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I've just about completed back halving my 75 280Z i'm going with a 2000 Mustang rear disk brake setup (i currently have a toyota 4x4 front brake setup). Can anyone tell me if the stock 75 master cylinder and booster will be ok or will it require modifications/upgrading. thanks Curtis

although you never said when you plan on hitting the Nitrous i'd save some cash for rear end parts just in case. Don't get too caught up with just fuel pressure volume is also very important especially if you are not running a separate line and pump for the Nitrous system.

I'm doing a solid axle conversion currently on my 280Z. Having a stock rear end running in the 10s is great. But snapping U joints and side axles like candy and busting up those indestructable R200 gets sicking after a while. 30 year old metal can only last for so long even with 500 crank HP and pushing low 1.5 60 fts. Spend the cash and time do it right. For a "hybrid" website there sure are alot of people here promoting stock parts. I'll post up some pictures soon and maybe alittle write up. Good luck with your project Curtis

ok cool add 70 lbs for a dana that brings it to 220 still lighter than the complete stock suspension setup.

I need to know the weight of a dana 60 rear end mine will be 48 inches but i just would like to have an estimate to go by

I think a problem with the kit will be that its designed for standard length rod bars and without cutting to make it shorter the high point on the frame where the shock mounts attach will be too far back....i think???

I decided to install a solid rear axle in my car. So i cut the back out of it before I changed my mind. Work is progressing well but now its decision time I was planning on getting a Ford 9 inch setup But i can get my hands on a used Dana already setup for 4 link and the exact width that I need. It will probably save me $1000 going this route. Other than the 70 lbs extra weight its going to add to the car are there any other negatives that I should know about. And if anyone's got any pictures of a 4 link setup for a Z car i'd love to see them. I test fitted first with 28 12.5 ET streets but I think 30 13.5 would give me better ground clearance ? Advice Please... Thanks Curtis

Crazy Canadians ... car had a twin turbo SBC last year heres another run with wheelie bars

Now come on guys you can't back half a car that cheap. I'm not that interested in going the used parts routeebay. The cheapest Moser 9 inch with a spool and Park brakes is closer to $3000. The rear end isn't much good with wheels and tires $800-$1000 4 link kit rod ends adjustable coil overs wheel tubs drive shaft etc etc etc really can't see me doing it for less than 5

A 12 sec car is only fast enough when your running 13s ...been there done that

I know that you can make 9 and 10 second passes but I wonder HOW MANY passes will 30 year old R200 and stubs make before they go bang. This year i made about 50 11 second passes and destroyed 2 R200 and 3 side axles Its a toss up between $1000 for CVs and hope for the best and $6000 for a killer 9 inch 4 link setup and never having to worry again.......$$$$

Guys i'm seriously considering going to a ford 9 inch setup. I'm afraid that even with CVs i'll only end up breaking stub axles (i'm running 10.9-11.0 with low 1.5 60fts No transbrake). My question is for anyone running 10s or faster with CVs What else are you breaking and how many passes are you making in the run of a year?? thanks Curtis

My last weekend at the Track with Stock halfshafts. Made 3 passes with low 1.5 60 foots before i busted a u joint and spoiled a half shaft replaced the half shaft went again and this time busted 2 u joints and cracked a half shaft. I'm not convinced CVs are the way to go i'll still be stuck with a R200 and stock stub axles with way too many 10 second passes on them. Time to start researching a ford 9 inch back half

OH YA GOT MY 10...... 10.998 at 122mph 1.567 60 ft backed up with a 10.927 at 122mph 1.520 60 ft my previous best was actually a 11.070 at 121mph theres what i done... installed electric water pump removed alternator belt removed 90 lbs (NOS system, stereo, wiper motor few other odds and ends quart (or liter as we say in Canada) lower on oil reduced tire pressure to 15 psi tighten chain on front end shallow staged and finally said a small prayer to the Z gods. Thanks to all you guys for the tips NEXT RACE GOAL 9.999 on NOS Curtis

Did you get a time ???

i'm currently back to 3.55 gears (crossing the line at 6200). I beat my 3.90 (crossing the line at 6800) to pieces early this season. I was running low 11.3s with that gear set but i made a few other small changes when i went to 3.55 (carb spacer and shimmed up the back of the hood 1 inch to release air. I think 3.70 would be the ideal gear. I will be removing the alternator belt. Not sure if i'm going to have time to switch the fuel pump or not.

Kevin Thanks for the post I agree with you 100% (well maybe 95%). The motor is what it is. It had a smaller cam at one point and it liked the new one better. For the rest of this season i'm focused on getting that 10 without changing anything in the motor and once i do the NOS is going back on and i'll start lowering my 10.30 NOS pass. Curtis

The 131 pass on NOS wasn't on NOS of the line Car normally runs 11.2 @ 120 MPH. Last race weekend i had a 11.007@122 and 11.05@123 air was cold and there was a tail wind. 10.75:1 compression, 750DP Holley Carb Team G dome with 1 inch pheloic spacer. Eldebrock Performer RPM Aluminum heads 64CC and 170 runners well ported. full length 1 3/4 hedman headers bolted directly to 3 inch sonic turbo mufflers with no tail pipes

Guys thanks for the posts some real good ideas i realize i won't need much but why stop at a 10.99. John at JNJracing take a look at the picture of my launch posted above do you think that is too much rear squat if so i'll add another round of rubber in the rear springs? Jap Tin i'd forgotten about shallow staging a few inches head start can't hurt either I think i can swing something of a cold air intake to the carb. I normally race with no breather so i'm not sure how that will all work out. i'm also considering a trip to the dyno just to make sure i'm shifting at the optimum RPM. Anyone know how many (if any) HP can be gained by switching from a mechanical to electric fuel pump? Any other ideas i'm racing saturday????

All done except passenger seat and fiberglass hood car is 2750 lbs with driver so i've shaved a few lbs already.. the 10.99 Z "wanna be"........

Thanks John what do you think about removing the 2 covers from the hood to increase air flow out of the engine bay? I've got to stick to mufflers and ET streets to get street car bragging rights I'm running 40 degrees of timing now on 110 octane race fuel currently running a comp cams extreme solid lifter cam 244/254 .520/ .540 lift 110 LSA. Don't think i really want to change any engine internals. Saving the $$$ for a stroked 400. I got the 11.007 with 3.55 gears at 6200 rpm which surprised me alittle i had 3.90 which i was crossing the line at 6800.

oops time to update my signiture and sorry my mistake it meant to say i'd like to get a 10.999 or better. A 10 Flat would be impossible.

Hey Guys I'm currently stuck at an 11.008 (excellent air day with slight tail wind) in full street trim i want to get a 10 sec pass on the motor. Motor itself is tuned to the max so i need to do some little things to get the number so far i've.. 1. installed electric water pump 2. removed most of the NOS system and stereo (around 50lbs) i'm considering... 1. switching over to the NOS electric fuel pump (holley blue) vs the motor driven Carter Street strip pump. 2. removing the battery and washer pump covers of the car to let more air out from under the hood however i'm not sure if this will cause a negative aerodynamic effect 3. decreasing front liftrear squat even more by tightening chains and adding more spring rubber i'm currently 60 footing with mid to high 1.5s 4. decreasing rear tire pressure (ET street radials) from 18 to 16 PSI 5. Removing whatever else i can from the car without making it look to much like a race car maybe wiper motor assembly, rear window struts, stock seat belts smaller battery etc etc any advice??? thanks Curtis

Jon thanks for the post. to clarify i had a dual stage cheater system but planning on only using the same amount of nitrous but changing the plate to the big shot which has a something like double the number of holes in the spray bars. I've heard that the extra holes make more HP because of the better flow. I have considered a progressive controller to save rear end parts if nothing else. How well to they work? I think that if you can't get the maximum HP out of the system within the first 2-3 your really not going to gain much in the ET after that. I'm not sure my car can handle any more than 210 without breaking the tires free going down the track anyway

A friend let me borrow his Big Shot Nitrous Kit so along with mine i now have a Big Shot plate running dual stage 125 of the throttle then switching to 180 maybe 210 if i can hook. Question 1 Is the Big shot plate really that much better than the cheater plate using the same size jets. Question 2 with my old power shot solenoids kicking around i was going to hook it up for purging and that got me thinking everybody purges that nice cold NOS into the air why not set in up to spray under the runners the dome (team G) as long as it wasn't getting sucked into the carb wouldn't this have a cooling effect on the dome and carb ??????