Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Putting simple torque limiting straps prevents broken motor mounts, Chevy owners have known about that for 60+ years!
You can do it to a Datsun as well. Soft quiet mounts which never break...simple!
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"IMHO torquing every screw and bolt to a spec is kind of OCD for non critical areas."
Obviously you have never sat in dock and been before a grand jury regarding a mechanical failure...
Some advice if you work on expensive stuff: "Trust not your instincts, but rely on the table of torques and your calibrated wrench for everything!"
Actually, with the little Snap-On Screwdriver Torquemeter it's really quick, not as quick as a power drill, but no slower than suing a simple ratchet. I might argue the Torquemeter is FASTER than a ratchet because you go to where you know it's supposed to be and spend less time (over)tightening fasteners!
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JSM, thanks for the recent scrap price update. Last time when scrap was $600 a ton, I 'cashed in' 4 cars from the back yard (not any rust on them....) I currently have one worse than that, and maybe it's time to get the boy working on the bolt recovery and parts salvage to get it off to the scrapper.
It's worse than that one though. BIZZARE thing is that the panels rusted from what looks to be the inside out---with holes in the middle of hte panels, hatch I don't dare open now as the last time I could see it flexing where the struts go (disconnected them, but afraid if I lift it, the glass will crack now!)
The car is rusted in all the places you usually don't see them rust (and on an S30 that is saying a lot!) I got to get a photo and try to load it up. Guy I bought it from got it for the title with the intentions of making a tube framed car... but you know how those projects go. I got it since it had a title...but more because it was free and had FIVE original date-matched steel rims with the hubcaps! Perfect for my Fairlady Z of similar vintage (which suffers not from the tin worm!)
I think I'll recover the bolts, glass, and particular chassis bits and make a run with the unit body to the steel scrapyard by the house!
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yep, it's an EVAP thing, not having fuel at 140+ F in the tank (go measure it out here sometime!) helps with captive emissions.
I'm just being aberrational with the comment...
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^^^^AGREED!^^^^
Many gaskets now incorporate a steel 'pipe' through the gasket to prevent the fastener from being torqued any closer to a gasket surface than a given dimension (call it a spacer, some look like pieces of cut tubing, others like a washer built into the gasket itself). This is due to the poor training in manual trades insofar as understanding gasket tightening!
I don't know of any 'click' wrenches at 4 ft lbs that would overtighten them (they will be calibrated in inch-pounds and calculations will need to be done to convert to 48 inch-lbs). They will be 1/4" drive, and if they don't overtighten plenum seals on a gas turbine which calls for 15 inch-pounds (that's about what...1/4 what our oil pan gaskets use!!!) then I doubt it will overtighten the pan. Personally I use a screwdriver torquemeter from Snap-On and it works just fine.
If you use a 1/2" or 3/8" drive torque wrench...it's too big! Proper Tool for the job.
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pumps complete are still available, cheap.
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It's pretty solid, and has been since the mid 80's. The N42 has far thicker walls and for an engine not using sleeves it's the choice for big overbores.
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Do cars have return lines any more? Last late-model I looked in, didn't HAVE a return line.
That GM scenario I will have to check into, it seems aberrational, and I'm sure there is some GM-Logic behind it.
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Most reputable helmet manufacturers will reinspect their helmets and in some cases upgrade the SNELL rating for the reasons John mentions above: keep a serviceable helmet in service rather than being discarded due to simple rules requirements.
For years I had a Nolan Helmet I wore. DOT only. Then one day I realized I'd bought it in 1979 and probably shouldn't be using it any longer (this was about 1997...) Damn it was comfortable, still tight but not overbearing. My replacement was undoubtedly safer and for SURE was lighter! But after a half hour or hour wearing it I get a slight headache. Not like that old Nolan.
Time flies, and if you keep it in a nice bag with fleece lining and don't hit anybody or anything...they do look nice for a long time!
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I have NEVER seen a return line sized larger than the feed line.
Sizing the feed line large minimizes pressure drop and fuel pump overworking.
Oversizing the return line just costs more money I guess. I haven't seen many issues with undersized return lines causing a problem other than at idle (for instance L28ET's trying to run the -3 return line on the stock 240!)
Return line flow will ALWAYS be SMALLER than supply line flow, hence it will always be smaller!
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Holy Hell! I just re-read that... I've been spending WAY too much time on big machines. Yeah, 0.009" side gap is huge!
I would consider chucking it just on the shaft condition, that side gap is excessive.
As an example, on a machine runnning 54,000 rpms and having two overhung rotors of 18" and 8" diameter total Axial movement of the rotor assembly is limited by thrust bearings to 0.006-0.008" MAXIMUM! Your little guy has as much clearance as the HS Rotor on a 2500HP machine!
Just to put that in perspective. I read another "0" in there, and thought it was 0.0009"! (Tight one-thousandths feeler...)
Gawd that shaft looks terrible. Good luck with the seal, maybe it will hold together long enough to get your E-Bay unit and do a replacement. Zero Driving Downtime is a good thing!
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OR
"22-23Kg" for the rest of the civilized, and uncivilized world!
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For that matter, an AIR COOLED 2003 Mexican Beetle with EFI and A/C...
"Not a realistic option due to meddlesome legislation."
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I am partial to the Swift, and the Turbo Swift. Not so much the 'partner clones'. Though the Geo Prizm seemed to be hardier than the Corrola in the year that I formerly had (93)...
I could put a Skoda 1.4 TurboDiesel, but we can't get those in the USA (Firefly, neither that's a Canada-Market Car not originally sold here.) Same goes for the Mini-Cooper Club Diesel, 60+mpg, but not available in the US of A.
For me personally a Suzuki Jeep of early 80's vintage (pre Samurai) with either the 800 or 550CC engine would be the greatest thing for around the neighborhood and short convenience trips.
But alas, it is not to be, outside of Guam that was not available in the USA either in that year. It's far to dangerous to have dontcha know. We must be protected from ourselves...
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I know what our inspection section would say about that shaft...
It appears on the back of the turbine wheel that you have radial streaks (oil staining)...not looking good.
Let's see what happens with a new seal set.
Good Luck!
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The shipping on these should be about $475 via surface freight, plus the cost of the crating.
(Just got a quote for shipping a motorcycle, and a 1mX2mX1.5m cube in a container was quoted to me (crated by me) for $475 LA Port to Europe...
Two Complete LD28's in SanDiego, DAMN!
Too late to dig out my crank and stick it on the scales tonight...sorry!
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"Suzuki Sprint" that would be a good choice for a 2nd car...cheaply bought and if you buy right, 50mpg.
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To add to the Threadjack one more time...
My 69 Beetle with H-1500 and PICT was an odd duck that got me REALLY interested in performance engineering.
VW said the top speed of that car was 75mph. I was like "B.S. it goes 90 EASY!" And it did.
Then I got curious, and did a tune up exactly to VW Specs (the biggest thing was doing the valve adjustment.) Took the car out to the same road and I'll be damned if the top speed wasn't EXACTLY 75 mph!!!
That was where I learned the duration difference caused by valve lash can be a contributor to horsepower---enough to get you almost 15mph more out of a stock VW Beetle (at the possible expense of burning your valves...)
It's why I laughed at the guy who railed on JeffP when he was talking about 0.001 or 0.002" lash difference significantly affecting valve timing events on the L-Engine. Little things insignificant like valve lash getting tight can really make performance boosts that add up.
From there, it went downhill fast: 1.25 rocker arms, Bugspray Holley, then a Zenith 32 NDIX...Webers, Dellortos, and within a year Turbochargers with big honkin' Holleys on them running 25 psi. It's where I learned why you use Case-Savers, and that detonation will actually blow a head off an engine. And once you put case savers in there, if you run 92mm pistons you better have a good set because splitting cylinders causes one hell of a strange noise that is hard as hell to trace down until you realize what it is...after that point, you know when you oops'd!
Yeah, 8MPG runing a big cam, centermount 48IDA... and even less than that when it was converted to run on straight ethanol. That was a strange experimental time...
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Personally I would NEVER buy, own, or recommend ANY helmet that was DOT Approved only.
And I have seen them out there!
If they aren't submitting samples for SNELL certification, they aren't worth putting on your head!
DOT/SNELL-M-XXXX (whatever the latest rating is, I believe it's SNELL-M-2010) approval or it isn't going on my bean!
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WOAH! Made a little error on the W-4 eh?
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I can't recall which switch is in the TPS for the KA engine---it's either idle or WOT. It really is meant for the Transmission in the KA Application, and I believe that means "WOT"...
How it would work in the stock application is that the "Idle" enrichment is not as critical to 'smooth running and transition' as WOT contacts are. If your idle contact isn't getting a contact signal, and doesn't enrich then it's not a big deal, the car will still idle.
But if you don't have WOT, and go WOT significantly before 3500rpms, you will have a significant delay in throttle response, and experience lean surging sometimes---more acute when it's cold.
I can't recall offhand if the idle switch is opened or closed at idle either, which would add another dimension.
But that is the general idea how the KA TP Switch with one contact works in place of the stock ECCS or EFI TP Switch with TWO sets of contacts (while there may indeed be three sets of contacts, only two of them are used: idle and WOT)
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With a 1500 Single Port the 62 Microbus with reduction gears will only go about 65mph tops anyway! Doing that, basically flatfooted from Tawas to Saginaw for a Ted Nugent Concert one summer, my mileage was about 24mpg (I still have the records actually...)And that was with 5 guys in the bus along with various accouterments de concertiphilia. It shocked me that I could put DUAL CARBS, a BIGGER engine, and get BETTER gas mileage at a HIGHER speed! (The bus would go 75+ with the 1641 and return as stated 24mpg. If I restricted it to the former driving speeds of 55-65 tops, the thing got 27mpg!!!)
The PICT should give you 20-24 between 50-60mph. Not as much as a Beetle for sure, but better than just about anything else with that kind of cargo capacity.
When I ran the gasoline heater during the winter, the mileage on the freeway went down 2mpg, which was acceptable to me because I like driving in a T-Shirt at -35 and watching all the guys bundled up in Down Coats in their Impalas and New Yorkers look at me with steam rising from their cups as I quaffed ice-cold Mt. Dew from the big styro cup from Forwards in Standish...
I used to transport juvenile offenders in that bus. The guys on Pasadena Street in Flint always got a charge out of the irony of miscreant youth being delivered in a Microbus. 'Hey man what did you do, trick them into that hippie bus then lock em up and take em here?'
I have to admit, it probably was a pretty bizarre sight! -
Yep, the 3800 is an amazing engine, with lots of torque so you can gear accordingly. First time I got one in a Regal I was shocked. I commented that 'it accelerates like it's angry at something!'
For years I lamented the GEN2 3800 was not an option in the V6 Mustang!
Gawd Ford's V6 sucked compared to the GM 3800!!! For YEARS. They finally got it right this past year...kinda!
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They are longer by 5mm, the thickness of the support.
Stock Fuel Pump Rebuid Kit?
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
Atsugi may be difficult to find, they are out there, but the non-rebuildable units seem to work O.K.