Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Follow that link, and there is probably a likely supplanting text that looks promising, only $135...
I would say its better than Mr. Bell's book, which was published first around the publishing date of the one I referenced... And it was chock full 'o 70's Technology from an American Viewpoint...
***CRAP! Reading the reviews, most guys say that the new book (link below) is somewhat hurried, and that the original book by Watson should also be reviewed and if possible used as companion texts. The guy that wrote it carries on Watson's work in the short seminar circuit on turbocharging...
My suggestion, buy it (damn I'm going to...) AND THEN DON'T LET ANY F****R borrow the damn thing and then find out 20 years later the book you bought from OPMAP Technical Books (it was 7 or 8 years in print when I bought it in 89 or 90) is now selling for a GRAND!!!!! Buy this one now, before it's a grand, too! Or $749...
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The one I recommend is no longer in print. And when it was, it was $184.00 as an undergraduate text for engineering students.The last time I mentioned the title someone posted a link to a used books site that had it available for somethng like $745.
Simple title, produced as new technology including GM electronic boost control PIDs, and Rally Anti-Lag...now terribly outdated (As Corky's book was back in the 90's) by advancement in five axis milled impellers and anti surge wheel profiles emerge.
"Turbocharging the Internal Combustion Engine"
I loaned my copy to someone I trusted and the MF absconded with it. And if I ever run across him, I will kick the living shite out of him for ripping me off! That book at the time represented close to 25% of a month's salary.
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Those numbers John C posted are those which have been posted in the past, of which I spoke.
It makes a difference WHICH one of each model you talk about.
When you consider that a 1979 280ZX is considerably LIGHTER than the 1978 280Z it replaced... The argument about late 280 gets thrown out and focuses on 79ZX or late 240/60/Early 280!
frank showed that well at MSA two years running with "The White Turd" the car with the CF hood worth more than what he paid for the rest f the car!
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Seriously? You really believe that? I did what just about every other turbo car did in the 80's in Japan. You didn't even bother to show without at least 350PS... Less than that and it wasn't considered worthy. 300HP L28's in turbo trim were running as daily grocery getters.
I don't know how many miles JeffP has now on his L28, but I know he rues the money spent on the expensive forged bottom end he wasted two times whilst learning to tune... Now that he has it down that stock bottom end has run 475hp to the rear wheels (more than the stroked did at 21psi I might add) and he's dialled it back to around 450 for longevity.
Luck has nothing to do with it, it's not getting greedy and doing something stooped that keeps your engine in one piece.
The compressive strength of the rods and pistons aren't ANYWHERE NEAR their limits at these pressures and engine speeds.
In fact, for daily driver usage I was running 87 octane California Arco EC1 for as long as they had it, and my boost was turned down to 12 accordingly...
Detonation occurs in NA engines just as commonly as Turbos, and the head gaskets that routinely blow out are evidence of that. My Cherry Gasket isn't some gimmick-gasket to lower compression, it was an OEM Equivalent. You don't need MLS, In fact, if you put MLS in the engine, chances are good you WILL break something when you detonate. Jeff figured that out, after the third Fel-Pro blew out, he understood he was detonating. So he tuned accordingly...
I don't have a clue where you're getting your information, but explain to me why "15# is more dangerous on an L24 than an F54"--I mean really?
You have and are spreading some pretty egregious misconceptions here, one is the myth of boost and pressure. I can show you dyno pulls of an 8.5:1 engine at 8.5psi making 300+ HP, the bottom end BONE STOCK! With the sock head and cam that power was way down, and with a stock turbo, stock cam, and un ported head yeah, you would have to tune far more carefully because the heat that comes with a stock T3 pumping 16# is on the ragged edge. But a different turbo, pumping 8.5 psi...no inter cooler necessary baby! With the stock crap, and 16 psi, absolutely.
The bottom end can handle it. NA or Turbo. The difference they will make is negligible, the skill to tune may be different...
But the premise that the NA bottom end somehow can't handle it is ludicrous. And that the L24 is somehow inferior and like some ticking time bomb at the same boost levels is similarly ludicrous!
Frankly, if you go with the guys in the know, for maximum longevity and power production, rigidity in the bores is key, and for that the older blocks, and the N42 in particular excel,especially when bored oversized like so many want to do. F54 is nice in stock bore size, and that's about it. The 1100HP L28 was an N42...
NO engine is designed to handle detonation, save the knock engine the sae uses to test fuels... NA or Turbo, you detonate, you will go boom. Not if, when. As I said before, the key is not getting greedy, and doing something stupid. Know your limits as a tuner, and have realistic expectations from what you're building, and the engine will be as trouble free as a stocker, and blindingly fast.
***this has moved away from L28/VG30, if there is a debate about L-Engines ability to hold up and what it's design limits are, I'd suggest this move to a different thread***
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Uh, yeah, Mr. Bell's book is a marketing tool, and Mr. Bell markets what he has to sell very effectively.
It's "mixed terms"---and it's one of the reasons I don't point people to that particular book.
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On the L28, if you didn't start with the ET then you were on borrowed time unless you upgraded your own internals. Upgrading things to Turbo spec is the key. A thicker head gasket will help to lower compression. Sure turbo on an NA engine CAN work, but for how long is the unknown. @15Lbs it could have lasted just as long as it did before you melted it, or it might have lasted years. The point is that you're pushing the engine beyond it's design. That it holds up is just because it's well built, and a bit of luck. I'm not certain if you'd had Turbo internals for your old engine. 15 Lbs is a lot for an NA L28 engine.
Hmmmm, I've been living on borrowed time since 1985 then! 15#? Try 21#!
Boost doesn't kill engines, detonation does. The NA block and components when not DETONATED will last OEM Reliability-wise with a turbo no problem.
Most stock turbos will go 300,000 miles + without a whimper. Exactly how much longer do you want them to last, exactly how much time are you borrowing? Hell, by simple numbers if tripling the HP cuts engine life to 1/3rd, that means a 450HP L28NA Conversion will ONLY last 100,000 miles!
Now let's see, I'm at 350.... made more than that on occasion, but generally are running at the 350 level.... So I've got 70K on that modification, on top of the 15,000 on it when I started. Oh, yeah, I better get ready, I might need another engine in about 20 more years!
N/A internals, JDM "Cherry Brand" head gasket, safe-rich tune and NOT DETONATING IT.
I would say I'm not alone, and it's nowhere 'pushed beyond it's design' in the least bit!
It's not the ENGINE, it's the FUEL AND SPARK MANAGEMENT.
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Does he? Which 240? Which 280? Terrible question.
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BUY TWO NEW CARBS DON'T GET RID OF HALF THE PROBLEM!
You will regret not getting them both NOW, later when the one you DIDN'T replace starts giving you issues.... not to mention flowing differently, etc etc etc...
Personally, I would have drilled and retapped them. It's not that big a deal.
Next time: KROIL or PB Blaster, and if you can heat the carb in boiling water for 20 minutes (baking in the oven is touchy for obvious and wifeal reasons...) Warm/Hot Kroil or PB Blaster does WONDERS for the jets, and soaking them in a warm solution of VANISH toilet bowl cleaner that is about 140-160F (about 5 minutes maximum) really cleans the crud and white gunk that seems to bond brass to mazak!
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Yes, It has been done on an L...
As John C points out, rules retard development in the name of costs. There was extensive work done on this using sequential firing, but the rules dropped it out of the equation. F1 used it, now they don't.
What I find hilarious is that the newest state of the art direct injection fueling system uses a plunger-cam configuration for fuel pressure, basically not much different than a 1934 VW!
There is nothing new!
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You don't want a 'Pipe Plug' you want a "Flushseal Plug"---they are designed with different threads and different taper than NPT plugs to allow seating below the deck, or near flush. A pipe plug, properly tapped would sit high and proud of the surface, needing milling or some sort of surface treatment to bring it back so it doesn't interfere with other things.
Having a flushseal plug in there allows easy removal for gallery cleaning later on when freshening the engine, and will never blow out if you get an insano oil pump...
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What do you mean by boost threshold? If you're referring to the rpm when the turbo begins to build boost, then both RPM values sound too high. But if you're (improperly) referring to creating full boost, then the cam, along with the cam timing, is definitely a big part of it. You should verify the cam timing is correct, or even advance it some with an adjustable cam gear to generate more boost at a lower rpm if you prefer that.
Keep in mind that this cam should make good power to at least 6500 rpm, which is significantly higher than for the stock cam.
Zmanco, your definition is incorrect. He CORRECTLY defines "Boost Threshold" as the point in the RPM range where the turbocharger give FULL BOOST. This is the DEFINITION of "Boost Threshold"
Boost Threshold has NEVER referred to when the turbocharger 'starts' making boost, it has ALWAYS referred to the point when FULL BOOST is available.
Turbo Lag is the time, ABOVE BOOST THRESHOLD when the engine is given WOT that it takes for the Turbocharger to go to FULL BOOST.
The universal incorrect assumption is that 'boost threshold' is when the turbo makes ANY boost at all, and then by continuation, the time between production of boost, and hitting of full boost is then incorrectly referred to as 'lag' --- it is NOT, this is improper driving technique.
The application of the turbo to the ZX was an effort to aid in terrible driving habits of Americans (and drivers in general) who expected power before the STOCK camshaft 'came on' around 3000-3500 rpms. By boosting at 2500, the car pulled harder below the stock cam torque peak and acted like a much larger engine. For the European Market, due to the higher speeds driven, the stock 0.63 A/R hotside scroll was substituted for a 0.82 A/R with correspondingly higher boost threshold.... no longer did it have full boost available at 2500, it was higher in the rpm range, as European drivers have more experience with 'proper gear for speed' driver's instruction and universally did not have an issue keeping the engine "on the turbo" in the same manner they didn't have a problem keeping the car "on the cam" by driving the engine properly in the correct gear for speed to allow instant response upon WOT.
THAT BEING SAID, the delayed boost threshold is an issue... I would have checked the timing of the cam to the cam card provided, and then played using an adjustable gear (Tomei) on the dyno to find where the sweet spot was for the engine.
Remember that valve adjustment plays a big part in the stock EFI at idle, and if you have overlap on the cam, your vacuum goes to hell, causing a rich condition at idle from excess fuel pressure and from reversion. Especially with a turbo corking the exhaust side.
Give the engine more air at idle with more idle bypass screw opening (if its stock turbo, take the cap off the AAC and idle it up using that screw, that is what it's there for! If it's an NA Converted, open up the idle air bypass screw and idle it up.) With a cam you may want to idle at closer to 900 for proper vacuum and idle fuel pressure.
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Yes, the are posted.
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You guys will probably hate all over me if I said the Koyo Radiator Factory in Indonesia is one of my distributor's customers...and that I can get the S30 Radiators at the factory (when I showed them the drawing someone posted here...that had the factory address on it!) for the equivalent of $25-35 each. Makes up for the excess baggage fee on United of $50 for two boxed together with a carrying handle. Hell, I even declare them to Customs coming in at that price!
Problem is the two I had I gave away thinking "I'd be back soon" and haven't been back in two years. It was supposed to be this past month...
I prefer Japanese Engineered Indonesian ISO-Certified Manufacturing to Chinese Knocked-Off Chinese Manufactured Junk any day...
Especially at that price! Like Kramer and Newman, "It's the shipping that kills the plan!"
Gotta wait till mother's day I guess, when that extra truck is running!
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The VIN is stamped n the body and HLS30-160XXX is late production 73, PERIOD.
Anything attached to that unit body is pretty much interchangeable from 70-78. Personally I have 78 rear brakes on mine, with a 79 280ZX 2+2 Master Vac and a 75 Master Cylinder.
Best learn now, parts interchange and unless you bought from an original owner who has all his receipts...you got a box of chocolates: never know what you Oman get!
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Hahaha, so much for "cookie cutter CNC heads" bringing the costs to the end user down, eh?!???!
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Aluminium sleeve shrunk with LIN, pressed into a 200F head with a loc title covering will be permanent.
And steel inserts have been used under head bolts on the L-Engine for decades, but it's not the right application for what you need.
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A recent indie movie about a guy making a time machine has him driving around in an orange 280Z through the whole movie.
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Come to think of it my frames were quartz blasted and shot with Imron in 1986, and it is still there...but if you don't make sure your door frames are aligned and they hit the window frame it will chip!
Hell, I did the window rubber trim as well, and even that is holding up well, but I installed it with plastic tools.
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People can't believe they pay to get a positive rating?
I can't believe people who post asking "what we think" about a particular seller because they have " negative feedback" and when you go to look you see something like 11,576 positives and 12 Negatives!
It's a 120$ radiator. That's less than you are going to pay to take your existing unit in and have it recored.
For that price, hell, I'm tempted to buy two and then sandwich them as a 112 mm two-pass core for a high output V8 application...
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Pita synchroniser on and match the airflow through both carbs.
Define "lower rpms", if you are stabbing WOT below 3000, 3500 rpms you're going to get crap performance, you're in the wrong gear and driving the car wrong.
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Today, Oct 26, 2012 is the second anniversary of my boyhood friends father passing away, two years ago. Retired MSG, 1st Air Cav, 5/7 Bravo Co. tour in Korea, Two in Nam, retired to be. Deputy Sheriff in the town he was born. Many of his friends ate clustered on The Wall coinciding with 1Dec66, where one of the men in his outfit performed feats of valor high enough to receive the Medal of Honor. That would be Pvt. Alabrese of Brooklyn NY. None of these thing we knew as kids, we just knew when said move, you moved.This coming Sunday will mark the first Anniversary of the sudden passing of my mother, who marched me over to the above man's house to apologise for whacking his kid over he head with a stone (it was in my sweater pocket)... Not cool for a kid who's haemophiliac... His response was " they're kids, it's just a hole in his head, it'll mend, a little blood now and again reminds him he can't be an ******* to people just because they treat him tender. It's good for him, he needed it. Tony, he's upstairs if you want to straighten anything more out. Nancy, would you like a coffee?"
It was different then.
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"The lines are your friends, stay within the lines..."
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" In a lot of ways, the interwebs seems to be making people far less intelligent about cars..."
Don't......
get....
me......
STARTED!
STS: Squires Turbo Systems something like www.ststurbo.com or the like... Search and ye shall find. What was that you said above?
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Couldn't agree more John, the stock L28ET would boost 8# at 2500 rpms as a way to get the American foot happy with bottom end torque.
Jeff's cam comes "on" after boost threshold, same as an N/A car would.
His car accelerates like a built Rat-Motored 72 Vette except that when you pass 4500 the thing just puts you back in your seat harder and it's still on the climb when he shifts (prematurely) at 7200.
People don't drive "on the cam" like they should, and with Turbos, it's even worse. If people drove the cars properly, they would be satisfied with far less 'bragging horsepower' as the car won't be overbuilt to pull stumps like a Big Block V8 at 1500.
vg30e vs l28
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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Gollum, we are on the same page for sure, Brother!