Jesse OBrien

I hate you guys, you're all giving such great reasons to do both. Well, here's the current status update: Both engines are out, and I'm sussing out the wiring, adding a proper blade-style fuse box, and adding a few relays to the major systems of the car. I figure that's a good idea no matter which engine I use. I have a few transmissions to choose from, but they're all 4spd, not exactly the greatest for a cross-country trip. Anybody want to trade 3 4spds for a 5spd? Now its time to start cleaning the engine bay, replace that bad clutch line, fix the wiring, secure the battery (in a sealed tray), drop in the ZX radiator and Camaro radiator fan, and finish making my seat rails and somehow secure my floor (no welder, just pop rivets). I'm using a thunderbird intercooler, have a BOV in my current plans, and have a Turbonetics .55ar turbo headed my way since I don't have the t3 any more. It's externally wastegated, and I think I'm just going to do a screamer pipe to keep it simple and non-time-consuming. Any suggestions for a cheap BOV and Wastegate?

I don't see a walkthrough on installing a shortnose r200 differential from a 1981 Nissan 280zx into a 1972 Datsun 240z. Hollander Interchange lists parts that are directly interchangeable. It would be community-maintained, rather than having some editors working very hard to do less. Lastly, it'd be completely free to use. All users would need to do is contribute when they see something wrong, similar to a wiki. This would simply be a wiki with a more complex data structure, better search, and templates for each view. Does that make sense?

You get to pull the dash, but my only complaint about pulling the dash is that the screws closest to the windshield require a short screwdriver, something i almost never have.

That's a reasonable reason to keep it, but I'd at least toss that blower motor. Replace it with a couple of 120mm case fans out of a computer, and have them route from the hot side of the engine, next to the headers.

You need heat in Ventura? I know I don't. Extra weight.

I've been mulling this idea around for awhile, and have seen it implemented to some degree or another in various places around the 'net. I need one or two other coders (preferably more skilled than I am) and I'll need a small team of testers to make it happen. It'd be nice to make this a non-profit type thing, but I suppose something else could be worked out if we need compensation. The basic idea is simple: build a database of interchangeable parts between vehicles. As simple as that sounds, it's very difficult to populate and manage. The data structure is obscenely simple, but the interface is a little more tricky. There needs to be a categorical structure for both make/model AND part type so users can quickly search for their car to find parts available, a part they have that they'd like to put into a car, or a specific component on their particular car that they'd like to replace. It's also important to implement 'howto' articles, along with a difficulty/cost rating of some sort. Anyway, before getting too carried away with the idea, I'd like to see if anyone else here is interested in helping to pick this up and make it happen. I have a bit of code written in Django, but I'm open to using the Google Appengine (which is super-sweet, but the data structure is a bit funky) or just php, or I'd even learn Ruby on Rails if that's what you're good in. Ideally, I want two or three other developers who can put in 10 solid hours a week. This shouldn't take more than a month to get to a working prototype, and then the database can be populated in a meaningful way. I'm open to any ideas/suggestions/concerns/etc that you guys might have. This is a VERY barebones description, I'll write up a more detailed design doc and a coding best practices doc if there's any interest.

I had no idea there were so many NH Z's! I miss seasons!

Gutted the s130 a fair amount yesterday. If anybody needs some s130 parts (that aren't related to the engine), let me know! *edit* my phone really does take some sweet pics sometimes.

It's not a bug, it's a feature!

I haven't seen rain in 8 months (except the week I spend in NH last week). That's why I'm moving back. Anybody hiring computer people in the Seacoast or Nashua area? I'll buy some galoshes on the way there.

You really need to find out what your budget is for this. I'd say $1k is a good place to START. Even that's a little low, since I already assume you'll want fresh tires, brake pads/rotors, fluids, battery, spark plugs+wires, and registration/insurance. Make a big list of things you absolutely NEED to get it on the road. Budget the parts that are absolutely essential out. Keep your eyes open for screaming deals on craigslist or ebay while you're saving up your $1k (or whatever your goal ends up being). If you can't come up with the budget ahead of time, you're probably much better off tearing this Z down and using it as an investment. Sell whatever you don't plan to keep for your next Z, and keep your eyes open for a decent shell that won't NEED as much work. If you can, I'd suggest tearing it down to the bare chassis and taking it to a media blaster. Most shipyards have them, some body shops will have them, and nearly any metalworking industrial yard will have them. Check with construction companies and the like. If you can't find someone who'll take the whole chassis to bare metal for you at a reasonable price ($300 or so is a good place to be) borrow a compressor and buy a sand blaster. Wire wheels just don't cut it as well as a soda blaster does. Of course, this is your project. If you wanted to go the really cool route, you'd just put a beefy roll cage in there, make sure the frame rails are solid, drop a v8 in it, and call it done as-is. Don't even paint it. Sure, it'll rust away and be breezy, but it'll be real fast while it's doing it!

I'm in on this one too, I want to see where it goes.

I'm interested in how turbo swaps nickel and dime. I think keeping the l24 on there to suss out the suspension/drivetrain/noises/fumes problems is a great idea. I like that idea. Have a link to a howto/diy/some-more-info? I've been searching for l28et swap info, and it's been frustrating. I've seen a lot of "how do i put an l28et into my s30" threads answered with "search" but search comes up with a lot of tangential info. Isn't there an l28et swap sticky somewhere? /rant I just don't really feel like searching for MORE l28et info, there's a lot of mud to slog through in those search results. Got a new battery, alt will happen when the engine happens (I hadn't planned on it until now, thanks for the suggestion), fuel lines are all cleaned w/ compressed air, evap lines are all new, new battery is in, and I've been planning an electric fuel pump for awhile. One thing that wasn't completely sorted out for me is which one to use. I have the fuel pump from the s130 that I could use, but what's the easiest/quickest/most-reliable/least-expensive route that I could go? Best middle of the road option, in other words. The tank is a bit more difficult to clean out, I'd like to have it coated, but I don't really think that's a realistic option. I might just put a filter in the line before the electric fuel pump, that way I can replace it any time it gets gummy. That increases the likelihood of running the pump dry, though. How does the Mr. Gasket handle running dry frequently? I used to live in NH, and am moving back to the Nashua area (subject to change). I'm lucky enough to have a job waiting for me there, so I should be able to make it a fairly seamless transition as long as the drive goes well. Thanks for stopping by this thread, Craig. I was hoping you would. I'm going to have to add a cig lighter, since I've converted my current one over to be a momentary starter motor button. I hadn't really thought about the phone thing, but that's a good idea. I don't have a spare wheel, so I'm going to bring a can of fix-a-flat and some compressed air (since fix-a-flat doesn't always refill the tire completely). Spare fluids are a good idea, but I see my storage capacity dwindling as they fill up the rear cargo area. I'm not sure what parts are hard to find on the l28et. It has only one belt, and the only major failure point I know of already is fuel supply, caused by the injection system or a faulty fuel pump. I suppose spark could be an issue too, but as far as I know, all the commonly broken parts are commonly available. Somone please correct me if I'm wrong. I'm definitely going to see if any people between here and New England will be willing to give me a hand should something go wrong, I might even be able to work out some backyards to camp out in. My route is right along i-80 pretty much the whole way through Ohio, and I hope to leave early enough that the weather won't be too much of an issue. Thanks for all the advice so far guys, I'm really looking forward to this trip! I'll keep you updated on the status of the car as it comes together.

It runs fine, but carbs and mileage (it'll average around the same as the l28et, but efi is less maintenance on long hauls). I'm cleaning up the l24, and will likely sell it as-is, but running. I suppose I should get a video of it running before I pull it out of the car.

Looks like the vote is leaning toward the l24, but the comments say l28et... it showed up last night, by the way.

Wow, you guys really came through for me, what a great turnout of info! The l28et showed up today (thanks Gollum!) and I'm pulling it this week. Once it's out of the s130, I'll decide whether it's going in or getting sold. I do see a few huge pluses to putting it in, but it's a fair amount of work. Lots of vac lines to block off, lots of bungs and connectors on the intake manifold to remove, need to mate one of my 4spd transmissions to it or find a serviceable 5spd (I have a Nissan t5 available to me, but I'm not sure I want to use that). As far as fumes go, there are a few good ways to deal with it. I've heard that a spoiler and vortex generators will make a big difference, and if I have time I'll add a belly pan. An extended exhaust pipe completely solves the problem, but I might just end up going with side-dump exhaust instead. If I do the l28et, I want to go for simplicity and reliability. I'll be deleting all the unnecessary accessories, but keeping heat working is a must: all 90 lbs of my co-pilot demand it. Oddman, this trip is definitely happening. I'll be visiting CT from time to time, my sister just finished orientation at USCT. I have a few friends with s30's in NH, but they're all rotting away, unfortunately. I may still be able to get ahold of some uncracked dashes and some cool wheels, though.

The goal: Drive from Oakland, CA to Gonic, NH. Spend less than 1 week driving and $1k including food, shelter, and gasoline. The Car: 1972 Datsun 240z with some rust issues (some of which need to be addressed before driving, others do not). The Challenge: Make it run, sort out the suspension, make the brakes work, mount the fresh tires, mount seats+harnesses, legalize it, purchase AAA Premium, trust the car enough to drive 3,000 miles in one go. Do all before August 1st, 2009. So far, I have quite a bit of work to do and precious little time in which to do it. I'm trying to decide whether I should stick to the l24 that's currently in the car and runs or install the l28et that's currently in a running 280zx and drive it back on EFI. It's a big choice, and dramatically affects my overall time budget. I'll sell whichever engine I do not use to help fund the drive. I have a driving companion, but need to mount the seats I have in order for her to fit in the car (no seat is uncomfortable, no floor is even worse). I have a laundry list of things I need to purchase before taking off, and a lot of work to complete on the car before going ANYWHERE in it. Tonight, I hope to replace the wheel studs and re-mount the intake/exhaust manifolds to the l24 head I have. Tomorrow, I want to order parts so I can spend the next week beneath the car. I'd love to get some cross-country trip prep tips any of you might have. I'm planning a fluid flush on either engine as well as new tires and brakes all around. Should I spend precious time rebuilding the engine, or just trust that it'll be fine for 3k miles?

I think I'm learning more from this thread than any other. Loving the updated pics on the first page as well

Which one are you looking for? Pics? Specific measurements?

Wow. 11154 is a pretty low production number. I think the rule of thumb is that anything under 9k is better off being sold to a collector, but I'd say you're borderline. Like most of us though, I'm sure you'll have it torn apart and purring with some engine that "doesn't belong in a Japanese car". Welcome to Hybridz! Looking forward to seeing more of this car, and get those currently minor rust issues sorted out before they become serious!

And of course, a little bit of back story on it: http://www.drivendaily.info/projects/540z-reborn Good god I miss that sound.

These are ideal for pretty much any car:

That sounds EXACTLY like Gollum's l28et that just has a leaking exhaust manifold. If it isn't seated on the head correctly, it's sputter with every revolution. It's not a problem with his, and won't be a problem on yours unless it were on the intake side. That would make you run lean. ... based on how rich your plugs look, I'm guessing you're rich. You definitely have a leak, it could even be on the cold side of the turbo. Can you feel where the air's escaping from? ... it could also be your EGR, unless it's capped off.