Jesse OBrien

Maybe I'm getting closer to figuring this out. My girlfriend was good enough to try identifying which wires were which colors, and I organized them a little better into a micro-diagram: I'm relatively sure that this "brown" color the wiring diagram speaks of gets constant 12v directly from the battery. I'm still poring over it to figure out which components I really have, though. I also discovered that the ring terminal that's attached to the + lead of the starter apparently provides power to much of the car. Anyone know what color that wire is, or where I might find it on the wiring diagram?

I have a confession to make. I'm colorblind I know, it's hard to just come out and say it, but we all have things we need to admit to. Now that I've got that off my chest, I need to ask the really stupid questions. Partly because my previous owner didn't pass on any wiring documentation on his progress, partly because I don't know what year this engine's from, partly because the WEALTH of information about the l28et takes days to paw through, and partly because I'm colorblind ... but also because my landlord pulled the rug out from under me and surprise! I no longer have a garage bay to work on this car. That means it needs to be inspected by this weekend, or it gets towed. To get it inspected, it pretty much just needs to be able to sputter around on its own power in only two (20-degree) evenings. I really need your help. Let me start with a lay of the wiring land. Here's what I know for sure: This engine only appears to have one fusible link box (pictured at right, 2 inputs, 2 outputs, 2 wires connecting the two). One of those circuits has continuity (closer to the camera), the other does not. My ignition tumbler has no power coming in to it, and therefore does nothing at all. As far as I can tell, the ECU also has no power. When I received it, there were 3 wires connected to the battery + terminal, connected via a yellow crimp connector: white (it's a trap!) green red (blurry, but you get the picture - ha! pun!) Because nothing appears to work, I thought I'd start there, hoping to uncover some obvious fix. Unfortunately, now I'm just more confused than ever. The red and green wires appeared to run to a relay just off-camera, so I pulled back the looming, and uncovered these disconnected leads: The more observant among you may notice that there are more than three now. red - already discussed, connected to + green - already discussed, connected to + color? was disconnected color? also disconnected is actually an IMPOSTOR (it was never white after all! it was [insert color here]) and the 6th is new, but was also disconnected Here's the wiring mess that's looming (ha! pun again!) before me ... it's what's coming out of the loom. (left-to-right) yellow(?) color?/color? color? black(?)/white color(?) white green(?) Finally, here's the backside of the relay in question. Coming out of the loom, but not connected to anything at all: (top to bottom) color? color? color? color? white I'm sorry for the piecemeal photos, I'm working on a proper wiring diagram, but needed a good way to identify all these wires. I'll work on a numbered wiring diagram with a bunch of question marks shortly. I know the fuel pump is a concern, and the igniter is a concern based on the research I've done. How concerned should I be about them? Am I risking lighting fires or frying the ecu (assuming it's a working unit to begin with) by getting everything else hooked up first? I have 0 problems with wiring virtually everything into toggle switches and running a screwdriver across the starter posts to start it up ... as long as it starts up. Once it's running, I can probably work my way through any body wiring that the car might need, but I really need to solve this part of things RIGHT NOW. Thanks, guys. Please come through for me.

Having the key won't help you steal it, you'd have to get it running first You'd also have to fend off my crazy drugged-up neighbors, then contend with the crazed owner with too many guns. Based upon what I've read, they used a VERY limited subset.

That was the first place I tried looking, but had no luck on this car. If that piece of paper was still there, the text was long gone.

Bandwidth is the big problem with using a tablet. Megasquirt really is the right way to do this, with an Android interface that connects to it and offers your outputs. You could write a small Java application to manage the primary power relay that feeds megasquirt, and let megasquirt handle everything from there on out. Generally speaking, the ECU and Carputer are separate entities, for several reasons. ECU's are considered embedded devices, which are generally much more stable and reliable than machines that run several layers (operating system, driver layer, library layer, application layer). The Carputer should interface with the ECU, but should not run the ECU code. You could reasonably easily make a 'body control unit' out of an Arduino, which wouldn't be a bad idea at all. It can process several inputs/outputs and control relays (with an output boost in voltage). I definitely wouldn't trust Android hardware (or operating systems) to directly an engine, though. As a tuning tool to write to an ECU, it's a great choice. As an ECU, there are far too many possible points of failure for me to have any faith whatsoever in that solution. These are just my thoughts after 10 years of high-availability software development and systems administration. I'm no electrical engineer or ecu specialist, so someone else may be able to speak to that better than I can.

Re-caught this thread again, I'm resurrecting it for a reason. I pulled the passenger door tumbler, and was baffled at the lock of a code. I figured I was looking at the wrong part of the car, so I kept pulling parts out. Eventually, I realized it's on the side of the housing of the tumbler, under a couple layers of oxidization. For future reference, it can be found here (a photo would have saved me a couple hours):

I finally got both bumper skirts/covers off, along with one of the side skirts. The driver's side skirt is being somewhat problematic, so my drill is charging and my stepper bit is waiting for action. Something was living in one of the rocker panels, and had nested in there. That nest absorbed some water, and ... you know where this is going. I found another small patch that'll need to be cut and welded in under the front wheelwell also: In more positive news, my first look under the car was really encouraging. The frame rails are reinforced and extended to the back of the car. It looks like all they need is paint and underbody coating, and I'm in business. It's nowhere near as bad as I had expected, and replacement panels are available, inexpensive, and straightforward to weld in. I'll visit Bad Dog soon to pick up a pile of little things I need. Most of the other rust is just going to take some wire wheeling and a fresh coat of paint, but I'm sure there are a couple other spots I'll have to patch. I certainly didn't expect perfection out of a near-40-year-old car for $1k. I temporarily repaired the passenger window (it's up, but only two of four tracks are attached, so it doesn't move from 'up'), and found that the ratcheting latch mechanism on the driver's door is broken. It's kind of a pain to remove, but I'm going to pull it this weekend and see if it's salvageable or if I need to order a replacement. I haven't tried starting it yet (I'm slightly nervous to, if I'm honest) and haven't tried the brakes yet. I'll bleed them this weekend, hopefully prime the fuel pump, and possibly start it up. After that, I think the tail lights are going to have to go back to stock. Corvettes can get away with Corvette lights, I don't find them pleasing on an s30.

I wouldn't take that project on if he paid me. Even if you ever 'finish' it, it'll never be right again. You would be better off picking up some sheet metal, body tools, and the body measurements section of the FSM than buying that. In California, there's always a running s30 for a grand within 4 hours' drive. Instead of trying to get this one cheaper, consider buying a plane ticket for a better example instead.

see http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/115530-nh-280zx-t-t5-and-driveshaft-400/ verified 55k miles on the 82 zx-t donor. Haven't cracked it open, but it looks/rotates as a 'used but serviceable' transmission. The car had been last registered in 2010.

The body kit is sold to a fellow hybridz'er that I'm hoping to meet up with this weekend. All that's left to do to get ready for him is jack up the rear end so I can drill out the rusted sheet metal screws in the wheelwells. I half-repaired the passenger's window today so it would stay up and keep rain/snow out. I mocked up the air dam, but it really doesn't look like it's going to fit without some modifications: By the feel of things, I'll have to remove the tab that sticks out from the front of the lower radiator support and move the horns out of the way, then I can secure it and start drilling some mounting holes. Hopefully I can get the passenger's door lock off so I can have a key cut, I couldn't find the code in the glovebox, and the ignition tumbler isn't bad enough that I can turn it with any key.

Let me get the driver's door lined up, it won't even close on the new 280z. Then we'll get back to making/installing worn parts. I've had too many projects up in the air, so I haven't had a chance to wrap up the fabrication series yet. Right now, there are 5 articles remaining. The goal is to have them finished for the new year, and wrap up the entire series then. Update time! The money shot: I used an array of high-precision rust-identification tools (screwdrivers) to identify any potential rust problems, and this was all I found: I'll call that a win, and an easy fix. There's a nice MSA (I think) downpipe that could use some header paint, and an o2 sensor! The most damaged of the wheels. These things weigh NOTHING, and they're currently fitted with 195/75-14 tires. Haven't checked their width yet, but the lack of heft has me a bit excited to use these for race wheels. I couldn't find the l28et afm, but I found a stock l28 one (I think?) I really hope this is an l28et ecu, not an l28e: Correct me if I'm wrong, but BW t5? I think I'll keep the Datsun 4speeds I have, and put this up for sale. What's the going rate these days? I have some major server changes to push out this weekend, so I won't have much time to work on it, but I may hire someone to rewire the l28et for me. Being colorblind and working with wires that have been fading for the past 40 years isn't a good combination, overall. Has anyone put together a minimal l28et wiring diagram with the 'bare essentials' and nothing extra?

The l28et is separate from my two n42's with SU's on them, I would be swapping one of those into this. With the carb'd SU l28 under the hood, I could squeeze into U4 (unprepared 4) class on 14x7 street tires, where the l28et would have me planted firmly in SP2 (street prepared 2). Lower numbers are faster in that class. It looks like I'm keeping both, the 280z with the l28et is complete with the wiring harness, ECU, and it looks like all the sensors except the AFM. In the long term, megasquirt is a bit of a no-brainer, and if all the electronics work to run the stock EFI I'll stick with that for a season or so, then pull the l28et off for the rebuild I'm sure it'll need and plop it into the 240z instead. I'm not sure I see a reason to go with MS3 over MS2 for the l28et though. If I'm reading the specs correctly MS2 can handle sequential injection just fine. That would be the main selling point for MS3, primarily to get better efficiency out of the engine. Those door jamb reinforcements are holding up really nicely, despite a bit of unintended abuse. I may ask for another set for the 280z before too long, I'm impressed with how well that nylon has held up.

It has plenty of rust in the usual places, but no scary rot. The floors look like they were jb welded in, so I'll revisit them before too long. The doglegs were much better than I'd expected (a small patch would be a good idea on the rearmost section of both). They had molded on Corvette (looked like c4) tail lights in, so I'll probably have to spend some time chipping bondo off and putting real headlights back in. I'd call the body an 8/10 for New England. The l28et is in MUCH better shape than I'd expected. It looked like the BW t5 was in the trunk, with a 4spd mounted up. The motor is totally bone-stock, even has the injector cooling fan on it. The ECU and wiring is all there, and doesn't look molested at all, it just hasn't all been hooked up. I've worked out a place to store it for a bit, while I get it streetworthy, so I'm going to pick it up later this week. It was too dark to get photos but I'll snap a bunch once I take possession.

I've bought a number of vehicles in my time, but I'm looking for specific advice here. Here's what I have: 1. 72 240z 2. n42 l28 with SU carbs (x2) 3. 4speed transmissions (x2) It needs a radiator, all the hard lines, pedals, rear brakes, seats, and harnesses before it can move itself around. Because of that, I started looking for a parts donor for all the little stuff, to get the ball rolling. I happened to find a 280z with an l28et in it and a couple manual transmissions attached. It has side skirts and bumper covers, which kind of concern me, and the engine wiring is incomplete. None of that concerns me much, but my previous experience with early Nissan EFI does. I haven't seen a reliable, effective l28et using the stock engine management. Therefore, the plan for this car would be to plop one of my SU-fed l28's in it and put the l28et on a stand as the more serious build for my 240z. Here's the question of the day: Aside from the obvious doglegs, frame rails, battery tray, engine rotation, brake line condition, etc ... what dealbreakers should I look for tonight?

All I need are pads, drums, and hardware, already have two sets of LCA's. Thanks though, buddy.

That's a terrifying thought. I'm never going to Alabama if it's legal to drive around without brakes.

I have none, and would like to be able to inspect the car next month. I'm looking to spend as little (time and money) as possible to get brakes that function (hydraulic and ebrake) and aren't completely seized. If you're not in New England, please include shipping to 03103 in your offer price. Thanks guys (and gals).

I've been talking to some of the more experienced local hillclimbers (many have been doing this for as long as I've been legal to drive) about more standard scca/hpde/autox events and they all suggest starting by killing some pylons instead of trees to start out. They also universally recommend high treadwear tires for the first season, which is advice I took. I picked up some 195-60-14 wheels to pop on my 14x7 wheels for a combination of early season abuse and everyday driving. Once I've grown into them (which could take a couple seasons, if I'm honest with myself), I'd like to have my next step laid out clearly before me. Hopefully those 14" wheels will be mounted up by this weekend and I'll be able to roll the car around and reorganize my garage, at least! I hate to admit it, but I think I'm more excited about the thought of a tire trailer behind an s30 than I am about the tires themselves.

I'm trying to do more listening than talking in this thread, but I had to jump in here. Based on the one hillclimb event I've attended in person, I've noticed that corners are heavily cambered here. The hills are reasonably steep but the corners allow a lot of momentum to be carried through them. Even stock Miatas with sticky tires and aggressive drivers can put down impressive times. All the experienced drivers I've talked to recommend starting on street tires for slow, forgiving handling. Despite the added cost associated with changing wheels in another season or two, I think I'm going with some inexpensive 15x8 steel wheels for now with some 'grippy' DOT street tires on them. I still have a lot of research to do for prep, from a good roll bar to basic suspension tuning, then I think I'm going to get a small HF trailer and fab up a tow mount for it so I can haul some tools, spare parts, and wheels out to the events. I'm looking forward to next season quite a lot, thanks for all the advice so far everyone. It's extremely helpful.

That sounds like a great project, 15" wheels are more budget-friendly on both wheels AND tires than 17" (I've had a very hard time finding inexpensive steel race wheels in 17", but there are piles of manufacturers making quality 15" wheels). Your point about Spec Miata (and spec e30, if I remember correctly) tires lends even more value to the inexpensive wheels. While I don't hate the idea of overfenders or spacers, it'd be nice to know what would fit on which brakes without any modifications. It'd also be nice to know which wheels interfere with suspension components. The PROBLEM I see with 15" wheels is that they're really only common for 205 and 225 widths. Anything wider and 17" is really necessary. Because I'm running a stock l28 on SU's, mostly-stock suspension, and this will be my first season racing, available grip isn't going to be the limiting factor and I don't expect to bump up against the limits of those tires.

Gotcha, so it turns out I'm as lost as you are. Have you looked in the FSM diagram?

I'm learning a lot just watching this discussion go back and forth. I was wary to ask this question, because I know exactly how I'd answer it if I were the one with more experience. ... just like that. So there's no simple answer, no formula that fits every car. Because our runs are ~4minutes (absolute max, that's a stock Daewoo ambling up the longest hill in the area), I think I need to focus on cool-weather temps. For now, I think my question has been answered: On a mostly-stock s30, 15x8 0 offset 225-[proper-gearing-height]-15 is acceptable. I'll have to do my own testing and fine-tuning from there. Heavy, I'm curious as to why you'd choose 17" over 15" if the widths are the same, and brakes don't demand it. I'm trying to focus on wheel width more than wheel diameter, but what's one more wrench in the equation?

I have no problems whatsoever with flares, I just want to be sure that wider is actually going to be a handling improvement.