Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Excellent....
Let me rephrase that better:
EX.....cellent!
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Your stall most likely was the Ford Impact Switch, either on the drivers floorboard (like the ranger pickups) or in an accessible compartment in the trunk like Escort/Tempo/Topaz.
We would play "bumper cars" with rentals when several engineers came into town. Rap the back of the car hard enough to set his switch off but not yours.
The reset instructions are in your manual...tsk tsk tsk! read your manual on the next one! ;p
Good to hear you're no worse for the wear.
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If you have a Platinum Card,and now many gold cards, they buying of insurance by Enterprise is not mandatory. They still try to upsell, but if you buy what they offer you screw yourself out of the benefits provided by your card!
Any of my rentals have the "trash it" covered...
Check your card... You may already have coverage.
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Neat Tool!
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Every AFM I've ever done just hangs from the piping. It should move with the piping...you look at what they did in the ZX and the hoses take up all the flex. Put a proper hump hose at the turbo and one other spot along the way, and everything else can be rigidly mounted to the chassis through piping tabs. The AFM is therefore vibration isolated by it's rubber connector.
Z31 Cone Filter, Positioning Duct, stiff silicone hose, AFM, stiff silicone hose, 90 el through core support, hump hose, hard turbo inlet pipe, hump hose, turbocharger inlet.
This will allow me to remove the left engine mount bolts and jack the motor over till something hits the chassis, and the hump hoses STILL have fleet left in them (and the AFM doesn't move a bit!)
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If you clicked before reading the threads before...and actually expected work-safe content, the reason you're unemployed is NOT because you got caught viewing that site!
And that's Annie's. It's unique. That's about all I can say.
I didn't link you to the Patpong Ping-Pong sites because Awk didn't talk about Patpong Ping-Pong. He talked about "Annie's in Bangkok" and damned if it wasn't still there!!!
I'm sure there are sites dedicated to Patpong Ping-Pong.
"I would expect such sites would not be work safe..."
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Check with the clamp manufacturer, they should have a chart. Usually on aerospace / milspec grade clamps of this type the torque is required to be stamped on the clamp band.
This is a SPECIALTY application, and not your typical "clamp metal together" like generic torque charts are geared towards. I would not be surprised to see fat lower clamping torque requirements than for straight bolting.
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Block coolant drain plug is blocked by the exhaust manifold."make a spacer block for the water inlet to the water pump"Any more details or pics of such a spacer?
You can bend tubing around obstructions...
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I think spraying Pre-turbo kinda distributes the hell out of it, personally!
So did Smokey Yunick who referred to the turbochargers in his draw-through patent application as "homogeniser"...
It will go through phase change going through the turbocharger, can't get any further dispersed than 100% liquid-to-vapor phase change!
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In fifth gear, on level ground, with the engine at operating temperature you should be able to go slammed to the floor WOT from 1,000 rpms and the car should not lurch or slow, but give the triples growl and slooooooooooooowly start building speed smoothly and increase as rpms come across around 3,500 to what you normally consider "top gear acceleration".
Have absolutely NO clue what AFR's you will see during this test once successful, but when jetted right...this IS possible.
Every OEM Mikuni car could do this as well... Millions of Toyotas did!
A catalog during that test would be quite revealing!
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1.) Use a sending unit from a non turbo
2.) The J-Pipe can be fitted with a BOV
3.) No, but cant hurt
RE: #3... Stock studs aren't long enough to let you do that. It can hurt, if you by chance got a thread or two started, tightening them down would just strip the threads on the studs or nuts...or both.
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So drilling and tapping in the stock turbo location is out?
This allows you to use the existing turbo PCV Hose...nothing new to buy.
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Fan? People use engine driven fans?
They do have knurled heads available and it's not like you need M6-1.0x50's in there...
More like 15's...
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Sir, you have the concept ALL wrong. The point is you never need touch the soap!
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You were only about 20 minutes max from the Anaheim store.
It's off 91 at Kraemer Glassel. Go north over the freeway, turn left at the light (Texaco/Carl's).
They are down the block on the right just past the light at Red Gum.
The Corona store is on the other side of the Canyon off the 91...
Bring a list. I bought a slew of their stainless steel button-headed Allen Screws, you can buff the heads with a wheel chucked in a drill and jewler's rouge (also available there on the same aisle as the porting cartridge rolls & arbors...) they look like chrome, and nicely finish off as plugs for all the tapped holes in manifolds, holding the fenders on, etc...
Once you get in there, take the time to look around. They got one of everything!
My preference is the Corona Store as they open at 630 (un officially) and I can pick stuff up on the way into jobs.
Same for Ontario store, but they aren't as extensive as the Anaheim and Corona store yet.. But getting there. That one is on Grove south of I10, hidden on a cul de sac. Just past Misson, there is a road you turn right on at the "American Hose" -- follow it as it curves to the feet and McFaddens is at the back of the cul de sac to the right.
That one is I between all the foreign junkyards up and down Mission! How convenient!
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When I was 8, we had a kid in Town come back from Vvietnam, and I don't know WHY his mentioning "Annie's in Bangkok" stuck with me for... Uh... 40 years... But I was walking down the soi one day taking in the sights and... "Hey, ANNIE'S!"
It's like me watching "World's Fastest Indian" ...
If you think kids don't retain the oddest crap that steers their life, don't bet on it!
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No... That's not the right word at all. Bath House, Bar, Lounge...
"World Famous Annie's Soapy Massage, since 1972"
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I like the adjustable units so you can quantify what temp your car runs at in 5th at 35mph on the hottest summer day...and set the kick in to be 10F above that.
Then you're not needlessly turning on the fan, or the secondary fan.
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Get yourself a universal choke cable and attach it to your release mechanism as straight as you can to exit through into the wheel well.
Next time, you just use the alternate release.
I know a guy that has electric solenoids and shaved door handles. His release is a PTO Cable. Battery dies, he can still open the driver's door.
An alternate is a heavy duty door solenoid...punch the button, hood opens!
Now is the time to change and upgrade!
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I have to say, the ONLY reason you drove away was that rear bumper!
We rear ended a stopped Dodge Neon in out 77 LeMons car over a blind crest at 70mph, put him out of competition, we yanked that huge bumper back out and DIDNT miss a lap the next morning!
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Your correct.
I have know talked to the po's answermachine.
Great help from you.
"Hi, you don't know me, but I'm stalking you to answer questions about your old car!"
LOL
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Pilots will interchange between 40/44PHH, change away!
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In that second pic, two fingers can be fully inserted into the compressor outlet, as with the nissan unit, the third pic shows my fingers as far as they'll go. Please hold the jokes fellas as this was the best way to demonstrate measurement with what i have. I'm sorry but these are from being 'the same housing'
Sorry, but THAT section of the turbo has absolutely nothing to do with response.
Ultimate flow perhaps, but you will be nowhere near that with these compressor wheels.
The turbo uses a vaneless diffuser, and flow path dumping from wheel exit to the toroidal area on the scroll. The flow path and size of the torus adjacent to the wheel makes a difference, the pipe exiting it does not.
What you are looking at more likely than not is "litigation weight" for external containment should the wheel frag out.
The casing thickness on the Ford is quiet a bit heavier than the Nissan, this accounts for most of he size difference.
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The Ford T3 is the SAME COMPRESSOR WHEEL IN THE SAME HOUSING. It's not any bigger. There was no upgrade there. The .48 A/R housing would do exactly what Tony said, bring in the boost sooner...but it would behave identically to the Nissan turbo with the same .48 A/R housing.
Every functional turbocharger has wheels to measure...we're talking about the moving parts! If your Nissan turbo didn't have wheels to measure, it was a center housing, turbine housing and a compressor housing with no moving parts...
Additionally, from my checking around. LZ18ET, L20ET, L28ET, CA18ET, and VG30ET all have the same center section. The differences are in the housings.
This makes sense from a manufacturer stocking a single part for their own compressor housings.
All that smaller housing does it bring in the boost sooner. It helps to port the waste gate hole as with any of the stock turbos, and get a decent boost controller. The off-idle full boost really makes the car feel more like a supercharged car than turbocharged.
Be aware, highway cruise may be ZCar zero vacuum. It likes tall gears like the stock 3.36, or you boots with a touch of the pedal at highway speeds.
But that's not necessarily a bad thing...
BRE oil sandwich plate Value??
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