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ya i have these heads they work well for motor that will be running at less than 6500. Most headers designed for straight plugs WILL NOT work these angle plug heads (I made my own Heddman Weldups)

Comp and Edelbrock tech support wasn't the greatest guess i called on bad day I have a 3500 stall converter it will "hold" the car to about 2700 rpm at the line. I'm running stock gears but i have 2 different tire combos and here is where it gets interesting (Both tested on same days no other changes).. BFG RAdial TA 245/50/14 1.9 60 ft 115 mph 11.9 ET @6500 RPM BFG Drag Radial 235/60/25 (2 inches taller)1.7 60 ft 114 mph 11.8 ET @ 5500 I think that the taller tires are costing me big time at the other end of the track i should be seeing better ET gains from a 2/10th lower 60ft i need more gearing but with 180 NOS dual stage picks up the RPM and gains me a full second down to 10.8 so instead of upping the gears and causing the car to over rev i'd like to select a better cam to help the engine operate more efficently.

I have edelbrock performer rpm Aluminum heads 64CC/170CC 750 Holley DP carb Team G intake 355 SBC 10.75 compression. What would be the best solid lifter cam (for HP) for this combination. I'm mostly interested in drag racing and not worried about street performance to much. I know the heads are small but around about what lift and duration would work with this combo. Expected rpm range will be 2500-6800MAX. I now jack about cams i'm currently running a 30 year old GM "4O" solid lifter but i'm being told to get a new technology cam.

thanks dr.

I realize the heads are too small but i'd like to get a cam that will take them to the max HP I admit that i don't know Jack Shi.. about cams but i think that a solid roller has to be better than the cam i'm running now i just got to find the right one. I don't mind spending $1000 + on a cam and matched valve train parts as long as i get 2/10ths (or more) to show for it at the end of the 1/4 mile. Edelbrock Heads are spec. for 1500 to 6500 RPM range and a max lift of .570 so a lower duration cam would be better maybe Comp Cams XR 274 2200-6200 236/242@50 564/570 lift LSA 110 or XR 280 2500-6500 242/248@50 570/576 lift LSA 110 If i go any lower than this i'll be out of the rpm range or should i be more concerned with the duration and less with the stated rpm range of the cams. Any Advice you guys can give would be great.

thanks guys. I contacted Edelbrock concerning the flow of these heads, max cam etc. Tech. support from those guys is a joke just as well I had asked my mother.

I'm considering upgrading to a solid roller cam from a GM solid lifter "40" cam RPM 4200 - 7200; 257/269 @.050 and the valve lift is .493"/.512 OLD TECHNOLOGY I'M TOLD. Anyway motor specs are 10.75 Comp. Edelbrock Performer RPM Heads 170/64CC. 750 Holley DP. 3.55 Gears BF Drag Radials 26 inches tall 350 Auto Tranny with 3500 Stall Car is running 11.9 on motor and 10.8 on 180 HP NOS. the cam i'm considering is a Comp Extreme Energy Solid Roller XR286 248 254 duration and .576 .582 lift Comp Cams recommended i go with the next cam size up which seemed like alot. The Car is used as much at the drag strip as on the road i usually only cruise maybe twice a week. I'm not worried about adjusting rockers. So the Questions Is this still to much cam for these heads?. Should i be concerned with excessive valve train wear with such a high lift Cam ? How much gain in HP or ET might i expect with this cam Is the roller cam even worth it should i just get a regular cam Thanks Curtis

thanks

so its possible to swap the whole center ?

Is it possible swap a gear set (3.90) from a ZX into a 1975 R200. Other than changing tire height are there any other cheap ways to increase the gear ratio from 3.54 to 3.9 or higher ?

Would someone pls post the Part numbers for the Spicer and/or Brute Force Neapco U Joint for the R200 Setup. I need something quick. Thanks

Will MT ET Street 26X10.5X15 on a 7inch Weld Drag Lite fit on a 75Z with Stock Suspension tires will only be used at the drag. Not sure what the back spacing is but there is 4 inches from the backside of the center hub to the lip of the rim Thanks

Can i remove the stock transistor ignition unit from a 1975 280Z (V8 with an autometer tach) it currently has only two wires connected Black to ground and White which only seems to go to a test plug. Also anybody know what the single red wire that enters the back of the speedometer through a rubber grommet is for ?

Don't be fooled by a casting number on a block if its a rebuild the block can be from a 350 but its the crank and pistons that make it a 327.

what brand of tires did you pull a 1.8 with?

Please let me know if you find any difference with the NGK i have the same heads as you and plan to switch to FR4s in the spring myself

The correct cross reference for a Champion RC12YC to NGK is FR4 (Washer on sparkplug). TR5 IS A COLDER PLUG AND ALSO A TAPER SEAT TYPE . If you want a colder plug you should really use the FR5. with NGK higher number means colder plug

Why would you use a TR5 (Taper Seat and colder)plug isn't the FR4 (Gasket Seat )the correct replacement for a Champion RC12YC ?

short headers will fit straight plugs better, some shorties will not fit angle plug headers without serious mods. be carefull

THANK YOU

the 75 R200 halfshalfs are not equal length right??? so which side does the longer one go on??? thanks

why 1 5/8 Block Huggers ? i had them on my Z upgraded to 1 3/4 Hedman weldups full lenght what a difference. The gains in mid and top end were great. Bottom end was not an issue.

I'm wondering if any of you V8ers have weighed your cars My 75 280Z SBC 350 350 Auto Tranny weighs in at 2740 lbs How does this compare ???

Anybody have any experience running cheater slicks (ET Streets or BF Goodrich drag radials) on a stock R200 i'm currently running 12.4s 2.0 60ft with a 355 chevy, auto, and 24550R14 street tires i need traction will the drivetrain stand up to slicks or should i start lookin for rear end parts now ? Curtis