Jesse OBrien

Well, for the price, I think I'd go with the reconditioned n/a injectors here: http://osidetiger.com/reconditionedinjectors.aspx I've dealt with osidetiger before and was extremely impressed. Even got a printout of the final output stats of each individual injector. I don't have any affiliation with them, but here's what I thought of the experience. The caps didn't quite fit perfectly over the tips of the injectors, so I ended up just going without caps (they aren't really essential anyway, they just help guide flow if installed correctly). Here's my review, if you're interested in some reading: http://www.drivendaily.org/news/review/vendor-review-osidetiger-injectors/

I'm not really sure how much variance the ECU can accommodate. Hopefully someone with more experience regarding Nissan ECUs can chime in. I know most ecu's will handle larger injectors by simply adjusting their pulse rate. There are definitely tolerances that each ecu can handle, but I don't think the stock vs turbo injectors are all that different. If I remember correctly, the turbo injectors were only ~250cc/min @42psi

The curve matters way more than the peak numbers. Let's see the scan! Also, did you get a/f numbers from the dyno run? That'll help to let you know if it's the injectors, maf, or something else entirely. I have a spare set of turbo injectors I'd let go of cheaply, if it helps your cause.

Yeah... now that you point it out, that's an interesting design approach. I had started with them in the oil pan, but realized I had made the block about 6" too short, so I extended the block down. I had the turbos layer (which includes the oil lines) turned off, and never double-checked them, so ... yeah, there you have it. Getting ready to order my megsaquirt2v3 kit today, yay!

They're solid rubber. Think of them as thick, squishy washers. If they're still together and aren't cracked or bendy, I can't see a reason to replace them.

I'm going to go out on a limb here and assume the L28et is going to need some work to become mildly reliable (since it's almost 30 years old now), but you'd want to replace the efi system completely as a first step, and add turbo pressure such that you aren't detonating on whatever fuel you're going to use. Replacing the intake manifold is probably a good idea as well, and the exhaust manifold is a toss-up. You're going to have a much harder time getting a transmission that bolts up to the l28et to handle 400hp than you will getting the engine to put that kind of power out. If 400hp is really your goal, a Chevy LS swap will most likely suit your needs the best. If you want a reasonably quick streetcar, get the l28et, replace the efi, and run a little more boost in it. You'd be surprised with what 200whp feels like in these little cars.

You could always do water-cooled throttle bodies. Lots of motorcycles have them if you go the ITB route, and the 240sx has a 60mm water-cooled throttle body if you just use the two bottom-mounted throttle bodies. I don't think the crossmember would be in the way, but the fender would be. My original plan was to have the screamer/dump pipe exit on the driver's fender, like Myron's exhaust does. Honestly, I'm not sure. I assume the friction of the turbos spinning at [insert accurate number with many digits here]rpm alone generates heat. Maybe it wouldn't actually be any worse, but I'm guessing it'd be hotter with two than one. Well, I get carried away with figuring things out. Most of the time, I do this stuff to explain stuff to myself, then just end up posting it to see if anyone can improve on it. I like my stuff to be good more than I like it being exclusively mine. I'm just an open-source kind of guy at heart. Actually, I'd just put the downpipe on before mounting the turbos. Kind of like the order I drew it in, assemble the turbos on each other with the downpipe already attached, and bolt them onto the exhaust manifold... If anything, I'd imagine the charge pipes (and air/water intercooler, since that's the only place it'd fit) would be the most difficult part of all of this. Right now, I'm just getting ready to order some mandrel bends to make a traditional externally wastegated manifold, and I'll just bolt one of my t3/t04e's onto that and sell the other (already sold it, actually). Can anyone recommend a good fmic with single-sided inlet and outlet at a good price?

Nobody has any thoughts on it? I break it down pretty simply. I'm thinking 6 ITB's after the plenum would be a better idea than throttle bodies on the bottom of the plenum, but they'd be a pain to have to keep in sync.

I spent months and months perfecting these designs (sarcasm) and plan to sell them for 6 bajillion dollars (sarcasm smeared all over) so please don't rip them off of me. If you're interested, check out the l28ett manifold designs. (not sarcastic, you really should check it out. It's amusing and I haven't seen anyone do it yet... I'll even include a picture so you aren't misled as far as the quality of the design.)

Definitely missed the original deadline, but there's been a ton of progress. Poly bushings are at my house right now, waiting for me to get out of work. The 480cc/min injectors are in, and I'm now considering doing an l28ett build (it'd be nice to get some feedback/comments on my site, if anyone has time). I've just finished sourcing my megasquirt 2 v3 setup, and have the transmission assembled, hooked up, and ready to go. I added a 280zx-t driveshaft in place of the heavy 240z driveshaft (I imagine the 280zx-t driveshaft is a lot stronger as well, but don't know for sure). My r200 is sitting behind the car, ready to go in, and I just started molding some interior pieces with the carbon fiber I ordered. So. Progress. Lots of progress. It's still not finished yet though. Hopefully soon. The weather isn't exactly right for a cross-country trip in a turbocharged 240z anyway, though. Looks like Spring is the new timetable.

It's still going on, actually. Yesterday I took a big, heavy hammer to one side after removing it from the car, and broke off the outer rim of most of one. I'll post pics soon. I've been busy with work and a few other projects, and haven't spent as much time as I really should have on the Z. I'll be making more time for it now, though. Expect pics tonight.

I'm running the non-vented Toyota caliper/rotor setup in the front. One of the stock calipers was seized so I went ahead and just replaced 'em both. I figure it can't be any worse than before. My power in my house went down last night so I couldn't fire up the compressor, and essentially got nothing done on the car. I'll spend some quality time with it this weekend, if anyone's in the Bay Area and wants to come along, I'm in Oakland. Just shoot me a PM and we'll make some plans to meet up, I could definitely use a hand!

I have a big die grinder and a 60gal compressor. If I end up forcing them off, I promise it'll get the job done. If not, the 6" angle grinder will make short work of 'em. It won't take much time, and I'm not too concerned about safety (I'm still seriously considering spraying a bunch of starter fluid in them and lighting a short fuse while I run like hell). It is worth a try. I get off work in an hour, I'll try it then and report back. I'm in 94607, can you let me know what shipping would be? Also, the engine isn't hooked up to the transmission, the fuel system isn't installed, and there's no driveshaft. ... sooo, that's a whole world of no. But thanks for trying! Between the two sets of old drums, I think I could make a working pair (new shoes and springs, of course). If I don't have them off tonight, they're getting cut in half. Our junkyards suck pretty badly out here, there's pretty much just Pick 'n Pull, and I absolutely hands-down refuse to go there after my last 3 visits. I am interested in what you did though, what did everything come off of? Is it a 240sx setup? I'm not going anywhere. What the hell are you thinking, using the right tool for the job? Pffft, go back to wherever you came from with your making-sense-logic-talk! I don't know if I'm willing to wait for a new tool to come in, and there isn't a single decent store near me (I already checked OSH which is a ways north of me, and that's the best in the area). Well, I should get a puller eventually. You can put good money down that I'll have one for my next brake servicing, but it's not happening for this week's project. --- I just realized that I have pictures of 3 cars that I no longer own in my sig, and no pictures of my current Z. Maybe I should rectify that situation...

You guys have the best suggestions for fun ways to make them non-reuseable. I tried PB Blaster, didn't do much good. I can't even tell where the seam is supposed to be around the hub, it's all just a solid piece. I don't have an air chisel, but a bigger hammer may just do the trick. I want to believe the drum is worth saving, it even has all its fins! I didn't try going in both directions with the adjusters, I just went down. Only one of the drums is actually seized though, the other still spins freely. I like that idea, that makes a lot of sense. Can you tap the lugs all the way in though? Don't they hit the back plate of the drum before they sink completely into the drum housing?

I've spent about 4 hours in the past couple days trying to get my drums off. One is seized, and the other spins freely (ebrake and lines are disconnected on both) but the cover simply won't come off. I feel like I'm missing something, so before I cut them both in half, I want to see if anybody has more sensible solutions. I've already cut enough pieces off this car, I'd like to keep these. Keeping them sure beats the alternatives. Just so we don't re-cover any ground, and because I know half of you won't read that first part, I have already: Disconnected hydraulic lines Removed bleeder bolts Disconnected e-brake cables (and broke the stupid little cotter pins) Yelled at it Smacked it with a hammer, a 2x4, and my foot (bad idea, don't try that one) Spun the brake that's not locked up, hoping something would ... move? Removed the two anchor bolts on the top, on the inside of the drum (toward the diff) Beat the hell out of the circular opening next to the bolts, and moved the 'anchor' Swore up and down at Haynes for giving me such a crappy description of what to do ('Remove the front cover... if it's stuck tap it lightly with a hammer, using a 2x4 as a cushion'... Jesus Christ, I've been rougher with windows than these guys are with brakes) Broke my hammer smacking the drums. Yes, that's right. My hammer is broken now. It's in many pieces on my garage floor. Moved the mysterious adjuster fin-gear-thingie that's inside the drum down. I may have broken it off at some point, as well. I guess it's supposed to relieve the tension on the brake shoes. The drum still won't come off. Heat. Lots of heat. I'm out of propane for my torch now. I don't really want to replace the drums with disks, because that means brackets, a proportioning valve, waiting for parts to come in, finding out that I don't have all the parts, waiting for more parts to come in, finding out some of the parts are the wrong parts, and dreaming of someday getting to drive my car. I'd much rather rebuild these drums and toss 'em back on and call it done. At this point, I'm pretty pissed off at the whole situation, especially since this is something that should be regular maintenance. I've looked around and heard similar complaints, suggestions to heat them or hammer them, etc. The common complaint appears to be that the center of the drum is a part of the wheel hub (or something along those lines) and seems to have been hammered into place, so it doesn't slide off nicely. So, suggestions? Please? If nobody has any good suggestions, does anyone have some old drums you're willing to give up or sell? I've got a pile of cutting wheels for the die grinder, and I do have a great time playing with it, so I'm not too opposed to forcibly removing components if I have a replacement. It seems like a lot of people move up to discs, so there must be some old drums sitting around in a bin in someone's garage. Thanks in advance!

That's myron. I don't have a link to his profile here, but I did write this a little while back: http://www.drivendaily.org/news/featuremyrons-s30/

This thing started an engine fire, and it's all that's left! Look, it's even melted around the outside. Not only do I want a refund, I want a new car! It was gone today though. Thankfully I spent most of my day in the garage, and finally have it back to myself (there were two extra cars that weren't mind in there up until now).

I was riding home from lunch this weekend, and came across this: I felt bad but it still intrigued me

I had forgotten about this thread. I recently started a DD group on Flickr, we need some s30's up there! http://www.flickr.com/groups/drivendaily/

New injectors (450cc DSM, 275cc DSM, stock l28et, new 480cc replacements): Injector sheet: New set of springs (compared to stock) Smaller wastegate and t3 -> t3 flange with a wastegate flange on the side: One of the strut tower bolts on the front has loosened itself from the spring cap, so turning the nut on the strut tower just rotates the bolt. I tried cutting a notch in it so I could get a little leverage on it with a screwdriver, but no luck. It's pretty seriously stuck on there. I suppose I can just cut all the way through the nut, and that's probably what I'll end up having to do.

I have a 60mm wastegate sitting around for when I'm ready to up the boost to that level. It's not a MASSIVE turbo, but the compressor side is a fair amount larger than stock.

Thanks for the input guys. GrayZee, I don't have the option to run at stock (or even stock-ish) boost since I don't have the stock turbo, and am automatically forced to go with an external wastegate. The electronic boost controller would definitely work, but you're right about them being expensive. It's more than I care to afford at the moment, so for the time being I'm going to experiment a little with the boost plenum idea and a passenger to gather data. I may be able to automatically log pressure and o2 sensor output, so I'm going to do a little experimentation with plugging them into a sata plug and logging the output. Wish me luck.

I'm in the exact same place (throwing money at things, I just ordered a brand new set of injectors for $200, as an example). If you don't mind, let me know how it turns out and exactly what you end up ordering. I'm fairly sure I'm going with a 2.75" or 3" exhaust myself, since the ideal l28et setup is basically established.