AKWIKZ

The bolt pattern is nearly the same. One bolt hole is the slightest bit off. Aside from that you have a problem with the tilt. The L series tilts opposite of the RB. My Skyline actually had an L series tranny bolted to the RB20 that was in it. It was a major hack job in my opinion. It worked on it, but it leaned hard and required a very odd wedge type spacer to make it work with the RB tilt. In my opinion it is not an option for a clean install. Brian

Well guys, I got the car running and "finished" enough to make it to the JCCS last Saturday. I actually just got back to Phoenix last night as we stayed in San Diego for the rest of the weekend. I'm sure there are or will be plenty of pics of the engine bay shortly. I will be sure to get some of my own up as well. My buddy Tim and I were up 'till 1 A.M. Friday wrapping it up for the trip. I would like to publicly thank Tim, Spence, and Manny for their help in the garage. I also need to thank Raff and Joel for the last minute help thay gave. Raff was great with the part numbers and Joel shipped me a water pump pulley to borrow as mine had a slight tweak in it. These may sound minor but as you all know any one of these things is the difference between a running car and a paperweight. I still have plenty of work to do, but I was able to drive the car into and out of the show. Granted I drove it all of about 100 feet to and from the parking lot where the Armada was waiting with the trailer. But hey, it was running. I met a few HybridZ members there too. We do seem to have some of the more mature members here. I am constantly impressed by the caliber of most of our members here. That is probably why most of my on-line time is spent on this site. Anyhow, enough rambling. Thanks guys. Brian

Because it lives. After around 1 month of work, the GT-R is running. Today, with the help of a few good friends, we managed to get the RB26 to fire. We did run into one snag though. I had spent a fair amount of time figuring out the wiring of the stock computer. Well, apparently there is one thing not mentioned in any of the FAQ's I found. On the R33 RB26 there is an 8 pin plug near the mass sensors, similiar to the Series 1 RB25. But on the RB26 six of those wires run to the injectors directly. We found that this is where the injectors get their power from. Once we ran 12 volts to all six of these wires the motor started on the first try. We only ran it for a minute or so but it sounded awesome. It revved easy and had no sputtering at all. I have a fair amount of work ahead still. There is no radiator yet and I'm still waiting on a few small parts to show up. But it looks as though it will make it to the show this weekend after all. I will post pics later on, but wanted to share. I also need to thank Manny and Spencer as they were quite instrumental in getting over the last few humps. Brian

Actually it's the part number above that one. The 16603F. It's just a rubber grommet type spacer. I'll try to get a specific pic. Brian

Thanks, yes that adress will be fine. Brian

You are the man! The spacer is on the diagram you showed earlier, but Courtesy says it's not in the database. Unfortunately, I need these ASAP. The car show is in 2 weeks. I can probably fab up the spacer if need be, but if you can spare that pulley, at least for a little while, I would appreciate it. I can ship it back afterwards if you'd like. I planned to buy Greddy pulleys eventually anyhow, but I just need something now. Brian

I am missing a couple more things. My order from Courtesy came in but was missing a few things. Does anyone have a spare injector spacer? These are the little rubber spacers that go between the main body of the injector and the fuel rail on the RB26. I also could use a water pump pulley. Mine has a small tweak to it and rubs the timing cover. Again, any help is appreciated. Brian

Most cable or satellite companies have there own in house techs that are paid hourly. Allmost all of them also use contractors as well. That is where the real money is. I have been a contractor with Cox both in San Diego and here in Phoenix for about 8 years now. As a contractor you are paid off of production. Depending on what you do at each job you get paid for each part of it. The faster/more efficient you are, the more jobs you can do therefore making more money. It definately takes time to become good. And you will definately want to quit within the first two months. Everyone does. If you can stick it out 6 months, you will find things start happening naturally and the job smooths out. Then you start making good money. On average I gross about $1500 per week at an easy pace. My best single week ever was $3600. So as you can see the potential is there. It can be tough work, especially dependant upon the area you work in. But this kind of work is fairly steady and is only going to be in more demand in the future. Brian

Thanks for the plug. And kudos to Kenny on the tranny. You guys should really see the packing job he did on it. I have seen few, if any, people take that kind of care in shipping an item. If you still have my number Manny, give me a call and we'll see if we can work something out. I can tell you I am asking far less than these usually go for. Brian

Manny, I have a spare RB25det tranny sitting in the garage. It's not especially cheap, but I'm pretty reasonable. I could be open to partial trades as well. Let me know if you are interested. Brian

Allright. I was able to get everything except for the eye bolt. Apparently the Z32 uses a banjo fitting instead of the adapter the GT-R uses. So, does anyone here have a spare set of turbos that might have one of these they can part with? It is a pretty simple looking thing. More or less a hard line adapter into the turbo. My next step might need to be Earls fittings or something. Anyone, anyone? Brian

I apologize for not responding earlier. I will be calling Courtesy shortly and will let you know. Thanks again. Brian

The two relays are the same. They are both next to the computer. They appear to be blue in color. Brian

R33 Gt-r

Going to the well again here. Do you have the part numbers for the ECCS relay? And for the fuel injector O-rings both top and bottom. The motor is in the car and the harness is mostly done. One step at a time. Brian

I was simply referring to the production years of the specific motor you mentioned, the rear drive CA18det. I am aware of the other lesser versions. And the likely hood of you using parts from a US market Pulsar Ca16 seems remote. As for the FJ, it was actually used in the 1983 DR30 Skyline, not the R31. Brian

I would suggest the RB20 for several reasons including what you mentioned. While getting parts for an RB20 might not be the easiest, the CA was only used for 2 years in the Silvia and parts are even more difficult to source. You make a good point in that both will cost nearly the same to do. Why not then choose the one that will offer more flexibility down the road? Brian

I don't see the part. It is a dowel that slips over 08223-86510. Brian

Outstanding. Would you also happen to know the part numbers for the small spacer/dowels that go on the studs securing the throttles to the plenum? Brian

I did not realize you were trying to reach me, my apologies. Do you have my new e-mail? brian.dooley1@yahoo.com . I know I can be bad about responding quickly at times, but I never intend to not reply. My original cell number I gave you is still active as well. Brian

Guys, A good friend of mine has finally decided to get a Z. We have talked about it for a while and now is the time. I am looking for a 240Z. Preferably a '70-'72 but '73's will do if it's something special. He is in San Diego and I am in Phoenix, so anything around either of those places will work. We are looking for a fairly stock-ish car. Mild upgrades are fine but we don't need a built car. The car must be in good running shape and aside from a set of wheels or paint job it must be complete. Sorry, no projects this time. We have about $3k to spend. Please let me know what you have. Thanks Brian

I figured it would cross with the Z32 TT. Thanks for the specifics though, it will make it easier. Brian

15188p is the part and 15188a is the washer Brian