Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I don't have time to get involved any more.
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EXCELLENT! Thanks Rags!!!
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Argh, making preparations to go back for final startup. Not looking forward to three more weeks "in the box"...
But bought a portable wireless hub in Manila, which works great. Means I can plug in and work on the bed without having to bring a long Cat5 Cable, and my iMessage will work there.
We are still trying to figure out why I got a one-day $1975 data transfer bill, my data was off almost the entire time I was on the island. Ahhh, the French.
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Girl says to her boyfriend:
"See! I told you it was the same as the one in the G6 Video, just not shiny!"
Dumb boyfriend mumbles "What's a Datsun?"
True Story!
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If a Holley is going out of tune week-to-week it's because someone's playing and fiddling with it!
Short of a backfire damaging a power valve...which they have a fix for these days, they are like most other OEM carbs: Set it and forget it!
Knew of a Holley on a Chevy...217,000 miles and was still running strong with only adjustment being idle screw mixture adjustment CHECK every tune up.
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Sir, I want to be the first to THANK YOU for your diligence!
Having that thermostat available makes some items much easier in regards to total cooling flow.
The bypasses around the thermostat back to the front of the pump can both be closed once up to temperature and the Thermostat has cracked to allow pump output to flow and not cavitate.
Now if only I can figure out a way to introduce this on the internal block bypass.... Maybe if I convert it to external...
Being it's stainless, it's easy to clean as well! Clog resistant.
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Yep, thermostat regulates flow through the radiator to give a desired output temperature from the top of the engine.
Without it regulating it, you simply go by heat input and heat rejection. The radiator rejects more heat than running the engine produces, you don't warm up.
Minimum you really want to consider is 160F, which will get oil to 180-190, hot enough to 'burn off' water condensate that is a byproduct of combustion. Short trips you may well be advised to go with a 190 thermostat to help with this, especially in the winter.
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It's all online, and if you want the pulpy dead-trees addition it's only $3 at any DMV.
MAKES FOR GREAT TOILET READING!
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I like that the Failady looks virtually the same wether a 71 (S46) or 77 (S52)!The maroon car is an early ZG, the White one a Showa 52 ZL with power windows and NAPS EFI (Cleaner than CA that year!)But other than the tail lights, they remained unchanged...
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Here's another reason to use ANY plate:
It's 2mm thick or maybe 3mm. You don't have that in there spacing your tranny off the back of the engine, the throw out collar can have issues with releasing / not releasing!
Autobox & Manual are the same thickness...
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1349105213[/url]' post='1021907']
Nope, there is no lag. I really have not found anything I don't like about this system.
I do want to try using the speed sensor from the ECU to signal speed sensativity but have yet to do so. I'll post once I do it.
Joe
Rags, can you confirm my supposition that this signal is simple Hz from a speed pickup or if it "has" to be a clean waveform? I'm almost positive the signal I was looking at on some cars in Japan was simply the speed output from the tranny.
If this is he case, the magnet or splitting the pulser from the tranny on an S14 Tranny would perform this function on earlier cars...and open up the possibility of using hose cruise control repair parts to fit this to a car retaining the cable driven speedo.
I seem to recall a mag pulser that went inline to the speedo with a stub cable available somewhere, that may prove suitable... If I read some of their stuff on the articles page I THINK they actually offer this as an option. Maybe if I find an English article I can confirm it.
I confirmed it: look on their "Publicaties" page, go to the "BMW Car Magazine" December 2009 article, it discusses the variable speed feature can be accomplished via an adapter they have for older vehicles that goes between the speedo and the cable. It's not specified wether its opto or magnetic, but that it goes on the cable is good enough for me! That means variable speed is available on the early cars without much ado at all.
It also nicely addressed my suspicions on my RHD/LHD issues! Cool!
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I don't think he has a 280ZX suspension, remember we got a 260Z with an L28, and called it a 280Z!It was around from 75-78, and the introduction of the 280ZX.
You in Europe only got the 260Z from 74-78,
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Grease your starter ring gear?
Wheres the FSM interval for that? Depending where you drive will be dependent on your dirt accumulation. I don't think the greasing will aid in longevity with dirt in there, seems to me that's how you make valve grinding compound!
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Gollum pegs it. They can paint it properly cheaper than you can buy the materials.
Money is in the prep work.
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The procedure for EFI & Carbs is identical: throttle is blocked at WOT.
There is no vacuum in the manifold when cranking in either system.
It's the premise of "flood clearing" a carbureted engine holding it at WOT: no vacuum to suck any more fuel out of the carb while cranking to dry out the cylinders and hopefully fire once the mix is correct.
On an EFI engine, disabling the pump keeps fuel from being injected, while the carb being held wide open stops fuel from being introduced to the engine, on an EFI ENgine it will still be injected. It doesn't need vacuum to atomism fuel, high pressure from the fuel system and injector spray pattern take care of that.
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Bottom half of the autobox plate is unboltable (from the autobox) to access the flex plate to torque converter bolt removal/installation.The manual version is a complete over to keep dust and dirt from getting in onto pressure plate components...
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Las Vegas is about a 3-4 hour one-way drive from the Orange County area...
Depending on when in November you arrive, there may be a Land Speed Racing Event going on at ElMirage. It's on the way to Vegas (coming and going)!
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Don't over-egg what Nissan provided, either. In the USA they basically gave these guys parts out of a sales budget.In Electromotive's case, Nissan steadfastly REFUSED to share engineering data on things like coolant flows or camshaft geometry.
It was all one in-house, in the cold. If you won, you got contingency money... Maybe a replacement block or transmission...
But development? Nissan didn't give the USA teams SQUAT! It was all reverse engineered.
Kinda stupid, if you think about it. Imagine what they could have one had details been shared even on basic items!
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Earl Scheib will paint any car for just $149.95...
That includes the window frames!
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Jeff isnt pushing any limits, he's merely revisiting what's previously been done.
Were he pushing limits, he'd be saying 1500hp, not 1000!
How bout the latest reason that just popped into my head: BECAUSE I HAVE 39 L-ENGINES IN MY STORAGE ALREADY!
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If I duct tape my iPad on the center console, does that count?
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The rack doesn't change. The multiplication of torque on the assist on the input side of the rack shouldn't be that big of a deal.
A little assist goes a long way with the racks multiplication factor!
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Yeah, i would have bet it was safe on continental Europe, TÃœV doesn't approve it unless its kosher!
Uh...
Yeh!
And on the cost, a bolt in PS Unit (hydraulic assist cylinder) for the Z was sold for $742 back in 1976, which would convert through CPI Inflation Calculator to $3,000 today -- half the real cost in dollars and lighter to boot!
This is on the slate for the Shark Car, 265's in front, small Momo wheel... It was fine for me in parking lots... But those without the ability to tighten 96 600 ftlb in 30 minutes tended to complain when I let them drive.
I'm figuring its useable on RHD -- universal fitment. Woot!
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The issue is also the stock cam that power peaks at 5300! Get an Isky cam that pulls to 6800, port the hell out of the head, and lament you don't have forged slugs to ly o 8500, which really is where this would work better.
Modern wheel cuts and compressors could drop your spool as low as 2500 or 3000, and THAT would really make the car fun to drive!
Pair of eBay disco potatoes...with the small hot side A/R!
Playing with cam timing to move the power peak up may help but your bottom end will o away completely!
L20a
in Nissan L6 Forum
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It was popular in the 80's in Japan. Chances are unless you read japanese, you won't find much other than what I recall, or what I can look up in my old Japanese magazines. I'd love to, but offhand don't know where the issue is I need, and don't recall right now if there was any specifics on the 2300.
I think you are incorrect about your CR, the increased bore size increases swept volume, and the L24 is a flat top piston, (the Pin height is the same L16/L20A as I recall) which means your compression will go UP not DOWN!
If you get L24 Pistons on L24 rods you would pop out the deck 3mm at least! With the 130mm rod, and same pin height... you should be golden.