[Engine bay parts identification-Pic-]

on the red, can i remove it? does my coil need it?

 

on the blue, i just talked to a fellow z owner and he told me that it is the gas tank ventilation line. so i modified it to what i wanted.

 

 

thanks for the help. and how about the ground wire i mentioned?

[Engine bay parts identification-Pic-]

Ok so i will admit i dont know much for datsun stuff...

 

im in the middle of cleaning my engine bay and tucking wiring.

 

so, these are the things ive run into.

 

 

 

red:

 

Im assuming this is a regulator, it was with the stock coil. Im now running a crane hi6 ignition box and ps92 coil. Is it needed any longer?

 

Blue:

 

I have no clue what this is, i can see its got a line running down the chassis but i cant follow it. I dont think its supposed to be looped like it is.

Where do i hook it up or can i delete it?

 

green:

 

I thought this went to the EGR system but im not sure, to me seems like a crank case breather. but its blocked off. again, what is it and what needs to be done?

 

 

and also the negative terminal on the battery is grounded to the block at the starter and the top of the valve cover. do i have to have the other ground on the valve cover or could i make it a chassis ground?

 

 

Thanks for any info

[Turbo Z's - let's see/hear your mufflers/exhaust!]

Having exhaust that doesn't exit the bodywork

 

 

 

Why not? THats how i have my exhuast, accept it goes out towards the drivers rear tire instead of at the ground

 

[Need help on ignition wiring.]

never mind, got it, the b terminal had to go to the switched power and i stumbled on it by accident on a swap guide.

 

 

 

 

Runs like a well greased dream

[Need help on ignition wiring.]

On a 280zx l28, the ignion coil trigger wires go where?

 

Cuz im wiring in a crane cams high 6 ignition in and im not getting signal from the trigger wire..

 

Everything else is hooked up right, just the two wires that come off the ic pickup went to the negative side of the coil. There they go now would be very helpfull...

 

 

Thanks

[I guess its time to show off a bit]

yeah i know how to do flat black right.. i didnt do this job...

 

I did my old rolla in flat black. Looked hella good, but thats more for beaters to me. This is a classic, needs a good paint job

[I guess its time to show off a bit]

ya i think so too, thanks..

 

 

The best part, only very minimal surface rust. No cancer that i could find, Even in the door jambs and such...

[Some new 510 Wagon Project pics]

very nice, are those wheels southern ways?

[I guess its time to show off a bit]

ha your telling me, if i put it up right the wind knocks it back down at 30mph.

 

So im thinking about the bullet mirrors, those look pretty cool..

 

Once i get more aquainted at my new job im going to take this beast down to the steel and get her painted..

[I guess its time to show off a bit]

yeah i work at a body shop now so i plan to go glass black showing off all the chrome accents..

Simple and clean is the way i like it.

[I guess its time to show off a bit]

Here is a few shots from today..

 

For those who remember my introduction thread. Know where this car ecame from..

 

Looking like this

 

 

 

 

Now looks like this

 

 

 

 

 

 

tell me what you think

 

Yes i know the lip is warped, im working on getting it straight..

[goofy idea, fan blades on wheels?]

yes, those cobra rims are designed that way to help pull air past the brakes. its the way for designed them..

 

Just like the SHO wheels on mine

 

 

 

They have been tested by sho owners and they work... Not very well but its more than nothing

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

 

Finally got it out and

 

PedalToTheFloorOhSnapINeedToBleedTheBrakes

 

at every light.

 

I bled them by myself for the first time, but wasnt as successful as i thought.

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Oh, these are little bumps and bruises. Wait till you start buying impounded Z's from police auctions and see what happens when they reach the absolute bottom of the food chain.

 

All I will say is: "At least a weld bead was not involved."

 

Or speaker wire. Speaker wire is a universal headlight/fuelpump/battery ground cable replacement for impounded Datsuns...

 

Good to see your strut is handled.

 

 

Haha.. When i first got it, i started taking out the speakers, saw a speaker wire running through the middle of the cabin, went to rip it, but paused and decided to chase it. I followed it all the way to the spare tire well, and i look. its the dam power wire for the fuel pump. Sigh.

 

so ive been to that point, i re wired it with regular 16 gauge wire but its still in the cab. I need to run it through the body, just i want to tear the interior out for paint, and thats when ill do it.

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

O.k. I see your point, just don't want you to burn out, or track down the previous owners and ...............

 

Nah, if i were going to go that far id go after my dad. >.>

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Unless you are done with the entire car may I say, easy there! YOUR car is yours and I understand you now love it. With that said, this is only the start and you may be flamming out too soon.

Great car, it needs to feel your love and leave its past behind;)

 

 

 

Yeah, but flamming makes me feel better.

 

Im sure im going to run into 20 other things that are going to piss me off because of ignorance or something. Just it feels good to yell in a direction.

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

You really don't need to pull the arms at all if you're just changing the struts. Just disconnect the swaybars, brake lines, and driveshafts, lean the struts out from under the fenders and put your spring compressor on it right there. Too late for you, but hopefully somebody else will see this and save themselves some time.

 

 

thats what i did on the drivers side.. I know better..

 

Just that right rear was a terror.

 

So i took the ends of the a arms out and dropped the whole thing. Brought it to my familys shop and went and spun it off with the impact gun.

 

The damn nut they put on the top was standard.

 

Terrific.

 

So i put a new nut on it and put it back together.

 

 

 

 

Put her all back together and back down to earth..

 

YAY

 

 

 

 

 

 

Few hard days worth, well done. Till next time z car.

[How bad is this rust?]

yeah doesnt look that bad at all, mostly unbent, only a little surface rust, no major cancer...

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Yeah i read about them

 

F@k that. I just took out the other end of the a arm.

 

ITZ OUT! friggen finally.

 

Do a search for 'spindle pin' - things are about to get fun

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Ok need help again...

 

The bottom of the a-arm, the stud that goes through it... I know the center has that locking nut but i thought the bolt was supposed to come out..

 

 

 

Thats what im looking at... Should i just knock the thing out?

 

Thanks

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

uh, thats the problem... The shock is spinning with the nut....

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

It has nothing to do with who owned it before you. This is very common and as said earlier, the impact wrench will take care of it. If you could somehow grip the rod (do not scratch or gouge it), it won't take much grip to get the nut to release even without the impact wrench.

 

Why im mad at the people who owned it before me is because they have ruined many things on this car already, all of the wheel studs had 150 pitch nuts on them on the 125 studs, so those were screwed. They tightened the oil filter so tight that i had to rip the outside of the filter apart using the screwdriver method for an hour. They stripped the oil pan drain plug so much that it was nearly round, i had to take my grinder and cut 2 sides down so i could slip a cresent wrench on it...

 

And the strut mounts are brand new, or at least they look it, and the drivers side was unbelievably tight, with it bolted to the shock tower, i had my half inch ratchet on it with a 2 foot long pipe as a cheater bar and my friend helping pull, still took us multiple tries to get the thing to give..

 

 

 

Yeah so im not mad at them that its spinning, that they over tightened it and thats why i can get it lose without the impact gun, ive tried wrapping the shock with a old piece of inner tube and using curved lock jaw pliers to hold it but it just cant take the amount of torque that i need to remove it..

 

So ill be taking out the whole assembly and taking it to a shop today...

 

Ill take pics of what the shaft looks like

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Impact gun. If you don't have one go to your local equipment rental and rent one. They have electric ones too if you don't have an air compressor.

 

 

thats what i was thinking. Ill have to remove the whole strut assembly, cv shaft and all, witch i know is going to be a pain in the ass as well

[HELD ASAP. Strut problems]

Ok, so here is my problem... The rear strut bolt, the one that is a part of the shock that holds the uppper mount in place is either stripped of the flat side or the strut mount is.

 

When i try to losen the top nut the strut mount stays still and the shock is moving..

 

 

♥♥♥♥ i hate the ignorant people who owned this car..

 

 

I need some ideas on how to get this thing out... Ive got the car on jack stands and it needs to be moved by morning. Its in the way..

 

Thanks

[what rear bumper is this?]

my 73 has that one. so i know its alteast that