Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Not too long ago, if you had a race car chassis, the tube junctions were brazed as it doesn't heat the base metals anywhere near the point that they change their strength characteristics.
Brass, silverbrazing, all lost arts indeed judging by the first few comments.
There was a time when brazing was preferred to welding as it was more reliable to do in the field!
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" Also it is illegal to work on any automotive A/C system without being ASE certified, but really who does get caught by the EPA?! LOL!"
ASE doesn't have squat to say about it...it's a federal license you require. Easily enough obtained....
And most of the gauges and items are available online easily enough as well. That in conjunction with the FSM and it's charging procedures will get you set. I worked in this line of work for several years predating the federal licensure requirements, so I have all the old R12 stuff...couple of adapters and knowing your pressures and you're set for R134 as well.
I have to agree with the 12R, I recently recharged my Dually (like yesterday)---it was worth the shot for the price. It was either pull a vacuum and test it for leaks...and sacrifice a can to test positive pressure integrity before committing to the whole system charge (damn system takes 5.5#!!!) It was either put in 12R (there is another one out there that I know of as well) or go buy a new compressor and clean everything to do the R134 conversion.
If you have a new EVAP and compressor, you may as well go with R134 IMO, but if you have more than one R12 car in the yard...keeping with an R12 substitute may well serve you into the future. All my Z's are R12, and so is the dually. If the dually had to go R134 then so be it...I would still have had 11 cans of R12 to take care of the Z's for years to come!
The issue on pressure testing is really: how do you get a 240psi pressure source? Unless you make up your own A/C compressor air compressor (very popular overseas) there aren't too many things you can use to pressurize the thing to that point! Can't use O2 (BOOM!) and who's getting a SCUBA tank converter? A Hydro Test rig...I don't even know if they rent them any longer.
Best bet for the 'test' is to draw a high vacuum on it and see if you loose it over a period of observation. A leak is a leak, and vacuum will tell you if you have a pinhole just as well as pumping it to working pressure or above.
If you don't have the stuff....you're kinda relegated to having a shop do this for you if you're unwilling to buy the components yourself. Harbor Freight had a nice 2 stage vacuum pump on sale for $99 last week. It was the last step (since my kid crashed the air compressor and my air-powered vacuum pump can't be used now...) in doing the Dually. Ran the pump and evacuated it down....just fine! Now to see if it's up to pumping down a 30 gallon receiver to use as a vacuum bag reservoir for composite construction...
These things all blend together after a while!
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The biggest thing for me is that it's TUV approved! That is one hell of an ENGINEERING feat---you don't get plates without satisfying the TUV process...you don't just slap an engine in there and go get it registered. KW improvements in engine output must be balanced with braking improvements (I noted a certification sticker on the cage as well...) The reason for that build cost, aside from the cost of everything in Europe is the TUV process basically demands that home crafted hybrids take on the same technical demands as if it was coming from an OEM...
More in line with this site is the featured car in the June 2011 Edition of DB&HVWs, an LQ9 Mangunson-Supercharged 6.0 liter V8 Mid-Engined Karmann Ghia...
Featured on page 38 of this issue.
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I wonder how you are supposed to do any porting with those bends in an enclosed head. Maybe that's the answer: you're not!
The answer Cockerstar already gave: you bolt the Turbo directly on the head (watch for next years models when they have to give a performance boost, lay money!) and viola, DOUBLE the horsepower of the motor---what boost do you select?
And thus dies the paradigm of the tubular exhaust header...
Now is borne the extrude-honed exhaust side, followed by thermal barrier coating of same...
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Uh... 200mph requires something larger than 15" rims? News to me! There is no shortage of ultra-high speed tires in 15" rims and tire heights for use a Bonneville...
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If you liked this show, you should check out Bangla Bangers. I came across it a few months ago while channel surfing. It's almost like watching American customizers from the 1950s. Everything done by hand, no safety equipment, all torch welded.
Don't want to pay for abrasive media? Just pay 20 guys to scrape all of the paint off of the car with old hacksaw blades. No car hoist? Just roll it over on it's side. Does your four door car have body lines that are too "normal"? Try moving the windshield back a few feet. Worry about the steering and gearshift linkage later.
Welcome to 233 of my days last year. I've watched 22 guys haul an intercooler out of the vessel where normally you would use a forklift or crane. Of course, they dropped it as well...
It REALLY adds to my resume when you look at the last line, and it still can say "In 25+ years working have never had an OSHA Missed Time, or Recordable incident." What needs to be updated is "Including extensive working with TCN Work Crews in all conditions."
TCN=Third Country Nationals. The bane of the Expat work supervisor. Sometimes, it seems they are bent on killing themselves sometimes!
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I wasn't there today...but I'll be there September 24th for the 6-Hour Old-Timer Race!
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Derek nails the issue with Win XP for sure! My laptop is so bogged down that the only thing I can do now is migrate my docs over to another 'new' laptop the I.T. department sent me with a fresh XP Install. C: FORMAT and start over!
Bloatware at it's messy-sloppy best!
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Truthfully, the way your throttle tip-in is modulated makes for a big difference in the 'snap' you feel with a big-torque engine. I put a progressive cam on my triple ITB's and the modulation of the cars engagement and in-gear snap when idling along was quite a bit better.
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Actually Ray, I was talking about the linkage hookup.
And I was referring exactly to the setup you posted a photo of when referring to the throttle cable!
Either is pretty easy. With the way you can rotate the linkage on the manifold, you can have the 90 degree rotation in a non-binding aspect. If the 'finger' went in the bottom of the linkage on the manifold, and rotated towards the head for it's 90 degrees, sure there is a possible bind. But putting it in the top and having it rotate down towards the carbs 90 degrees would be less so, and actually somewhat help to push it in the 'closed' direction.
Some angularity is acceptable you just don't want to go nuts.
That is why Frank 280ZX was so happy with my manifold on the DHLAs he took from me back to Holland this past April. Bolted it up and the manifold linkage dropped RIGHT ON like the stock EFI manifold. He was shocked. Short manifold, too! It's just the way it was done in Japan!
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Sinking wet sleeves is one step beyond boring. Most shops that bore also sleeve the cylinders when needed. Can check with Darton or L.A. Sleeve for pricing on sleeves and dimensions.
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Wet sleeves is always an option...
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1) The setup already has a throttle quadrant on the linkage, so attaching a throttle cable and mounting the stop bracket doesn't seem to be any more difficult than your proposed solution of relocating the firewall linkage...
2) And given this firewall linkage only rotates 90 degrees, the reason you can't just hook it up and try it is....
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Nice "Suzuki Scion"!
I wonder what "Turbo" magazine thinks about the appropriation if their logo by the crafty vinyl man? (Along with HKS...)
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Check the head gasket you pulled off---chances are great it was simply a Nissan Gasket with O-Ring clamping the fire ring area (very common mod then, works fine no water leaks...)
If it's not 1mm now, I wouldn't waste the money on a metal gasket now if this one has lasted that long.
A 1mm gasket WILL lower your compression somewhat.
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As I said, float level affects when the main jet will also transition. If there isn't sufficient vacuum in the main venturi (and we don't discuss going to a smaller booster venturi) a bigger jet supplies more fuel...but closing down on air bleeder will have similar effect, but on the top end may make it 'too' rich---thing is on a stock engine where will the peak RPMS go and will they ever get to that 'draw point' where the air corrector starts enrichening???
Shift, CTRL Arrow Up...tab Arrow Down shift, CTRL Arrow Down....
Screw air correctors, emulsion tubes, booster venturis, main venturis...blah blah blah...
I really don't like talking about this crap, it seriously brings me down. I don't want carbs and I'll give help to a point, but if you want to discuss WHY one combination may be one way or the other---I AM NOT YOUR GUY! I made my decision to go EFI because this is a ROYAL PITA and results in compromises that I find unacceptable.
If you simply are satisifed with a great steady WOT pull, carbs will do it and do it rather easily.
Beyond that, get out some serious time and tuning skills and have at it.
Me? I'll hook up the laptop, have someone drive to my direction, and start playing with the fuel AND ignition lead on the same screen with the tips of my fingers faster than you can remove the damn jet covers!
Apologies to Dr. Seuss but:
"I do not like car-bu-ray-tors. I do not like them in a box, I do not like them with ITG Socks. I do not like them here nor there, I do not like them ANYWHERE! I do not like car-bu-ray-tors, I do not like them They Be Damned!
They do not have them on Big Trains, The do not have them on Commercial AeroPlanes! I do not like car-bu-ray-tors, I do not like them They Be Damned!"
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Same as the ZX, but I believe the 83's have a second connector on the dissy for advance / retard. You have to read in the FSM to figure out how it functions. If it doesn't have a bosch connector on the dissy body then it's identical to the E12-80 on the Z's (but even if it does, it's identical to the 83's!)
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Both black and chrome are appropriate for S30's. The chrome were a Nismo Japan accessory. You can order these from your local Nissan dealer. They still have a valid part number for them, courtesy nissan sells them. Retail.
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If you can use a clutch and aren't using a grabby double-metallic clutch, it will leave smoothly and drive fine.
My kid learned on a 3.3L Frontier. He adapted to a 15# centerforce flywheel very quickly. Still a little jerky because I don't let him drive it all that often...
I don't think any of those are overly light...the superlight 9# Flywheels will likely be tedious for people lazy with their feet. If you have torque and a low rear end, you better be very smooth with your right foot and coordinated with your left.
The Tilton and Centerforce should easily be smoothly controllable by any beginner driver if they have any sense of throttle modulation and know what gear to be in at what speed!
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"I thought this was America?!?! Can't we get whatever we want?"
Oh son, you've drunk the Kool-Aid if you're in that frame of mind! Nothing could be further from the truth!
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If I opened a JECS box to do soldering, it would be to breadboard a MEGASQUIRT inside it and that would be the end of it!
This electronic experimenter mentality is OK to a point, but for christs' sake the box is 1968 technology! It works to a point, but that point is so rigid and inflexible, and takes so much work to change why bother?
The biggest downfall to a machinist coming into the field is that they think they can 'fix' everything. It simply doesn't make sense to spend $2500 to fix something that can be replaced for $68!
Same for E-Sparkies and the JECS box---the reality is you can put that MS into your box, have it look just like stock, but FUNCTION on a par with at least mid 80's if not early 90's fuel loop correction and have an overall performance increase...not to mention self-adjustment via twin BARO sensors and an O2 loop.
Unless I was restricted by class rules to use the JECS box, there is no way it'd use it for anything other than a STOCK car (and even then....that retrofit to Megasquirt makes for a BETTER DRIVING CAR! And it STILL passes smog out the tailpipe!)
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Davies-Craig is the only speed-controlled electric water pump that I know of in the aftermarket tuner realm. I may be wrong, but they seem to have a good product. Used extensively in Formula Ford from what I understand. Think they have a pump controller based on water temperature.
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ESPECIALLY if you are only going to 3500rpms! You are juuuuust kicking into the main jet.
under steady cruise conditions, Mikuinis are on their IDLE jet system, they usually run a 55-65 idle jet. They have extensive progression holes to allow low throttle angle operation on the idle jet ALONE.
The BIGGEST problem I see with people running Mikunis is they undersized or didn't change the idle jets. They get a "lean pop" so they start upsizing the mains. WRONG!
Upsize (or at least check the idle jets sizing) and then concentrate on accel pump volume and squirter nozzle size. With the proper accel shot, you can run idle jets to get GREAT fuel mileage, and on a quick WOT shot the accel pump will mask a very long transition (meant for street driving where you are on the verge of lugging the engine) until the main system is properly drawing and supplying fuel.
If you are jetted correctly, on level ground in fifth gear (late ZX box) and a 3.36 differential you can be rattling along in top gear at 1500 rpms(so that is about 40-45mph)and go WOT....
The engine should not lean pop, but should just start pulling---slowly at first, and faster as you approach around 3000 3500 when it should really come alive (comes on the cam)...
I don't have any with jet sets in them now but if you could take a look at your jets, the idles, mains and air correctors it might give me an idea where you are or what is wrong. Unless you are completely and continually stomping on it to WOT and just pumping the hell out of the accel pump circuit..... Something definately sounds wrong if you are only going to 3500. If you short-shift an L24 with a 3.7 gearset and a late five speed I have seen guys with 40's break 30mpg if they keep it around 60-65mph.
If you have the wrong float level or excessive pressure on the fuel (normally 3.5psi) you will get crappy mileage. A high float level causes the main to tip in too early, and really screws up how much is delivered in the idle circuit as well.
To the Weber issue of being over-jetted:
I have found guys with 45 DCOE's running main jets bigger than our 320HP Bonneville Engine!!! If we could make that power with a 140 or 135 main jet (depending on altitude...) what the hell are you doing with that thing in a STOCK L28??? Answer is always the same: "It was lean popping so we kept increasing the jet size till it stopped"... They get 8-9mpg as well!!!
<EDIT> and the timing comment is spot on: make sure you are running the vacuum advance with the fitting from the first carb, or crank in some advance! Without vacuum advance the car will be a dog and won't get crap for cruise fuel mileage, you will be using a lot more throttle angle than necessary and tipping into the main like being in the wrong gear going uphill!
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The JECS is BOSCH licensed technology. As the Japanese say "The Same, But Different!"
S12 Front Crossmember in 240Z
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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How will changing the rack position help the handling? It's still McPherson Strut up front, with the same geometry.
All you would do is basically turn the front end into a 280ZX arrangement. And that was more a 'parts bin decision' to use what existed on everything else in the product line than any inherent design superiority.