pshepard327ci

Perfect, that looks much nicer. I didnt even know those existed. Thanks, saved me from doing something stupid.

Will that be able to hold over time with just a thread or two tapped in that hole, its not very think sheet metal. That fix sounds perfect if it was thicker material, its just that box sub frame are that the rear diff front cross member bolts to. Just making sure before buying a $75 tool. Here is a pic of the bolt. Borrowed from Z-Tech Tips:

I just finished bolting up my r200 rear-end with all new bushing and i had to use some significant prying to get the rear cross member to line up with the bolt holes. When i went to put the final outside bolt on the cross member the bolt just went all the way in, it appears the nut that was welded on the backside was snapped off or something. Any ideas on how to fix that? The only think i can think of is cutting the rear frame and welding another nut there, that doesn't sound like any fun. Maybe tap the hole for threads?

I have also been interested in seeing if anyone has used these. I guess the advised install would be to bolt them up using the flange and then fiberglass them to the body? I was envisioning having them installed so there would be no seam.

Amazing job on the car, i have always had a soft spot for a mean looking orange and black combination on these cars and you pulled it off pretty close to what i have envisioned mine one day looking like.

Must be a sign from above, i just came in from outside sanding spots that look like they will need extra work and i sanded through the bondo on the drivers/side dogleg and barely hit any metal before a good couple fist fulls of sand like material came pouring out like an hourglass. I guess i will be ordering the doglegs also. Anyone is Houston wanna share there talent at metal work, or have some of these body pieces hanging around!?!? I offer cold beers and bbq!! I will give it a try to make that part, i have read on metalmeet about how to go about shaping it so i guess i gotta start somewhere.

I found this part through tabco, is this the section i would need behind the rear tire? "Rear Quarter Lower Rear Section 10H: 167 52 L-R 39.95" Is there somewhere that sells that read valence area, but i might be able to mend that area with a patch or two, its the rounded part i dont think i can do very well.

Question number two, still on rust topic... What gauge sheet should i use to patch this. I know this is a main problem area and i removed the reinforcement plate and it doesn't look bad at all inside, so do i just get some 20g and weld it over after I spray some primer in there, or go with 18g? Right now i have 22g that i used for a hatch repair and probably will use it on a small rust spot on fender. Unless this sounds like a bad idea on the exterior panels.

I am in the process of tearing down my 70 240z and also finding lots of hidden treasures that im sure most people who have made this journey before me have also found. Well the rear of the z was already shaved when i purchased it and i want to keep it that way. I am not the best sheet metal fabricator but am willing to try anything. What are you guys suggestions on repairing this. I have done a patch panel already and i think it went pretty good, but this rounded corner seems hard. I thought i saw a pre-made patch that was available but i dont know if i can get both of these, the rear bottom part of quarter behind the rear wheel and the valance is the back. Also if you look at the first pic is that bronze solder the PO used to fix/attach something?

I ordered the 3830711 GM Gasket, .026 compressed through http://www.superchevyperformance.com/Default.asp, not to bad on price, turned out cheaper than the Victor Reinz for the same thickness. I dont need to be worried about the GM saying bore size 4.00" when i have a 30 over block? Thanks again Peter for pointing me in right direction.

I checked it out and i think i would have to use the 1134, i dont have ls1 heads, there 462 camel humps. I did find a site with the GM gasket and might try to order that this evening. How does the bore size of the gasket affect anything. Am i looking for >4.030 or would the 4.0 bore like the GM one work fine?

Pyro, when selecting the head gasket do i just want to take the .040 - .016(piston below deck) = .024 So i should be looking for a head gasket around that compressed thickness? I know that i want to get as close to that .038-.04 number as possible. Is that the correct way to figure it out and/or what else can i check before moving forward.

Well i think he gave me a pretty good deal, $80 out the door. He is going to check the height and install them for me (just the outer spring). He replied to that with "man you have been doing some research!" Thanks again and will definitely snap some pics along the way.

Comp Cams #249-986-16 # Dual Valve SpringsOuter inside diameter: 1.070" # Inner inside diameter: .697" # Seat load: 132lbs @1.750'' # Open load: 293lbs @1.250'' # Coil bind: 1.150'' # Rate: 322lbs/in # With damper # 16 per package I think i messed up on getting these with kit or i didnt get all the work needed done on these heads. The springs are larger than the seats on the heads. How much of an expense is that to get machined or should i look at getting a smaller diameter spring. I imagine i need the size comp cams suggests and sent me but im praying its not a several hundred dollar job.

In regards to the Vortec heads, i decided to go with the 462's about 5 years ago and did some port and polishing on them and also had my machine shop touch them up and do the studs and pushrod elongating and valve seats. I probably good have used that money and gone out and got a set of real nice AFR's but this is what i have and it leaves room for a "seat of my pants" improvement down the road. I was thinking 650 or 700 for the carb. I haven't gotten to that point yet. I am installing the cam and heads tomorrow and i will do as Pyro suggested and just install the outer spring for break-in. Do i remove the inner as well as the dampener(i think thats the other part between the inner and outer is?) and just install the outer spring?

Thanks for all the suggestions and help. I decided to go with the XS274 kit from comp cams. Also went with the Pro Magnum roller rockers. Had one more question regarding assembling the valvetrain and such, should i be worried about installing cam and everything several months before i will be able to fire it up. I will use the correct cam assembly lube and i used a heavy weight oil on piston rings. Also have been using royal purple assembly lube for everything else. If i plan on following the correct oil prime and break-in procedures will i be ok installing the cam now and wrapping the engine up until im ready for it? Thanks for your help!

Thanks for all you guys help. I think i am really liking the 282s but will definitely check and compare the xs274 and the 30-30. I am leaning more towards manual now but thats several months away and depends how much either one will cost. I will need to re-read the jtr manual, this project has been a long time coming. Thanks again, and i will most definitely have more questions down the road. Searching first of course!! UPDATE: Ordered my parts yesterday evening, hopefully no wrong parts: ARP-134-7104 ROCKER ARM STUDS CCA-1301-16 ROCKER ARMS RLLR 1.52 3/8 SBC CCA-4808-8 GUIDE PLATES SBC 5/16"PUSHROD PRO-66789 PUSH ROD CHECKER CCA-K12-677-4 CAM KIT

I worked over the heads pretty well and also had my machine shop work them some more so hoping they flow as good as they can. But i will definitely be happy with mid-high 12's that is a great starting point and around were i expected it to be. Do you by chance have the model of the dual pattern cam you suggested so i can take a look and compare. I think the 282s will do fairly well but if the dual pattern takes better advantage of my setup then it sounds like a better fit. As far as the RPM intake do you think that will be able to handle the higher rpm, im not going insane but wanted to be able to take it to 7-7.5k or so if i am feeling ballsy.

I am not sure what rear gear i have now, but i will be swapping eventually to close to 3.7 or so. I originally wanted to run auto but i figure it may be wiser to run manual so i dont need a huge torque converter. Shorty headers to probably 2.5 dual exhaust. I havent decided on intake, either victor jr. or the air gap dual plane. Carb will be a demon 750 or smaller if i dont need that much. That sounds better to be compression wise. I think the heads have been machined already, but may be something else that will have to be done. Overall does that came look like a good match. I do want solid mechanical so that would be one of my requests.