your PCM or you will have your malfunction indicator light turn on. Exeption of the HVAC system. Wheel sensors are not required they are for your traction control and are NOT apart of the OBDII system!!! I pretty much printed out all the pages with the wire systems and are going to be submitted when i go to BAR registration. let me know if you need more info!!

I used the Taurus fan for my ls1 install. same as you a two speeder with the orange and brown and slow and fast and black for ground. I connected to an ampmeter to the fast speed, it pins about 15-18A so i put a 30A fuse. I used a relay colume out of a gmc so that i can use both high and low speeds off the computer. Make sure that the relay goes to ground through the thermosister. Thats how most fords work. If your used to Datsun wiring it goes to power opposite from what you are doing. i found that out when i connected the LS1 PCM into the fuel pump. I had to dedicate a diffrent relay for that. Sounds like the relay they are supplying is cheep if it burns up that easy. This is how i would do it. 1. Connect accessory power to one side of the coil (unless you want it to run untill cool...then connect it to constant power) 2. Connect the otherside through the thermostatic sensor to ground. 3. Connect the fan power with 30A fuse through N/O and Common Simple Install Use a heavy duty relay that you took out when you did the V-8 install. it will work alot better and use a plug that was ment for it. Coolant shouldnt damage it, altho it is from pepboys! Good Luck Briguy280z

The heater control valve is close but does not hit. You could trim some of it down so that it will clear with about a 1/4". Operation of all controls and electrical is perfect i couldn't asked for a better place. You will not beable to see it when i put the front cover below the dash. It will not fit untill you remove the electrical connector bracket underneath the dash. Altho, i did have one problem. I will not beable to put the plastic cover over the wires on the connector. The wires are too tight to put them on there. You will not even see it so i decided to toss them...they were pretty hokie anyway. Good luck. Briguy280z

I put mine in that same spot right next to the blower. I removed the electrical connector holder and put it in the same hole. I removed the case from the computer drilled and tapped two holes and created a bracket to hold it up there with 16GA steel. Make sure that you have the connectors facing the right way or it will not connect the wires will be too short. This is how i did mine....I havent worked on it in about a month paint should be done next week.

I also used that method. I cut the plastic off the connector and used the quick disconnect portion it does have a ribbs. I used regular fuel line and a hose clamp. The guy at the local autoplace said "It's your life when you car goes up in flames" I of coarst didnt listen to him he just wants to make money. Not one leak at full pressure 58psi Brian

Hehe you better keep up Jeromio!! I do have a nice place to work in and the tools to use. One thing i realized is that a plasma cutter will cut time in half for cutting the old mounts out and other things too. It's about a 1/4 of an inch to the pass side. This was a very tight fit. I only have about an 1/8 of an inch between the frame and the compressor and a 1/4 to clear the stearing rod...maybe less I cut the compressor bracket as much as i could go with out it touching the engine. I have about 1/8 clearance between the rear oil fill bolt. I think i started with cutting 3/8" off the bracket and then grinded untill it was as perfict. One problem with doing this is that you will have to fill the tentioner hole and drill and tap a new one. Its too close and will hit the compressor pully. I did have to go half size on the belt, sucks cuz they cost twice as much as regular size belts. I got that idea from a thread in this forum. The relay box is from a late model GEO...I don't recommend using it though because it took about a day to see how it works. I cant use 2 relays in the box cuz of the way they are routed. I use it for the PCM power, fan relay, air pump and air pump solinoid. I used it for the fuses also. I had a 280zx relay box which would of worked a little better i think? I dont think this is an f-body radiator hose...It took about 4 trips to Autozone but finally came up with one that would fit. Real tight on the radiator side but perfict on the engine. I dont know the # off hand but i will look and see what it is. Thanks for the support Briguy280Z

Posting update Weekend was very successfull!! The 5V square wave circuit for the PCM worked perfectly...ran for a whole 1 min..Whoot Air Pump works 2 Speed Tarus fan works Electronics works Converted Power Steering pully works Drive shaft is in Brakes work Clutch works Things to do! Find some OBDII Cats and complete the exhaust system. Tires and Wheels - Using ARW 17x7.5 Estrella with Nitto 450 225x45x17 Paint BAR Registered....cant wait Check out some Pics...Any requests i can try to get some more pics to help http://fp2k.redshift.com/briguy280z/ This forum has been a real tool for this project...thanks to everyone Briguy280z

I didn't have my computer programmed. The reason is that i can make a circuit produce the 5v 50hz square wave to satisfy the PCM security circuit. Alot cheaper around 10 bucks than $300 to have it programmed. One of the main reason is thats its cheap the other is when i go to CARB to get registration I am sure they are going to ask how i bypassed the VATS, if i responed as "Well I UH UH reprogrammed....What! thats Illegal?" Just didnt want to take the chance. So everything sofar is as legal as possable!! All i have left is to convince him of that!!! Good luck on the wireing...that was a PITA. One thing to remember is that the PCM goes to ground. The datsun wireing goes to power. Kind of the opposite if you want to tie into the datsun stuff. I had a constant power wire that in all key positions was hot...I didt check run...(Ass-u-me-d) it was ok. Everytime i turned to run it would shut down the PCM and just turned over without starting. One days work wasted finding that mistake! One thing to keep in mind...Have fun!