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BrandenZ

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About BrandenZ

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  • Birthday 09/21/1980

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    GEORGIA

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  1. How'd the autox go? What are your thoughts having now driven the car, presumably in street and racing conditions? I still need to do electrical checks on mine, as personally I feel like I have way more assist than I'd like at speed. I've gotten to where I flip the kill switch over 20mph or so...
  2. How much did the appraisal cost? I'd also love a copy of it if you wouldn't mind sharing! 😁
  3. Please post back once a link is up. I'd love to keep an eye on your future sale!
  4. I definitely need to tinker with my tach and vss wire on my install as well. I hooked them up _I think_ the same way mrk3cobra did, who reported great success with it. In my case, I "feel" like the steering is much too loose at speed. I expected EPS to basically 'turn off' above around 30-40 mph. I wired a kill switch into mine, and it feels drastically different at driving speeds if I fully disable it. I was hoping for a much more progressive feel with EPS across all driving speeds, but again currently it feels like vss is being under-utilized or not utilized at all. I'll probably try adding a 'kill switch' to that wire as well and see how it behaves if I kill that wire while driving, and see if it makes any difference at all. If not, I may ping Silvermine and see if there's a way to tweak the EPS to provide less assist across the board. I absolutely love it at parking lot speeds, but it feels too jittery and active to me at driving speeds so far.
  5. Your build is 100% Bring A Trailer worthy! I'd advertise there and set a high enough reserve to where you won't be disappointed if that's all you get. I have no intention in selling mine, but I'll admit I'm very curious to know what kind of a price a well built LS2 240z ends up going for.
  6. I'm running them on an LS2 using Hokes mounts. They're roughly 2-2.5" below the frame rail depending on how you measure (see attached). I've taken an inch out of my strut tubes and am running a fairly aggressive autox/track alignment which leaves me almost exactly 3" of ground clearance from the headers. It looks pretty frightening, but I've managed to clock over 1000 street miles on the car with no issues thus far. Of course, severe grades or speed bumps are very much a no-go!
  7. One other option if you do decide to delete the existing flares is to go with a fiberglass replacement: https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/subtlez/ There are several options out there, the one linked above will fit 9.5s in the rear, but the offset has to be just about perfect. The 280YZ rears would definitely fit those wheels and tires. I agree with Jon that I think it looks odd because of the 'mudflaps' and also because the front is stock. Anyway, best of luck with it!
  8. Do you believe you lost any of the raw / connected to the road feeling of manual steering? When you say it feels like a modern day sports car, my concern is that a lot of newer sports cars feel a bit disconnected / mushy, particularly at low speed and sharp cornering. Roughly how long would you say the full install took? Did you ever get an answer back on the offset on the steering rod?
  9. Congrats!!!! Mine is also a 2006 LS2 / T56, and I completely agree with you on on the sensation of speed. I've had friends tell me it makes them borderline car-sick. I do not have any issues shifting, aggressive or otherwise, in any of my gears btw. Are you running a bigger clutch master cylinder? Are you sure you fully, fully bled it? My engagement is very firm and very close to the ground. Either way, for now you should just enjoy the car for a bit, you've earned it! It's a strange time to be completing a project that just begs to be driven, with all autox / track events shuttered... but at least the streets will be mostly empty for you! 😎
  10. What have you done so far to verify fuel and spark? It seems odd to me that you're lacking both, but the starter turns the motor over. Unfortunately since it's a swap, it's anyone's guess as to how both are wired. Fuel: 240z came with mechanical pumps, but 72-73 did have unused wiring to the back. Mine is a 73 and I personally used the factory wiring to wire my electric fuel pump. Can you tell how yours is wired? Can you find any fuses / have you checked in the fuse panel area? If you turn the key 2 clicks, can you hear the pump turn on? Have you checked the fuel filter to make sure it isn't clogged? If you pull the carb filter(s) and have someone crank the car, do you see any fuel flowing inside the carb? Spark: I assume the HEI distributor runs an MSD ignition and coil. Can you tell how it's wired? Can you find any fuses / have you checked in the fuse panel area? If you turn the key 2 clicks, can you see any lights on the MSD unit indicating that it's powered on? If you pull the coil plug wire (from the center of the dist) and place it near a grounded bolt (strut tower is usually a good one) and have someone crank the car, does it arc a spark?
  11. I hope you do find a local who can help out, but in the meantime... What kind of motor is it? Is it carbureted or fuel injected? If carbureted, does it use a mechanical fuel pump or electric? What kind of ignition is it using? Is it mechanical or electric? Was it for sure running before the dash removal? Do you own a multimeter and know how to use one?
  12. I would highly encourage you to read the thread here: What you should really do is: - Set desired ride height, front and back and side-to-side (measuring with car on the ground) - Have the car corner balanced (optional for tracking/racing) - Have the car aligned as desired Of course, you want this done without any rubbing or clearance issues. In my case, I had to go with less positive caster than I would've liked to clear the front air dam. In your case... Do you have the last known good alignment specs? What's the tire brand, make, and size on both the front and the rear (same tread profile F/R)? Are there any wheel spacers installed in the rear? Do you have the ability to adjust rear camber? Can you trim the inside of the flare or the lip based on your point of contact? My guess is that you do have variance side to side on how the flare is installed. However first you need to set desired rear ride height correctly, not going by wheel gap or coilover threads. That alone may do the trick. If not, you may also be able to dial in more negative camber on the rear and/or do some trimming.
  13. Wow! I just assumed you had the usual bolted on flares. That is indeed quite the conundrum. It looks like great work too, I also wouldn't want to touch it. One other possibility is, if your struts are sectioned (likely with coilovers), that they're sectioned at uneven lengths. Either way if so, that just confirms your issue but doesn't solve it. Ignoring the wheel gap and coilover adjusted length, have you measured the distance from ground to pinch weld on both sides? This is what you should be going by, as cross weight likely is not 50/50. Where is your rubbing / interference occurring and under what driving conditions? Do you have wheel spacers installed at the rear? Do you believe moving the tires inboard more, or adding more negative camber could be enough? What are the rims, tires, and associated offsets? If it's super close, you may also be able to simply swap tires. There's a surprisingly large variance of track width across different brands. PS upvote because chewy.com
  14. I too have ~1/4" clearance difference between the DS and PS with no evidence of prior collision in the rear. The easiest fix is probably going to be to pull the DS flare and mount it 1/2" higher to match the PS. Another option may be to get wheels with a different backspacing (less positive), pushing them more inboard so they'll clear the flares. The cleanest, hardest, and most expensive option would be to ditch the flares and go with a kit (like what Ztrix offers). 🤪
  15. The other thing to keep in mind about the Z, especially the lighter weight 240, is that it's unibody construction. Any part of the chassis that's rusted out can greatly reduce structural rigidity, and in some places (looking at you, tension compression rods) can impact alignment and braking. Even with a clean chassis, if you're planning for 300+ hp/tq, you'll probably want to beef it up with bad dog frame rails at a minimum and/or a roll cage. Unless you're planning for a restoration / cruiser (which I doubt), I'd personally try to find one as clean as possible!
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