Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Very common, actually. Most engine builders will stake them into place as the Welsh Plugs just don't stay in place with pressure surges.
Put a gauge on your pump outlet , my bet was at temperature you were well over 45 psi on that plug. Generally 45 + 15psi cap = 60psi in the lower block.
I would think a good surface prep on plug and block and JB weld with a stake in three places should do it.
I have seen some builders use less aggressive sealants, but use some small machine screws and washers to hold the plugs into the block.
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Reminding everyone that the Target Niche for the 350Z was the premium Mustang Segment, a way to break into the mass production numbers like Ford Has...
Apparently Mike agrees they are close if the 370's linea be and breeding bear out that original intent!
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Got to Classic Z Cars.com, there is detailed information there. It's not really what this site was built around (rarely do you care what stock was if you're modifying!)
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That is TIT, a raw composite of all the cylinders combining.
EGT prob is physically as close to the head to manifold flange as you can get it (AIR Injection fittings work great on early NA manifolds!)
As noted, you look for variation amongst the cylinders.
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I had an l28 that went through numerous typhoons sitting outside under a tarp.
Freed it with WD & Lacquer Thinner.
Had stuck oil control rings, but it was drive able. Ran the hell out of it, eventually all the oil rings but #5 totally freed, and even then #5 to better with time.
We're I to do it again, i'dsimply buy a set of ARP Rod bolts, pull the pistons and clean the rings, reassemble and run it.
Theses engines rarely require the parts people throw at them.
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Oh, the ZX? I got an excuse to be in Houston...but not Austin! LOL
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None of the diagnosis is correct IMO.
AFR's indicate you get enough fuel.
"Leaky Injectors" have never been a factor for rail loss in any vehicle I've checked. Fuel pump check valve more often than not. See EBay vendor "Toolman's World" - he sells a 5/16" check valve replacement kit for inline.
White cold be an injector issue... But white smoke is likely a head gasket leak--are the plugs clean on 1,2,3 and black on 4, 5, 6?
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Yeah a double Teflon seal should seal well enough.
You can machine them deeper run twin singles (5mm width) and put positive buffer pressure in there. Orient properly for vacuum/positive pressure.
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That is a Late 76 (Post 6/76) 280Z with filler added out back to plug the strut holes.
It is NOT a 260Z, and most assuredly is NOT a 73 240Z
If it was a 240, you might be able to justify the cost, but it's an incomplete 280Z...
The FIRST problem with someone buying a project car is spending too much on the base vehicle.
Flares? Then you're painting it, don't buy one with good paint. This car in similar condition sells all day long in the sub-$2,000 range without the "Crow's Shiny Paint" on it.
If you're planning. V8 swap and weekend driver...skip the shiny paint and misrepresented provenance.
There will be better candidates...
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Sound like air corrector with the repich on top activity, agreed.
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I would suggest a custom isky cut over an out of the box Schneider, the difference. Will be noticeable.
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It continues...
Though the principal I spoke of started his revenge trail in 1985...
He asked me "why do you do it?"
I replied, I guess I just haven't extracted my pound of flesh out of AC yet.
As I said "extracted my pound of flesh" he went from a serious look to a beaming ear-to-ear grin, and said "I started in 1985, and you know what...I haven't gotten mine, either!"
The corporation seems to engender hate in their employees, and their customers.
Customers all too willing to withstand all sorts of delay just to not deal with them as an OEM-Sole Source services vendor!
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"Prepare for Bat-Turn, Robin!"
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I can spot a low-vin car on sight, as can most people who know what they're looking for.
A $32,000 resto is hardly a "flip"
Deciding rationally how much money you choose to waste pursuing any end is purely up to the individual.
Most low-vin cars aren't sold to the general public, same as 432's or early GTR's in Japan. Everybody knows everybody else and while a car may be "advertised", many times the deal is done because someone heard someone else is thinking of selling and a deal was struck.
Your comment about American Muscle might hold some water in the USA, but that's not a world stage. The USA is the source for current "flips" into Japan as well as Europe. I have seen cars unrestored have offers in excess of €100,000, and at the same time chassis that were sold from my back yard under $2,000 flip as a rolling competition chassis after 400 hours of labor for €75,000.
It depends on where you are and where your target market lies. No doubt if you restrict your target market in North America as most Americans would, you have a hard sell.
But flipping "free" for $2,000 with nothing more than a phone call is pretty good. And that market DOES exist for the Z's, but only if you look for it.
A 57 210 Four Door Chevy is just another car, whereas a BelAir Convertible Coupe is another thing entirely. As we only ever got 210-Style Stripped Content Z's, the compare really isn't valid. The most we got were sticker packages and a wheel option or two.
Plenty of FuryIII's out there for $1,000. You won't "turn one into a hemi" and make a bundle as easily as you think. There was a red push button hemi that sold at Barrett Jackson in early 2003 I think, the documentation to prove that car was really what it was is what commanded to price, not the actual car. If it was complete, without the restoration, and with documentation, the profit on the flip would have been more. But because a lot of the labor on the car was "free" just to get it to auction and see "what this POS would fetch at BJ" the economics were skewed. You make $100,000 on a car that takes $75,000 to construct... May as well flip 25 bare jap Z chassis a year and make double that! Lot less work!
Value added...
Sometimes isn't!
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Ditch the 6 rib belt and get some good Gates HTD belts in there with the new profile so they don't make your car sound like a Honda!
You can run a LOT less belt tension on a positive drive cog belt, and yes, if you put it driving your other accessories it's a PITA, but most people I've seen bolt a supplementary pulley on in front of everything else... in which case you make some Cog-Drive Pulleys and stop with this crazy tension!
You got an unmuffled roots blower, an HTD belt won't be that annoying!
What seals are you looking for? Can you post a photo? I know some suppliers in Europe that made these things...
I was on the design project that reverse-engineered the Atlas Copco Twin Screw (Z-Element) and worked on the Rebuild Program...
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SCBA on land, SCUBA under water, and not interchangeable.
Yeah, I would spin on a new cannister each job. If nothing else, the time between usages the cannister expires anyway.
That is the price I found as well, a pump setup and enough hose to fit to my current mask with the adapter fitting would be about $400. Or just get a complete kit with a cheap mask included. I don't have a half-mask like that, it's a complete visor full-face. I HATE that ring round my mouth, makes me look like Homer Simpson. A Tyvek Bunny Suit and some tape, and I'm as clean going out as I was going in!
If I was doing 2 cars a year, or doing it as much as I was up till about 1990, I would just buy the Pump Head---and to beat a dead horse here: MAKE SURE YOUR PUMP UPTAKE IS NOT WHERE YOUR VAPOURS WILL MIGRATE!!! Seems obvious, but I set up air systems for people and you would be amazed where they stick their compressors!
"If it bleeds green, move your compressor away from the ammonia!" Same for these pumps---they usually don't come with a very long hose---though that one looks like 100' so that should be good enough to get away from the painting area.
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Well, it was on a teleconference from a customer's office, which the customer had us secretly listening in...
The customer actually said it to him "Tony has a message for you" is how he couched it, and Dave's reply in a thick Scot's (think Austin Powers "Fat Bastard") was:
"Is that sooo, eh?"
The customer then said "Sure, he's right here, listening in (to all your revealing counterselling proposals, your counter offer on parts pricing, your offer of free replacement parts, installation, AND free maintenance for a year if they can come in and take the parts we installed to analyze them...) do you want to say hello?"
I said "Hi Dave!"
"THIS CONVERRRRSATION IS OOOVER!" (BANG) as the phone was slammed down so hard in Holyoke MA that we felt the seismic event there at the plantsite in Cinnamonson NJ!
Ahhhhhh, revenge!
I went to two of Dave's Customers in Korea, took them. Had the local distributor take Dave's business cards, stamp "CANCELLED" on them and remove the title page of the instruction manuals and post them back with my card stapled to it...
Did several customers around Bandung Indonesia, each with 25 machines each ($13,000 annual service each machine...) and took the pile of pages back to the local competitor's offices and gave them the same "CONTRACT CANCELLED" notices, along with my business card.
The payoff? Mostly irritation... When I started unannounced around the Manchester UK area, by Wednesday word was out... The competition was driving UP the driveways to customers sites as I was driving out with our local crew. I would wave, the local Brits were a bit more graphic with their hand gestures... Returning to the offices the principal called me to his offices (7PM) and asks me directly: What did you DO to 'AC'?"
I have no Idea what you mean, why?
Apparently, upon the European HQ getting my Business Cards, they called to the USA and "received word" of my activities. That day, there was a general order for all European/Middle East/Africa Business Unit Service Managers to be on a plane that SUNDAY for an Emergency Service Meeting to discuss how to "Handle that Tony D guy, and find out what he's REALLY up to here in Europe!"
Nice to be noticed....
Crowing two glories: This all was 10 years ago (199 through 2005 maybe 2006).... Last year I did a startup where my current company supplanted some older technology which happend to be serviced by the same old company from before (AC)... They SWORE it would never work. And on the face, you would think it couldn't. But I arrived, hung some conduit, installed some switches, and VIOLA! Perfect functioning on that which it was said could NEVER be done. The customer actually realized the dryer function was IMPROVED the way I set it up. I'd left my card there... and I noticed within 72 hours, the local competitior's rep was curiously arriving 15-30 minutes before I was usually departing for the day. The equipment was all in the same room... What was he doing there, why was he avoiding me (I am the AC Anti-Christ...apparently!) I found him, and he said when the business manager got my card, they called Europe to let them know what was going on, and word came back that evening to SHADOW HIM AND DON'T LET HIM OUT OF YOUR SITE! Must be afraid of more lost business. And this is 10 years after the fact! (I guess taking a 10% hit worldwide on your core business which you BANKED on always having, which NOBODY could or would EVER touch makes business managers upset... "In retrospect, $21 an hours wasn't all that much, now, was it?")
(Nice to be remembered...)
I mean, I'm just doing my job... That is gratifies me on this kind of level is a PLUS, right?
Three weeks ago, out of the blue, I received a job offer. Substantial raise, in management, blah blah blah... I never heard of the company (related field, but in a different commercial sector)-- I put the name into Google, to find a local rep.... Oh, they're an "Acquisition" by guess who? Yep, the old saying :
If you can't beat 'em, BUY 'em!
And it was quite a bit more than that $21/Hr I asked for in March of 1999! Even adjusted for inflation!
Seems the old controller's admonition of "you quit, you will NEVER work for this company again!" isn't true. Or maybe it is...even if I considered the offer, why would I WANT to go back there?
I'm an irritating, needlesome prick with an axe to grind nice and dull so when I hack my pound of flesh out of the middle of their back they REALLY FEEL IT... They didn't want me before, now that they're bleeding they want me to stop? I'm like a long fin eel up a sheep's arse. I'm tasting that liver now, and just wanna SPIN SPIN SPIN and rip those insides right out!
I went too far with that, didn't I. I should probably seek professional help with my vengeance issues...
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Vins to me dont matter if you find a low vin z but it needs 50k to get it fully restored all out verses a 75 280z 300k+ 150k miles that is very clean(meaning not a rust bucket)...I mean the choice seems logical. No one is going to know its low vin unless you tell them or they look.
You can spend all the money in the world on a 75 280Z, and never get a dime back.
Spend that money on a 240 with a low VIN (Under 1000 say...) and there is a glimmering chance in hell when a cold wind blows you will see a return on it.
In other words, you could take that $50,000 and restore that Low VIN 240, and get $32,000 out of it when you're done.
Take that same $50,000 and spend it on a 75 280Z, and you might get $15,000 out of it. Maybe...
Or another example:
You could spend $32,000 restoring a$700 rust-bucket low-VIN 240Z, and get $32,000 when you're done.
You could buy that 75 280Z for $5,000, put $10-15,000 into it and get $10-15,000 out of it.
Either way, you're (only) out the purchase price! (If you're lucky!)
Logical? Hmmmmmm...
The choice seems logical only if you don't think in terms of recovering monies spent, or time spent. If you're buying a car and DON'T look at the VIN, you are either a starry-eyed kid with unrealistic dreams of glory, or Sling-Blade!
Hard rules about vehicles which almost never change:
Given similar condition, for vehicles in a given model run:
Earlier examples bring more money when sold.
"Favorite Years" bring more money when sold. (240Z EARLY 70's and 72's)
Matching Numbers bring more money when sold.
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If I have the money, why? Buy the M-Sport Manifold and not that monstrosity. Then you have something worth your time!
But in regards to the lump of aluminium shown:
It is for a cross-flow head...
Logically use your spacial-relationship skills and the answer becomes more obvious as to why Response #2 was posted...
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It's the blue one from your barn, Dutch Exploiter!
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You will need more than one heat gun if you are thinking oven droop & drop!
I ganged 8 heat guns on an electric oven thermostat into a brick walled, sheetmetal topped oven for making polycarbonate windows. Hats large sheets to the droop point fairly quickly if you get the right "leak rate" so back blast doesn't melt the front end of your HF Heat Guns!
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We hooked Ian's into the nearest port on the plenum we could screw a fitting into, or where it existed... There may have been one straight forward of the valve.
You are combining two items, the AAR (fast idle) isn't needed.
In fact, now that you HAPPEN to mention you are using a 78 TB, you don't need the AAC, either!
Adjust your idle speed using the idle speed screw on your 78 TB, you don't need the pneumatic crap!
I used an SX T/B, and used the 82 NA idle speed screw on mine and it works FINE. the auto compensation anti-stall was more emissions than required to not stall.the idle speed bypass works just fine all on it's own.
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Try a twin-screw industrial Lysholm Dry Screw around 2500HP and sporting a 32" inlet throttling valve... Imagine what a run up and loading on THAT monster would sound like!
Sucked in a pigeon... Didn't skip a beat....
Gore in the intercooler, I was off chicken for a while after cleaning up that job.
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If I was doing it an M-Sport Manifold would be where I started!
New here, thinking of buying a 240z, is this one worth it?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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I got to agree, I was really liking the colour myself!
Remember "Kung-Fu the Next Generation" with the cop named Kermit, drove a green Late-model Corvair?
Or was the 'Vair Kermit? Hmmmmmm...