AKWIKZ

Funny that you mention the ATI damper, I just bought one. They make a direct replacement one and a race version. After talking with them a while, I opted for the race one. My motor will be putting down a minimum of 500hp and be spinning at close to 9 grand. If you go for the race one, you will need to decide how many components you will be running. The super damper does not have and serpantine pulleys on it stock, you will need to instruct them on your needs. I only needed the one pulley, for the water pump and alternator. They put on a Chevy six groove pulley. The RB uses a four or five groove I can't recall at the moment. This is not really a big deal. With my SR20 powered Roadster, I had a similiar situation. I found that just making sure the belt tension was right kept it from ever jumping off. Now, that said, the damper is absolutely awsome. The quality is top notch and the instructions are clear. Of course quality is not cheap. My damper cost a bit over $450 delivered, so keep this in mind. Brian

I don't think you need the cross member. I would believe they are the same as a U.S. Z31. As for the mounts, I have a brand new set from Nissan Japan with brand new rubber isolators (the piece that is bolted between the mount and the cross member). I never ended up using them. I paid $350 for them and I'd just like to get my money back. Let me know if you are interested. Brian

Unfortunately I do not have any part numbers. At least none that I can find. I don't have any pics at the moment either. The clutch is at a local clutch rebuilder that has been trying to get me the parts for the last month or so. They are an Exedy dealer, but up to this point have not been able to do much. If the clutch you are getting reads "Nismo" on it, chances are it is the same as mine. Are you thinking about letting it go? Brian

Hello all, I'm hoping someone might be able to help me here. I have an old style Nismo twin disk clutch that I am having trouble getting rebuild parts for. I'm now thinking about just getting another clutch. Does anyone out there have a high h.p. clutch they want to sell for an RB26 with RB25 tranny? Or can someone point me in the direction of a distributor that might have this? The clutch needs to be able to support 500hp at the crank. I know where to get a brand new Exedy twin disk, but they are around $2k, and I'm hoping to find something a bit more reasonable. Thanks Brian

They are the black ones. Give me your e-mail and I'll send a pic. Brian

Here are some more pics engine: http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/engine interior: http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/interior My two Skylines together: http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/KGC10%20&%20R32 Brian

I have a brand new set for a Z. They are in my remaining parts after I sold the Z. They are in Nissan boxes still. I paid $200 for them, and I'd just like to get my money back. I also have a brand new 432Z grille, also new in the box from Nissan. If you're interested in that, I'm asking $150. Let me know. Brian

Thank you all for the compliments. I will get more pics up shortly. As for the engine, it is nothing special right now. Just a stock L20 with triple Solex carbs, header, and real twice pipes all the way to the tail. I do have quite a few parts that will go into it in the near future. I no longer have a Z, I sold it along with all of my other toys (except for my R32 Skyline) in order to buy this Skyline. I did keep all the parts that were destined for my Z though. This includes a mildly built RB26. It has a Tomei head gasket, Nismo turbos, Haltech E6K, Nismo twin disk clutch, Tomei cam gears, Nismo timing belt, Greddy pulleys, and 720cc injectors. I have also kept my 5 lug conversion with Wilwood brakes. I plan to enjoy it as is for a little while, then I'll start the build up. And yes, I am the same Brian that stops by Speed Force. I'll try to bring the car by once I've gotten it registered. Brian

Actually, no this is not the car that was on e-bay. That one belongs to a friend of mine in L.A. We were both buying our cars at about the same time, but he was able to get an earlier ship to Long Beach. They look similiar, most Skylines of this model do. Nissan only offered this car in white or silver and most of the ones for sale tend to be either one of these colors. Both cars are also GT-R spec too, again as most KGC10 Skylines have been modified over the past 30 odd years. At this point, he says he will be at the Mossy show with his Skyline too. There is one more KGC10 Skyline up in L.A. It is a blue '72. Then, there is a white '71 in Florida. To the best of my knowledge, there are only these four in North America. Now, to answer the first question. I have a friend in Japan that found this car for me. The funny thing is that the actual purchase of the car and the shipping were the easy parts. I simply wired him the money and he bought the car and arranged the shipping. These cars are becoming quite rare now, so it did take him a while to find me a good one under $15K. All told, we spent about three months looking at various cars until we found this one. On this end, there is only a little paperwork you need to do. Anytime you have a shipment with a declared value over $2k, you have to use a Customs broker. You have them fill out the paperwork and tell them the car is over 25 years old. This makes the car exampt from all EPA and DOT requirements. I think I paid about $400 for all of my import duties and the brokers fees. They will then let you know once the car is ready to be picked up from the port. The only other real work you need to do is that you will have to trailer the car over to the DMV as they will need to verify the VIN on the car and fill out the appropriate form. I did this on my way home from the port. Then you just register the car like any other. Let me know if you need more specific info, I'll give you my cell #. Brian

She just got in from Japan. I picked it up a couple days ago. I will be bringing it to the Mossy Nissan show next week. Here are the pics: http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/loaded%20on%20trailer http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/side%20shot http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/side%20shot%202 http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/side%20shot%203 http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/me%20with%20car

Here is the way I see it. I have had experience with almost all of the turbo Nissan engines you have mentioned. I had an S13 SR20det that I swapped into my 67.5 Fairlady. I also currently have an R32 Skyline GTS-t (RB20det powered from the factory) and I am currently swapping an RB26 into my '71 Skyline. Anyone that says the SR is that much cheaper or easier than the RB must have a secret because either motor will require custom mounts and such. Also, any RB20 you get will most likely be from the R32 Skyline, meaning it is at the most 14 years old. Most people buying SR20's get the S13 redtop anyways due to cost, and these are just as old as the RB's. So the age versus reliability issue is not relavent. While they are both the same displacement, on the RB you still have two extra cylinders and the related exhaust pulses. This will allow you to run a larger turbo with less lag, in comparison. As for cost of entry, I'm not sure where you are, but I have a very good supplier that has great prices here in So. Cal, he's in Riverside to be exact. If you are on the cheap, the RB20 usually runs about $1100 or so. Now, if you have a bit more to spend, the RB25 is really the way to go. With an E-manage or similiar fuel computer, larger injectors and a larger turbo you will easily net over 400hp. I picked up an R33 RB25det for a 240SX guy a little while back for $1800 complete. You tack on about $1200 for all the parts I just listed and intercooler and you have an absolute monster for around $3000 or so depending on how much you are able to do yourself. Don't know if this helps, but it might give you some options. Brian

I have a Z31 rear sump pan and pick up tube that I no longer need. They are both new, in the packaging from Nissan Japan. I purchased it for my RB26 swap into my 240Z, but I have sold my Z. I have recently purchased a '72 KGC10 Skyline that will now get the RB26. These cars are front sump from the factory, so these parts are now unneccessary. I'm looking for $400 U.S. Let me know if you are interested. Brian

Maybe one of you guys can help me out. I recently purchased another RB26 and I am looking for a wiring harness for it. If someone has one they are willing to let go, please let me know. Thanks Brian

As impressive as that graph is, I have to question it. At 411 rwhp, that would translate to about 500 at the crank. Now, when you take that number and put in into an injector sizing table you come out with this: (approx) BSFC of a turbo engine should be .6 or .7, normal injector cycle is 80%. When you put these in, you come out with a requirement of 650cc injectors. Even if you push the envelope to 100% cycle and drop the BSFC down to .5 you come up with 440cc. I'm pretty sure that the VG30dett has smaller injectors than the RB26 does, somewhere around 370cc or so. The GT-R and Pulsar GTi-R both have 444cc injectors from the factory that are the largest Nissan equipped any production car with. Unless he is running all the way on the ragged edge, not to mention way lean, I kind of doubt that the motor is all stock. Brian

Both are notoriously good engines, but here are a few things to think about. The fastest drag Z's in Japan are RB powered. There is no question that the VG is stout, but look around at the high h.p. Z32's here in the U.S. and very few have hit 1000 hp. I've seen quite a few in the 600-700 range, but I can't for the life of me remember a streetable 1000 hp VG powered car. I've heard that the exhaust manifolds have been a limiting factor in this, and I'm sure people will get around it. On the other hand, there are many Skylines running around with over 1000 hp. HKS and Greddy each have at least a couple. And at least half of those are streetable. Just a few months ago Turbo Magazine had a "bolt on build up" as they put it. They took a U.S. legal R33 and with somple bolt ons made 700hp at the wheels. This was on a stock block. I've heard a few people talk about how much stronger the Supra engine is. While it's a great motor, my money would be on the RB in a fair fight. How many other production engines can you think of that have been handicapped in organized racing in order to make it "fair" for the competition. Group A racing, befor it banned the Skyline all together, limited boost and put restrictors on the RB26 in hopes of leveling the playing field. Unsuccessfully I might add. Sorry for the long post. Thanks Brian

I've been a bit sidetracked lately. I'm getting the GTi-R and Skyline ready for the Z car convention track day in two weeks. I have had my friend look at the third gear issue and it seems the parts will be in the $200 range, but will not be especially difficult to fix. The bell housing is still sitting at my other friends shop waiting to be tacked together. I need to take one of my RB25 trannies over there for angle reference and it has not been on my priority list. I have yet to come up with anything more on the shifter problem. Here is what I have so far. If the extension part is shortened up to the U-joint, the shifter should be able to connect to the shaft pretty much as stock. If this can be done, six inches will be removed from the mounting location. That leaves about three more that are needed. I think simply bending the stock shifter will solve that last part. Three inches would be optimal, but is not exactly required. In the 350Z, the shifter needs to be pushed down in order to engage reverse. This seems to be only an issue with the linkage itself again and has nothing to do with the lever inside the box. This is pretty much where I left off. I intend to get back on this after the convention. I'll try to post pics and video of the track day and car show afterwards as well. Brian

That is the mustasche bar you are referring to, and is not what I am looking for. This is the suspension brace that sits behind, but does not contact, the diff. Someone made a billet aluminum one that clears the finned diff cover on the turbo 300ZX diff. Brian

Hoping someone can point me in the right direction. I tried the search, but it always comes back with nothing. I'm looking for the custom rear bar for S30's that allows the use of the 300ZX finned diff cover. I actually will need two of these. Thanks Brian

I see I wasn't the only one with this idea. I got mine from the same guy, I would assume, a little while back. I am almost done having the shift location altered and the bell housing will be modified next week. You are on the right track with using the RB26 housing. I had a spare RB25 auto tranny and had three inches or so of it "sliced" off. The alignment will be the only potential issue when it is welded back up. The splines on the input shafts are the same and your RB25 clutch will work fine. I have a friend rebuilding it right now and once I'm sure he's fixed the problem with third, I'll try to let you know the best fix. I'm hoping to have my car on the road next month. Righ now I'm grafting a new piggy back system onto my RB26 which offers all the advantages of a stand alone at about half the cost. It even gets rid of the mass sensors. We'll see if it lives up to the hype. Good luck on yours. Brian

Actually, they are the same. The pedal box is what is different. I pulled the entire car apart, compared items to a LHD car and took what I needed. As for your "positioning" of the pedals, the gas pedal is the only one that is different as it runs back across the pedal box. If you have not disassembled one yourself, you really would not know.

I respond to all e-mails I get. I have already responded to at least two inquires. I can't tell if either were you, if not, then I never got your e-mail. If you are interested still, I am looking to get rid of it. So far, people have said they want it, but no one has actually paid for it yet. Don't jump to conclusions because of one possibly missed e-mail. Let me know. Brian

I have a complete RHD conversion from a '72 Fairlady Z. I have the dash, steering rack, pedal box, gas pedal (clutch and brake pedals are the same as LHD), windshield wiper assembly, windshield cowling, and a cutout of the stock firewall. I found a RHD Z in the junk yard about 6-7 years ago and pulled it all out. The dash has a couple of cracks, but is in perfectlt usable condition. There are no gauges, but your stock ones will go right in. If you're interested, I'll take $400 for everything. I will probably never get around to using it. My e-mail is b.dooley1@cox.net , and I'm in San Diego. Brian

Actually, the driveshaft from an RB25 (the R33 GTS-T) that was mentioned WILL NOT WORK with the RB20. Remember the RB20 is the motor we are talking about here, not an RB25 or 26. The RB20 tranny is substantially smaller than the RB25 and uses the same input yoke as an L or SR series motor. The RB25 shares it's yoke with a Z32 or a D21 pickup truck. Brian

You're kidding me, right? Again, please need to look at the earlier posts. As I stated earlier, some driveshaft mods may be needed, but everything else is there. Engine, 200ZR mounts, computer, harness, rear sump oil pan, correct pick up tube, and stock intercooler. I have not seen anyone else offering anything nearly as complete as this, and you are insinuating that without the driveshaft it is not a "drop in" kit. I guess I could make it a perfect "kit" and just ship it already installed in a car.

See my earlier posting for the breakdown. $3200 gets you pretty much everything you need with the RB20. I have everything in stock here in San Diego. Brian