jacob80
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Posts posted by jacob80
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Yeah here are the floors. Theres definitely a little rust around the grommets on the passenger side. All in all I think they are very manageable.
What do you guys think?
Driver:
Pass:
Let me tell you right now, after pulling sound deadener off of two pairs of floors, DO NOT think for a second you don't have rust. I can almost guarantee you have rust on that passenger side.
For example:
Exhibit A:
Exhibit B:
This is a good example of pure idiocy. Someone decided to fix a small problem, but instead, created a very, very large problem.
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He guys,
Working out a budget and prospective parts list for my next build and would like to have some good rings as well as the titanium nitrate coating for hardness. Which rings would be good for a 400hp L28ET as a weekend/occasional track car? Also, where can I have them coated with the titanium nitrate? I've searched and surprisingly couldn't find much. Thanks!
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Surprising that his ebay page doesn't still exist, but it doesn't. I bought his front timing cover kit and was pretty happy with it. CourtesyParts used to carry a bunch of his stuff, you should ask them if they can still get in touch with him.
So he hasn't answered emails that you've sent to him from the contact on his page? http://www.zcarcreations.com/
I did call the CourtesyParts place and they did not have the bolt kit, but they did say they carry his stuff. Also, yes, I did send probably three total emails over the past couple months to the e-mail address listed on his site.
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Hey guys,
For my next rebuild, I would like to use a stainless steel engine bolt kit from Z Car Creations. Unfortunately, they do not answer emails and their eBay store no longer exists. I did, however, find this:
I'm a little leery of this, though. I have no idea what company this is and their knowledge of this engine. Have any of you guys used this particular kit? Otherwise, does anyone know what happened to Z Car Creations? Thanks guys!!
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Hey guys,
I pulled my UNDAMAGED oil pan off my junkyard motor ('82 L28ET) and discovered this:
What would cause this? My bearings and crank journals seem to show no serious sign of damage, thankfully.
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Hey fellas,
Does anyone have a torque plate they would be willing to lend out? I'm having the machine shop do the run-down on my engine and have heard using a torque plate is a preferred method when honing cylinders. Thanks!
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Hey guys,
Just cracked open my oil pan and discovered the mesh screen on my oil pick-up is trashed. I've looked for this part on MSA and rock auto, but can't seem to find it. Does anyone know where I can get my hands on one of these? Thanks!
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Absolutely not! Everybody knows red as a background color for exhaust housings just makes their flanges look bigger than usual!
Har har har! I only ask because I have never ever once heard of or even seen a flange welded to the exhaust turbine housing prior to this photograph.
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Hey guys,
Well I'm having an issue with the engine being choked out (I think) of fuel and stuttering at a certain RPM/kPa value, usually just lightly touching the throttle at about 65-70 mph in 4th gear. Unfortunately, I do not have a datalog for some stupid reason, but I do have a video. I believe it is a tuning issue, but I just want your guys' input on what I can change. There is no sharp increases/decreases in the VE table, and my brother and I tried to tune the spot with no success actively tuning the VE table. Thanks again guys!
MSQ:
http://www.mediafire.com/?zzd1jnjtiwd
Video (@ 2:39):
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Why is it so slow here lately? 1 post a day. I just have to ask because I'm getting bored at work. LOL
Most likely because of the board format change. I'm sure once everyone gets used to it, there will be more activity. I absolutely LOVE the forum now!
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If it's just a swapped motor and you don't have too much money into it, I'd just check the oil frequently and see if it's using up a noticeable amount of oil.
You should have had the head re-surfaced when you had it off of the motor. The coolant can eat away at the surface and cause pitting, which will lead to leaks unless you have the head surface decked.
I couldn't find a proper picture of a pitted head after a quick search, but this is what you want it to look like:
I would suggest buying some ARP head studs, and getting the head re-surfaced when it is convenient if you are not going through too much oil.
I pulled the head because I also suspected a warped head surface, and I did take it to my machine shop and they indicated that it was not warped. I wanted to do it right, so I bought a genuine Nissan head gasket for this motor. I am not noticing any oil burning or smoke. There is nothing out of the ordinary, that I can tell, other than the visual evidence of oil on the block and crossmember. I will check to see if its the valve cover, that would be nice if it is. If not, I'm going to make sure that its not coming from the distributor hole, either. I read something on zcar.com that stated somebody ran their engine with a small leak like this for a good part of eight years with no problems, but its just disappointing because I made sure I did everything right so this exact thing would not happen. I hate my brand new engine having oil pissing down the side of it.
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Hey guys,
Well I have just installed a new head gasket from Nissan and wouldn't you know it, the damn thing is leaking on me. I had this problem before, but on a different spot, which is why I renewed the head gasket in the first place. The leak isn't awful (as far as I can tell), but I believe it happens only when it is running. The leak is in the area of the passenger side, cylinder #1 right below the spark plug hole. I noticed this becaue there is oil running down the side of the block and onto the crossmember. This leak was not present prior to the new head gasket. My deepest fear is that I'll have to pull the damn head off again after only 60 or so miles of driving the car. I am considering different options. They are:
A) Should I simply wait it out and see if the leak dissipates after driving more? Perhaps the sealing effect hasn't taken place between the cylinder head and block for the head gasket to conform to the surfaces.
B)Should I pull off the valve cover and re-torque the head bolts? I know I did everything right this time, for the very reason of not having to do this!
C) Pull the head off and install head studs to ensure my head bolts are causing the issue and do EVERYTHING over again
I'm kind of bummed about this, but if it comes down to it, I will pull the head. Perhaps you guys have a better solution to this problem. Thanks guys!
Also: I will attach pictures tonight, so you guys can see what I am talking about. Thanks!!
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I can answer one question. If you expect .7 ohms for the primary and your meter leads measure .2 ohms when touching them together, then you will add the numbers. So .9 ohms for the primary sounds correct.
Well, I guess I have a coil or the other car then. Let me start by saying my car is running absolutely amazing compared to what I was. My starter issue has been resolved by installing a new starter. I am no longer getting megasquirt resets. I am able to analyze graphs and have great results when accepting new tables. I would like this to be a troubleshooting guide for others that may have this problem as well. My next step is to figure out how to make autotune work and figure out a good AFR table. Thank you everyone who contributed to this thread, I cannot thank you enough.
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Yes, That is a 240mm flywheel. The NX2 series will be the one you need http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/PCC08/21-2273
The Thow Out collar you will need is http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SCCB08/21-2123
The clutch kit includes the thow out bearing, the pilot bearing and the alignment tool
Okay, that is what I needed, thanks!!!
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For MSnS/E (MS1 processor) I think that is the latest version.
At some point in the distant future you may want to consider moving to a MS2 processor and the MSII/Extra firmware. But right now don't even think about it! Get what you have working first, and in the process develop your MS knowledge. Adding more bells and whistles isn't going to help you right now
I've heard that suggestion before. Will I be able to keep my box and PCB and just solder in the different processor?
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You're on a different version of Megasquirt than I am...
I'm running MS1 MSnS Extra 029y4 V3.0 with Megatune 2.25. Is this not the most current config. for my setup?
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Fixed duty should only be used with an MSD box or an ignition module with built in dwell control. Normally you should set it to "Dwell control." Running fixed duty with a BIP373 coil output can damage the coil... and with a VB921, it'll damage the VB921.
Funny you mention that, Matt, because in my other post, I DID end up with a bad coil. This resulted in the fuel pump circuit staying powered after the key switch was turned off, then a blown 10 amp fuse inline with the coil positive.
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I am not a fan of Puck clutches on anythin other than a full on track car. I would look into the ACT NX2-HDSS or the NX2-XTSS. Do you have a 240mm flywheel (the Fidanza) . If you are already using a 240mm flywheel and clutch, all you will need is a new release bearing...but yeas...you need to use the 280 clutch bearing collar, if you dont have one
Do the fidanza flywheels for our Cara come in either 240mm or 225mm? I thought they were all 240mm. I want a clutch that will hold 500hp with street/occasional track days. I'll look at those part numbers. I would like to get the whole kit of possible, one that includes the throw out bearing, pressure plate, and clutch.
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Hey guys,
I'm thinking about ordering this clutch kit:
We are running an L28ET with stock rebuilt 73 4 speed. My question is:
A) Do we need a different throw out bearing collar for this clutch (240mm)?
How harsh is harsh? This will be a street/track car.C) Are there any other tequirements other than the collar (possibly)? We are using an aluminum fidanza flywheel.
Thanks guys!
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Hey guys,
Just letting you know, the car is running great! Not only is it running great, I'm notgetting any resets! I know this because the SecL counts up to 255 and starts over, everytime! I was extremely proud when I extracted this garage queen for the garage and got a couple gallons of fuel. I cannot describe the feeling of this car finally coming back to life after a months messing with my inition module, megatune settings, blowing fuse, "sticking" HP fuel pump, and the coil. I would first of all like to say thanks to you guys, I have learned more trough this car that I have anything. HybridZ rules!
I do have another question. Although I did swap out the coil, my dwell setting were all at 0 (as you know) before the problem went away. My question is:
Is my coil bad, or was it because the dwell settings were not set?
I did test the coil primary winding at .9 OHMs, but I'm still curious as to if this was truly the problem. Could these setting have been blowing that fuse, or is it definitly my coil? Thanks again fellas!
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Okay guys, just went out and tried a few things, and now my fuse isn't blowing (yay!). Here is what I did thus far:
A) I feel stupid, but all three of my dwell settings were set to 0, so I changed those to:
Crank Dwell: 3.0
Running Dwell: 2.9
Minimum Discharge Period: 0.5
B ) Grounded my distributor to my intake manifold (this is most likely negligible, but I did it).
C) Replaced my blaster 2 coil with the stock coil off my '72.
I popped the fuse in and turned on the key and the pump primed as it should for two second and no blown fuse! I'm still having starter problem
But I think it may be the starter, because I am getting 12.5v to the solenoid in cranking mode. Lately, the solenoid click has become a little more faint, so I'm thinking its the starter, better than wiring issues I suppose! I'll keep you updated, I'm waiting for my battery charger to put a good surface charge on the battery, this is the only way it will turn over after "clicking." I'll keep you guys posted! -
Max Dwell Duration = 3.2 ms
Acceleration Compensation = 1 ms
Max Spark Duration = 0.7 ms
Where do I enter those numbers? Aren't these my dwell settings?:
How harsh is harsh? This will be a street/track car.
Austin Hoke Adapter Plate availability
in Drivetrain
Posted
Hey fellas,
Right now, I'm scoping out my options and have decided on a Z31/Z32 transmission behind my 400hp L28ET. I know Mazworx has the adapter plates, but they are SO overpriced. I saw Austin Hoke makes them for a little over half of what Mazworx is asking, but he doesn't seem to be responding to emails. Does anyone know if he is still offering these plates, or am I stuck having to pay almost $700 for the Mazworx? Thanks!