AKWIKZ

The wheels are Watanabe Type R and well worth the current bid alone. I can't tell if they are 14 or 15 inch though. The mirrors are not the right ones for the car. Those actually look to be Skyline mirrors, possibly from the late 70's early '80 GC210 model. If you happen to buy the car, I would be willing to buy the mirrors off you to have as a spare set for my '74 Skyline. They are pretty similiar. I think if you look at some cars with the proper ones on them, you will quickly see the difference. Let me know if you end up going this route. Brian

The engine in that truck is a VG33. Just a larger version of the SOHC VG30 from the Hardbody and Z31. It is as bullet proof a motor as you can get. VG's will take a beating and then ask for more. I had over 300k miles on my '91 Hardbody when I finally sold it. I also had an earlier version, a 2000, of the truck you are looking at. Mine was a 4x4 crew cab with a little under 150k miles on it. As long as you make sure to change the timing belt, water pump, and thermostat at the required interval, 95k miles on the VG33 I believe, you really won't have too many problems. There are 2 possible weak points though. The early ones, 2000-2002, would occasionally crack an exhaust manifold, usually the left one. The high pressure A/C line would go bad and need a repair. I did not have any manifold problems, but my friend did. It was fixed under warranty with no issue. We both had the A/C line go bad. $400 was the bill for the new parts, labor, and a recharge at the dealership. From what I hear, these were problems mainly on the 2000 model with later ones being less likely to experience it. Like anything else, ask for service records. Brian

Where are you located? Is the motor still complete with the original turbos and such? Does it include a tranny? Brian

Guys, It looks as though I am selling my '71 Skyline. While I'm waiting for the deposit, I have a good feeling all will come together. What I am pondering at this point is what to do afterwards. I have narrowed it down to two things right now. One is to pick up a completely pristine KGC10 to replace this one. My thoughts on this are that I can then take the engine from the new one, most likely a nice 2.8 or 3.0 with trips, and drop it into the Kenmeri and put the 3.1 N/A RB into the new KGC10. This would be fairly affordable at around $18k-$20k all told. The second idea is to buy an R32 GT-R for a race car. I live 10 minutes away from a large motorsports complex, so keep this in mind. The R32 would be one of the many non-federalized cars around these days. It would not be street driven at all. Track only. Going this route, a good R32 base would run about $10k. Leaving me a fair amount of money to improve upon the car. This would leave me to put the 3.1 RB into the Kenmeri. So, please let me know your opinions. Thanks Brian

Yes, the RB30 is 1 inch taller. I just thought I would throw it out there. The set up you have right now on this bottom end with the forged pistons would be insane. If you are already near 600, I would be willing to bet you would be around 750 at the same boost. Brian

Don't know if this might interest you, but I still have one RB30 block and a brand new set of Wiseco forged pistons. These pistons are a 9:1 C/R and are 1mm oversized to yield almost 3.1 liters. If you are interested, I'm looking for $1900. Brian

Unfortunately, the set up is just different enough to be a pain in the butt. I have been dealing with the various pan scenarios for a while now. The GC10 and GC110 Skylines use recirculating ball steering, just like the 510. The problem arises with how far inboard the steering links move during their stroke. The crossmember is actually not too much of an issue in comparison. Any oil pan with a decent sized sump in the rear area will interfere with the steering. You really will get an appreciation for the Nissan engineers when you see it. They put the sump in the only place they had any real space available, in front of the crossmember. Brian

Let's see if I can answer all the questions. The crank of the L20 uses a slightly shorter stroke from that of the L28. From what I have read, you can use the L20 crank and rods in an L28 block to yield a 2.6 liter that will rev like no other. The long rods and short stroke would be somewhat comparable to the RB26. With forced inducion and quality parts you coul spin that thing over 8k. As for the weight question, according to my books, the KGC110 weighs in at 1145 kilos (2524 pounds). Not quite as light as my KGC10 or an early S30, but by no means portly. When you say it "feels very heavy", are you referring to actually pushing the car around? Or is this the way it feels when you drive it? You need to keep in mind that the L20 is no powerhouse. Especially one as old and tired as yours is bound to be. Also, if I remember correctly, you are running S.U. carbs, a stock exhaust, and a points distributor. Even the L20 that came in my '71 felt pathetic. This one has trips, a Trust header and exhaust, and an E.I. distributor. It sounded absolutely beautiful, but it couls barely move fast enough to get out of it's own way. You will find that even a healthy L28 will make a huge difference. Brian

The Maxima pan does not work. On all the GC10 and GC110 (the car he has) the oil pan is completely unique. The sump is extremely wide from left to right but front to back is only about 8 inches long. Eric is right about the pick up point. You might need to drill it out and plug the old one. As for the height, the L28 will fit easily into the bay. Also, welcome to Skyline ownership. You will find a few things are pretty unique. I also assume you are the new owner of Brian Galloways white KGC110. He told me it went to Colorado. Brian

Terry, Thanks for looking into it. Unfortunately, I don't know where that price list page came from. I found it in a post on another site a while back. I wonder if they are aftermarket like you suggest. If it's not too much trouble I would like to know if the other shop you mentioned might have them, or at least be able to point us in the right direction. In the meantime, I'll see if I can find any more info about that sheet. Brian

Yes, these are for the '74 Skyline. But it actually is not a hatchback. They look like it, but they just have a standard trunk. I'm still waiting for the car though. The other GT-R replica parts took a lot longer than expected to be made and thus I have been simply standing bye. Everything except for the grille has arrived at my friends house in Sydney and should be bolted on shortly. We have the shipping of the car lined up and it should only take 2-3 weeks to make the trip up. The parts I'm asking Terry to find are the final trim pieces. I was able to have the flares, grille, and front and rear spoilers duplicated. But the badges and such are fairly unique to the Kenmeri. Because of this I can only get them from Japan, and even that requires someone to take a bit of time to track them down. I have also stockpiled a few things here in the U.S. I have a 4.7 or 4.8 (can't remember exactly) R200 Nismo LSD and a set of 16" Watanabe wheels. I also managed to get a set of clutch and brake pedals for the manual swap as my car is an auto. This whole thing has taken away time and money from the Hakosuka (which has caused me to miss the JCCS this year), but the deal was too good to pass on. At next years show I plan to bring both cars out. Brian

Terry, Here are a few of the parts I am looking for. '73 GT-R taillight panel 79831-R4800 "Skyline" script badge 78842-R4600 "GT" side badge 78843-R4600 I have a few others and you can actually see what some of these look like here: Thanks again. Brian

First off, La Jolla has no junk yards. The only junk yards are in Chula Vista, about 30-45 minutes south of La Jolla, near the border. They are on Energy Way. You can look them up for exact directions. There is an Ecology and a Pick Your Part. Unfortunately, parts are pretty slim even in So. Cal. junk yards now. And the pricing is outrageous. We call it the "whiteboy" rate. About 2 years back, I spent an hour pulling out stub axles just to have them charge me $120 for them. Needless to say I left them on the ground and`walked out. It may not be P/C to say it, but anyone that does not speak Spanish seems to be charged twice as much. I stopped going there after that. The parts were too hard to find and when you did find them they were far too expensive. It's better to look on E-bay in my opinion. Brian

Terry, It looks like someone beat me to it. But yes, that is the list. Remember though, even if it is on the list you will need an R.I. to bring it in if you have any hope of making it 100% legal. The idea of gutting it for the parts and converting a U.S. one is probably a better one. On a completely unrelated note, are either of you guys able to pick up some parts for my KGC110? I actually have a parts list and have been told these are still available new from Nissan in Japan. Just thought I would ask. Brian

There is a Volvo caliper that is almost a direct bolt on. I can't remember the model it came from exactly, so you might need to take one of the stock calipers in to the parts store and just compare. This is becoming a pretty common swap now as rebuilding the Roadster calipers is not a very good idea any more. They are far too expensive to replace and not really up to the task of handling the kind of power you have. Now, if you want to get crazy, here is what I did to my '67.5 with an SR20det. I had the front rotors from a 944 turbo machined to bolt to the stock Roadster hub assembly. Then I made brackets to mount the Brembo 4 pistons from that same Porsche. In the rear, I redrilled a pair of R32 GT-R rotors to 4 bolt then again I made brackets to mount the GT-R calipers. Even at 80mph, the car would stop hard enough to nearly put you through the windshield. I had never been able to get a set of stock brakes to feel any where near effective. You will also want to look into swapping the master cylinder. Original Roadster ones are nearly impossible to find and then they are over $300 usually. This will require some mods. Roadsters use SAE threads on all the brake lines. Any other Nissan master will be metric. I suggest you get a master for a 280ZX then simply change the nuts on the lines. 30 minutes with a flare tool and you will be in business. Brian

If this Skyline, or nearly any car for that matter, is not an '81 model or older it will not be able to be legally imported into the U.S. It's that simple. There are no loopholes, no back doors, no "I know a guy". A car can be registered in some states without proper documentation, but they are not in any way 100% legal. The term being used a lot now is "State Legal" . This is a joke. Just because you may be able to get it titled, no insurance would ever back it up if something were to happen. Say you managed to get an insurance policy, then you hit someone. That insurance company will find out that car was illegally imported and will use it to deny the claim. Not only will you be responsible for the damages then, you will most likely be reported to the authorities. And they are coming down hard on these things now. Short of somone crash testing several cars, financing a proper study on how needed modifications will be made, and then devising an OBD II compliant U.S. Emissions computer system, no cars will be imported legally again. As for the GTi-R, there is no way at all that car was legal. They were never placed on the eligibility list, therefore even if someone had come up with an effective conversion package the government would not accept it. Four years ago I actually imported both an R32 Skyline and a GTi-R. But, they were both declared as race cars with all the required paperwork filed with both the NTSB and the DOT. I heard from many people all the ways I could register both of them. As tempting as it was, the possible consequences of breaking so many laws kept me from even looking into it. This was well before the current furvor over Skylines and such. I had counted on the rather lax attitudes that Customs and the Government had at the time and found that short of checking for contraban and such, they never even looked to see if the cars fit the discription of race cars. Again, this was four years ago. I would not even try to do it again in todays environment. The only cars I'll bring in these days are over 25 years old. Noquestions and no problems. Anyone thinking they can get a newer car in is simply playing Russian Roulette. Brian

Guys, I am going to be in Long Beach on Sunday, 8-13, to pick up my RB30 blocks. ZHADMAN has been storing them at his house for me. I have 1 left so if any one in So. Cal is seriously interested in getting one this is your chance before it goes to to Phoenix, Az. I am in San Diego right now and will be in Long Beach around 8 am and will head back down to San Diego by noon. Thanks Brian

It has been a little while, but I do still have the car. It currently has no engine in it as the RB26 I had built was sold after that auction. The rest of the car is as it was. As most people here know I have brought up some RB30 blocks and plan to use one for the new engine. Everything is on hold at the moment though as I have recently moved to Phoenix and just this last weekend finally moved into my new house. If you would like shoot me a PM and I'll answer any questions you might have about Skylines. Brian

Look closely at the air temp sensor on the front of the plenum. R33's had the red sensors (which this one has). The R32 has yellow ones. It is hard to tell with the harness bunched up on top, but I thought I saw the plug in one of the pics too. Brian

Either one is going to be more motor than you need or will really use on a street car in all honesty. 400-500 hp is fairly common on the RB26 with basic bolt ons. The RB30 will yield that much on minimal boost as well. Now, I'm not sure where you will get an N1 bottom end from as they are not too common any longer and chances are you will only be able to get a used one that will need a rebuild. You figure of $6k cnd. would pretty much cover an entire RB30 long block build up. Here is a basic breakdown of what I am doing. These prices are in U.S. dollars. But with the current conversion rate it's almost the same. RB30 block $1200 Forged rods $850 Forged pistons $800 ACL bearings $250 ARP head studs $300 N1 oil pump $250 N1 water pump $250 Tomei head set $350 RB26 cylinder head $1000 All of the other parts such as adjustable cam gears, high lift cams, etc are not figured in as you would need to get them either way you go. If you decide to go with a large single turbo, the extra displacement of the RB30 will help spool it more quickly. As a comparison, a complete running stock RB26 can be had for around $4-$5k. Brian

According to Wiseco, no mods were needed to either an RB25 or RB26 head. While I have not compared stock RB30 pistons to these yet, I have little reason to question what Wiseco says. I will definately ask the machine shop to look at this when I take everything in though. With this being a custom "HYBRID" (hahaha) build, I'm always open to suggestions. Brian

With this set up, I was expecting good off-boost throttle response with the 9:1 C/R and shooting for about 600hp or so at 16 pounds of boost on a pair of HKS 2530 turbos. Brian

You are absolutely right. I have now realized that I have a problem. It appears to be a terminal case "well, while I'm at it......" that always snowballs into something like this. I have made peace with it and am doing my best to live with the disease. I try to take it one day at a time while constantly holding out hope that a cure will be found..........one day. Brian

Plenty of talk but no one actually put any money down. So I still have 2 to sell. They will be going on e-bay next month. I need to focus on moving into the new house for the next couple of weeks. We have our final walk through tomorrow and then we close on Wednesday of next week. The blocks are sitting at a friends house in L.A. I'll bring them back after everything settles down. Brian

Right around $1800 for everything you see. Add $1200 for the block and about $500 in machine work and you have a built 3.1 liter full forged RB bottom end for $3500. Not exactly cheap, but still pretty affordable for the power you get. Brian