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3ryce

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Everything posted by 3ryce

  1. Yes, it's Sat for 13 years give or take a year or 2, and when I bled the brakes and I replaced the wheel cylinders the pedal is soft and brakes don't engage till bout 3/4 the way down. I'm buying one from someone on here but like I said, I'm thinking ahead here.
  2. i got ya that makes sense, well it seems now that they no longer make s30 boosters. the rebuild kits have been halted and thus auto parts stores dont sell boosters anymore. i even tried to get on off ebay but my order was canceled. im buying one from someone on here but if and when that one is bad idk what im gonna do, idk what any of us are gonna do. the z32 booster and MC is to touchy. i dont really want to do a booster delete. threre was someone that has done a VH45 booster and MC but ive not herd back on how that felt, and im on all stock brakes for the moment. any ideas?
  3. i ordered one from there just now thanks, but my concern is for the future when no stores have them and there are no rebuild kits. were gonna have to come up with a solution for that.
  4. What options do i have for a brake booster sense they stopped making the rebuild kits and no where sells boosters for the s30 now.
  5. wait so petew did you have to redrill like ezzzzzz had to?
  6. Nvm I read on z driver I should have gotten the 79-81 and I confirmed that and saw it on this site too. I still need to find where to either get a stock 240z booster or a later model z booster. The msa web site was confusing and I could find a booster on there.
  7. Ok so I can confirm that the 83 280zx booster will not fit. I have a stock 240z 73. When I was asking out different diameters they said they only had a 10in. I did however go a head and get the 15/16 master. I got the one with the single reservoir. I feel that is wrong can someone confirm with me I got the right one. Part number is nmc1979. Thanks guys!
  8. Ah I see. My main point is the booster is what I'm replacing and if I'm going to replace it I want to upgrade it and might as well do the MC at the same time.
  9. When I went to orilyes they said the part numbers were the same for the booster and MC for na and turbo. Made me go ...
  10. do you know anything or anyone that used a 83 280zx booster and MC on stock drums and such? im just trying to research and see what the right combo is. i have a 6/73 240z. I seem to see the way to go is the 83 280zx booster and MC.
  11. miles ok will do, i am doing research right now. i just kept finding odd answers or better yet not full answers leaving me with half my question unanswered. also your first name is my last name ha ha.
  12. Ok, sorry to bring up an old thread but as ive been reading there is good information but i cant seem to find a solid this is what i did. it all seems scattered and this and that and what not so ya. but your saying you are going to the 280zx booster. what year? and the mc from what year? and i am gonna guess non turbo on both parts right? or would that matter. would the year on the booster be a 79-83? and the MC be 84- ... idk. haha. or both 79-83 booster and MC. i keep seeing people talk about different years of booster and a different year MC and its really throwing me off for some reason. but it also would have been cool to use the z32 booster and MC to bad its to touchy.
  13. so for the z32 upgrade all you have to do is redrill the firewall? what about the pedal linkage upgrade and all that? i take it that it bolts up to the stock pedal assembally? I have a 6/73 240z and im afraid i need to replace the booster, however i do not want to pay big bucks and i realize the 73 parts are getting harder and harder to find so i dont mind upgrading to some newer and easier stuff to find. I will be on stock brake set up for a while. the disc up front and drums in the rear.
  14. have you checked out zccjdm.com? I just got some threaded sleeves from them and will be using the 240sx coils to replace the current stuff. came with the camber plates to weld in too!
  15. i followed daves instructions http://jarvas240z.blogspot.com/2013/07/alternator-upgrade.html heres a link to em. and ya the ground on the left of the second picture made the fan come on and the one on the right... it may have made the heat part work but that would be because the heater valve thing. well anyways i appriciate the look at it.
  16. so a few months back i did the alt upgrade. everything was perfect. now after taking a quick look at the plug at random i notice that it looks like burnt wire. well i took off the electrical tape and heres what i found. not sure what i did wrong but i followed the instructions to the t on this. any insight would be helpful heres a picture also in the second picture can someone tell me what the ground is for on the right side next to the lights? again thanks in advance guys!
  17. So the thing connected to the temp control is seized up and I can not break it free and its stuck closed so I have no heat. Also the one on the other side is seized too. Sorry I do not know the names for these parts. But I need them please. Send me a pic so I know if its the right part. The parts are located on the inside firewall.
  18. I accidentally put the diode in backwards. It was quite funny when the car wouldnt turn off. I even tried to kill it with the clutch. That didnt work. haha. I just followed the picture wire diagram he had up there. Its awesome and works like a charm everytime!
  19. 3ryce

    e 12-80

    Already got one, thanks. If anyone who reads this has a working 280z tach. PM me. thanks again.
  20. Apollyon, is that using the 8920 tach adapter only or the 8920 with the 6AL?
  21. 3ryce

    e 12-80

    As the title says I need an E 12-80 or the whole distributor. Trying to do the igntion upgrade.
  22. I've seen other setups with the resistor and msd coils. After some rereading this somemore. Ive gathered that I need the 6A/AL for one way to make the tach work. Im looking for other solutions. Thats what im trying to ask for. I do not have the OG coil either.
  23. Thats a good question. I guess I could just unhook it. Where would I connect the wires to? Or would I just cap them off and leave them?
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