Briguy280Z

i didn't go with the 1/8 steel bar is consists more of a 4"X2"X24" rectangular pipe. I am going to measure it up this weekend so i can post the dimentions. Something i keep postponing to do.

This contraversy has been dicussed in many threads but yet havent found any evidence that a cluch type is any better or worse than the Vicous. Most threads lean toward the viscous cuz the cluch seems to ware out? Depends on how hard the car has been driven with the CLSD. Doesnt matter much with the VLSD I think the one you have will work fine as long as you get the 4 bolt CV half shafts it will bolt in much easyer than the q45 or 300zxtt. 88 All White SS used a 3.7 Viscous Coupling LSD This info is just what i have read on the forum if i am wrong i am sure someone will let me know. I would use it

This is a dublicate post but the first post was in the V8 Chevy area..oops I just want to make sure my info is correct? I have done about a weeks worth of research on this rear diff thing and this is what i have as option...please let me know if i dont have this strait. I know that this has been beaten to death but any help would be nice? I think it would be nice to have the 3.7:1 gearing cuz the t56 final is to tall 1st Option- 5th month of 1987 to 1989 300zx cluch type r200 3.7:1 1 set of cv half shafts 1 set of cv adapter plates easy swap - hard to find! 2nd Option 1991 - 1996 300zxtt VLSD type R230 3.7 : 1 2 sets of CV half shafts 1 set new half shafts Fab front mount Redrill Mustache Bar new drive shaft hard to find 3rd Option 1990 - 1997 Q45 (1990 - 1996 300zx NA) VLSD Type R200 3.54 : 1 2 sets of CV half shafts 1 set new half shafts Fab Front Mount Redrill Mustache Bar New Drive Shaft Easy to find - any help would be nice

I have done about a weeks worth of research on this rear diff thing and this is what i have as option...please let me know if i dont have this strait. I know that this has been beaten to death but any help would be nice? I think it would be nice to have the 3.7:1 gearing cuz the t56 final is to tall 1st Option- 5th month of 1987 to 1989 300zx cluch type r200 3.7:1 1 set of cv half shafts 1 set of cv adapter plates easy swap - hard to find! 2nd Option 1991 - 1996 300zxtt VLSD type R230 3.7 : 1 2 sets of CV half shafts 1 set new half shafts Fab front mount Redrill Mustache Bar new drive shaft hard to find 3rd Option 1990 - 1997 Q45 (1990 - 1996 300zx NA) VLSD Type R200 3.54 : 1 2 sets of CV half shafts 1 set new half shafts Fab Front Mount Redrill Mustache Bar New Drive Shaft Easy to find - any help would be nice

VinhZXT - Document swap would of took me another 2 months to do. I posted about a year ago and said i was going to sit down and write what I did but I don’t do allot of sitting especially when i am thinking about doing the LSD Swap. I'll try harder.... Zmanaustin - Last year there was two LS-1 Z-cars Mine and MAS28O's. I never did get to see his he took off before i saw his car. But i think that’s the one your referring to. He has done allot to that car since then. My was panted in 2003 but I cleaned it up for 2004 and will do some more mods for 2005...keep everyone in suspense...lol I was hopeing he would of shown up this year i wanted to see his motor mounts....i really like how he did that. ------------------------------------------------------------------------- I forgot one thing....I just wanted to mention i did have help with this car. My father was an active worker on this project and i learned alot from him during this whole swap he got me out of binds that was hard to get out of. If you were at MSA last year and had the pleasure to meet my father he was a good man. He did pass-away this year in January and I my wife and many others missed him at the show. (Bill Griffin) -------------------------------------------------------------------------

I can't believe the turnout this year (Even with the rain)...and i met sooo many Hybridz owners and Z-car enthusiasts I was exhausted by the end of the day. What a weekend...I learned so much! I was amazed that I got second place this year never knew I even had a shot at it. Thanks for all that nice comments this year The pictures on my site are more than a year old...going to try to spend some time creating my new web page. I’ll post some MSA 2004 Pictures shortly

1. Year of motor/mods: 1998 stock LS1 soon LS6 intake with tuning 2. Tranny: T56 with custom "W" mount. 3. Kit used or explanation of your custom mounts:maichor style motor mounts...at this time looking at dressing up the motor a bit. 4. Any special accessories or parts needed for the swap, Custom fuel level convertion circuit stock fuel guage Camaro tank and Corvette style fuel pressure regulator(Nice reg/filter setup) 5. Date you started on the project, date finished: Bought the car in 94 started LS1 Sometime in 2002. LS1 conversion finished in 2004. The car will never be Finished. 6. Other car mods 4 caliper toyo brakes, cast rear drums Arrow kit with cali wing, Alluminum drive shaft Complete smog legal conversion(who cares?) Sorry fellas, havent been around much just starting to work on the car again for this years car shows...see ya there You guys make any licence plate frames for Hybridz yet? Website is offline..changes isp

The wire harness is not that difficult to do. its just about the right size. The only difficult part is labeling all the wires to where they are supposed to go. It depends on how much your time is worth....labeling and installing the wire harness took about 2 days...can be done in a weekend. I prefer being occupied, other wise i would be walking the mall with my wife

Yes you will love the LS-1 in your Z. I love seeing peoples faces when i drop the hammer and take off like a bat out of hell.... :flamedevil: Your in a good location where you can keep the smog off your car. Mine has all the smog equipment and is CA legal! There is lots of obsticals that you will come accross wile doing the swap. Keep searching the Forum and you will find the answer some times in 2 or 3 diffrent posts. If it isnt it drop a post and we will answer it again. Good Luck Mike (i love those motor mounts) corvette bracket location not camaro

I forgot to ask!!? Did you uses your style of motor mounts or are you going to do something like MAS28O

Its looking really good! Were going to have to do a LS-1 Z rally around the bay area. I have had some other projects in the works, maybe after that i'll get back into the Zcar again.

I didn't even think twice when i started my engine. Coolant was in it started it up and never turned back...some leaks here and there but no air pockets. My heater hose is hooked up so i would check the bypass you did. 220degrees in nothing for this engine especially when its idleing. I always get nevous when my tstat goes to red...but thats how the engine runs If it gets over 235 and nothing is happening then i would worry. Check out the GM service manual its all in there!!?! Theres easy ways to check your tstats before you install them...i due anyways so i dont have to do it twice. GM Manual-- The PCM will turn the cooling fans on low speed when any of the following conditions exist at idle: Certain PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) are set. The ECT above 108°C (226°F). The A/C high side pressure above 215 psi. Once the low speed fans are turned ON by Engine Coolant Temperature, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when that temperature has dropped about 4°C (7°F). If the low speed cooling fans are turned ON by high A/C head pressure, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when the pressure has dropped to 190 psi. The minimum ON time for the low speed cooling fans is 50 seconds. The cooling fans are turned OFF at certain vehicle speeds. Adequate airflow through the A/C condenser and radiator occurs with vehicle movement to properly cool the A/C refrigerant and engine coolant without the assistance of the cooling fans. High Speed Cooling Fans The High Speed Cooling Fans are controlled by the PCM based on the following inputs: The A/C system. The Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor. The Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS). The PCM will enable both fans on high speed when any of the following conditions exist: Certain PCM Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) set. The ECT above 112°C (234°F). The A/C high side pressure above 248 psi. Once the high speed cooling fans are turned ON by the Engine coolant temperature, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when that temperature has dropped about 4°C (7°F). If the high speed cooling fans are turned ON by high A/C head pressure, the PCM will turn the fans OFF when the pressure has dropped to 208 psi. The minimum ON time for the high speed cooling fans is 30 seconds. good luck

I love this idea....first on the block with a very powerful engine. Not only is it powerful but it is one sweet looking engine. I saw one on a Chrysler 300 and i almost couldn't keep my eyes off of it. There are some sweet performance parts for these engines. Keep us posted "Its time to think of something different when the idea becomes the institution"

I really like your conversion and i am interested in the information. I will be following this thread for a wile. I just have a suggestion if i may. Could you use rubber elbos and use the strait allumium where you can use it. It is hard to bend SS but you can make it look nice. Check out these guys, i am sure that it will withstand 30psi boost without a problem. This is pretty thick stuff http://www.airflo.com/rubberparts.html You can take care of that air box by installing a K&N so you can make up some room. I know you are looking to keep it cali legal...you can install a K&N without having any problems with the Referee. I did and my LS-1 passed without a problem. I think a taurus fan and griffin would work well unless your really squezzing it in there? Keep the pic's comming!!!! "Its time to think of something different when the idea becomes the institution"

Well it sure looks good!! I guess the idea has now become an institution. Looks like the guess work has been taken out of LS-1 projects. Good job guys

I've been looking at the pics on the third page and reading as the progress continues. Looks like a very good job and really like the motor mounts. I've been thinking about redesigning mine to move the motor left more so that my a/c doesnt hit. and give some more room for the exhaust. Keep posting pics Good job!! Brian

I used the 98 ls-1 exhaust manifolds but did some modifications to make them fit. On the drivers side i had to remove the O2 bung and relocate it on the inside of the exhaust manifold. I did this by useing a hole saw and cutting it out and using the piece from the opposite side and welded them all back in. Make sure (if you use the O2) to place it in a location where it will not hit the block The steering rod was really close to the manifold so i placed a rod and hit it with a hammer to dent in the area were the exhaust was hitting. I removed both stock exhaust connectors and replaced them with corvette flanges so it would be easier to install the mufflers and pipes. I like those ZO6 manifolds!!! I would replace mine if i knew that they worked.

Many said it wasnt possable and even the referee. But today i successfully completed a LS-1 280Z engine change Referee Inspection in California. It was farly quick but i'll tell you how it went. First I sat down with the Referee and he asked many questions about the equipment and i told him it was basicly a stock 98 Camaro. Then he asked about ABS and i said NO. Then we went out to the shop to test it on the dyno and wa-la passed with flying colors....CLEAN! We went back and completed the paperwork with no more mention of ABS or anything. Went to DMV Registered the beast and got my plates....WHOOT. Here is a bit of proof It is possable to complete a California LS-1 Engine Change and i have the proof I would like to thank Hybridz.org, Speartech.com, LS1tech.com, Electro-Tech.com (help with Fuel Guage Circuit), Jeromio, Maichor, Phantom, Brad454, Summit Racing, Autometer, AutoTap, my Father and everyone else for there support.

Ok I still don’t have the measurement too busy bla bla bla....I got a ref appointment on Thursday and trying to get everything together. I used the JTR transmission mount design. I don’t know how much it would cost but a metal shop can do it for you if you don’t want to order it. I had mine done for free cuz i used to work at a metal shop as a CAD designer. One of these days i can draw them up completely and finish a correct drawing. for a fee!! JK The engine is very strait with the rear differential and very minimal vibration. Only turning left...hehe dam AC Unit But otherwise just to put my 2 cents in. I spent allot of time and money to make this car worth doing. Not only did i change the motor but all the springs, rubbers and stripped the original paint. I bought the car about 7 years ago for $250 and i was going to do a JTR conversion. With not much money i did as much as i could. After being a college grad i was able to do other things than just a JTR conversion. LS-1 came up when i found this forum and i did it. No plans or conversion kits but a motor and a forum. (I love you guys) Question after question I had to ask Jeromio and others to see what i can do to fit this beast in this car. If it wasn’t for you guys I don’t know if I would have done to get the car complete. This was a hobby not just a mission to go fast but something i did with my own hands (A Z-car enthusiast) with a little help from a metal shop which i provided the designs and a GM service manual was able to finish the car. (Cross fingers for Thursday) I could of dumped 5k into my 944 turbo and made a 400 rwhp Porsche. But the challenge and of doing something like this was more inspiring It might take some time but i will get back to you with a reply Briguy280z

I have tring to update my drawing but havent had the time to measure the mounts. I really used 4x2 rectangle tubing with a Z-bar on each side. I welded the nuts on the inside of the tubing and welded the ends closed so that no water could get in. I liked th rectangled tubing because it has more of a tailerd look. You could use Channel and would loose about half the weight. Also when i used the rectangle tubing the sides are rounded which made the 2 inch channel lower than maichor and the oil pan hit. so i had to use some spacers above the rubber mounts to raise the engine about a quarter of an inch. I'll get under the car tomarrow and measure it out for you guys.. Thanks

Does anyone know where i can find the flex hose that he used for the intake tube. That would work great for going under my radiator hose, and connecting to a hard pipe out front. Cold Air = 15 hp Any ideas Briguy280z

Ha I got the best of the best I worked for a machine shop as a lazer programmer and made mine the same dimension but changed the style so they looked a lil cleaner. I think i still have the program to run them on a lazer. Made them up absolutly free. You could probably say i got paid to make them. Although i never did use them....after changing my mind and putting an LS-1 in. I am going to put them up for sale at the car show this April. Complete set spacers hood latch and trans bracket. Saving money you will do about anything!!! LOL Briguy280z

Jeromio used the same gas tank as i did but i didn't take out the rear tire. One thing that Jeromio's had that mine didnt was a fuel pressure regulator....if it doesn't have a regulator AC Delco makes a regulator/ filter that works fine. Mine hangs down about 4 inches lower than his but the rear differenial is still lower than my tank. I figued if the diff didnt hit the tank wont eather. lil more noticable from the rear. I used the straps from the camaro and brased & rivited the ends of the Zcar straps so i could used the same mounting method. Put allot of padding and points to tighten down to so that it didnt crush my evap canister. Its been awile but i built a circuit for the fuel gauge to convert the computer signal to the gauge. It works very well but i did some changes from the site....i just got to sit down and draw it out again. Check out a Cyrus post...he had a presmog z 71 i believe also and he had some problems with california smog laws, i dont remember what but you might want to check it out....I think if you swap it and keep it on the down-low you should be fine....FYI Briguy280z

Depends on what you accually want to do with the car. I dont know what state you are in and that can be a factor also. I live in Cali and smog laws made me do the whole smog OBDII swap. If you dont care about being legal or aren't required then you dont need very much at all. If you are in a smog reqirement area this is what i would take....your lucky i had to search for my stuff -Air Pump -Both CATS with 4 O2 sensors (be carfull O2's are easy to break dont drop them) -Fuel Tank (With all EVAP equipment...I believe it is all with the tank 2000+) -BCM unless you are going to build a VATS Module -PCM with wire harness and inline connectors for fuel tank and BCM Connectors -Control Box 1 & 2 (relays with fueses for fan control and other options--you may need only one) Other things you may need -GM Service Manual if you are going to use the original harness I used a tarus fan and a griffin radiator so i dont know if those will fit but thats all i can think of right now...i will leave other info if i forgot something.. Good luck Briguy280z

Ouch now that really hurts, my motor mounts look like junk, jeromio's and maichor's too. Copying a good plan is one thing but putting someone elses design down just cuz u don't like it is another. I think everyone did a great job with the motor mounts with how many swaps involving a LS-1 in a Z-car. Design your own if you think you can do better!!! WE ARE HERE TO HELP NOT PUT EVERYONE ELSES DOWN BECAUSE WE DID IT DIFFERENTLY. Briguy280Z