pshepard327ci

I am finally to the stage of the build were i need to get all the valve train components and obviously this is a very big deal. This is going to be a street/strip car, its a 240z and i would rather it be close to extreme than close to tame. I have: 69 4bolt 350 block 30over Large journal 327 steel crank. H beam Cat Rods 5.7 KB Hyper dome pistons (1 cc dome) kb157.30 sealed power rings gapped for the hypers Double hump heads completely reworked - 2.02/1.6 64cc with rocker studs tapped. I am planning on going with the comp cams 282solid mechanical kit (CCA-K12-223-4), and comp pro magnum roller rockers(CCA-1301-16). Are these the correct studs for those?(ARP-134-7101) or do i need the longer ones? I tried the best i could to calc my compression ration out and im at around 10.5. I measure the piston to deck and i am at about .016. I am all about some suggestions on where to go, i really want a fun crazy car to drive, and this is my first engine build so have the usual second guessing myself.

Title says it all!!!! Crazy

My 70 240z with unilite dist. and promaster coil is not getting spark. I do have the ballast resistor and just ordered a new one online to see if that was the problem(much smaller than one that it came with). The car has not ran in a year since i put the original l24 back in. i tested my module and it was bad and smelled fried before tested, so ordered a new one of those thinking that as the problem. After hooking up per instructions, when cranking no spark from coil wire to ground and the ballast resistor begins to smoke and is pretty hot. I have it grounded correctly and wired 12v one side and then to + coil other side. I have searchd around for ways to test my coil and when it was hooked up and in run position i grounded the - on coil an still no spark. I am thinking my coil may have also bit the dust. Is there a way i can verify this with some mulitmeter tests. Someone please help me figure out what is going on. If someone could help me out I miss my car!!!

hey, im in southwest right near sugarland. It would definetly be sweet to meet up and check out yalls cars, and maybe get some help so i can get those white knuckles from gripping steering wheel so hard

man i got almost all of it done and now no start, im sure its something dumb that will make me look like an idiot, but oh well i wanna drive my car again so bad. Im wondering why i still am not getting oil pressure, is it possible for the pickup to break or something in the pan, who knows. Another reason to meet up is so i can get to know some other z owners around here.

Hey all, i have finally decided i can not get this project complete by myslef, i was wondering if anyone know a good shop in houston area that specalizes in nissans, that i could take my 240 there to get working. Or if anyone on here wants to help me out with this in the area ill be willing to compensate(beer food), and we can set something up. Thanks, peter

awsome, thanks for the info jmortensen, thats really what i wanted to hear. ill take it off and do that this monday. Just a quick question what is the correct size of the bolt on dampner, that i would use to manually turn motor over, ive checked all mine dont think i have it, if anyone knows of the top of there head. thanks again, hope that works!!!

another quick question, is the oil pump in my l24 the same as the l28, just a shot in the dark to give me a chance in not having to buy stuff.

There is no oil what so ever coming out of the oil hole on camshaft, i hope grayzee is right because i dont want to have to keep replacing parts. the motor came out of a manual i believe, when i put the flywheel on i had to spacer on it or anything. and that scraping noise only happens after i stop cranking or after it runs for half second then stops, might be something else but it still scares me.

ok, so i got the battery charged and it wants to start just doesnt. I have no clue why it doesnt start, but im thinking some dumb wire or something not hooked up, maybe a ground or something. on a side note i was beginning to hear some wierd scraping kind of noise right after i tried to start it. i was thinking oil so for the hell of it i pulled off the oil line to turbo and no oil flowing while cranking... me thinks no good , so i pull the valve cover off and same thing no fresh oil being circulated. There is 5 qts of oil in the pan, and the dip stick reads that as well, how much pain am i going to deal with fixing pump. im about to put the l24 back in because i could drive the car and it was fun, this is not drivable and far from fun. any ideas about oil problem. Any houston area Z guys want some free beer in exchange for free labor , thanks peter

they are the stock injectors for the '83 280zxt, but not a stupid question, ive made so many mistakes on this project , nothing is stupid.

ok, i will get that battery charged immediatly, about the injectors they are the shearco ones i purchased from a guy on this board, there was some dirty fuel in the tank that i found out about after installing them and running. That was when it was running super rich for a couple seconds. I really dont wanna have to take that rail off again, but i guess thats the next step after battery and checing all connection over. thanks for all the help i really appreciate it. if anyone else has any ideas throw them my way!! peter

Hey all, i got another question for you guys. i recently swapped a 83' l28et into my 240. i got all the wiring done i believe everything is on i believe. i get spark and the injectors click. i tried starting in about a month ago and it ran for about 6-8 seconds. i was told to check fuel pressure i put on a guage and it was at like 60psi. so i checked the fpr and it was bad so i got a new stock unit, installed and pressure stays at 36 or so. but now it doesnt run at all. I dont have some things hooked up im just trying to get it to idle that way i know everything works so i can permantly hookup everything. why would it run at such a high pressure but not at correct pressure. After it wouldnt start when i corrected the pressure i pulled the plugs and they were dirty, real dirty, i cleaned them up to new finish with some contact cleaner. still nothing. but my battery is barely able to turn the starter. Any idea on what might keep it from starting. the only things that arent hooked up are the oil pressure sending unit and the Ox-sensor, that i know off. Would the battery being so low not allow it to run? any help would be awsome. thanks for your time. Peter

ok, so i figured out the timing problem, now when i attempt to start it, it starts for sec or two and then dies. if i let the fuel pump run for about 5 sec before i start again it will run for a little longer, but if i imediatly try to restart it will barely turn over for about half a second. is this most probably fuel pressure, if so is the pump the only reason for this, or could it be something else. i dont have intake hooked up at all but the afm is plugged in, and the o2 sensor and downpipe are off the car not plugged in, im just trying to get it to idle.

ok, so i went ahead and checked the timing by puting finger in plug#1 and turned motor till compression, and then looked at ditributor rotor and it was pointing pretty close to the #1 plug wire. then i checked the timing thing on the block and it is at the number 20, now im not sure where this motor is from but there is a marking on the balancer pulley and that is what is at 20 on timing tab. isnt this supposed to be at zero at tdc on cylinder one. thnaks in advance for helping. feel like im getting closer to the problem.

no the motor has not started yet. i got it from a guy at the beginning of summer said just had bad turbo, replaced that now running into problems. im getting spark and 12v at coil, im gonna try to mess with distributer but dont know if thats the problem, it just doesnt smell like a motor missing, no smell of gas just exhaust, a lean smelling exhaust. any thing else

i didnt mess with the cam, ill try and mess with the distro. i didnt touch it but who knows if it was turned off or something. anything else to check!!!

ok, so i have gotten my new injectors, i got them all hooked up, and it comes close to starting just makes lot of popping noices like only a couple cylinders are firing, or not in right order. i checked and rechecked firing order and that stuff. if any one can maybe give me some things to check over id greatly appreciate it. its a '83 280zxt. if need any extra info just ask. thanks peter

man problems like that fun!!!(kidding) my z is collecting dust in parents garage!!! Maybe when i get mine running ill seeya on westheimer or in baytown!! post some pics

Brad-Man you have PM!!

i called sherco auto and they dont have any of the injectors in stock, does anyone have and stock injectors for sale. im going to buy the jsk fuel rail, just need some injectors because mine are no go it appears. thanks

i havent tested the clips....hmmm, what should they read if they are working correctly. i will check the sherco injectors to. thanks what about the fuel rail is it worth it for me to go ahead and swap in the nicer new aftermarket rail

ok so i have finally gotten to the point were after this it will start. i pulled out my rail and tried to start the car and only one injector was spitting fuel. what should i do first, and if i need new injectors i just want some stock style to get car running and on road. i was also thinking about getting one of those fuel rail some of those guys make JSK or another. are those a real easy bolt on or what is involved in swaping that. thanks for the help. ps. for 240zt with 83 turbo motor

its just a used motor bought from a guy, it passed compression test and that all i really know. just wanted something fun to mess with. ill check injectors and pick up a fuel pressure guage and check that out

ok, another quick question. I got it to try to start, but something isnt right yet, if i crank it for about 5 seconds it will pop like once maybe twice like one cylinder is firing or something. i went back and checked firing order, pretty sure that right. i can smell a little bit of gas but not a lot at the downpipe. What is the easiest way to test the injectors to see if they are all firing. thanks again in advance, so close...