Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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I would shy away from 'Paradigms of Turbocharged Motor Theory' by the aforementioned Dr. Bell.
Some of the information is good, but like anything it was dated the day it was printed and it's gotten worse since I read it when it first came out. The divergence of his theories on it, and what just about everybody else in the world are striking.
Though he made one hell of a nice bypass valve, please keep in mind his book was written from what I can see, to sell his parts offerings.
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Correction to Darrel's statement:
It was more of a question if it was ratsun rather than any kind of slight aimed toward them. I don't know too many web sites with knowledge.
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I mean, since we're on the "let's pull a guess out of my arse" game...
"Its really loud when there's a load on the engine."
Exhaust Manifold Leak. Mechanically, electrically everything is perfect. This is (outside of a rod knock) which gets louder when there is a load on the engine. Both go away when you pull a plug and the offending cylinder is disabled.
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^^^
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I think that's a bit much, I believe the moral was roll HOOP (not cage to bang your head upon) and seat/harness...
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I knew Booger had some native Michigander in him....
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"I'm getting tired of spending my money on **** that people say will work, come to find it doesn't."
Are you channelling JeffP right now? Jeff, is that you?
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Oh yeah, that's going to be a classic!
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The cost for labor at most shops will be under $200, the whole package of mandrel bends is no more than that. All depends on how fancy you want to get with the mufflers. I would be hard pressed to spend more than $500 on the exhaust using conventional mufflers with ricer tips. And that's taking it to the corner muffler shop. Got a torch? Weld it yourself and save $200 --- it ain't rocket science!
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Free with the offer to come with a trailer and get it out of the yard always works to get me interested in a car that doesn't run, has rust holes, and 'broken' windows...
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I'd say so!
"Singh Grooves"
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Base Pressure is the pressure used by the injector manufacturer to calculate the flow---some it's 3 bar, others 36psi. This is also referred to as 'STATIC' fuel pressure. That would be the pressure you see on the fuel system with the key ON and the car NOT running, this is your 'BASE' fuel pressure setting.
As soon as you turn on the car and start running, the vacuum signal to the FPR (18" Hg -- roughly 9psig) will decrease your static pressure by roughly that amount. When you go to boost, the Delta-P across the injector has to be the same as 'static' so the injector is giving it's rated delivery, so you have to add boost pressure to it otherwise at some point you could literally blow boost back down the fuel rail!
For instance:
Injector is rated to flow at 550CC's at 3 Bar Static Pressure. (LETS JUST SAY 3 BAR is 45PSI FOR THIS DISCUSSION!)
FPR is manifold-referenced, 1:1 Ratio (meaning for any action on the sensor input to the FPR, it moves pressure that way.
At idle, with the above example, you would show 45-9=36psig
At 10 psi Boost you would have 45+10=55psig
Follow?
In the same way, you can take injectors and 'tweak' their delivery as well, say you have a 3 bar rated injector of 450cc's, and don't want to buy those 500CC or 550CC/min units. By taking the static pressure from 3 bar to 4 bar you directly increase the flow rating of the injector in a similar ratio. Those 450CC injectors at 3 bar are flowing more like 550 or 600cc/min injectors (this is in injection handbooks, this is a WILD approximation, check it out if it interests you...I digress!)
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Amazing what you find when you search, huh?
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FYI:
The 'standard pattern' of the original NISMO header (JDM Trust/Greddy/OS, etc.) is currently selling in Japan (BRAND NEW) for 56,000 yen, at an exchange rate of 79 to the dollar that's $708.
I just ordered the gaskets for those puppies (the small three-bolt flange with twin 50mm holes for the matching exhaust.)
From this I will likely make a die to cut my own in the future, and have a water-jet cut a production run of flanges from stout stock so people with JDM headers can fabricate their own exhausts instead of paying the price for the JDM offerings. There are plenty of those nice JDM headers out there with the standard flange...but the exhausts are few and far between!
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Yep, grasping at straws and easy suspects is the way to go about it.
That FSM, just a waste of time, forget I mentioned the free download! I think you're making much better progress shotgunning and guessing!
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"CHEAP" and "RACING" are RELATIVE terms.
The LeMons rules said the cars were to be no more than $500 (excluding safety equipment)...
Our $500 car was more like 10X that...
And yeah, for RACING, that IS cheap!
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I can give you a site where you can go for Z-Car information like that...
It's on the web, it's really easy to find. Just type what first comes into your head when you think of Z Car and a common internet website suffix...
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I take it 'the underside' you refer to is 'the underside of the intake manifold plenum'....
In that case, yes, PCV by the looks of it and kind of by the given description.
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ITB's are NOT like Carburettors!
At 'idle' they are CLOSED. "Idle Synch" is done through the vacuum log and a bypass line, or individual throttle plate bypasses (depending on who makes the ITB.) Ask anybody who has tried to synch an idle setup on ITB's how easy it is to get an idle speed below 1000 (or even 1200) using the 'idle stop screws'! It's best set closed if at all possible. Generally the injectors go downstream of the throttle plates anyway. In cases where they dont, then you can crack them incrementally, or in most pro setups they drill a very VERY small hole in the throttle plate.
Off-Idle synch is more important to see that they all reach WOT at the same time, and that is linkage length.
In between there is very little to do, if they all close at the same time, and all go WOT at the same time, they are for all intents 'balanced'...
The flow in that situation should not vary measurably between barrels in a body, or body to body. If it does it's mechanical wear in the cylinder causing it and must be remedied.
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Corner muffler shop with a wire feed welder, a lift, and a package of Mandrel U-Bends available from any number of linked businesses in the various threads that discuss large exhausts here are the site.
Want in one hand, search with the other, and see which gives you the better results!
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If you go to an NHRA Track to run, hard lines ARE necessary. They specify how many inches of flexible non-hardline is acceptable in each class.
This isn't that hard a job, and there are several recent posts where the process is detailed quite well.
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To directly and honestly answer your question: Yes, they are the 'wrong' bearing. They are not the bearings that are 'supposed to be in there' if that is your definition of 'right & wrong'....but before you chuck them into the shed's bin...
Please look at some engineering texts regarding reducing bearing frictional losses within I.C.E. and you will have your enlightened answer.
Damn, another secret is let out of the box for those who can see it!
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It absolutely will help. It's been my standard fittment until my last purchase (literally) of their 'new updated kit'---the new routing which uses the three bolt flanges (which I hate) limits the placement of the muffler where I previously could put it on their 'older' system that simply used muffler clamps to hold it all together.
The addition of a resonator under or near the transmission GREATLY reduced the boom in EVERY car I've done it to, and there have been many others who have listened to my advice on their 'loud' exhaust systems to quiet it down. My 76 2/2 is quieter than a stock car, using a 2/5" crush bent exhaust and stock cast iron exhaust manifold, but the MSA downpipe for their exhaust (I had the same setup on my 260Z as well...) Nice and quiet, but flowing well enough on a car that turns a best of 15.30 in the 1/4! It really wakes up some people to be next to a car so quiet...yet so quick!
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Look at Frank 280ZX's 'White Turd' that was bought out of the SoCal desert, the interior was turning to dust when you touched it anyway, so we stripped it all out put John C's FRP Hood on it, a roll hoop, and went Auto-X'ing at MSA. The performance was surprising especially when we used new shocks with cut 2+2 springs and some 13X7 wheels running gumballs!
The car, like my 'Blue Turd' 260Z was a real hoot to drive!
Higher efficiency cylinder head by grooving?
in Miscellaneous Tech
Posted
I could comment, but I would then be caught in the vortex...