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About richie2619

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  • Birthday 05/10/1964

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    Improving my ride!

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  1. Although GM small blocks have similar displacement to the modern Hemi, their valve configuration is in-line with the length of the block. The Hemi, however, has the valve placement, perpendicular to the block. This results in considerably greater width. You should take some time and measure everything very carefully. There's a strong possibility that it won't fit between the shock towers. Older mustangs, 65-70, that have 4-valve V-8 engines, usually have the shock towers removed and employ mustang II IFS. It absolutely can be done but it may take a fair amount of fab work.
  2. Premium fuel is a waste of money on a low compression engine. Higher octane only raises the flash point to help prevent detonation in high compression applications 10.5:1 or higher. I think the 78 was 8.5:1. The lower octane also helps prevent hard starts because it ignites more easily. Premium fuel being (better), is a misnomer. It's only better for High compression engines.
  3. Before I swapped to the V8, My '78 was getting a consistent 23MPG on a 225,000 mile engine. Ironically, it got about the same with the 8, if I could keep the back half of the carb closed. Someone mentioned the possibility of the injectors having inconsistent flow due to carbon deposits. You may need to check the spring tension of the air flow meter. I've heard of people trying to richen up the fuel by altering the spring.
  4. I'm saving this one. Getting ready to order my coilovers! Thank you very much!
  5. I used the stock Z28 clutch and it's great. You're not having to move near the weight. And truth be told, I'd rather have the clutch "give" a little than to shock the rest of the drive train!
  6. I'm sure this subject has been posted on here but I'm having trouble finding people who are using the stock insulators with coilovers. My car will be driven primarily on the street and I'm using T3 LCA's front and back. Changing camber after the thrust alignment won't be an issue. I plan on using Ground Control components and just can't justify the camber plates for the "wow" factor. I'd like links and pics of the conversion so I can get it right the first time. Anyone willing to point me in the right direction? Thanks!
  7. Hang a plumb bob off each side of the tank. My '78 measured 38" And I didn't have to pull the tank!
  8. Yeah, I crawled up under my car last night and was thinking about making some tabs. I guess it's pretty rare for the originals to be intact. I've been very lucky to have a Z that's never been wrecked and had virtually no rot!
  9. I put the ST kit on my 280. 1 1/8" up front and 3/4" out back. The car stays incredibly flat in hard cornering!
  10. I put the ST kit on my 280. 1 1/8" up front and 3/4" out back. The car stays incredibly flat in hard cornering!
  11. Pulling your control arms out isn't that big of a project. Think of the peace of mind of knowing it was done right. T3 control arms have an easily accessible mounting point, just like JHM stated.
  12. Which ever year that has the thick, steel plate that encircles the caliper. I have those too.
  13. I bought these custom aluminum caliper brackets from Jim Cook Racing, in '03, just before I parked my car. So I never got around to installing them. They're designed to convert the Z drums to '79-'83 ZX calipers. I'm wondering if anyone else has a set of these and if they're compatible with the '85-'88 Maxima calipers. I have a set of ZX calipers but the pads seem awfully puny. I realize the front brakes carry 75 to 85% of the load. I'm just trying to get some feedback from people who've been where I am now I've Googled Jim Cook but it appears that They're not around any more.
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