Tekira

thanks for the input, ill take all these color samples down to my buddys body shop and try to get as close as possible, thanks again

Beautiful car! Can any one tell me anything about the paint? Color code or color name? i look at the 918 orange but this is not even close. Ive never seen an orange quite like that!

That is a dcoe style. See the back flange- it has seperated mounts. The dcnf Is the same style but in down draft and has a one square mount. Also that is a tb for a itb set-up

I had triple mikunis 40mm on a hks mani from wolfcreek racing. i pulled them because i needed money to drive out to california. The power difference and driveabilty was so much better with the mikunis, but i want 1 less carb. So i figured that the dgv mani and the 40 or 44 mm dcnf would work out really nicely. ill give the guys at pierce a email.

Hi, I switched back to my SU's from my triples and they have no power and are badley worn. I have been looking at alternatives to the su's besides the triples. I know weber makes a kit for the datsun to make them run the twin 32/36 5a dgv's, but that seems a little small. I know they make a 38mm dgv type that fits the same manifold. My question is will the weber 40 dcnf bolt on the same manifold as the dgv. Does it have the same flange bolt pattern and dimentions. I have looked at pics of both and they share the same square type flange on the back of the carb. If they can bolt up in place of the dgv i think this would be a nicely balanced set-up. Weber guys, Help me out here.

Well i installed the new xr-3000 and that wasent the problem. The thermostat helps. All my plugs were white and hot, lean. Then coming home it started cuting out on me going up hills or when i gassed it. I look at the clear fuel filter comming from the tank and it barley had any fuel in it when the car was running. The pump was sucking air half the time causing the overly lean condition. I have been pulling gas from the drain plug because of a bad tank so i decided so swap out the tank with one i got that was in better shape. I put in the new tank and jumped up the fuel regulator to 4.5 psi and adjusted all valves. Took her out for a test drive and floored it in 3rd and it went all the way up to 5500 rpms with no starvation. (It would crap out before). It also stoped missfiring. It still does missfire a little when it gets a little to hot but not as bad. Did the head or valves get ruined from running it so lean for so long. Also When i put ATF in for damping oil the missfire was as bad as it was before Anyone???

Well i cleaned out the carbs again, hooked up my colour-tune and got the carbs good and tuned up, they were a little lean, but i have had them tuned that way before with no probs. And i Ordered a new xr-3000 unit and a 160 deg thermostat. When i touched the unit its was very hot. I will also check and adjust my valves again. A little side note: 20w50 does not make good carb damping oil Iam starting to think its worth it to just buy the malory dual point dist and just get rid of electric ign control.

In my post i said the plug tips and insulators are white and dont smell like gas. They look almost new.

Hi, I have had this problem for about 4 weeks now and it has been getting worse. I have been driving my car to work lately (25 Miles). When i start the car up it runs fine, smells bad though, then i take it on the freeway and it crusies just fine. Then when i stop at the gas station to put in some gas and the car sits for about 5 min i start her up and the idle is rough and then my missfire problem starts as soon as i start to drive. And its REAL bad. It cuts out completly almost like its running out of gas. kinda like mrrrrrrrrr pop pop mrrRRRRRRRR pop MRRRRRRR. It seams to lessen when i floor it. But Between 10% And 50% throttle Its horrible. The problem gets even worse as the car sits in traffic and heats up, It just lets out a big pop fom the carbs and craps out. This is just like when my coil went out. When i would sit in traffic the coil would heat up and cause missfire. But let me list what i have allready replaced or done to the car to try to fix this: NEW Coil, Wires, cap and rotor, NGK spark plugs, fuel filters, Voltage regulator, Battery Holly Blue fuel pump set to 4 psi, ALL new fuel lines, Su carbs taken apart and cleaned, set timing and set correct rotor phasing What iam try to say is its getting pleanty of fuel and i have replaced all ignition components EXCEPT my crane cams xr-3000 ign unit. Iam thinking that may be the problem but i JUST installed it about 6 months ago. Also i looked at my spark plugs and the tips and the insulators are white. The Car smells bad like its rich though? Because this only happens after i get the car good and hot means something is failing due to heat. Could it be the valves. I just adjusted them 5 months ago. and it only started doing this 4 weeks ago. Also when i down shift into 4th when i am getting off the freeway it pops and back fires like a mofo. I hope i have given u guys enough info to help me out. My car specs are in my signature. I am about to shoot my self over this one:cry2:

My carbs are in good tune but i have not checked my floats. It does run lean and cuts out when i have little gas in tank. But my issue is also at slow, low rpm when it starts to miss. I have had problem simlar to this but it was b/c of the coil wearing out. The car seems to be fine now after i put my other coil on. So maybe its was just the coil. I should have this figured out by tommorow.

Crap It started to do it again. This only happens after i drive the car on the free way for like 30-50 miles then i get off and get into street traffic and it starts to missfire alot to the point that i can't even go faster the the grandma in he truck next to me:icon45: Well one of the older dudes around my place said that because i have the xr-3000 and the ps-91 coil that i am haveing pre-ignition problems due to to much power to the system after the car gets hot and leans out. I Put my orig coil back on(accel) and it started up better and the car sounded much better. Before It would have a ver raspy lean sound WAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA at high rpm WOT. Now Its got more of a WOOOOOOOOOOOMMMMMMMMM. Sry for the gay onamanopiea but hey. Maybe some one besides me could post:-|.........

Well i cleaned out the dizzy and the LED slot wheel thingy from the xr-3000. Changed fuel filters, up my fuel to 4 psi, cleaned carb jets, pistons, needles and float bowls, new rotor, cleaned vacuum adv and made sure my ps91 had a good ground. I drove it alot today and let it sit and started up no prob and ran good drove fine. Still a little stinky but hey... not bad. I didnt check to see if the timing still bounced around because it gets dark at 5pm now so tomorow ill get out the old timing light and see what happens. Ampmeter jumps around a lot when i put on my turn signal now and i can her my fuel pump slow down every time the blinker, well... blinks. I do remember the wire on the back of the condenser on the voltage regulator coming loose and touching the side of regulator (Sparks and smoke). After that the electricals haven't been the same. I still have that regulator on the though. I will replace that as well(30 bucks). See what happens.

Well its all stock 260z 2+2 2600cc with roundtop su carbs and crancams Xr3000 Ign and ps-91coil, Stock dizzy. Sry i forgot to put that in my signiture.

Hi, i went to check the timing with my gun the timing would bounce around about +/- 5 deg. I took off the dist cap and moved the rotor around and it seemed to have A good bit of freeplay. It has also started acting up on me. After i drive it on the freeway then park for about 5-10 min then when i go to start it up again it has a bad missfire and cuts out when i drive it, which goes away after a few min. All my ingition stuff is new except the dizzy. Its all crane cams stuff. The other thing i noticed is that when i turned on all my electrical stuff at once (Lights, hazzards, fan, radio) it acts worse and it almost dies at idle. Bad Voltage regulator? My alternator is new and tested fine. Its not the fuel either, it gets plenty and the carbs, filters, spark are good. What the hell is going on:willy_nil

Hi, I am changing my slave and masters out and purchased the adjustable slave. I still have the later fork installed (without hole). Are there any major differences between the early and later forks besides the hole? I am thinking all i have to do is drill a hole in the fork. Will this work properly?

I think the r200 3.36 is just as rare as the 3.7 lsd. Maybe not worth 500 bucks but if someone has a 3.7 lsd and they need a 3.36 for there turbo seems to be a fair trade to me.

Hi, Iam in the san diego area and iam looking for a r200 3.7 lsd to replace my r200 3.36 (Trade Anyone?). I searched and came up with all z auto wrecking in C.V. Any one know of any other yards is so cal or 3.7 lsd up for sale or trade for r200 3.36

My car did something similar when i would gas it in 1st then put in the clutch to go to second and it would make a squeek or chrip sound. I checked my mounts and the diff had actually come off the mount. I replaced the mount and m/bar bushings and changed out the gear oil to lucas and no more squeeking. I still dont know which of the three caused the chrip. Where is jmortensen when you need him

Well i cleaned it off everything and poped out the spindles and yanked out the old side seals. Now i want to make sure those will never leak for a long time. Any tricks to putting them in or companys that make better seals than others. i mean it seems eazy, just call up msa and get the seals and then pop em in, or is there more to it than that. Im not that concerned about the slug factor of having a 3.36 and the taller gears. I do have 14" wheels so that helps a little. Ill try it out first and see what i think.

Solved! Thx guys, also 2+2 manual's are rare compared to the auto 2+2. I am puting in a 81-83 5sp as well. so with the .74 5th i will be doing 2600 rpm. Ive got a 2.9l stroker ready to go in so torque at that rpm wont be an issue. Ill get some killer mpg though. But If the 3.36 is to low ill buy that 3.54 off ya thumper. I Almost bought a r180 ha.

Ok i did some searching and look at some pictures and it look like my 260z 2+2 has a r200. yea! Anywho i hace come to the conclusion that finding a nother 3.36 r200 is next to imposible so... All it needs it the side seals to be replaced. How do you get the side flanges off with out damaging them or using the special flange plate tool with a slide hammer.

ok, i am really confused. I pulled my diff of my 260 2+2 because it needed new mounts and it was leaking. I thought i had a r180 3.36, but i read a post that said the 260z 2+2 had the r200 3.36. How do i tell the difference? i need to get a new diff and i want to make sure i buy the correct unit. Also if i have the r200 can i swap any r200 from different z's into mine?

I dont think the 260z 2+2 has a r200. I have a 260z 2+2 and it has a r180 3.36 Wait, now i am confused. I thought i had a r180. But the r200 in that pic looks like my diff.

Hi, well the 260 2+2 has the smaller flywheel like the coupes and 240, its in fact the same part number. Only in the 280 2+2 did they start with the lager 240MM flywheel. I noticed this when i tried to install my 280z 2+2 pressure plate onto my origonal 260 2+2 flywheel, The pressure plate was about 25% larger so the dows didnt align. The guy at msa also thought the 260 2+2 had the larger flywheel, but i think i had him confused. So now i am sending back the pp, disc and t/o bareing back to them and getting the approate size parts. Just thought i would put up the info in case any one else ran across this problem.

Hi, its a 74 260z 2+2 and my mom bought the car in 76. It has always had the rims on it but i have never seen them anywhere before. There 14" mags 6.5" wide and very light i can pick one up with one finger. Sry about the pics but best i can do right now. If there not that easy i can take better pics.