Tony D

The statement 'remove heat from a component' is secondary thinking. Engineering thinking, primary thinking says "don't put the heat there in the first place"! And that was the impetus for the different thermostats. "Run only as hot as necessary to obtain oil temperature that is suitable." The "Standard" designation for 180 thermostats come from US VEHICLES. Nissan called them "Tropical" "Temperate" and "Frigid" and it all revolved around short trip heatup. INDEED the temperature you operate at determines when you want the thermostat to open. If you have never run a diesel in -40 you wouldn't understand that even 190F thermostats DON'T WORK and you have to block the radiator (or some rigs use thermostatic baffles to block airflow through the radiator) so any circulation doesn't cool the coolant too much. "Seems like Nissan would have made the 160 thermostat the standard if 160 was optimum design temperature and it removed the need for the cooling fan, for the ZX's. But, maybe it's just a simple emissions or mileage issue and they had to stay with 180 as the standard. Maybe 160 is better for power and longevity? An "Optimum Engine Temperature" thread could get pretty long, I assume, but it would be interesting." They did make it standard, when operation was above 30-35C They made an 80C thermostat standard when operation was below 25-30C The made an 85C thermostat standard when continued operation was did not exceed 10C Insofar as emissions, there are some parameters for that, be we aren't talking about a ZX here, we are talking about an S30. The ZX's always ran HOTTER and as a result had extensive auxillary fans on the radiator, venting in the hood, etc. The 160 was still an optional thermostat listed in the parts catalog, with the same criteria for application. MOST of North America falls within the "Temperate" zone, so an 80C thermostat would be called for most of the year. In the North, or Canada it could be argued an 85C would be "Standard" and there would likely NEVER be a condition that would warrant a 72C Thermostat. Maybe an 80C.... but why bother for 5 degrees if it's only a month a year? Southern States, however, and the desert southwest in particular DO hit the criteria of "Tropical" Thermostat application at least 6 months out of the year. Similar to picking your oil viscosity....and not relying on multi-vis. 30WT in the winter, 40WT in the summer. Perfectly acceptable, and doing semi-annual maintenance changing a thermostat is no big deal. What you will note is a curious tendency in Nissan's Stock Thermostat selection: 72C=162F cracking, fully open by 180 temp at #6 <200F (with Water Wetter and 16psi cap) Clutch Fan INTERMITTENTLY would engage when going uphill towing 100F+. 80C=176F cracking, fully open by 194 temp at #6 214/224F (with Water Wetter and 16psi cap) Clutch Fan Intermittently would engage when towing flat above 110F 85C=185F cracking, fully open by 200 temp at #6 220F/??? (with Water Wetter and 16psi cap) I tended to get runaway cooling issues running this thermostat with new water pump and four core radiator at 110F day at 80mph steady speeds, even with water wetter and properly operating clutch fan setup. The clutch fan was engaged almost continually even going in level travel. Clutch fan engages aroudn 215-220. Coil Temperature was 240F+ like this... everything under the hoot was COOKING with this setup. What you will see is that with a 160F thermostat, you actually run 180. HOTTER at the back of the engine, and FULLY SATISFYING all of the EMISSIONS requirements by actuating the 176F requirement for enabling of EGR, etc. The "STANDARD" (Temperate) "emissions" thermostat holds the water flow off the engine until AFTER the sensors are all above 176 before CRACKING the thermostat. This thermostat enables 'closed loop' and EGR as quickly as possible. If you go start your car with a 72C and an 80C thermostat, and drive up a ramp to freeway speed in 2 minutes, they will not have any appreciable affect on emissions engagement whatsoever. On an 80F day. On a 40 F day there will be a difference, especially if you are idling around town. But then you should have the temperate one in there as you are operating at 10C, now, aren't you? They referenced a MINIMUM temperature for employment of the 72C thermostat, and a Max/Min for the 80C thermostat. And a 'continually below' criteria for the "Frigid".... The "Frigid" thermostat holds the thermostat closed quite a bit longer, but in NO CASE is the thermostat NOT opened by around 180F. The rejection of heat from the oil pan can be significant when colder, and can result in oil too cold to do a good job lubricating. So you let that engine block get good and warm before cooling it. Referring to thermostats by their cracking temperature, and using the wrong units (F Vs C) gives false information on what happens in reality. Really, the Nissan Engineers DID KNOW what they were doing. Honestly! That's why they allowed a 72C thermostat on EVERY L-SERIES 68-83... Now, if you never do maintenance on the car....well... that may be a root as well!

NO! It is NOT 'running a cold engine'! This is your basic disconnect with the engineering behind the Nissan L-Series. This is NOT a modern vehicle. This is a vehicle designed around REGULAR maintenance intervals. In fact, changing a thermostat according to ambient environment IS INDEED CALLED FOR! 160 in the Summer, 170 or 185 in the winter. THIS IS THE WAY IT WAS DONE BACK THEN. You do not run it 'too cold all the time'.... I run 160 year-round now, but for YEARS when I drove in to the mountains and would get to zero or at least below 30F I would run a 180 fall to spring. If I don't go where it's cold, it stays 160 as the criteria for it (never getting below 40 F) don't exist to change to one that runs hotter. You have a basic misunderstanding of what design criteria exist for an ICE. In EVERY CASE, the 160 "Tropical" thermostat is AVAILABLE for the automobiles in question.There are predetermined criteria for it's selection. Much like they gave you a chart for selecting your OIL VISCOSITY. Chances are if you are in 'tropical' climate you can get by with straight 40 weight oil, and there is no need for multi-vis. 160F Thermostat IS A DESIGNED THERMOSTAT FOR THE APPLICATION. It is NOT 'running it colder than designed'---if you choose to use that terminology I call you out here and now to show me the NISSAN DOCUMENTS that show us what the 'design temperature' was! This goes to a basic misunderstanding of the effect of water jacket temperature to oil temperature. ICE are designed around OIL TEMPERATURE not WATER JACKET TEMPERATURE. But that is for a different time. FACT of the matter is in HOT environments, the NISSAN DESIGNED THERMOSTAT is 160F! Not a SINGLE sensor or function will be affected by running this thermostat on an EFI Vehicle. You want your oil temperature up to 180F as soon as possible. And the 160 thermostat will NOT allow the oil to EVER get colder than 180F. And for THAT reason Nissan does NOT and has NEVER made a 150F thermostat available for these vehicles. But a 160 IS available. Now, understanding this, you see that the FIRST LOGICAL STEP is to drop your thermostat temperature to 160. This keeps your oil cooler, and everything under the hood cooler. Emissions concerns were addressed later, and they really don't apply to this discussion. That was done on LATER engine designs, not the L-Series which was designed in the late 50's early 60's! There is NO 'mileage impact' for running a 160F thermostat, your sensors all will get to 170 with that thermostat in there, if not hotter. This will completely remove any and all 'cold start' or 'warmup' enrichments. Actually, for POWER the argument can be made for a HOTTER thermostat as losses are less. But that is THEORY and benchracing. We are talking here about PRACTICAL applications, and the 160F thermostat keeps the underhood temperatures lower. It keeps the oil cooler. BOTH of these are desired effects. The oil does NOT go lower than 180 EVER. In fact it's likely closer to 200 in this instance, depending on where you monitor it. But saying 160 is not a DESIGNED COMPONENT is simply wrong. It is. When the heat outside is 90F, there is NO REASON to run a 180F thermostat. It delays cooling of the oil, resulting in spiking above ideal temps. You are trying to apply ONE thermostat to ALL applications, stating things like "OPTIMUM"---well that DOESN'T EXIST. Depending on CONDITIONS you run different thermostats. The reason? Because even Nissan realized "THERE IS NO BEST"---no "magic bullet" -- no "one size fits all" and FOR THAT REASON the three thermostats exist. Frankly, unless you are in Thunder Bay Ontario, nobody needs "Frigid" thermostat. It's meant for operation in subzero conditions for extended periods, and ambients which don't exceed 30F. If you don't exceed 20C / 70F you run 'temperate' and if you exceed 30-35C / 90F you run "Tropical".... I can warrant there is BRISK TRAFFIC in the "Tropical" thermostats in Malaysia, where it stays 32C all the time, Thailand, where it might hit 27 during the coldest part of the rainy season but otherwise is 30C+++ the rest of the year. If you are in a continuous daytime temperature of 30C or above, you need thermostat "TROPICAL" Now, couple this with the Aerosols Diffusion of UV Radiation, where SoCal at 85F/30C runs a 60C airflow through the radiator, and at 45-50C it's 70-75C through the radiator you realize that a 72C thermostat will be opening EARLY.... Run an 80C thermostat, and you will BOIL in the engine as there won't be flow to cool the rad sufficiently, not to mention what happens to oil temperature. If it's only 21C out, SURE, go ahead, run an 80C Thermostat. No harm no foul... But 30C? In Southern Deserts where your radiator thermal layer is 60-70C? Underhood will be HOT HOT HOT and even HOTTER with a higher thermostat. Go search on KTM's experience in So Cal with runaway temperatures in his Z after coming off the highway and sitting on a ramp. Once he put the 160/72C thermostat in it didn't repeat. Go to the Grape Ape Racing page and read about nucleate boiling. This is more than injector heat soak.... Each component has several solutions, but as a SYSTEM you have to balance them to get the best mix of advantages. Running a 24psi cap will keep your 190F Thermostat from boiling in almost every instance. NEVER have a boil-over issue. But now you got 215F heat radiating all over under the hood. And you got injectors failing, frying, etc.... Now, put that 24 psi cap on, run a 170 thermostat, or a 160 thermostat, you NEVER boil over (it still may be getting to 200 at the back of the head, but it doesn't start nucleate boiling) and you have dropped your underhood temperatures significantly. What is a good SYSTEM approach, taking in all the variables? A fan pumping air from the starter area works to some extent, but it doesn't address heat generation. The root is heat GENERATION. Don't generate any more heat than is NECESSARY. That is the KEY. It's what Nissan decided back in 1969, but Americans disregarded and continued to have problems with their cars for decades afterwards. There is complexity to this, there is no 'best'.... there are sets of conditions, and you choose what's best for those data sets. And from my testing, once you get over 80 degrees, if you don't run a 160 thermostat, you have A LOT MORE ISSUES ON EVERYTHING UNDER THE HOOD, than you do if you run a hotter thermostat. Now, it's your choice to make. You can choose to have issues, or avoid issues. If you have them, don't discount that there may be a simple answer. As the OP said, 'I will try the thermostat' and I support that thought. That IS the first step over 80F. If that doesn't work, start looking deeper as to what is going on.

Our team rear-ended a coasting Dodge Neon at 70+ mph. We didn't lose a lap (because the race was red-flagged, so we repaired it overnight...) That is a defective reasoning, actually. The key is accident avoidance FIRST. Survivability second. I wouldn't recommend rear-ending a Neon at 70mph. DEFINITELY not in anything without those huge bumpers!

One of the posted replies cited the injector cooling fan as the 'solution' because when it wasn't activated twice during the Oregon Winter, the car would not hot restart on both occasions. It was my point that if THIS was the case, then other items are SERIOUSLY WRONG with the car, and discounting a logically-derived method for solving it, running concurrently with the OEM approach may not be a valid conclusion, as it is derived from a bad data set, not congruent with the rest of the cars out there. It's like saying the engine with a ventilated block has a starter problem and needs a gear reduction stater because the rod binds against the block and stalls the stock starter. Sure, a higher torque starter would probably allow the rod to bust out more of the block and continue cranking.... But you MIGHT want to fix that rod-out-the-side-of-the-block thing before buying another starter... If it's been missed, remember that in TROPICAL environments the FIRST step is to put a 160F thermostat in there. That drops underhood temperatures SIGNIFICANTLY! I have recorded over 40-50F drop in some cases. Almost everything else after this point seeks to contain heat away from the injector bodies, or remove it from that area... But the FIRST step was to USE THE RIGHT THERMOSTAT FOR THE CONDITIONS PRESENT. The later S30's vented the hood to let heat out. The next step was more heat shielding and the WEBBED INTAKE MANIFOLD. (Along with a vented hood.) The third step was the Fuel Prime (concurrent with the heat shielding and webbed manifold.) The last step was blower fan, on SOME installations, where all prior steps were already taken save for hood venting on Cedrics, Glorias, Leopards, Laurels, etc.... The cars with unvented hoods got fans, some cars with vented hoods got fans (S130) On many of the UNVENTED HOOD applications, a PLASTIC VALVE COVER was used to suppress heat radiation above shielding in the unvented void, and to suppress noise.

And I am far from 'a theory guy'! I have always been a practical applications person. I correct the theory guys regularly. But being to explain the reasons for why something happens, or why it works is not 'theory', it may be supposition.... I spent a LOT of time accruing data on these type of issues. At least 18,000 miles on my 76 where I was instrumented with RTD's and Thermocouples all over the car. The root of my understanding of the mechanics of what causes this issue is more than most. Similarly the prior year I spent 15,000 miles with the same setup on my 74 searching for the "Vapor Lock", "Aftermarket A/C" and "Overheating" issues on the early S30's. I can tell you POSITIVELY that the conditions, insofar as cooling goes, on that 100F+ Iowa day were BETTER than an 85F day in SoCal. Quantified and proveable in black and white ledgers of recorded temperatures. I have said well over 15 years that location had a big effect on what was going on with your car. And that HANDS DOWN, when it comes to heating/overheating/heat related issues SoCal/Arizona/SoNeVa are THE place to have those problems. ANYWHERE ELSE doesn't hold a CANDLE to them in terms of severity of conditions. There is a REASON every single car company in the WORLD takes vehicles to Las Vegas and runs them on a circuit through Baker, Death Valley, 93, Phoenix this time of year. One reason is that it's cheaper than running to Afghanistan to do it, probably the only other place with similar conditions. If you can't "fix" a heat-related issue applying the same practices that clear it up in that region....THEN SOMETHING IS SERIOUSLY WRONG WITH YOUR CAR! It's not running right. And then, applying that which works to properly-running vehicles, won't work until such time as you FIX YOUR CAR FIRST! If I can blast across Iowa at 100mph+, in 103F heat, with an engine temperature (with Aftermarket A/C on high...) of <180F and an interior cabin temperature of 70F without overheating.... I think I understand what is going on and have found the keys to issues most people have. (In SoCal in 85F heat my radiator thermal layer was 140F+, while in Iowa at 103F, it was barely 115F!) A lot of it surrounds what are now well-established internet myths about this or that... that don't apply, don't work, or are just downright detrimental to the situation! Each tried, recorded, and reviewed... A bit further than most go when they slap something on there and if it lets them run, being satisfied. What hose do you pinch off to drop the coolant temperature 5F at the rear of the engine? QUANTIFICATION of what does what, and WHEN is important to understanding what is going on. Sometimes, it's not what you think! Having time, and instrumentation, and knowing how to use it can be an enlightening time with these cars. Kinda like the Wind Tunnel Testing done here, it let us KNOW what worked, AND WHY. If you can't say WHY it worked, be open to the possibility that the guy that can tell you why might know what he's talking about. And the reason he knows this is not because he's 'an internet theory guy' but a real-world engineer with test instrumentation who really really really wanted to know what the hell was the real issue with all these people out there ignoring his suggestions and so he goes on a round-the-country trip taking monitoring data in the hottest part of the Northern Hemisphere's summer to gather the data and go evaluate it and draw some conclusions about what he spent time looking at. One circuit, across the northern route through Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, Nebraska, Iowa, Illinois, Michigan, Ontario, Wisconsin, Missouri, Oklahoma, NM, AZ, So Cal. The next year through So Cal, AZ, NM, TX, LA, AL, GA, SC, NC, OH etc.... That covers a lot of the area where people on this board exist and represents a great cross section of the possible data acquisition sets possible. High Altitude, Low Altitude, High Speed, High Load, BONE STOCK vehicles without modifications. As best a baseline data set as I could get to make/draw my conclusions. I'm open to anybody who has documented their modification as well as I to share the data. But don't dismiss my suggestions as 'internet theory' because you want a simple answer like "I did this and it worked for me." That doesn't suit me as inevitably, someone comes back saying "I did it and it didn't work." At least I explained why, and can explain why most stuff doesn't when given enough data.

"new Nissan 180 degree thermostat (opened at 185 on the stove)," So with a thermostat opening 5 degrees late, and not full opened until 195.... meaning temperatures at the back of the head are AT LEAST 215-225F... Like I said "Fix The Problem"! You car gets hot enough that the cooling fan would be required. The 'bubbles in the tank' is a criteria I haven't seen before, and I don't know where that comes from. . . Since your car is overheating the BASE of the injectors, and they are not SIDE FEED (something else Nissan did on subsequent models) the cooling fan cools the base of the injector that will still be hot because of the temperature you are running the engine at....the base is hot enough to flash, and when the pintile opens, and the pressure drops, the gasoline flashes to vapor and the restart issues occur. The root is the TEMPERATURE you run the engine at being too hot for the fuel quality. This was mentioned in my SYSTEM APPROACH to the troubleshooting. You address the overheated bottom injector by running the fan. Again, having restart issues and 'requiring' the fan during the winter can EASILY be traced to your bad thermostat running 5-10 degrees hotter than it should. Cracking should happen 180 degrees, not 185. It should be fully opened by 190 (not 195)... Too hot tooooo hot! Fine for 1975 fuels, not so great for current fuels run at 28psi. "Practical Evidence of what works and what doesn't" isn't what this is, look at the REASONS for what is happening, and it all supports the engineering behind what they did at the OEM. If you're fine slapping something on there because someone says it works, without understanding why...have at it. But don't get PO&B when you start having problems down the road (like having hard starting issues when your fandaid wasn't turned on in the midwinter cool days) and you have (restart) issues! Looking at the SYSTEM approach, that is the key. I stick by the statement that if you have hot restart issues in midwinter, there are serious issues with your car. That should NEVER happen! Not on even a STOCK 1975 280Z without ANY 'improvements'! If it does, there ARE problems, and your 'practical evidence' is not really applicable! It's a skewed vision. An Anecdote. Riddle Me This: If I can simply run a 160 Nissan Thermostat, and NEVER have this issue EXCEPT on 110F+ Degree days in the desert after running for two hours at 80MPH towing an 800# Trailer... and my car is BONE STOCK (including the thermostat) what practical evidence does that add to the discussion. Because that is the status of my car, meaning you can go quite extreme before hitting these issues. Solve the ISSUES, not bandaid them to only have them surface later. FIX the ISSUE! These cars are universally improperly maintained, and when properly maintained these issues are simply not that big a deal, and you need do VERY little to 'solve' them when they do. My 7/78 production 280ZX doesn't have a cooling fan for the injectors, and runs in the same climate as my 76, the ONLY difference is the fuel prime. Both are PROPERLY maintained. On the RARE occasion that the 76 stumbles on restart after a hot run on a 110F day, the ZX starts flawlessly. Only fuel prime is present in the ZX. If this is happening "all the time" you need to go FIX YOUR CAR, not stick a bandaid or fandaid on it to limp it along another couple of months until the weather's cooler and you get a 6 month reprieve...

Yeah, guys inspired by the 50's took too many drugs in the 60's and were in charge of styling in the 80's... Best I could offer to explain it.

Get another head. It's cheaper to start with a good Nissan core with straight valve bores than pay the price to bore oversize make new custom oversized guides....etc...

newer cars have higher pressures for fuel volatility changes for atomization. Today's gasoline is like Syrup compared to the light aromatic blends used in the 70's which were high octane but vapor locked when underhood temperatures rose (EGR thankyouverymuch!) Now they have non-return systems, so pressure means capacitance...higher pressure contains more potential fuel with less variation possible within a hydraulic system of a given line size. You engineer for sequential firing of the injectors and the resultant pressure drop and average the pressure for delivery. You will also note that the newer fuel systems (even as far back as the Z31) have a fuel temperature sensor, to feedback into the ECU for compensation of injection events. It's why the current crop of cars gets consistent fuel mileage. Prior to temperature sensing of the fuel, it was PURELY a volume issue. You injected "X" Volume through a pulsewidth. But that volume of gas was NOT consistent in BTU content. Temperature compensation allows for much more consistent combustion through much more consistent fuel volume (btu wise) than previously achievable in volume-only systems.

Something out of General Atomics or similar, no doubt! Cool find!

CLASSIC! I would say at a former employer "Here at XYZ, we're one big family! And incest it best, so we bone our own!" I can see me using that some time if the future: "I don't need to download porn, I can just look around here to see someone getting screwed!"

JDM? More like e-Bay! Chinese castings on good internals.... LOL

What's Microsoft? Sounds like malware to me, for sure. I'm a vegetarian, my preferences run to fresh fruits, like Apples. Not corporate mush with consensus/committe named products like "Microsoft"! I know what's in an Apple, delicious goodness! What's in "Microsoft"? Sounds like something Malo to be sure. "Malosoft"!

"You know of a bigger POS than a mid-80s Chevette Diesel? " Ever run around in a Yugo... Or Trabant of similar vintage? By default, just about anything from GM, Ford, or Chrysler in the Mid-80's is a POS, it's only a question of degrees. Grand National/GNX Regal T-Type a high point in drive trains, but hideously trimmed and appointed! LOL

Begging the obvious....but... Why didn't you just die grinder out the hole and mount your mechanical fuel pump? I've done hat more than a few times. If you swap your pump cam for the flat washer on later EFI Engines, it works fine. Outside the USA, they had carried engines to the end of the model run. If you think this is related to the E-Pump, put a mechanical bac on there...block off plates are a dime a dozen if you don't like it!

Pay a visit to JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT site on Angelfire... People who see his inter cooler always comment on "how small it is" compared to the typical FMIC's (mis)applied to most cars. We have done oil temperature testing in dead airflow with that intercooler making pulls at peak HP (at the time 475hp) that lasted 5 minutes on average. No airflow but rock steady inlet temps under boost for 5 minutes straight. Listen to engineers who design these things. With a proper core design, thermal realities dictate btu's in and btu's out and btu's rejected will always return a steady temperature. "Heat Soak" most people get is from using turbos out of their efficiency range putting in more btu's (higher discharge temps to the cooler) and overwhelming the coolers ability to reject the heat. In effect, going to a properly applied turbo operating in its proper efficiency range will result in lower temperatures throughout the system, making more HP with lower inlet temps from the same intercooler! Jeff is still using his original cooler ate 758rwhp as he was at 450rwhp. The thermal spiking he experienced once crossing 600rwhp was addressed electronically... But that "baby intercooler" works fine in practice on the street. Never forget it is a SYSTEM and a system design approach as opposed to a, "individual bolt on specification" approach almost always returns more power for less outlay ($$$) long term.

Amen bro! I dub it "The RebekahZ's corollary of Rust to Dighera's Law of Automotive Investing" which states: "An automobile is a hole the air, suspended there by four rubber doughnuts. Doughnuts which you can not eat. Into this hole, you throw money, which you will never see again!"

The injector prime is generally more effective simply because it's easier than setting up the fan properly---and the fan was added in conjunction with the fuel pump prime. The fuel pump prime also helps with a drained battery from extended cranking, and flooding of the car during times when it's not hot. You can bandaid it all you want, but these things are SYSTEMS and if you choose to employ ONE of the fixes, you inevitably will be disappointed. I run around SoCal in 120 heat WITHOUT fuel prime and don't have a problem. With cheap CA Gas. But I know when I can try to start the car and when it will be fruitless so I don't event try. It means you wait 15 minutes. If I prime it, I can start it anytime. If I added a cooler blower, without prime there is a 5 minute window where it starts, and a 10 minute time when it doesn't. It takes about 2.5 minutes off each end of the inevitable (in 120F heat).... Now, if I run a 160F thermostat, there is MAYBE a 5 minute total window that it has the problem (instead of 15-20 minutes.) And if I prime it I have no start issues at all. So add the bandaid blower, which adds weight, complexity and failure possibilities, or lower the operating temperature so you don't get so hot underhood? Hmmmmmmmmm... If you guys are having hot restart problems "in the wintertime" you have some SERIOUS OTHER ISSUES and you need to get them fixed. I run crappy CA Winter Gas and NEVER have that problem in CA. The FAN doesn't come on until 215F water temperature... If you need a fan during the winter, check your fuel pump check valve or something, you got serious problems, that fan should NEVER have to run except on the hottest days of summer! That's the problem with anecdotal evidence and guys on the internet saying 'oh, that didn't work at all for me'.... When they say this, I want everybody following the thread to consider this: 1) a 160F thermostat was available for ALL Nissan Z's. 2) the fuel prime was added to ALL Nissan ECU's in the early 80's. 3) the injector fan was added on SOME S130's, not every one had it as I have seen. Same with Cedrics, Glorias, Leopards, etc... If it's added to everything, chances are it addresses something at a basic level (likely more than one thing.) If it's added to some models, it addresses usually one thing in that specific model. If it isn't on every car in a particular model run, then those are very specific, chassis or application related fixes. As I said, look at the conditions where the fan is supposed to operate. 215F+ coolant temperature. After the engine is shut off... If you are hitting that in the winter, fix the problem, not the symptom!

Without the fuel prime, you don't address what causes the no-start. The prime keeps it running no matter which thermostat you have in there. This is a fuel issue, not an overheating issue. I just told you how to minimise it, unless you prime before hot restart, you will have this issue!

You don't. This is covered over and over... The ZX's used a three second fuel pump prime to refill the rail and combat hot restart issues. Run a 160 thermostat in the summer to keep the blast furnace of the radiator only blowing 170-180 F air over your engine, and prime the fuel rail on restart before cranking and watch your summer heat soak problems go away entirely. If I can drive across the desert southwest towing an 800# trailer without hot restart problems in Mid June in 120F+ ambient s, 91 should be child's play!

Need a Turbo for that 2.0 Evo, Kid? Good to 9.997 bar with 32C inlet temperature and good interstage (3) cooling!

The underhood fuel leaks is a LOT more than what they COULD do on an underhood. There is no functional test of the EGR, no timing check, none of those things that allow you to tweak the car to pass a sniffer that would FAIL you under the normal SMOG check. Example: I had a 1973 240Z (related this many times) that passed CLEAN to 1983 Standards, using only 71 SU's, an AIR pump pushing air into ONE header primary, and NO CATALYST. That car FAILED because it did not have the EGR on it. It was a VISUAL FAIL. NOW there is NOTHING in the criteria that says all components must be in place and functioning any longer. Under classic insurance and this section, my 73 now WOULD PASS as it is ONLY TAILPIPE PASS/FAIL CRITERIA! Taken in another light, within 3 years, you SHOULD be able to take your 76-78 S30 with an 81 ZXT Engine Swap...as it's now only a tailpipe only test... and... THANKS for the update, keep them coming. Good information!

Yeah, this was more a "I'm getting yellow warm fluid down my back and being told it's rain" snooping. "You're the only one..." kinda stuff. One of the things that pissed me off was, apparently, two people in the section where I work apparently actually READ the SOP and Instructions for completing their expenses. Me, and another guy who recently quit. I know nobody else taught him to do it the way he did, and he did it the same way I did....and nobody showed me, I just read the SOP and Instructions and filled it out accordingly. And THAT is where the problem started "policy states"---OK show me where. "Uh, aaaaah... I'M A PROFESSIONAL I DON'T PLAY GAMES, I RESENT THAT IMPLICATION!!!" If I was a woman, or a minority, I would have a damn good discrimination/harassment case from what I found. But, alas, I am the evil white male. I must bear incompetence and harassment because....just because. Argh! As for porn.... The IT department shut off all external mail servers and banned a bunch of sites at a prior employer. I just stopped taking my laptop with me on the road. Unplugged for weeks at a time. When asked why, I told them I didn't need dead weight. I can understand the restrictions when you're in the office connected to a company network. But as a field service guy, living on the road and in hotels for months at a time there are things like paying bills, personal e-mails, etc... The restrictions were quickly made not-applicable to persons in the service department who had laptops. In a lot of countries where I operate, the internet is not 'free' anyway...can't look at porn if you wanted to! Guys doing it with sheep, yes. But women, or bare ankles.... Not halal, dude!

Stock as Stock can be....

I've never done that, and my reasons for not doing so are posted previously. If you use a VSD I suppose you could...see something...