Soundmasterg

I was able to find some '82-'83 Swastika 15 inch rims to use and they fit fine over the Modern Motorsports setup. I doubt if any 14 inch rim would fit over his rear brake conversion though. Now on to the exhaust, wipers, lights, etc. Greg

Glad you found something that worked out, and a local Zed shop too. I may have to check them out meself if I get out that-away. greg

Ok, here you go. I've known of the guy for awhile and have seen and heard jobs he has done. He can do customs or install prebuilt stuff for you and does top notch work. I haven't taken anything to him personally yet because I haven't needed to but I plan to take my 240Z to him, and later my Volvo 1800S once I get it back on the road. hope that helps! Greg Hortnagl Auto Repair & Muffler Shop 1585 Southeast River Road Suite C Hillsboro, OR (503) 640-9229

There is a guy named Hortenagle (sp) in Hillsboro that is the best and is really honest and up front. He's close to the Royal Moore Buick dealer in SE Hillsboro. I'll see if I can get a number for you later tonight. I plan to take my Zed to him once I get some $$ for the exhaust. Greg

I did the rear disc brake conversion today, and put new stock parts on the front for now. The stock 240Z rims do not fit over the rear brake setup. These are the 14 inch rims with the ugly press in hubcaps that the Z came with originally, and they hit the caliper. Too bad I don't have your 260Z rims! So anyone in the Portland, Oregon area have some cheap 15 inch rims that will fit a Z? I need to find some ASAP. I don't care about condition as long as they will fit the 240Z 4 bolt pattern and the tires mounted to them will hold air. (i.e. wheel not bent) Greg

Yah, I hear you. MSA has nice stuff but they're quite spendy on a lot of it. They could probably sell more if they would lower their pricing just a tad. The thing with my Z is that it was sitting under cover for 20 years and rats were chewing stuff in the car, so with all the electrical issues it is having, I want to start with a fresh fuse block so I can rule that out as a problem. I plan to do the headlight and parking light harnesses too. I have to do an alternator too, and have the 105 amp one on the way. It runs great though...only 83,000 original miles. If I get the electrical issues fixed and do the brake conversion and get some shocks on it, it should be good to go. Greg

Yah, with these stickys they get so long it is hard to follow sometimes. From what I could see after reading it, he was recommending the '91 Civic motor, and so I went and found a '91 Civic motor only to find it was the spider type. I decided to post a picture of the spider type as being the incorrect one so others may not get the wrong one like I did. After looking around at the wrecking yard, I found one out of a 1990 Accord that looked like the picture that he posted and I wanted to let others know that it would work. Greg

The marker lights failed last night again, so I decided to just get a new fuse block and I'm going with the new harness for the head lights and the marker lights. I don't have dash lights or interior lights at all even though the fuse reads ok and has the voltages in the correct place. That should solve the issues hopefully. If not, at least I'm starting with something that isn't 30+ years old that rats may have chewed up. Gotta do an alternator upgrade too as the alternator failed last night. I do amp work as a hobby so I've got soldering covered. Thanks though! Greg

Just an update. The switch was working fine and the problem was in the connector coming out of the fuse block for the green/white wire. It was allowing only a partial voltage (about 8 volts) to the marker lights section of the switch instead of the full 12v and that wasn't enough to light up the lights. I wiggled the connector around coming out of the fuse block and it works now. Hopefully it doesn't stop working when I hit a bump! Greg

I found what I believe is the correct motor on a 1990 Accord. I'll know for sure in a couple weeks when I get around to trying to hook it up. I looked at several other 1990 Accords and they had the same motor and it is in the same place on the car. The spider ones mount to the firewall behind the engine, but the correct motor mounts on the top underneath a black plastic cover that goes across the front of the car and is just behind the firewall. Hope that helps anyone who will be looking for one. Greg

Your primer on how the headlight system works was very helpful. I also found something somewhere that had pictures and broke down how to take the switch apart and clean the oxidation inside it that crops up because of the circuit design, which I've attached to this post. The headlights work now. The thing I still need to figure out is why the marker lights aren't working. If you look at the switch and the wires on the top, The white/red is hot all the time. The red becomes hot when the headlight switch is turned on, and this makes the headlights work. The other side of the switch has a green/blue wire and a green/white wire. When the switch is off, the green/white wire is hot. If you move the switch to either of the on positions, the green/white goes to 0 volts, but if a jumper is placed over to the headlight side of the switch, then the marker lights will work and that will read 12 volts. I'm almost wondering if the middle contact which is where the green/blue is hooked to is grounding out through the board material or something and isn't supposed to. Does anyone have any idea how this is supposed to work, or why it isn't working correctly? For the wipers, I'll be doing the Honda motor mod as mine works very slowly with help. I fixed the blinkers by taking the blinker switch off and spraying contact cleaner inside and working it back and forth. Thanks, Greg Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Here is a picture of the incorrect motor. I got it off a 1991 Honda Civic, so I'm off to the wrecking yard to see if I can find the correct one. Greg

Hey thanks! Thats great info. I'm waiting for parts for the rear conversion right now. Once I've got that done, I'll have to see where funds are and get the fronts also. Greg

Hey thanks a lot! Thats really helpful!! I hope to take a look at the wiring later this week and your advice will come in handy. Still will need to figure out the wipers and blinkers too.....I'm guessing a rat chewed the wiring offhand but we'll see. greg

I'm trying to fix my non-working headlights and wanted to see if there are any common issues with the Z cars that I should look at first before I delve into it. The car is a '72 240Z that was sitting for 20 years and there were mice in the car. I do see that the wire for the antenna was chewed through a bit, even though it still works. I figure maybe some other wires are chewed up perhaps? I do have the proper voltage at the fuse panel.....anything else to check before I start to trace wires? Thanks! greg

I wanted to go with the vented rotors when I do this conversion. For now, I decided to go with stock since I need it up and driving quickly so I can fix another car that is falling apart and is my only transportation right now, and I don't have the money to get any wheels. I am curious if the S128 calipers will fit under the stock rims anyway, and I'm sure other people might want to know too so if you get a chance to see if that is indeed the case, I'm sure others besides me would like to know. I'll take a look at your brake upgrade ideas on the link you posted. greg

Thanks for the reply. Yah...that is what I was thinking.....I just didn't want to spend the money on stock brakes only to upgrade later. If the upgrade brakes would fit on the stock rims I'd do it though. Realistically though it will probably be a couple years until I get into modding the Z since I have a Volvo 1800S project ahead of it, so its probably best if I just make it driveable for now. greg

If I go with the S12+8 vented fronts, and the 240SZ rear setup, will these fit under the stock steel rims or do I need custom aftermarket rims of some sort? The reason I'm asking is because I've got a '72 240Z that was sitting for 20 years and all the brake parts should be changed. I'd like to only do a conversion once, but I don't have the dough to get some nice rims yet and will have to stick with the stock ones for now. Another option could be switching to the 5 lug hub setup and finding some junkyard rims to fit that setup. Or I can just go with stock replacements for now and spring for the brake conversion when I'm ready to buy some nice wheels. Any suggestions or comments? Greg

Hello, I'm sure this has been asked a lot and is available by search, but I haven't been able to find it. I've got a '72 240Z and I'm trying to figure out when exactly it was made. The door plate is missing from what i can tell, and the VIN is HLS30-87974. Since there is a changeover on some parts after 6-72, it would be very helpful to know when this thing was made. Does anyone have any idea already, or can someone direct me to when this was made? Thanks a lot! Greg

Thanks for the heads up. I did a search and I won't even bother....I'll just go buy a clutch master and slave. The car sat 20 years so I'm sure it can use them. Greg

Hello all, I've got a '72 240Z that was sitting 20 years. I just got it running today and it runs moderately well, though some carb adjustment will be necessary. The main problem I'm having at this moment is that the clutch doesn't work, and the pedal goes to the floor with no resistance. There is fluid in the reservoir, and I briefly tried to bleed it with no luck in changing the situation. Some fluid did come out the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder but not much...just a dribble. I plan to change everything on the braking system so maybe I should do the clutch master too? Or could something on the pressure plate be stuck or something? I'm at a loss to figure out what the problem is here. Anyone have any suggestions? Greg

Sorry for the double post.....

Just an update for those who might want to know. I got a very good local locksmith to retumble the ignition and had some keys made for a code I chose, so the locks and ignition work now. Got the car started today for the first time in 20 years and it runs well! Needs some carb adjustment and the clutch doesn't work.....no resistance at all on the pedal....but moving ahead. Thanks for the help! greg

Yah, no white tag, though thanks for the recommendation. Warren is right on and I'm in the process of that. Got new keys made for that code and need to pull the circa '77 ignition switch and have it tumbled for that code. Need some daylight so probably this weekend will do it. Found lots of rust on the back side of the hatch...never was painted from the factory...amazing! I'll probably need a new hatch the rust is so bad there. The rest of the car is remarkably rust free thankfully. Thanks for the help guys. Hoping to start it for the first time in 20 years this weekend if I can get the ignition situation resolved. Greg

The code should be on the lock cylinder, but it is pretty small, and hard to read after all these years. On my passenger door lock cylinder, the code is close to the hole in the side. On my driver's door lock, the code is 1/4 way around the cylinder from the hole. On mine the numbers don't jive with what they are supposed to be though. greg