evil_datto

Thanks moby. Yeah my injectors are low impedance, I had the dropping resistor stock. I've read a lot so far on the grounding and noise issues. The thing that made me consider filtering it was from reading jacob80's posts showing his datalogs. The battery voltage looked really nasty until he filtered it somehow. Also, I'm using the 3.0 board, so hopefully it does have this amplification thing. Thanks, Scott

Hi all. I've finally decided to start ripping out the old stock stuff and get going with MS. So I have a few questions before I head out to buy the rest of the stuff I'll need. 1 - For dropping resistors to use with the stock N/A injectors, what spec resistors are best? Also, should I use 1 resistor per bank, or 1 resistor per injector? 2 - What size fuse do I need for the main power for MS? 3 - After seeing peoples problems with electrical noise, spikes etc. Should I use a filter on the main power wire for MS? If so, what specs for the filter? *Edit: I read that MSI is able to control electric fans, but the signal needs to be amplified to even be able to trigger a relay. Does MSII still need to have it amplified? Thanks, Scott.

Correct me if I'm wrong, at 14,000rpm each valve is opening & closing like 116 times per second, right?

L20A cams use the same stamping as L2 (A,B,C), as well with no stamp at all.

And you bring this up just as I started shaving my rods Josh, haha. I'm following what you did with yours, but yet to finish the rough grind on each rod. Only actually started a couple days ago. I'm lightening the rods in my L20A, and I have some concern about this, since I was hoping to have a faster & higher revving motor than my L28. So if I'm going to achieve this and avoid snapping the crank, how exactly should I lighten/balance the bottom end?

I'm thinking they're from the original valve seals too... Are you perhaps looking at your new seals which would have the small thin springs? Penny size sounds about right for valve seal.

I've read, I think it was JeffP looked into a liquid filled balancer, but the people making them weren't keen on making ones for the L motor. I think because lack of interest.

Hey Mike, what part of NZ you in? Rip that L20A and drop in an L28 or mix & match for 2.3 IIRC. I have a ton of spare L20A & L28 stuff lying around, give me a PM if you're looking for something. Scott.

Actually... Your definition of professional is more along the lines of 'following & exceeding expectations beyond logical & reasonable boundaries'.

Funny how they just say 'we're just a big family, they're hurt cause there's so much of us'. They clearly raped the system by tricking it into thinking they hadn't voted yet, voting as many times as they had time to do. You had a steady amount of voting from the CD community & hybridz, they had jack all from CD until those guys on their forum decided to totally abuse the voting system.

Yeah thanks moby, I've read through that and I bought a spare CAS signal plate to modify up. But the part I'm unsure on is the wheel type settings to use in the Ignition settings page here: Thanks

Cheers, saved his maps and someone elses maps. Should be able to cobble something together now. Now I just want to make sure the pulley mounted CAS is the same as the Dizzy CAS?

Requesting again for any setups that are close to mine, I don't mind having to tweak on an existing setting file. Or if someone can point me to some existing setups I might have missed. To make it simple, I basically only need full settings for a near stock N/A with spark.. But can't find anyone using spark on N/A. For the spark I need the ignition settings to suit 81zxt components I'm using 2.89 code on MSII 3.0 Thanks, Scott

You should be able to reduce the resolution down to a ratio the same as the native resolution. For example 2000x1500, you could go down to 1000x750. Then you would have larger text, while retaining the correct unstretched view.

Done.

That first one isn't so bad. But I don't get what was wrong with the black ZX?

Yeah, especially in the carb car, there won't be anything if at all you have to splice into. In my case, I think I'll be using the single existing fuel relay (one wire grounded from MS) and for the injectors and whatevever else needs a relay, I'm simply buying single relays & relay holders and mounting them inside near the unit somewhere. I vote go for it

If you were able to get your hands on a dirt cheap EFI Z for the few parts you need and then sell the rest off once you're completed the install, then the nightmare of trying to add in all the EFI stuff wont be so daunting. You have reference to where everything is located and you can see how everything was wired to work originally. It would be a big undertaking - actually basically the same as simply converting from carbs to normal Z EFI really, possibly easier because you don't have to mess around with all of the crap on the intake manifold. I do agree you can add a few failure points, but really if you do it right and do it well you don't have much to worry about. If you basically copy everything someone else has already done (who's setup runs well) you don't have much to worry about (use same parts, mount & wire things similarly). Personally, I think it could be easier if you were to start off using the zx ignition components rather than EDIS. I think it could be easier upgrading from your current z ignition components to say the '82/83 zxt ignition module, coil & dizzy(CAS). I'm actually about to start setting up MSII soon. I'm sending my unassembled unit to my uncle to be soldered together, even though I can solder, he will do much better job which will give me more peace of mind. An assembled unit would be much more ideal if you can afford it, and the stim kit would remove half of your worries since that can tell you if something is wrong on the board side. Go ahead and take the plunge!

An intake & another set of headers don't weight that much & isn't that much more complex than a V engine (Look at the picture I linked to, 300zx pulled it off with twin turbos... even more complex intake). I'm still not seeing your point

V8 has two exhaust manifold, one intake manifold. If this were say an L6 with this idea, it would be two exhaust, two intake. I don't see how that one extra intake (compared to V8) is going to negate anything at all? & "More weight.. more parts and greater complexity.. which means more parts to fail or something to go wrong." It's just the same as a DOHC head, only with 2x intake/exhaust ports... You'd have the extra intake manifold, 2x injectors (no problem there if it's megasquirt) 2x TB's... http://carphotos.cardomain.com/ride_images/1/2656/461/6637730029_large.jpg 300zx's don't seem to have a problem with two intake, tb, (i think some people even use dual map sensors)? Am I just missing something?

Hi guys, I've purchased the stuff and so now I'm looking for settings to start with once I get it all wired up. The car is as follows: MSII 3.0 '80zx N/A Highish compression 10-11:1+ Stock cam (for now) '81zxt ignition components (Power transistor & Crank Angle Sensor on crank pulley) Adjustable FPR Headers 2 1/4" exhaust No O2 sensor for now. I have the sensor, but unable to get to the exhaust shop to get a bung welded on the headers for it at the moment. I've looked through the Map sharing thread but didn't find any N/A's that fit my situation very well. Also didn't see anyone running MSII with the '81zxt CAS & Power Transistor so I don't know what settings to use to run them. Hoping someone can send me their file so I can grab those ignition settings. For the timing map, I can't use anyone's N/A maps because they will be running vac/mech advance, right? And the people with CAS are running timing for turbo. Fuel map just a normal map I guess? Nothing special on the fuel delivery side, just stock N/A 180cc Injectors. Please share any information you think might help me with my setup. Thanks, Scott.

It's not how much power it makes, it's the cool factor.

I'd sell myself for that. I'd do ANYTHING for that head, they can take my car. I wouldn't have a car to use the head on anymore, but I would be able to stare at the head all day long.

Ah, that's good to know. So I'll get the MSII kit, Stim kit & the MS wiring harness. Thanks guys.

OK then, I'll probably get the stim kit. My uncle will be soldering everything together since he's much better than me. For the trigger, I'm going to use the stock crank angle sensor trigger wheel. I read it has to be rotated 72* to provide MS with the correct trigger signals. Shouldn't be too hard. Is making use of the original wiring harness be easy, or would you guys recommend using the MS wiring harness instead? Also for that wiring harness, I don't see a wire for the MAP sensor, should it be there? Thanks for the replies.