AKWIKZ

I saw those on e-bay. Unfortunately I already have the main bearings on the way and really don't want to spend money on another set just to get the rod bearings. All of the reference items I've seen only show one set of bearings (aside from undersize) for all RB26's from '89 and up. This is all regarding aftermarket bearings. Now, you may have misunderstood my post. I am not confused regarding what I am looking for. I'm simply trying to find some place that has them in stock for sale. Along with all the options that RB Motoring mentioned they also said they had none in stock and that it could take up to 3 months to get them.

Anyone here have a line on rod bearings for an R32 RB26. I have called all over and gotten the run-around. RB Motoring is telling me there are five different ones and Superior Nissan appears to be too busy to look into it for me. I need a standard size set of bearings. Nothing special I would think. I have one in hand and here are all the numbers from it: F-780 STD 12111 05U00 Thanks Brian

I may be wrong here, but I don't know of any aluminium 302 Chevy V8 engines. The C5 and C6 Corvette engines are aluminium block I believe, but they are 350. And from what I have seen, they are not exactly cheap. Now, you mentioned an RB25de. This is the non-turbo version. If you are looking to get 250hp from it, you may have some work ahead of you. Now, if you meant the turbo RB25det, you will have no problem as they come rated at 250 from the factory for the R33 type. If you get an R34, it is rated at 276. As for placement, I have to disagree with the last post a bit. The V8 may very well sit further back, but not lower. All of the V8 swaps I have seen sit fairly high, all things considered. The RB series of engines have a very short block. My RB26 sits easily four inches lower than the original L series did. But here is the thing, it will all come down to personal preference. This kind of comparison is all too common and has been hashed out to death. There are pros and cons to both. There are plenty of people who will tell you how one is better because of whatever. Either one will work. You just need to decide if you like "blondes" or "brunettes".

I was planning to wait a bit longer, but this seems to be as good a time as any. I currently have six RB30 bottom ends sitting in Australia waiting to come up. I have been working on this for a while and it is just now coming together. I am finishing up the logistics and hope to have them here in the next 6 weeks or so. I have even purchased 6 of the correct timing belt for the twin cam head swap. The belts will be included with each of the bottom ends. I will let you guys know how things progress. Brian

Here is the thing, there is always someone to blame for all of your ills. This guy is no different than white supremecists who claim to also have a "solution" for the world. Unfortunately there are plenty of people that are "educated" and well spoken that chose to dwell on how every personal shortcoming they have is due to "THEM". Whoever "they" might happen to be. History is filled with people just like this guy. The irony of this is that he is preaching the exact same message as Hitler did. He is simply blaming all white people instead of just Jews. I do find it funny that we as an advanced society look back on pre-WW2 Germany and say "How could you not see what was happening?" Guys like this are very alluring to people. They take all of the concerns and gripes people have and give them a target for their aggressions. The scary part is not really what is being said, it's that people are buying it without even a second thought. This was evidenced when there was a round of applause when this guy finished his rant. Brian

I have one of those VG30 front drive slaves. I have not fully mocked it up yet. It does look promising, but from first glance having them side by side, it is not a perfect match. I will most likely bite the bullett and order a Nismo one still. They are around $180 I think.

That was just about the funniest thing I've ever seen. He caps it off by saying "do you need help little man?" I fell off the chair laughing. Good find Keith.

Sorry, I may not have been as clear as needed. I was simply referring to the comparison between an S30 Z car and a Hakosuka ('69-'72) Skyline. Those used different diameter rotors but use the same hub bearings, therefor making that part interchangeable. The GT-R that is being discussed is a much later R32 ('89-'93) model. That one is not interchangeable in any easy way. Due to it's four wheel drive configuration, the front hub/rotor does not connect in a simliar fashion. The rotor can be used, but will need a special hat assembly to bolt onto an S30 compatible hub. Brian

Actually, the Hakosuka does not use the same front brakes as the S30 Z. I found this the hard way when I tried to use a Z car kit on my Hakosuka. The Z uses a larger diameter disk than the Skyline. By about 3/4 inch or so. While the rotor and hat are interchangeable, the caliper will require a different bracket. Brian

I know this is a bit of an old thread, but can you still get these pistons at that price? I am interested in a set of 88mm ones. Thanks Brian

I'm not sure, but I assume you are asking about the Hakosuka. It uses a swing arm rear suspension similiar to the 510. They come with R180's just like S30's. R200's can be installed with not too much trouble. As for the body, it is unibody not full frame. Like most Nissans, some of the parts are interchangeable, but I have found a few items that are compltetly unique to the Hakosuka. The LS1 would be interesting to say the least. I actually just took my car to it's first show a few weeks back. People were struck at seeing a Hakosuka to begine with. Once they had worked their way to the engine most just simply gawked. The RB26 fits very nicely. I'll admit I thoroughly enjoyed it. Look up my previous posts and you'll see most of my build up under "update on my Skyline". I think you'll find most of your answers in the pics. Brian

Any car 25 years or older is exempt from all Federal standards. State standards may still need to be met though. Here in Ca. any car newer than '74 needs to be smogged still. Customs is not an issue. As long as all the paperwork is filed and they get their fees, they won't even look at you. When I brought in my Hakosuka last year, I was in and out of the port with my car on the trailer in less than an hour. All the Customs guys wanted was a signature and a little chit chat about my car as they had never seen one before. As for having the car put into a container of parts, I would highly reccommend against this. When you go to register the car, you will need to supply the DMV with the Japanese title, bill of sale, and all the customs paperwork showing the vin and year of the car. If you bring it in as parts, I can almost guarantee you will not be able to register it easily. I have brought in three cars now, and have never had a problem. I'm working on the fourth right now. I'm trying to bring in a '74 KGC110 Ken Mary Skyline. Hopefully the deal will come through soon. As for the flares, Stony may be right, but those look just like the Akira Z flares that were popular back in the '80's. I actually had a full brand new set up to a couple of years ago. They were absolutely huge. Brian

I am running an R200 with a 3.9 ratio from an '88 200SX. The GT-R had a 4.11, and the GTs-T five speed had a 4.38 I believe. The way I saw it though, all of us are running cars that are easily five hundred pounds lighter than either of those. You really are not sacrificing any performance by going with a lower ratio. In fact, the reason I went with it is to give a decent freeway cruising engine speed. To be honest, I think a 3.7 or 3.5 would be the best overall. I had a 3.5 in my last turbo 240Z and it was beautiful. On that note, I still have two 280ZX turbo 3.5 R200 diffs if anyone is interested. I'd let them go real cheap. A friend also has an Nismo R180 L.S.D. 4.11 sitting over here that is for sale for $700. Brian

Only the R34 came from the factory with a six speed. If an R33 had one in it, it had been swapped. The box is a direct swap for any of the R32 or R33's. Brian

I still have a Z33 six speed if someone is interested in it. I have enough on my plate as it is so I'm going to pass on trying to make it fit. If anyone wants it, I'll take $300 for it. Brian

The '87-'95 Hardbody and Pathfinder V6 manual 2wd use the same yoke as well. Just to open up some options for you. Brian

Actually I just got one. The size difference is substantial. They are a two piece design, with one side having nice air horn type runners. It also has a four inch inlet as opposed to the stock three inch. The main reason I got it was to cure the number 6 cylinder problem. They have a tendency to run lean on high boost because of the dog leg runner feeding number 6. The Greddy one is a full plenum all the way back feeding all the runners in the same fashion. It was not cheap, and it was a pain to get. Mine took almost four months from when I paid for it. I would suggest finding a place that can verify they have one in stock. Brian

I have some new pics. I've finished the engine mounts and just last night finished the tranny mount. As you will see in the pics, the engine is sitting in the car completely unassisted. It's actually in it's final location and bolted in. The suspension is all done as well and the car is sitting on all four wheels. I still need to bolt on the brake rotors and calipers, but I wanted to test how it sat. I think I will leave the front as it is, but the rear needs to come down an inch or so. I sat the intake plenum on, without the throttles but roughly in the right place, to show distance. The turbo collector also has plenty of room. Aside from a chin spoiler I have not put on yet, this is pretty much how it will look. Brian http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/engine%20bay3.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/engine%20bay%204.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/intake.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/sitting.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/right%20side.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/front.JPG

Okay, here is what you will find. The SR16 or SR20VE will not work. I looked into these when I was putting the SR into my Roadster a few years back. The front drive SR engines WILL NOT bolt to a rear drive tranny. While they are both technically called SR, the rear drive is substantially different from the front drive. You could attempt a head swap, but here are a few things to keep in mind. Even if you got around the jacked up distributor location, you would have the pair of solenoids hanging off the back side of the head. These are what actuate the cam change. You would end up having to cut a hole in the firewall or something. I actually bought an SR16VE when I bought the SR20det. I sat them side by side and checked all the possible combinations I could come up with. In the end, I sold the SR16 to a Sentra guy. On to the RB. I doubt any else knows, but Nissan actually made an N/A RB26 powered four door R32 Skyline. I recently learned about this when I bought a Japanese DVD on the history of the Skyline. There, in a special museum of Skylines was this pristine Gunmetal 4 door. I'm not sure of the models exact designation, it may have been some special edition that Nissan often does. This one had the same valve covers and plenum but had a beautiful equal length tuned header. The exhaust had the most amazing note to it. I think that had the engine had the throttle body injection as suggested earlier it would have been perfect. I have seen several RB engines run on these, usually on an RB25 swapped into an S30 or early Skyline. I think you would be lucky to get a good 200hp out of this set up at best. I would suggest you go with the RB25 instead of the RB26, simply because you can get the N/A RB25 which will have more power than an RB26 stripped of it's turbos. Not to mention these motors can be had for under $1000 easily. As for the FJ20; it is a spectacular engine. The torque is unbelievable for an N/A four banger. This is the motor I had in my Roadster before I swapped in the SR20. I had twin Solex carbs and an open exhaust that sounded great. Here is the problem; simply put parts are nearly impossible to get now. Australia still has some to offer, but they are not cheap. I had three motors, two simply as spare parts. If you can't get one that already has a carb manifold, pass on it. The engine was only F.I. from the factory and the carb manifolds were aftermarket only. These are the hardest parts to find. Manifolds alone can run $800 these days. I eventually decided to sell my FJ's while they were still in good condition and swap in the SR20. Don't get me wrong, the I loved the FJ, it just came down to overhaul issues. Brian

Alright guys, I know it took a bit longer than I said, but here are some more pictures. This is of the rear end. I finally finished putting it all together. I had a lot more success on this end. Here is the breakdown. The rear arm and crossmember bushings are Energy Suspension 510 units. The mustache bar uses S30 bushings. The R200 is a 12mm version from an '88 200SX turbo with a 3.9 ratio. The open spool was replaced with a Kaaz unit for as S13. A Nissan Motorsports finned cover replaced the stock one. I found that there are actually a couple differences between this one and the stock 300ZX turbo one also. Here is the really cool part. The stock four lug axles were replaced with '86 300ZX five lug units with companion flanges. These were a direct bolt in replacement. I simply bought new bearings for the Z31 and pressed it all in. As some of you may know, the 300ZX stub axles are tapered with a larger outer diameter than the inner. Finally I used stock '81 280ZX Turbo C.V. joints. The rear springs are the ones that came with the car, some random aftermarket ones. Luckily, they are the same as a 510. The shocks are 8 way adjustable KYB units that were also on the car already. In the pictures you may notice the slight interference between the shock and the C.V. joint. This only happens when the axle is in full droop. Once the car is resting normally, there is over an inch of clearance. I replaced all the lug studs with Nismo 60mm units. You will also notice the JSK rear disk kit for an S30. I took a few pics with the wheel on and almost in the correct position. It's not quite a perfect representation of what it will look like on the ground, but you can at least get the idea. Tell me what you guys think. Brian http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/axle.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/diff.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/right%20rear.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/underside.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/underside%202.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/wheel.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/wheel%202.JPG http://members.cox.net/b.dooley1/KGC10%20Skyline/rear%20shot.JPG

I was reading a thread on this a while back. According to Sean Morris at RB Motoring, the Splitfire coils do not make a big difference. Apparently the best thing to do is use a booster such as an HKS Twin Power. As for the plug covers, Stony is correct in that the R34 was the only one that was different from the factory, at least on regular production cars. Nismo offered an S1 and an R1 version that had special cover emblems and different colored valve covers. The S1 had a flat black (as opposed to the stock gloss black) and the R1 had a darker red than the R34 with a matching red intake plenum. The only blue valve covers came from Tomei with one of their Renisis engines. These also had custom emblems. I have seen some of these Tomei emblems for sale in Japan for just under $100. There are also some from Tommy Kaira, a Japanese tuner. I ordered an HKS one a while back. Apparently they have been discontinued, but some are still floating around. I can try to post a picture if anyone is interested. Brian

Let's see of this works http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3099&cat=500&page=1 http://album.hybridz.org/showphoto.php?photo=3100&size=medium&cat=500&page=1

Actually, you don't need to buy their off the shelf one if you don't want to. I had them make a single pulley one as I only need one groove for the water pump and alternator. They did not have a production one like this at the time (almost a year ago) but they made one using a Chevy outer housing. It uses the same style of belt with only a minor difference in the number of grooves. The Nissan one is four groove and the Chevy is six. I ran a similiar set up when I installed the SR20det into my old Roadster. The stock SR alternator was too big so I used one from a Diahatsu of all things. It was from the same maker but about 1/3 smaller. Unfortunately the pulleys were not interchangeable so I had to use the six groove one with the four groove belt. I had no problems at all. Even when I spun it to 9K, ....twice. (when I broke the rear end). Anyhow, the space and weight savings with the single pulley style will be very nice, needless to say the overall cleanliness it gives. I have a couple of pics, but I don't know how to post them here. Someone want to give me some tips on this? Just for reference, my pulley is rated to 800hp with a suggested rebuild every five years. I paid $460 shipped to my door. Brian

They are very similiar, but the easiest way to tell the diff is by the #6 runner. The stock one kind of juts out and back where on the Nismo one it is clearly coming out of the main body like the others. Not to mention that the Nismo one is more narrow with an actual indentation for the Nismo emblem. Brian

Here is a link to what the real one looks like. Scroll down near the bottom and click on the thumbnail of the plenum to get a better look. http://www.greenline.jp/catalogue/bcpartlist.php?make=Nissan&carcode=R32C&intake=FI#engine Brian