BusterZ

If your converting an engine that has already run petroleum based oils long enough to build up deposits, switching to a synthetic 'may ' loosen those deposits causing problems with the engine (bearings, plug passages ... ). Most synthetic oils are very good detergents and will "clean out" residual carbon, etc as you run them. Amsoil and Royal Purple are probably two of the best blends available right now.

If its an Si, it will not have an auto tranny (Si's had close ratio 5 speed only) unless somebody switched it to an auto ?? Orig motor would be D16A6 and it may or may not have rear drums (mine had drums). I like the D16 turbo motor - its different than everybody that did the B16 swap thing and H22 motors are heavy compred to the B and D series motors. A well built D16 will run 300 - 350 Hp on the street reliably (well tuned). I've got a 35000 mi D16 in the garage to build into turbo when I find the next good rust free CRX shell.

Hey John, havent heard from you in awhile. Went to Butler Cruise a palooza a couple years ago and had a ride in your Z (man its nice), Sorry to say I've sold my Fairlady 280Z. I still have plans for in the near future for a V-8 Z. Hope tosee you around. Shoot me an email @ thindman@csonline.net. (PS I live in Parker PA - not so far away. Todd (busterz)

thanks comeandzpa, I'll see what I can do. Hopefully it will not be too long before strating another. Small project to do 1st, new garage. I'm too cramped in the current one and got th e"magic offer" for the car. I know its going to a good home.

Well, I finally broke down and sold the '79 Fairlady. Left on a trailer bound for NC tonight. Sad to see it go but now I can look for another project. Finishing an 84 Mazda RX7 right now (dont yell at me yet). Maybe look at a 1st gen Z car this time (V8 conversion ?). OOps, gotta change my signature to Fairlady "now gone South"

Try http://www.fullsizechevy.com I drive a Chevy too. ('03 Silverado SS now) but I've owned alot of other olders ones too. My favorite was a '65 Nova SS.

bigjim, 2 things 1) most important - that looks REAL good 2) I'm jealous that I dont live where its nice enought to be outside too Keep up the excellent work.

sweet

I bought a '79 Fairlady 280Z that was imported by an Air Force friend into the U.S. in December 1988. Paperwork was handled by A&W Int'l Brokers in Long Beach, CA. Cost him $125 entry fee/ $100 Customs bond/$100 Surety fee. I dont know details on US conversion 'cause I dont have any paperwork for that. Car has DOT glass, seat belt buzzer, cat converter and such. Sometimes I run into him at Christmas. If I do I'll get more details from him.

Yep, spring clips. Mines also a '79 2+2 (Fairlady 280Z) but the rear panels are out of a US 280ZX. They're the same as the J-spec ones were (except for the large pieces of ripped vinyl). Maybe a mid-year change or something There are no screws for the speaker grilles at all.

Just looked at mine, they've been laying on the table downstairs for a year now. Your gonna have to take off the rear panels to get to the speakers. The grilles are held on by little flat metal fasteners pushed over plastic pins on the back of the grille. I'd say if you try to pull them off, you're gonna break the pins off. If I had batteries for the digital camera tonight, I'd post you a pic. I'll get some tomorrow and try to get one up.

42, as far as I can recall. Minds going now, its late, gotta go to bed. zzzzzzzz

Got over 175k on my last turbo car ("86 Chrysler LeBaron GTS), yeah its been awhile since I ran a turbo, but I like 'em. 1)Do not shut down your engine down without allowing the turbo to spool down to idle speed. 2)Pull your ignition coil wire off and crank your engine to re-prime your oil system after draining for oil change. This sends oil around the system and turbo without pushing exhaust gas thru turbine side while its still dry. 3) run synthetic oil after initial break in on rebuild 4) as said in post before, keep the oil return line clean I never rebuilt the turbo and there was still very little play when I sold it. I know it ran another 15k - 20k after I got rid of it but was wrecked then.

Hey Trevor, I've got a '79 Fairlady and have one Nissan key that looks like the one you pictured. Its got the same black around the NISSAN MOTOR as your pic. Also have a key cut from a generic blank thats stamped (ready for this ?) "BLANK MOTOR M239". One of these fits the ignition and the other opens doors/hatch, can't remember which is which right now. It been 2 years since the car was running and will be another 2 years before its ready again.

I have done CO2 blasting on stainless steel pipe at a refinery to prep for chloride resistant coatings. Worked OK, but not as well as traditional 'black beauty'. Used CO2 to eliminate possibility of sparks due to combustible materials in the area. Seems like it should work on undercoating. How's the cost compared to regular blasting ? If this worked, I'd be interested to use on my car (if I ever get that far).

Naa, not older to me, that's still newer than most of my cars. I dont consider them old 'till I can't get parts or fix 'em anymore. $3200 is a good price. Enjoy the ride.

Polarity, very nice. Used to borrow an old girlfriends 944 to drive once in awhile, excellent choice. What year is yours ? If I ever get rid of some other cars (Fairlady, CRX, RX7) I'd like to buy one for myself.

Agree Dave240Z: most German/European cars and motorcycles require "special tools". and when they say special, they really mean it. They look at engineering issues different than the Americans and Japanese do. We try to make things more simple (as a general rule). I hope that the combination of auto mfg's between the 3 areas (US, Asia and Europe) does not increase the need for "special" pullers, etc for us poor working folks.

to all: I haven't been here too long and don't post alot, but I've learned more here than any other car related web site. This is by far the most technical and chuck full of good info place there is. I also own an RX7 and believe me, there is no site for those that compare to this Z car site (I've been looking hard for one and ain't found one yet). I'm prep'ing a '79 Fairlady 280Z for modification (mostly read as tearing it apart) and still am not sure if it will be a V8 or a turbo 6 (when I get that far my wife will be a happier person). I don't want to loose either groups input. Engines are engines and no matter who made them or how many cylinders it has, the goal is to shove more air and fuel in each hole and then get it to all to burn. After that, you do what you can to get as much as the combustion gas out as possible. I see kicking any of these groups off as a mistake and a loss to everyone. (yeah maybe I'm a little selfish here). Heck I just bought a Silverado SS and my kid drives a CRX Si (stock). What ever happens, keep the diversity thats here as a benifit to all.

zxjuiced, this is good, very good. Backend is excellent. I like the hood too.

Hey ON3GO, I dont have a JDM Z but I do have a JDM ZX (1979 280Z 2+2 Fairlady) I could send you some pic's if you'd like. Its still got orig. fender mirrors and a 2 tone interior (red and silver). Only thing is, interior is sort of torn apart right now.

If he'd just loose the 'ball' on the antenna. Then I would say go ahead and finish it.

yeah, what backspace and width ? What color is center ? These look real good ! I like'em.

Checked out link to MJP Eastern Auto (England) in greimann's post here. Anybody actually seen their G-nose adapted to the 280ZX body ? Anybody got pic's of it ? I've emailed them but dont yet have a reply.

Looks like my first step is to get a JTR book. Thanks for all the advice. As my garage gets completed (this fall) and I move forward on this project, I'll keep everyone posted.