jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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If I were to remove my boost signal, the gate would not open at all. I don't see the advantage of running a line from the intake manifold rather than the compressor housing, it would facilitate the same function. See diagram below.
Just for the record, the top port is un-capped to vent.
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Hey Hybrid Z-er's,
I have a small issue with the boost control on my HY35.
I currently run a stock L28ET with an HY35. The manifold has an adapter piece welded to the turbo flange with a Tial 32 mm MVS wastegate hanging off it. The turbo is an open 4" down pipe at the moment.
Currently, I have a 7 lb spring in the waste gate, but I can't seem to keep the boost below 15 psi. I do have a 5 lb spring I will install later this week to see if this clears up the issue, but I'd like to get your guys' opinion beforehand.
For some reason, I had the idea that a 7 lb spring in the wastegate is equivalent to 7 lbs of boost on the compressor side, but that can't be right. 7 lbs of pressure doesn't correlate with 7 lbs of boost, correct? I had this idea in my head for the longest time, but after trial and error that clearly isn't the case.
What spring do you guys run in your wastegate for an HY?
I am tapping a boost reference from the compressor housing using a good sized brass fitting (1/4" I believe) straight to the wastegate. I have yet to plumb my boost controller due to the fact that I need to be able to achieve a base boost pressure on spring. I will then worry about controlling boost thereafter.
Thanks guys!
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Yikes!
I intended to do the same thing, but I got carried away and haven't. I plan to change the oil and filter here in about an hour. I've driven it maybe 30 or so miles.
I'll report back with my findings!
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Okay, long as you guys think it's normal.
It's kind of an eye sore to see the smoke coming out of the breather catch can, but I'm fine with it as long as it isn't an issue.
I also noticed I have 2 fouled plugs, perhaps that could be related to the issue in some way? I'm going to clean them up and see if there is any improvement. I'll also be changing the oil to Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic. Like I said, I have some super duper cheapo oil in there, just to collect all the rebuild residue.
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Gotta have something to worry about...
Do you have any input on this John? Being a heavy L series racing guy, perhaps you have experience with this type of issue?
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I'm kind of in the same boat. The motor has been rebuilt and doesn't have a significant number of miles on it. Rebuilt head, rebuilt bottom end, new metal head gasket, the works!
I'll do another compression test and see what I come up with, but if it remains the same, I'm really not going to worry about it too much at this point. The car runs great and doesn't appear to be affected by it.
Any other suggestions?
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I'm seeing a considerable amount of smoke coming from my valve cover/catch can, and I don't like it.
The car has been doing this since I replaced the head gasket.
Compression tested it at 120 for the lowest cylinder and 135 for the highest, which is about a 9% difference.
Here's a short video I took to try and show the smoke. It's obviously not a whole lot, but it is there.
When should I really start worrying about this? I realize some smoke will come through, but this is more than I'm used to seeing coming from this motor.
I noticed the 'pulses' as well. Smoke from the valve cover means bad valve seals, correct?
I have some pretty crappy oil in here too only because I've just started it, and an old filter as well. I plan to change it this weekend. Any suggestions? Could this be because of the quality and weight of the oil in addition to me recently starting the motor for the first time?
I'm using the Nissan 2mm HKS head gasket, as well.
Let me know what you guys think.
Thank you!
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Hey guys,
Back at it again with this Megasquirt troubleshooting stuff after getting the car running pretty well and ready to start tuning it. Hope to drive this baby on a 800 mile round trip in two weeks, so I hope to get some help prior to then!
I was fortunate enough to take the car out for a little cruise and get some datalog time in, as well as getting some use out of VE Analyze Live. Unfortunately, I'm not 100% satisfied with how things turned out, but overall, the car is running and nothing catastrophic happened. There are a couple things I'd like to point out. I've included a datalog and my current MSQ in this thread for your analysis.
1. The car won't start up nicely. It acts as though it wants to start, and then dies immediately or just putters a couple of times. I am forced to pump the gas pedal slightly in order to get it to idle. Once it has started, it idles just fine thereafter. What adjustments can I make to improve my starting dilemma? I attempted to adjust the ASE curve, but that didn't do anything. I also increased my cranking advance to 20 degrees, but that didn't seem to do anything, either.
2. According to the datalog, I do not appear to have any resets (SecL counter doesn't restart). However, when accelerating, the car tends to blip in and out, if that makes sense. If I were to describe it, I'd say it feels like the spark and fuel shut down for a split second. This seems to happen especially when I was attempting to tune the car in the upper RPM ranges. Every time I would, it felt like I was hitting the rev limiter. In the upper RPM ranges I was able to record in the datalog (3500-4000 RPM), I would experience this. This could be just a lean condition, but I kept bumping up the VE cell values in the region with little to no improvement. I believe one of the cells eventually hit 120!
3. Why is my warm up enrichment constantly on? I noticed this on the main Gauge Cluster tab of Tuner Studio. The "WUE" indicator is constantly green, even though the greatest value for warm up is 160°?
4. A couple of things unrelated to tuning: once in a while, when I turn the key to the on position to prime the pump, nothing happens. I then click off to accessory and then click back to the on position, and it'll work. It's very sporatic. I've checked my switch signal to the relay board and it's solid and I replaced all relays without any success. I did notice the relay closest to the injector 12 V drivers does get warm, even when I replaced it. I'm not sure if this means anything, just thought I'd throw it out there. I also notice that when the car dips down in an idle or I almost kill it when engaging the clutch, the fuel pump relay clicks a number of times. Is this normal?
Those are my main concerns at this point. I'd like to start getting into some boost and tune the car in the upper kPa regions, but I'm deathly scared of detonation and this hesitation up top is really discouraging.
If you guys could help me out by looking over my datalog and MSQ I'd really appreciate it. I'd ideally like to drive the car on a 800 mile round trip in two weeks, but I need to get this figured out first.
Thank you guys for your help, it is much appreciated!!
Datalog:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/s8ofmikz78ul8 ... vebaby.msl
MSQ:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/tcaz08wj2rkt4 ... ntTune.msq
Configuration:
1973 Datsun 240z
L28ET (2.8 Liter OHC)
HY35 Turbocharger
RC Engineering 550cc Injectors
FMIC
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The starter should at least have the following connections:
Positive battery cable on the solenoid stud.
Solenoid activation signal wire.
Negative battery cable, usually bolted onto the starter/transmission mounting bolt.
Switched source lead to the same stud as the positive battery cable.
Body harness ground should be grounded right across from the starter on the fender wall.
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Awesome, good to know.
Thanks!
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Gentlemen,
I didn't take the time to line up my engine TDC and record what the notches on said pulley represents (http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/10-2139).
If you have the timing light on the pulley, as the timing increases, the marks go down with respect to the indicator bolted to the timing cover (this is on an L28ET where the indicator is on the passenger side. See image below. My question is this:
If you're watching the ticks on the pulley with respect to the 0 tick mark on the indicator, when the bottom-most tick is lined up with the 0 tick of the indicator on the engine, is this 0° advance?
Thanks guys!
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Are all Megasquirt boxes sent without this capacitor installed? Should a user only install said capacitor if they're experiencing the symptoms described by Datsun Deron?
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This is good to know, as I just registered my Tuner Studio and may run into this myself.
Did you get this fixed, Challenger?
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I just went through the headache of wiring my coil outputs and found that using a test light and the output test function in Tuner Studio helped out tremendously. The intensity of the test light will change as the coil firing increases. You'll want to use the +12 V supply of your coil(s) for the +12 V supply for the test light and the coil ground(s) for the test light ground.
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Awesome, thanks a lot man.
I knew I could count on you guys to get me a viable solution. I called Jegs, and they're always very helpful with finding solutions to my problems, but this time around they didn't have much for me. The Swagelok stuff is a god send! Looks like the rep right down the road from me has 22 of the fittings I need!
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You're right, I did not think about this. Honestly, of this is as good as it sounds, I will be ordering a set yesterday!
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Wow! This may be my solution, just what I'm looking for!
My only question is...is AN 3/8" as specified on their website equivalent to AN -6?
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Im running stainless 3/8 line also and I ended up using AN to hardline adapters from jegs. They are like 6-10 bucks or something. I have a link to my flickr acct that shows the picture http://m.flickr.com/#/photos/39553792@N02/7110142317/
I'm running a high pressure fuel pump that will deliver your typical fuel pressures for EFI, I'd say 50 or so PSI. I have those fittings too, but I'm pretty sure those won't hold up to these high pressures, especially if you don't flare. Did you, in fact, get these to work for you? Are you running fuel injection?
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Hey guys,
Well, I've run into a big problem. As some of you may know, I bent up some stainless steel 3/8" fuel line to replace the stock lines that run the length of the body. Unfortunately, I cannot seem to find a way to attach/adapt a braided -6 AN hose to the end.
The reason being is that stainless steel seems to be very uncommon when it comes to fuel lines. The material is so hard that you have to buy a hyper expensive tool to flare it, and once you flare it, it is difficult to find a tube nut and sleeve that is stainless steel to work with the lines. Even if I did find a stainless tube nut and sleeve, I'd be afraid of the seal to the aluminum ends of the braided lines. The hardness of the stainless steel wouldn't conform well and, like I mentioned, would most likely result in a leak.
At this point, my two legitimate options are to
1) Rip out my nice, new bent stainless lines and run braided hose the length of the body (which I REALLY don't want to do, the lines look great and I spent a lot of time bending them) or
2) Hunt down some stainless tube nuts and sleeve and try to see if the connection between the aluminum AN hose ends of my braided lines and the stainless tube nut would seal. I don't like this option because once you flare the line, there is no going back and no guarantee that the seal will happen.
There is a third option that I got to thinking about, but it would only be temporary because it is SUPER redneck. Because I'm trying to make it out to the Branson Z Fest on May 30th, I could use a hose clamp to clamp a rubber hose on the end of the stainless line, then attach a male -6 AN adapter to the other end of the rubber hose, and then attach my braided stuff to that. Like I said, that is not what I want to do, but could be a temporary solution.
If you guys would, please throw out ideas and comments. Really trying to get this done as soon as possible!
Thanks!
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I'm noticing a lot of you guys run your intercooler return piping across the radiator after it has been cooled rather than the way mine is installed. Is there advantage to doing this? It seems obvious that there would be significant heat soak since the air is already cool and you're now running it across a hot radiator, therefor decreasing your efficiency.
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Bringing this back to life. What was the answer to this question? I have the same coil pack with the 1x4 dimensions as well (EDIS-6 coil pack).
Thanks!
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Either this or if someone knows where I can source these, I would appreciate it.
Thanks!
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Hey fellas,
I'm looking for the adapter off the bottom of a master cylinder from a car year that ranges from '73 to '78:
I need these:
Hopefully someone has an old master cylinder laying around that they don't have plans for.
Let me know via email at jacobawahoo@gmail.com or reply to this thread.
Thanks!
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I did this recently and successfully had a counting clock. I am personally using MSExtra and they recently came out with a new firmware update that has instruction as to exactly what you are to do. Here is this link:
http://www.msextra.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=91&t=44139
I believe there is a readme in the file that tells you step by step how to burn the firmware. Sounds like you've already done this, just wanted to make sure I got this into the post.
I had some error messages similar to yours, but my unit now responds to the stimulator as it did when I was running MS1/Extra, so I believe I am good to go. You may want to try re-burning your firmware and see if that helps.
HY35 Boost Management Issue
in Turbo / Supercharger
Posted
Unfortunately, if it is an issue of the position of the wastegate, I'm limited as to what I can do. I welder the adapter onto the manifold, so the wastegate won't be moved anywhere. However, I could attempt to port the hole to improve the flow of exhaust to the wastegate if this is, indeed, the issue.
I'll see what happens when I leave the spring out. If it makes a significant amount of boost (something over 15 psi), I may be in trouble!