Mikey
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Posts posted by Mikey
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do you know any transmissions that bolt to it for a RWD setup?
Ive been curious too. its a great motor.
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another vote for the 1uz.
Ive been lucky enough to drive a 1uz powered corolla, and i must say that engine has such a smooth power band. it just kept coming. low end tourque and and high end power.
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Im going to test it today. ill double check all of my grounds. last night i tried the wiggle test and i got nothing. everything is solid.
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Ok so my z is showing signs of a low charge but im totally lost on what it is.
When im going down the road my lights are so dim i can barely see. when i come to a stop i can see my ignition box lose power and the light on it go dim and the motor will begin to stall. if i turn the lights off it will let it have more power and it will run. I can hear it bog down the fuel pump (loud race pump) when i kick on the lights and the e-fan.
Ive got the delco 110 swap. brand new so the alt is pretty sound.
the battery has a lot of power, i am able to have the pump, lights, fan and radio and it still starts like a champ every time.
i cant think of what could be drawing the power? nothing has changed and it just started doing this after a long trip (100 miles)
could it be the belt slipping?
Any help is appreciated
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Ok so since the l28 in my z is getting tired im looking into a new motor to build on the side. Ive got 2 maxima's behind my house and so i figured i could use them.
Now if i was reading right, a MN47 head paired with a l28 would make a compression ratio of 11-1 right?
If so how thick of a head gasket would be needed to run on the 91 piss water californa gas. Like down to 10-1
Any help is appreciated.
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yeah on my dads truck i made my own board of LED's for his tail lights. Looked awesome but took alot of time. This is a bit faster and easier to do. Kinda wanted to KISS for the average person so everyone can do it.
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Thanks and yes they do draw alot less power.
you also have to keep that in mind when using them as turn signals. if they are used in that circuit they dont draw as much power needed to throw the flasher in proper time so they flash too quickly.
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looks like you could fit more than one set in the housing if you made a backing board to mount them onto....
yeah you could but these are already near 2x brighter than stock and this only took me 30 mins including taking all the pics.
imo its not worth the time/effort unless you wanted really bright.
im going to do the rears next.
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wow thanks, thats a ton of info.
I knew about the first link, thats why i put in new accel pumps. I talked to a local racer that raced 210's in the 80's and he said sounded like the accel pumps were leaking.
I know ive got NO vac leaks cuz ive got new gaskets and 4 vac lines. dist, pcv, vac gauge and brake booster
Il try and tune them in today, ive got a sync tool.
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i would have but im out and i didnt want to go to the store. it was wet out.
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I was asked to do a writeup on these, so here it is.
Please excuse the cheapness of this setup. Im cheap but i make things work.
Reason why i did this. The old sockets/bulbs were rusted beyond saving. I would have to get a new housing, wire it ect and imo they arent bright enough.
Tools needed:
Screwdriver (phillips #2)
Wire strippers/crimp
2 soderless wire connectors
hammer
diagonal cutters
Start with removing the lens and housing.
You will want to peel back the rubber housing to expose the steel case
Cut the two wires as close to the housing as possible.
Take the housing and with your screwdriver just jently tap out the factory bulb housing
Till it looks like this. Should just pop right out.
I like the piranna brand LED's
Here is the one i use but the ones i got didnt have the steel backing.
Now your going to cut the lens bracket off the LED
Should look like this ( only right side is cut in photo- continue to do the same for the left side)
Pull the wires through the steel casing with the LED loose
( i like to seal it with gasket maker for extra security)
Now seal the front if you prefer
This is what you should have
now strip your wires and crimp them making sure that the rubber cover for the housing is on the steel casing. guide the wires though the rubber cover to keep water out.
FYI black wire is ground and green is switched power.
Now put your rubber cover back on the steel casing.
Put back on the car and enjoy.
And also i check with my local CHP officer and he says its perfectly street legal and he thinks that it looks better than the orangy amber color.
I hope i made some sense. This is my first writeup lol.
comments appreciated.
-Mikey
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when i got the car it already had the downdrafts.but it ran terrible. i started playing with the carbs and dropped in a new fuel filter, they were clogged with rust. it ran pretty good. i balanced the carbs and it ran pretty good but was way too rich. a guy i know that has a 240z with an identical setup to mine told me to replace the accel pumps. so i just got some new ones in and it fixed the fuel mixture issue. now this is my only issue. the last hoop i need to jump though lol.
thanks
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So here is the problem im having.
l28 with the dual DGV's. Off idle or a low rpm (2k>*) when i get on the throttle it hesitates. I hear the carbs drawing in air but it just stutters and in about a half second it picks up again. if i give it full throttle it bogs, i can hear it drone and make the deep growl but takes time to pick up.
Any ideas on what this could be? Any input is greatly appreciated.
-Mikey
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1 yes, you would need to run a oil pump for the turbo by itself, but i have seen some guys go without it.
2mount the turbo in the back section by where the muffler would go. will give you room and somewhat clean air. run a hefty filter and a heavy dirt catch cloth
3 blow off valves are good, keeps the wear down on the turbo but not neccesary.
on the na motor to turbo i cant help ya. i dont know enough about z's..
SDSturbo would be a great place to look for ideas on turbo mounting.
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Sweet yes it did xander. i followed a wiring diagram my friend had for a basic charging system and it worked and charged properly but wouldnt shut off. gave me all the info i need. thanks again
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so nobody?
The car is in the hands of a famous rally driver!
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anyone, i really need this to run tomorrow. its in a movie and im not sure what to do about it.
do i need to loop the regulator wires like shown in the how to guide?
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OK so i need my car this weekend and ive found that the voltage regulator wires are all cut due to a friend of mine cutting them out
So. i have the plug and ground for the alternator hooked up but not the voltage regulator, i have the declo 10si btw.
Can anyone tell me where i need to route new wires or what i need to hook up, more or less from scratch.
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thanks for all the help
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Im going to do a write up on it also
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it wasnt too hard, i can make some for you if you would like, just a little work. $20 bucks shipped and ill make a pair that you can just plug in.
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I know i dont post here much but im taking an old mistreated 73 240z and making it a fun weekend driver.
i just wanted to post the recent progress ive made on it.
Motor without carbs
LED running lights and turn signals.
Ill post a video later today of it running
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ok, i contacted crane. and they gave me a way to test it so you can all remember this one.
by taking the white wire (trigger) and proding it with a test light and putting it to a ground, the coil should fire. if it does not, the box is bad. if it does, the control module is bad.
so i tested and no spark.
i removed the box and tore it down. total meltdown. there were black soot spots everywhere and half the silicon melted. ive got a new box arriving today
Tt Sho 240z
in Other Engines
Posted
need to see some more
I remember your probe from shoforum.
I want to do a sho into a z sometime in the future.