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jacob80

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Posts posted by jacob80

    My Newest Problem! Blowing Coil Fuse!

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted · Edited by jacob80

    Okay, so here are my test results:

     

    Margin MSD calls for:

     

    Primary Winding: [.6825, .7175] OHMs of resistance

    Secondary Winding: [4.3875k, 5.6125k] OHMs of resistance

     

    My Results:

     

    Primary: .9 OHMs

    Secondary: 5.021K OHMs

     

    Looks like my primary winding may be shot. I'm a little leery of these results because when I simply touch my fluke leads together, I'm getting .2 OHMs of resistance. Should I add this to my numbers, or has MSD already compensated for the resistance of the multimeter (fluke)?

    My Newest Problem! Blowing Coil Fuse!

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted · Edited by jacob80

    You don't think it's possible that you damaged your coil by over charging it or over heating it due to having too high of a dwell setting? I don't think that it would necessarily have been saved from this by having a fuse inline with it.

     

    Good point. But, what if, my dwell settings are optimal and the coil resistance on both windings check out okay? If this is the case, I would like to start looking at my fuel pump relay. I have a feeling it may be causing a voltage spike when it disengages which is blowing my fuse, but then again, why is the fuel pump staying on after the key is turned off in the first place?...

    My Newest Problem! Blowing Coil Fuse!

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted · Edited by jacob80

    Hey guys,

     

    Well, I have my newest addition to my problems, and hopefully this is the root cause to the others. Here are my symptoms, beginning with the fuse blowing:

     

    1. Well, ever since I don't know when, I've had trouble with starting. I'll turn the key to the on position and turning the key further into the cranking position and it would just click, then as I released and returned the key to the on position, which resulted in another click. "Click click" was the sound. Never any sluggish starter behavior, it either starts or just clicks as I described. This may be related, this may not. Maybe you can help.

     

    2. At idle, my car will maintain fairly linear AFRs until warm up has disabled and then shortly after, my AFRs become VERY inconsistent and the car eventually is starved of fuel and dies. I can start the car again and it does the same thing.

     

    3. I've been having an issue with resets in megasquirt, which show up in megatune. These resets are nothing that shuts my car down, but when watching megatune, the gauges "blip" for a split second, and you can tell that something has reset. This issue has not been resolved, and I have been in the process of trying to pin point my issue when all of the sudden, the next issue occured.

     

    4. I'm blowing my fuse on the 12v+ side of my coil. I am using a blaster 2 coil via this wiring diagram:

     

    280zxt_relay_wiring.gif

     

    Here is what happens:

     

    Normally, when I turn the key to the "on" position (no cranking), the fuel pump primes for ~2 seconds and shuts off. Everytime the fuse on the coil blows, the fuel pump will stay on constantly, no matter what. This is where it gets weird...I notice that it is staying on and turn the key to the off position, and the fuel pump stays on for ~2 seconds AFTER I have turned the key completely off and following the ~2 seconds after the key is off, the fuse on the coil + side blows (I see a flash from the fuse) and the fuel pump turns off immediately.

     

    Now, the first thing that comes to mind is perhaps the relay is stuck/bad? Perhaps something on my relay board has soldered together and arced something? All wire connection seem fine, I have checked continuity of the wires from the coil to the relay board and they seem fine. Any help is appreciated, thank you AGAIN!! :)

     

    Here is my MSQ:

     

    http://www.mediafire.com/?hjnzgyz2jgz

    MSA "Performance" turbo camshafts

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    This will sound a little weird, but the old Schneider cam (260F grind) is a N/A cam. It was installed in my old Turbo Tom built motor (1995) by a local mechanic who I will never use again, but when old_slow_car installed megasquirt, holset hy35, etc, the darn motor made 416 rwhp with a flat power curve to 6500 rpm. Even before we pulled the motor, it was still making 350 rwhp WITH THE WORN OUT CAM. So maybe TimZ is correct to have a Schneider nitrided.

     

    Hey, your motor is what I am modeling mine after! I'm looming for a cam that will give me a 400hp+ number. What is your setup?

    Here we go again...most bizarre problem yet

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Please do us all a favor and everytime you make a change in the msq file repost it so we can all look it. The last msq I see posted in this thread was on Feb 16th, have you changed any setting in the msq since then? Also, maybe put in your signature what basic things are configured on you megasquirt install, do you use a relay board, do you use dropping resistors, low impedance injectors, etc.

     

    Later this weekend, I will hopefully get a datalog including the recommended information sch as the TPS and MAP DOT included in the datalog. As far as the MSQ, I've been using your recommended settings Moby in the sticky.

    MSA "Performance" turbo camshafts

    in Nissan L6 Forum

    Posted

    Hey guys,

     

    Well I am in the process of planning my 400hp HY35 build and know I'm going to need an aftermarket camshaft. Now, I have done zero research as to what lift/overlap/etc etc I need for a 400hp L28ET, but I did stumble across the MSA camshafts on their site. We did order a camshaft for our L24, which ended up being a schneider. My question for you guys is, do you guys have any experience with these cams? Who makes these cams? I have an 82 motor, so I would be ordering one accordingly. Thanks for your help!

    Here we go again...most bizarre problem yet

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    To get the car to idle you should not have any kind of correction or autotune turned on, you should be following the megamanual for tuning to get the engine to start and idle.

     

    That's right. The car idles, but has a hunting/wandering idle, what adjustment do i make to correct this? Adjusting VE tables values does not seem to work. Once I get a stable, consistsnt idle, I would like to enable autotune and datalog a gentle drive and see how it looks and monitor whether I get anymore voltage spikes or true megasquirt resets. Thanks!

    Here we go again...most bizarre problem yet

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    FYI, those "resets" are just communication glitches. If the reset were real, SecL would reset to zero and stay there. A lot of the other odd spikes also seem to be communication related and not really happening, either.

     

    So looking at the two datalogs above, would you conclude I am not expeiencing anything abnormal at this point? Are the inconsistent AFRs a completely different problem? I would assume so, but I think it's a tuning issue, I'll be starting another thread about that, as well this evening.

    Here we go again...most bizarre problem yet

    in MegaSquirt

    Posted

    Did you read the sticky on reset problems yet?

     

    Yes I did, and I went through the entire thread. I'm going to go through it again and see what I can carry over to my car. That aside, I did find that my ground for my dizzy was questionable, so I went ahead and resoldered that connection and datalogged it. Here are the datalogs, the first one is starting it completely cold:

     

    http://www.mediafire.com/file/izz2vinmyye/1-19-10 (1).xls

     

    http://www.mediafire.com/file/dg1kywdey2z/1-19-10 (2).xls

     

    Well, here is the first voltage drop to 7.9v. I will say that I noticed no resets this time just by sitting in the car. Here it is:

     

    9003b7e3816331e5331a85af517512d55g.jpg

     

    Here is a second drop, except this one is a drop down to 8v. Is this a normal behaivor? There seems to be no other variables affected by this voltage drop:

     

    609cac7fa8269b39d32c0205c45a473b5g.jpg

     

    As for the first datalog, those are really the only voltage drops, with 7.9v at the lowest point, is this okay?

     

    On the second datalog is when a reset happens, although I did not notice it by sitting in the car. Here is the first reset/voltage drop:

     

    3ce9823772edd8d08e3238b3d127ca545g.jpg

     

    Does this look normal?

     

    On to the next one. On this one, it isn't a reset, but it is a significant voltage drop. I believe I punched the gas pretty good and fast, but didn't seem to affect the variable there after:

     

    67cbbe5ad1b50eb4eb98303191766d2e5g.jpg

     

    Another one, looks like I hit the gas pretty good. Doesn't look like a reset but just a big voltage drop:

     

    4cbe0bf97369d03f59ec155f750dfa045g.jpg

     

    Let me know what you guys think, maybe I fixed it? My only question is, why are my AFRs so inconsistant? At one point, I locked in the spark advance shown here:

     

    7b1ecc7c539533bb1cdf44436c542bd25g.jpg

     

    Its very weird, maybe the pulse widths are too big? I'm completely guessing here...any help is appreciated fellas, thanks!!!

    HY35 - 350hp

    in Turbo / Supercharger

    Posted

    Here is what I want done:

     

    1. Im having G Pop Shop balance my wheels and would like to rebuild the turbo myself and have the center section ceramic coated as well as the turbine housing. I would also like to have the compressor cleaned up and looking nice as well.

     

    2. I would like that exact setup you have pictured. But, I would want that Tial 38mm wastegate, if you can guarantee I wont have boost creep :) Well, no guarantees, but how much success have you had?

     

    3. Lastly, I would like the manifold ceramic/jet hot coated as well as the downpipe.

     

    So essentially, just as you have pictured. :)

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