Mikey
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Posts posted by Mikey
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i remember drooling over it in SCC. that pancake manifold piping was something else lol
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Definitely need more info on what distributor and how it's connected.
77 l28 distributor, IGN control module. Trigger (white wire) hooked up to c and b is hooked up to the stock wiring.
ignition (red wire) hooked up to switched on power
orange (+) and black (-) hooked to coil accordingly.
blue (cyl select) is grounded.
If im missing anything let me know. THanks for your help
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My late model 260Z has a Crane FireBall XR700 ignition conversion kit installed. The system works fine but I can't get the tach to work. Even the techs at Crane were unable to help with this problem.
Any and all suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks to all that may respond.
Marty
aftermarket tach? or stock
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holy shat ricks beast is.... a beast. that thing exploded out of the hole.
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its got the IC module. Ill check my distributor according to the FSM. thanks for the help
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wow. too cool.
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a freind of mine has a 72 z and when he was looking for a hood in the junk yard, he came back with a hood off a z he found with matching access panels on a half off day for $10
when he showed them to me, they are the full steel louvered hood and matching louvered access panels.
they retail for $800 for the hood and $80 a peice for the access panels..
Now thats a deal..
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Im going to try and make this as least as confusing as i can.
ive got a l28 with electronic pick up.
crane cd ignition box.
crane ps92 coil.
The entire system worked before i started working on the car. its been sitting for a few months and ive only swaped out the alt for delco, intake and exhuast.
now there is no spark.
-the crane book says that when the ignition is on, the status light should be on.when it ran before it always was.
-when your cranking the light should flicker. it does.
-now that im having issues, the light will come on if i turn the ignition on, but if i crank the motor there is no spark and when i stop cranking, the light goes out and wont come back on unless i remove the ground and re attach it.
Make any sense? i know me and everyone ive asked is stumped.
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ok well the top linkage needed to be moved down one rung witch gave it more multiplied travel.
now ive got a dead ignition box. faux.
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yes, if i do the linkage flips over.
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Ok so i recently switched out my old egr l28 manifold and swaped it for a l26 manifold. after trying to hook up the linkage i find that i cant get a full range of throttle. if i adjust it to idle it wont open up at wide open throttle.
as pictured at rest
Then at WOT the primary's are only open about 3/4 of the way and the secondaries are only 1/4 open.
So where is my problem? do i need to adjust rod lengths? Im lost and not sure what to do.
Any help is appreciated. thanks
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the wheels look like they were Pshoped in
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i have. he is local here, its got a bre paint scheme.. lll see if i can contact him
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ive been working on my 73 240z with a terribly done l28 swap. the exhaust manifold was cracked and a square port on my n47 head. so i started looking for a round port header and i stumbled upon Blue72's old for sale post. He still had the old header and shipped it out with no delay.
Cool guy and he got me out of a bind and was very helpfull.
I extend my thanks
-Mikey
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ok in my coil install guide it doesnt mention needing the balast resitor, nor does it say i dont need it.
This is the coil i have..
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=browseParts&lvl=4&prt=166&action=partSpec&partNumber=730-0092
instructions
http://www.cranecams.com/pdf/90001091.pdf
yes no?
sorry, i just want the reassurance before i remove something needed
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or what should i look for to get the right gasket?
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you wouldnt happen to have a part # on that gasket would you? a n47 is from a 77ish 280z right?
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If i was in that price range, id buy a lotus elise or if you can afford, exige.
if you want fun and modifiable, s2000.
thats just me.
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Ok, well i really dont know here, im confused and cant find my answer by searching...
on my n47 head, should i be using a round port exhaust manifold? and should my gasket be round ports as well? cuz the gasket i got for it (for a 77z) has not square, but more like hexagon shaped holes.. i dont want any leaks so any info is appreciated.
-Mikey
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As for removing the ballast resistor? I would read the paperwork/instructions that came with your coil. It should tell you if that coil requires a ballast resistor or not, and if so, what OHM value they recommend. Follow the manufacture recommendations.
The block ground is typical, the valve cover ground is not and probably used to be the body ground. My opinion is the block ground and a body ground is minimum. Adding a dedicated ground strap from the alternator to the block or to the negative battery wire is not a bad idea as well, and even adding a couple more body grounds for redundancy, incase one starts to corrode etc.
Hope that helps.
Paul
alright ill do that as well. thanks again
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thanks, yeah so ive cut it short and added it to the air cleaner
A ZX as NHRA photo of the week
in Non Tech Board
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what the hell is going on with the guy standing behind the car, he is like double exposed but nothing else is. wtf