Tony D

And HENCE "RT" in the "V"! "Vulcanisation" is a patch process as well. Term used worldwide without sulfur, but with heat. I think the consensus is that Silicone Rubber is actually "Rubber" especially in the context of the link. Those RUBBER caps come in several TYPES of RUBBER: SILICONE is the high-temperature version, NEOPRENE or BUTYL RUBBER are lower-temperature versions. As a DESCRIPTIVE ADJECTIVE of the material used, it is completely appropriate, and I don't see how McMaster Carr is adding ANY 'confusion' if you open the link. I have used these plugs and have found the SILICONE rubber caps to be better than the other types, long term. Seriously, who is confused here except you on this issue? Cap it using a rubber cap, or use a threaded inlet and plug it with a threaded metal plug. This is intuitive. How is it confusing? Or have I attained self-levitating brain sac and this is just not an issue to me from my superior intelligence? No, I still have legs. Have not attained self-levitating brain sac status yet. Just dumb ole' compressor wrench here....not seeing the confusion on 'rubber' just on the difference between 'cap' and 'plug' being interchanged.

"Stihl has an MS170 or 171, or 180" I have a Stihl Wood Boss inherited from my father when he moved into the city and didn't need a 20" bar machine. He bought that in 1979, and we swapped to the smaller 16" bar. I got another Stihl from work when a Compton 4-Point Graduate managed to melt the plastic case by 'setting' the chain brake before attempting to cut 20" PE piping. $48 in parts and it was back running...after I "unseized it" by breaking all the plastic out of the drum brake---you didn't "Set" the chain break before cutting. Compton Boy 'set' it by pushing the handguard AWAY from him before starting cutting. Uh, if you set it like that... uh... well even a Stihl will eventually 'seize' but it's just melted plastic from the engine power at WOT overwhelming the brake and turning the drum red hot. That one has been running since 1992. Bought a third Stihl with a short dinky bar for S&G just because it was on sale and I wanted to see how well the new saws worked these days with all the technological advancements. Frankly, I cherish my NON-SAFETY cut chains on my 79 model. The lack of it's chain brake or handguard. I fit one of the non-safety chains to the Oilmatic bar on the 92 model, and that cured the 'cut at an angle' tendency of the safety-raker chains. Like it as much as the 79. The 2010 dinky one is OK for light limbing when I don't need a big saw, and with 20 pepper trees constantly dropping broken limbs it gets a workout. Since I can plunge-cut I routinely cut larger than what I'm supposed to cut with it... in 110F heat of SoCal. Prefer to do the trimming in the winter for personal reasons, but never had a reason to doubt the Stihl could take out anything I could dish out. As a highschooler, I was employed by a Chemical Engineer to clear the brush at his beach property in NE Michigan. He supplied me with Orline Saws, which I seized the first day. He took it back to the president of the company, who was amazed it broke. So they gave him another. I seized it as well. Within two weeks, I got a supply of Orline Saws with specific instructions to 'see if I could break these as well' and found out I became an unofficial testing lab for their R&D Department testing new coatings for their cylinders. Apparently the way I was running the saws was more strenuous than anything the R&D Engineers were doing, as they had not experienced a single failure during the entire development period. They were ecstatic that they found someone who knew how to run a saw, and could give them real feedback on failures. End of summer came, I got a stack of $20 bills from Doc O from the R&D Department at Orline. They had finally gotten a formulation that I didn't kill...unfortunately since that time, I haven't FOUND and Orline saw to buy! Other than a Stihl, Orline would be my choice...I haven't managed to kill either of them! Typical day when I return home: 20" Cottonwood felled by high wind, 20" Pine collapsed on the roof at 5AM (send the boy to do the limbing...) I'll add that the 79 Stihl was our primary source (only) for cutting downed timber for home heating during the winter. We were fairly mild, so it only took about 8 Cords to heat the house all winter. That saw cut downed oak in Michigan State Forests every summer from 1979 - 1984 when my parents moved. I would start at 7AM and start cutting or felling trees, and cutting them into 18" split lengths as my dad and brother would load the truck and run the load to the house. That saw ran from 7AM to lunch, and after lunch to 6 or sometimes 8 at night. I was left with chains, cans of gas, and a sharpener. I ran the HELL out of that saw like that until we got out 8 cords and not FACE cords, FULL cords! That sold me on Stihl. That thing never missed a beat and just kept cutting.

Worth a couple hundred unaltered, worthless chopped and welded...

And praytel what exactly is silicone if not rubber. Silicone "RTV" anybody? "Room Temperature Vulcanization"? That is a rubber bonding/curing process. What is "SBR" (Synthetic Butyl Rubber)? Not coming from a Latex Producing tree doesn't mean it's not commercially classified as "Rubber"... "Silicone Rubber" is a common term. We aren't on the plantation in Malaya any longer... It's the 21st Century, you know!

"mi ferd escert. mi ferd escert...escert, ESCERT you fuell!"

KA24 Bolt and Washer in stock at most larger Nissan Dealers...

"Also, my engine is stock. I found a popular thread pertaining to cooling on L-series motors for racing purposes, but I feel that for stock motors that advice doesn't apply." How wrong you are!

I never liked all the hassle to drop the pump after priming. It seems to defeat the purpose. A SBC you DO NOT drop the pump afterwards, hence it making sense to do that way. But "priming" then 'breaking the suction side open" kind of defeats the purpose IMO. A pressure pot of filtered oil to fill the engine through the oil sender point seems to work fine for me, no breaking of the suction, and immediate fire-up possible if you have a check-valve in the feed line from your pressure pot. There is a Japanese Source for blanks, with octagon turning lug on it. I have not quite gotten to the source of these new "JAPAN" blanks, but am working on it.

ALL HAIL BLUE TURD RACING LIVERY!!!! Frank, I just realized where the Firebird's LT1 should have gone!

I had a Japanese Flexible Shaft that was connected to a 3/4 horsepower electric motor (3565 rpm) with a shaft adapter. I found I had to bolt down the motor because I couldn't bog the motor to the capacitor centrifugal switch without it flipping off it's base and twisting the cord around the body pulling it out of the wall... I probably should not hog so hard.... That Japanese Shaft was small, and came with a 1/4 and 1/8 collet insert. I have not found another like it since. I scour hardware shops in Asia looking to find a replacement as after 20 years of use I successfully separated the handpiece from the flexible wrapping of the shaft. So much better than the Jacobs Chucks on everything else. The key to this shaft was it was 20,000 rpm rated. I hooked it to a Makita Grinder with another shaft adapter and it was beautiful. I paid $50 for it in 1987, likely $100+ now, but that shaft was beautiful! Could do anything I could do with a die grinder, but because the hand piece was maybe 12-15mm in diameter was like using an extended nose die grinder without the weight. I bought it and did the electric motor thing for the same reason: no air for the pneumatic stuff at home. Started with a washing machine motor, and moved up quickly as I found hogging aluminum with coarse bits was easy at 3500rpms when you can really bear down. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES! Those chips are SHARP and FLY! I have Several HF Electric Die Grinders now, bought on sale (when they have stock) and I chuck different tools in different grinders. Spreads the load over several grinders, making them last longer I suppose. But for the price...meh!

Dude, that is exactly how the "Firebar" style Low Oil Level Switches work! I never knew this, but was familiar with the technology from work. Doubt I could use a Firebar, though---it heats similarly, and uses a thermocouple to sense the bar's heat...tripping a relay at 430F! Bit hot for use in the fuel system for my tastes! LOL This makes sense, and sounds like a good way to retrofit to a car someone may be converting to EFI to give a warning similarly through an LED on the dash!

Any update/joy on this issue? Did you get a "sniffer only" test?

Ray pretty much covers it. What the BAR says goes. Unaccountable and uncontestable. It's an interesting setup of collusion between federal legislators and local legislators, making an organization ostensibly for the public good, but above the law in many ways, unaccountable to the electorate. I fit EVERY requirement they made for my 73 to do a Pre-May 1984 Engine Swap (70 Engine in it), and in the end the BAR guy got on the phone, and said "NOPE" and that was that. I retorted the next time he saw me it would have an LS3 454 in it (this was 1991, btw...foreshadowning in a scary way!) and his response was a cheery "Oh we can smog THAT!" From that point onwards, until January 2013 I did not legally smog a single one of my vehicles. I was pressed for time in January, and couldn't take the time to play around. My ire and vengance knows no limits...

Or, go to an Autobox, never worry about that damn slave cylinder rod/throwout collar mismatch EVER again! "I learn from my mistakes, and I'm a really learned man!"

Exactly PMC! Instrumentation makes for understanding and quantification of what was formerly black art and intuition...or following hunches from close observation. The more we learn through quantification, the more we realize what we misunderstood but thought we knew. And in some cases, RElearning from someone who figured it out decades ago, died, and never passed it on. Lots of that in the English-Speaking Datsun Community to be sure. The 'apprenticeship' system in Japan isn't big on talking, but observation, and intuition. With instrumentation, their system assists in comprehension quicker for the close observer with good skills. Talk and tell someone something, and they will come back asking again because they really didn't 'learn' it. But have it as your own revelation...and you will remember the day you came to understand it like it was yesterday. "One day, this fly was on my carburettor, but didn't get sucked in. But when he took off to fly away, right down the barrel he went.... EUREKA!"

Naaaaws!

Could use a longer rod in the slave to make up the difference. And when it won't engage, cut it about 5mm and it works grand!

"Property State of California".... your tax rebate one sign at a time. For what they take from me, and the other 'benefits' I get....a sign here and there is a small recompense for the wasted dollars they milk from me every other week. Guardrails used in your own backyard are a favorite of mine as well...

The cheapening of apprenticeship under the fallacy of "education substitution for experience" is lamented universally by craftsmen. But praised by educators and youth who see it as easier and quicker to 'get respect' than actually experiencing life. Just CLEP out of it and start as a boss instead...

" We know the stock intake on EFI engines are a huge bottleneck, and that's mostly because they have almost no real taper to them, and are severely undersized." Do we KNOW this? Or is it a matter of theoretical degrees? How much ideal engineering results in a practical cost-effective increase of meaningful proportion? John C says of competition engines "ten 1% things make 10%" which is true. On a competition engine where admittedly, you are working in a different realm than a street engine. Everyone is obsessed with peak power, and top rpm numbers. I believe the thing to do here is separate that train of thought from what is going on here. A Street engine will likely be limited to below 7,000 rpms. As such, the limitations between 5,500 rpms and 7,000 can only be so much. If you work the engine above 7,000 regularly, then a 'bigger port' may be, and likely is advantageous. But like "Restrictor Plate NASCAR" engines, working around cylinder filling using velocity and flow can result in very tractable, torquey engines with better performance below the stated 7,000 limit. Many of today's engine builders epoxy in the floors of older 'big hole' manifolds to get power when the inlet side is 'restricted' compared to the 'good old days'...and the result is not only do they make the power, they add torque. Cylinder filling is the key. And that is where this thread was headed the way I read it. And the interjection of higher rpm applications is just background noise. Like I said, I've been in 7,500 rpm Cedrics...they aren't as fun as they sound. Now an 8,500 rpm A110? An absolute BLAST to drive. A Caddillac with a 250CID Six blazing away to get the boat moving is not really what you want when you can put a 502 in there and torque it into a reasonable speed in a reasonable manner. We don't own Cosworth BDA's in Capris here... soggy when the secretaries drive it to lunch, but a boulevard killer when the engineers go to a meeting across town. You need what works for the application, and one size does NOT fit all. It takes a basic different approach from the engineering standpoint. That is the basis of this site. Building a screaming L-Series, yeah I can do it. But in a C330? Not on your life! A 3.2 Stroker with small induction for throttle response and torque...or a 3.0 turbocharged mill with maybe an extended camshaft for comparable top end to a built N/A (for the application.) As to things we "know": "We also know that the port is TOO LOW on ALL of the L heads." using absolutes will get you in trouble EVERY time. The L-6 FIA heads had large, raised ports. They were for high-specific output engines, operating at extended rpm ranges (and used EFI in some cases, back in 70-71-72-73!!!) Nissan ENGINEERED the components for intended usage. The stock 165HP L24 we NEVER got was a good example. Originally the L24 was supposed to come with triple carbs and make 165 HP, with the SU's as a 'downmarket version'... The difference between the two? Not port sizes. It was intake and camshaft. Though I can't confirm it, possibly EXHAUST. The Z432 had a double-exhaust that Trust/Greddy Copied for their aftermarket system. Hung with stock Nissan Hangers and tucking up like an OEM system, bolting it on DID NOT 'kill the bottom end' on any L20 or bigger engine I've done it with. Though many experts quacked about it doing just that, the Bosch Dyno proved otherwise. Short of zoomies out the fender, I think any decorking of the exhaust will net overall benefits...and if the INDUCTION side was optimized for port filling at the bottom end, an unrestricted exhaust will aid in more power there as well! Maybe even with Zoomies, but I wouldn't try it on a street engine. Cooling of an L-Engine is pretty well done with the modifications known on the cooling thread. Cooling an engine at 4,000 rpms shouldn't be an issue regardless of it's specific output. If the stockish system can handle 1,100 HP at 9,000 rpms, 150 at 4,000 shouldn't be an issue at all. But so many people gloss over the fine details of system matching, and concentrate on bolt-on magic bullets they get a poor result.

I took photos underneath in 95 after it's original restoration was completed. Lots of things were going on on the 25th anniversary of the Z emerging...even if one wasn't available for sale in the USA... Hell, Dick Clark was even involved!

"and an AN fittings MUST be made from 7075 or 7071 series aluminum, as of the 1987 update to MS33656-J." Stress characteristics of 7075 to the steels used currently... You're getting there! And yes, A/N was the improvement from former SAE the JIC standard didn't exist until much later. Were Mitsubishi Zeros using JIS/JIC or A/N 37 Spec? Earls fittings was fouded in SoCal on WWII Aircraft Surplus. Since most competition vehicles exhibit both high vibration AND a demand for efficency in mass packaging, A/N found their way into racing. F1 used A/N Not because it was cheap, they used it because it worked and maintained light weight. Sherman Tanks used SAE 45's on most hydraulics. Nice, heavy steel and less prone to melt in the inevitable Panzer-Hit inspired flash fire. SAE/JIC stuff is great for building tanks, but generally with the strength afforded the A/N, it gets the nod. With plenty of aftermarket manufacturers making less expensive hose systems, A/N is not expensive. It may not be TRUE A/N as it doesn't meet MS, but other than some hose connection methods, the joint and threads conform.

As long as the coil you use doesn't vary much in amperage draw from the stock one, and you are conventionally triggering it (one coil, six cylinders) the tachometer error won't be that great. If you put in a big honker yellow coil with pleasure ribs and oil vent holes...you might find the tach a 'bit optimistic"---like showing 7,100 at 6,000 and so on... That will require online tweakage of the cal screw on the back as outlined in the JTR Manual for the V8 Conversions. Mine is off below 1,100 rpms, but spot on above that point. Aftermarket tachs with a wire from the (-) coil terminal should be universal like the 260 and later tachs. If it's an earlier (<74) tach that senses current, just keep the current comparable with stock and no worries.

I told you another car would not precipitate a Divorce. Now, the ZX...

Scrapers help as well, depending on how high you're twisting it...