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About BrandenZ

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  • Birthday 09/21/1980

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  1. I can't speak for that particular kit, but I do know that a lot of Z community members (myself included) have worked with John and his kits with great success: https://www.ztrix.com/fender-kits/subtlez/ The fiberglass I purchased was exactly as described and excellent fitment, only requiring very simple / easy trimming. I have nothing but good things to say about the customer service and willingness to work with me on finicky / custom needs. Good luck with whatever you decide!
  2. I should've done the same while it was out of the car. I'm not running AC or PS and wouldn't have noticed a thing aside from extra HP! Did you swap out the cam too? Do you plan to have it dyno tuned once it's road ready?
  3. Maybe so. I received the same and also installed one on the top mount and one on the bottom on both sides. Well, the install looks fantastic aside from that one blip! An extra washer or two on both sides should do the trick. BTW -- Is that an underdrive pulley on the crank?
  4. That's odd. I had no such U-bolt clearance issues. In fact, due to steering rod placement adjustments that I needed to make with the Hawks headers, I actually had to loosen and move it with the motor installed. Did you use both sets of washers included in the Hoke kit? If so, I'd probably just add a 2nd set to both sides. Bonus: that'll get your exhaust a bit higher.
  5. Hey Pete, you pretty much nailed my only complaint with them. The collectors are the lowest point on the car, and if you plan to spend a lot of time on the street, you'll definitely have to be extra careful. In my case, my Z sees mostly autox / track duty, and usually I trailer it. That said, I just got back from a 500-mile trip up to Deals Gap to Asheville and back home and had 0 issues on any of the surface streets or entryways...
  6. Very nice, steady progress! I installed my FPR in a similar spot to your sump. You probably already know this, but you can swap the fuel rails with very little effort and place the inlet over on the passenger side instead. Having a set of Hawks headers myself, they're probably overkill for my current NA application, and they definitely made running dual exhaust fairly challenging, but I love 'em anyway. They look outstanding, sound outstanding, and future proof the car for any extra goodies I decide to add. That said, getting them in is quite the challenge. If you decide to go with them, also make sure to fully loosen your steering rack, and place the rod in-between the two primaries before tightening down the rack or drivers side header. PS -- I'm soooo jealous of your remote transmission bleeder, which I neglected to even consider until I had the motor and tranny bolted down.
  7. Nice work, and honestly quite a lot accomplished in just a summer! I too decided to strip down and POR15/rust-proof mine, and can attest to what a giant, giant PITA it is. Even though it took absolutely ages, it's still worth it to 'future proof' the car. As is taking your time with all of the swap work. If it makes you feel any better, I thought I could knock my swap out in just a few months over the winter, ahead of this year's racing season. I finished it all almost a year to the day I pulled the L28, in June! Some of my swap parts I think ran out of their one-year warranty before I ever even had the chance to use/test them! As much as I beat myself up over how slow going everything was, it was all worth it in the end. She ended up cranking on the very first try and has been issue free all the way to the alignment shop, dyno, and now multiple autox events. I'd say take your time (and loads of pictures), so you can eventually just enjoy the ride and very little else! If you don't have time to do it right the first time, when are you going to have time to do it again, right?
  8. I can say from personal experience that the factory clutch master cylinder will _not_ work, at least not with the LS6 clutch and pressure plate package that I used from Tick performance. I went with a 7/8" MC and the pedal feel is outstanding. Also my primaries are 1-7/8", 3" collector which I immediately stepped down to 2.5" to clear the transmission crossmember and keep the exhaust somewhat up inside of the tranny tunnel.
  9. Whatever product and shipping discount you're able to negotiate, I wouldn't mind "gifting that" as an additional donation back to the site, as opposed to receiving a small PayPal refund on my order. Just a thought, as others may feel the same way...
  10. One other note on the steering rack is that if you're using the Hawks headers, be sure to rotate the rack itself while it's all loose to make sure you get the rod nicely placed between the primaries on the driver's side header. I did not take care to do that and had a bit of rub initially. Thankfully, I was able to adjust it with the motor still installed... but again it took the help of a buddy and was not fun.
  11. I can also recommend and vouch for the Hoke kit. I've got about 200 trouble-free miles, including a few autox events on the swap now. Yes, I mean for the slave cylinder. Based on where the transmission sits, it was almost impossible to bleed the clutch master cylinder after the swap. I was legitimately concerned that I'd need to drop the transmission, and kicking myself for not installing a remote / speed bleeder ahead of time. I got it done with the help of a buddy, but it was noottttt fun!
  12. Nice prep work! I received one of their beta kits and the fitment across the board was darn near perfect. All I did was swap oilpans (which I already planned on doing for road racing anyway) and that was that! I do highly, highly recommend going ahead and installing a remote bleeder on the transmission before you mount it in the car. It is a giant PITA without it. Ask me how I know!
  13. I used my 240z's factory 5/16 feed, 3/16 return all day long at countless autox and track events, at 5 psi to dual webers on a 10.2 comp 2.8L E88/F54 combo using a mechanical fuel pump. The only issues I ever had were vapor lock on the hottest days of summer, autox only. Swapping to an electric pump and re-routing the lines around the headers sorted it.
  14. Another member here, RebekahsZ can chime in on his experience with the JCI kit. Personally, I can vouch for Hoke's kit: http://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/s30-ls2-engine-mounting-kit I recently finished an LS2/T56 swap into my 240z. The only thing it required was swapping to the C6 Corvette oilpan. I'm using all the factory sensors, alternator, etc (I did delete power steering and A/C). Other than drilling holes for additional supports for the transmission mount, it's about as bolt-up as it comes. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions and best of luck with whatever you decide!
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