gotxqss

Quik question . Anyone know what color the 17" rota rb-r comes in? I've sent few emails but never got an answer. Solid colors or always the polished lip?

Perfect! Kept lookin at that liquids package i never used and now it will come in handy! Damn seeing the pro comp i think set there looks really good. Torn a bit on those the phantoms or maybe even the ultra lites. Got the white hurst shiftkmob so maybe phantoms

did you just order the gauges and use the sender's and such that come with it or did you have to use any of the specialty adapters that ive vaguely seen mentioned around?

Was getting ready to order some gauges for the swap. I am going to be redoing the dash with all 5 autometers. Been reading about which gauges to get and see people mentioning adapters and such. figured someone here has done it and know whats up. my setup will be 5" electric speedo 5" electric tach 2 5/8 electric water temp adapter# 2277 this leaves the stock on the driver front and then uses the autometer at the pass rear head hole location. Can you just tie into the stock sensor that goes to the ecm or tap into the ecm directly and bypass all this? autometer says for 2277 above you need a different sender 2259. any reality to this? really debating on the other 2 holes oil pressure - thought these were really expensive to keep things out of the cabin. guess not 65 bucks. Guess i'll have to go with this then! oil temp - with water temp is it really needed? oil press seems more valuable volts - sorta useless clock - completely useless fuel level - would be a nice gauge, which ohm range for 240z sender? what have some of you done? need anything special? any pics would be great as well

On those removal of the rear 02 sensors. I am cleaning up the harness alot of the unused plugs/wires that are left after. Can I just remove the wires associated with the rear 02's up to the ecu? thanks

I went with the c5 fpr setup. so clean and 1 easy hose to run to the front and a clamp on the single inlet rail. so easy!!! Looks clean. Reason behind this for me was to spend little money up front to get the car driving asap and to keep issues from arrising and causing time to fly by. This happened to a buddy we both know (duderino on sva) where he gets caught up in so many details and trying to do this whole big deal always that its been 3 years and still doesnt have a car running. Meanwhile if ya swap the ♥♥♥♥ asap get it simple and done your actually driving around faster and then down the road if ya want some bling factor then its a simple day project. Or if you plan to do some upgrades like a cam or something and need more fuel or maybe a fast intake ya swap it all at the same time. Now that I finally dove in and saw what i actually did and what it takes to put an ellis juan into ANYTHING I feel confortable and its almost funny how easy it really is. Go cheap get it running asap and save that 250 bucks for something down the road that does something other then look good!

Well finally after a lot of slacking on my swap the car has finally fired and actually got to drive it around for 10 minutes yesterday to check for leaks, make sure everything is working fine ect. YESSSSSSSS!!!! Can't wait to get the lil things buttoned up for reliable driving. Anyways, I tried looking around for exhaust stuff here but didnt find too much info. Figured maybe we can get a thread with everything we need to know. Couple questions came to mind before going and getting the exhaust done. 1. How far after the headers did you mount the 02 sensors? 2. Did you even use the rear 02's? do you need them? Can i just unplug or do i need the simulators instead? 3. what size diameter are you using? 4. What material? Don't know if I wanna go all the way with stainless yet 5. Running an X pipe or Y? If so what sizing and configuration? 6. Duals or single outlet? 7. Mufflers - what fits in the stock location? what are you running? happy with the tone/noise levels? If you have any pics that would be sweeeeettt and a vid of the sounds would be even better. Personally I was thinking 2.5" into a Y then id like 3.5" from there back but might be restricted to 3" for clearance. Would like a straight through muffler in the stock location to keep things sorta stealthy but I have a feeling it might be a little loud to sound stock of course. Thanks Guys

mine looks identical to that. has the 1 slot there that doesnt have a spline on the bottom in that pic. couldnt see that opposite notch on the trans splines. my yoke just taps the indent from above causing it not to slide in as noted in the other posts.. I just got motivated to finally start wrenching. doing the fuel deal now as well

since you have a 240 i was curious if you had the same issue as mine. with the trans fully bolted up i cant get the driveshaft at the engle needed to slip it into the trans as the yoke there hits the underside of the change cubby hole thing that protrudes into the tunnel.??

I just got done dealing with mine today. Mines jci kit with ls1. I went with the BMR bracket as I wont be running anything but the alternator. Short belt since going to the mezeire electric waterpump. http://www.bmrfabrication.com/misc.HTM its on that page. 130 bucks.. i noticed today playing with it that the back of my camaro alternator there is a black plastic cover deal which i had to chop a bit on the back off.. it now fits but that was after I took out the what im guessing is the ground stub off. Just wouldnt clear the engine mount area. was going to take the stub out and use a bolt in its place to shorten it down.. Ill try and get some pics but seems as it will fit but need to keep an eye on it with engine vibration it doesnt contact.

Figured I would ask this here instead of starting another about same driveshaft.. Have any of you had any issues with putting the driveshaft in while trans mount was tightened down? looks like on mine 71 240z the little change cubby on the top of the trans tunnel indents down far enough to hit the u joint preventing it to be angled enough to slide in.. I dont think the 260 or 280 have this? so looks like ill need to loosen the trans mount and lower it down to get it in there.. p.s. what size bolts are the driveshaft to diff bolts? ?

wish i would of bought this over the cheap looking jtr setup.grrrrrrrrrrr

Just what i am looking for. So the gsl392 is the pump ill order up~! Is there anything special to do with the tank like sump? I am going to not use any gauges right now as a speedo isnt needed and a tach isnt that important for now but eventually I think I will be going with a full set of autometer's to replace the stockers. I will order the driveshaft from jci as there is a few missing bolts/spacers in the kit i got. The trans i bought came with a spec 3 clutch setup and a stock ls7 setup as well both have low miles so should be good there! Thanks for the help. I can't wait to get this going. I originally bought the ls1 no trans for a porsche 914 but after realizing a open diff mid engine car with a glass tranny the driving enjoyment for myself wasnt like my style(i like the sideways thing)

I bet 90% of the people would swap to a great long tube setup. I know I would. Hopefully with this chassid you wouldnt have to relift the motor out just to do a longtube swap.. Keep that in mind about being able to get them in and on without the motor coming out unless that is just a MUST DO for the setup and i'd prolly still switch.

really bad pic but here's the car its going into

Hey guys!! Well i have recently accumulated the ls1/t56 main parts and now it is time to find all the little bits to make sure I have MOST of the parts in hand before starting everything to try and cut down the time to completion as much as possible. I wanna see about a few things and just kinda mention what I am getting incase anyone see's an obvious miss.. Dont wanna be a pita but I know how quikly a few setbacks at the end can take a 2 3 month build to 6+++ and who wants that! the parts listed are ones that I know Ill need. these are the essentials to get things working simply. *TILTON 7/8 MC *32" braided line from tilton to slave with the russell adapter! anyone have the part number for the braided line? *lokar 48" throttle cable *corvette c5 fuel press reg/filter combo/fuel lines ????walbro 255 fuel pump - IS THERE A DROPIN INTO THE 240Z TANK? i would like something with a direct replacement??? Or 300zx turbo pump? best option here? Don't wanna do a fuell cell or a tank replacement if i dont HAVE to. part number be great?? Those are the main "little" things that are needed to get running besides the obvious. above will get the clutch working right, the fuel figured and to the motor and a throttle cable. I have the main essentials like the JCI kit, sanderson headers, ect. I will get the jtr radiator and elec fan setup. Of course there is some of the other stuff needed to be done but I have read and looked at most swap posts over a few times to make sure it is as easy as it seems. Plus I figured to have a 1 post thing with questions if i had vs a thread for each thing if needed. Can't wait to get this project underway!

Got the ls1 in the garage and waiting for the t56 to show up. Got a good deal from a member here on the jci mounting kit and the jtr ceramic coated sanderson headers for the swap to come. Made the mistake of tearing things down before all the parts accumulated on the miata back when. It cost me a year of potential fun driving around in the albeit slow car and do not wanna make that mistake again. Get most parts and try for a legitimate on jackstands timeframe. Will get some pics this next week of the motor and such. Can't wait to see how this car does with some good power. Hooked already!

So been driving the car up till this point. Yes it isnt fast by any of my means but it runs so good and even with the stock blown suspension and im guessing 36 year old bushings open diff and basically poor everything else i have a blast in this thing. I can appreciate all the little things. I have got tons of thumbsup, compliments and questions from all the people who seem to like the little smurf. I have gotten the "i used to have one of those in college" thing a few times. So being that i am planning all the upgrades at a later date I chose to "cut" a few corners now and get the look a little closer to what I want. Yes I know this is a horrible idea and whatever else. I want the look now while i upgrade things down the road. Why drive a 4x4 height car when i can freely chop the springs to the height i want. This car is a 2 time a week driver right now and the speed achieved is not unsafe or any of the manuevers tried could do much harm. Oh yeh and a buddy had a set of new zg flares in his garage that he wasnt going to use for awhile so figured we could test fit now to see how I like it. I havent cut the fenders yet underneath but that will come soon enough. Pics are garbage from my phone for now but gives an idea. I am diggin the look. I removed the tits off the bumpers and painted them black to tie things together. The angles might show the flare fitment is off but in person with not weird lighting and a bad camera they are just right! And that is all I got for now. Will get some better pics this weekend. The nose could come down a bit more to get it just right but I will wait till the good suspension goes in.

Well after couple days the rebuild kit showed up and a new buddy of mine who is an SU guy came over and got this thing dead silent after a valve lash check and the tuneup parts. idle's at 600rpm totally smooth and so quiet i find myself always revving the motor to see if it still is on.. I was AMAZED how this turned out. The motor is an l28 with an early 5speed. Now it runs perfectly and even my carb guy was in shock how quiet and smooth everything was. Wow best 300 i have spent!

So Did some washing. Taking the dash out and hitting the Interior with bedliner and some paint everywhere else. I think the future will be some new carpet kit to keep the clean stripped look. The door panels will get recovered or flatpaneled dont know yet. Main thing was to get things cleaned up and looking good for cheap. This was while I waited for my carb rebuild kit stuff from ztherapy to arrive! Always something to do right? Paint and mount that free rollbar!! Which brand is this btw? I likey:D

Now onto the good stuff. The 72 240z I found listed on a local forum. Lucky for me it was a slow forum and noone jumped on the car. 2000 obo quikly turned into me driving it home for 1400. Needed carbs rebuilt but was a farely rust free NV chassis which would be a good canidate. Had the cheap knockoff pleather seats, the sportmax wheels and a sweet rollbar. Figured that alone was plenty even if the motor/trans didn't stay in it for much time. How about some as I got it home pics.

This was my first project that is basically complete. I just wanted all out track slut. Gutted,caged,boost,brakes and suspension. Little extreme but that was the goal and I think overall if turned out how I wanted. 300whp 2klbs most fun gokart I have driven!

Hey guys. Finally got in here and can't wait to be part of the family. Figure I would say Hey and introduce myself! Looks like this place is great with tons of info and lotta people with the same intrests! I live in vegas, into all sorts of cars and always been a fan of the 240 so finally picked a good donor car to start the journey. I have big hopes with plenty of time. ls1/6spd coilovers/brakes/flares ect I want all of it. Might take a couple years but thats how it works. I try to be simple/clean with my mods but with the punch to perform when needed. My Daily - 530/490 to the tire. Track ready with coils/sways, seats/harness' and a tire swap.

Dont know if you have already done this or not but looks correct. I installed a set today on the car but haven't cut the fenders yet. Just wanted to get them on and mounted to see everything.. I noticed if you just lay it on the car you willnotice the ends of the flare tent to come into the body a fair distance making it look a little funky. I ended up get the centered right then grabbed the ends themselves and pulled in a bit to tighten the arch a hair and get the fitment a bit closer. Once i got that figured where it needed to be i hit the top center hole with a rivet to secure and start the bonding process. Then grabbed the end again and pulled in to where it needed to be. The next rivet went one over from the top center in the direction you want to start at(front or back dont matter from what i could tell). Worked my way closer to the end piece/farthest hole and secured that. Same basic steps on the other 3 and turned out good. I do notice the shape of the wheel wells are kinda funky and not symetrical at all. Makes it look odd at certain angles but awesome in every other one! love the look!! Cant wait to cut the fenders and stick some huge wheels/tires and get that stance right. This is total quik cheap budget to get things clean as i then slowly upgrade to all the good stuff. Couple pics of after the flare install today. Bad cellphone pics but.. Im stoked