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Tony D

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Posts posted by Tony D

  1. Oh, this is where the thread went...

     

    Yes, it was a successful install.

     

    Jeff and I (as well as Frank 280ZX and Andy Flagg) had a little get-together at the MSA event to discuss some more things on this. Really, with the size hoses everbody is using it's amazing the results we are achieving. Reviewing archival photos recently with a caliper in-hand, the stuff used in the past was much larger!

     

    So for you 1100HP L-Gata Endurance Racers.... use bigger lines than discussed in this thread! ;)

  2. The entire suspension under my 73 240Z is from a 77 Farilady Z Coupe.

    Why? Because it was all new and I knew the componentry---the guy what did the work on the 73 wasn't keen on proper assembly so the best bet was to find another, and just swap the whole mess over at once in order to know it was all complete.

     

    The P.O. left out things like the steel spacer in the T/C rod bushings, and swapped from late to early Brake MC lines because he "didn't like the look" of them crossing under the MC... Nothing like having no brakes until the last 1/4" of travel then suddenly hearing a "THUNK!" and having the wheel jump out of your hand---and the guy next to you saying "Your wheel just moved back in the wheel well like 5 inches dude!"

     

    Otherwise, meh!

  3. Discussing this with Frank and Joe in the truck today I remembered that I also had a serious speedometer error. I was recalling spedometer number, when in fact I showed 110mph on the speedo it in reality was 137mph. So this same error might be retroactively applied to my speed numbers. Perhaps me showing 70mph was closer to 90 mpd...

  4. 1) You are driving the car incorrectly: gear it so you are in the power band on-course. You should not be below 3000 rpms. Same as a Cammed engine.

    2) Use a smaller turbine wheel A/R like a 0.48 instead of the 0.63. Mine would spool off-idle to 17psi at 1700 rpms and driving autox was a breeze. Everybody goes for terminal power numbers under some misguided assumption that a small housing just kills your 'top end' horsepower, which especially in stock turbos is hogwash---run a smaller A/R and get the spool back to where it was stock, or slightly lower. It will work wonders coming off a corner.

    3) when you change to the smaller A/R, install an ATB, or LSD. You will burn the tires with all the torque you have. STaying in second gear will not be an issue and people will be amazed at how the car squats and goes.

     

    You don't need a cam to run the power up higher, you have a terribly mismatched turbo for the application. If it's not boosting to 9posi until 3K rpms, you have a serious mismatch on the turbo or severe tuning issues which should manifest in a number of other ways which I would think you would mention...so that leaves bad turbo selection as the most likely cluprit.

     

    Even with the smaller housing, the thing can be cut, and a slightly more agressive cam can be added to push power peak up a bit higher, and give the sensation of pulling to 6000+, instead of 'wow if I short shift at 5500 this thing sure seems faster' type of run you are likely getting now.

     

    Been here, solved that. With the original 0.48 nissan housing suitably modified for the wheel and hybridized compressor 275-350 at the wheel with 17psi-21psi available at 1700-6500 was possible (though it was best shifted aroudn 6200 actually but would 'pull' to 6500 if asked on a long straight.) 21 psi was really close to the surge line and was touchy on a hot day... or really cold day. But at 17psi the car was so strong and strong down low it was not a necessity to go to 21. I would routinely cruise in top gear at 50mph and 2K rpm, and just hammer the throttle to pass people. The torque was amazing. I miss that little turbo, and lament I ever drank the cool-aid and put the US Market 0.63 housing turbo on the car. I should never have sold it to that damnable Isuzu freak with the Impulse/Imprezza... :(

  5. I don't think so, the Cedric and Skyline Kenmeri are two totally different cars.

    And in the JDM, the CEdric was available with the L28, whereas the Skylines in JDM were all L20's or derivatives---they never got the L24 or larger engines there.

     

    Cedric 230

    250px-Nissan_Cedric_230_002.JPG

     

    Cedric 330

    250px-Nissan_Cedric_330a.jpg

     

    They were avaialble in 2-doors as well. Kinda like the Hot Impala SS of Japan...

    800px-Datsun_260C_2door_rhd.JPG

     

    A Laurel and Skyline, maybe. Never a Cedric and a Skyline! :huh:

  6. Mines an 83 so its hydraulic

    :rolleyes:

     

    OMFG...

     

    TWO of the THREE I got in the shed came from 83's. The year, the casting... MEANS NOTHING--you can say you have Hydraulic when you have LOOKED and CONFIRMED it.

     

    How hard is this? :huh:

  7. So you're saying I should have stolen a gallon of that "LCS Fluid" from the F15's and gone the immersed processor route like most avionics have done for...what? 40+ years?

     

    My kid got a fluid cooled CPU for his tower and was all raving about it... until I showed him photos of F15's with AT (or was it XT) computer boards in the Avionics Bay bathed in liquid coolant. What he thought was 'cutting edge' was really rehashed military technology from when I was a kid! :D

     

    Imagine what they got out there now...

     

    Your tax dollars at work!

     

    I use canned air a lot. Hell, crack the case and clean thoroughly. It doesn't take that long. I have been known to shoot freez-it in the intake port when I'm getting the toasty feeling on my left knee...

  8. Are swaps illegal there? Or is it like California where you need all the smog tech?

     

    Oh, you haven't a clue! They will fail your car on inspection if your front calipers deviate more than 3% in clamping force.

     

    There is a reason I really don't complain about CA Smog... When you compare it to European ENGINEERING COMPLIANCE requirements making a car run clean and look legal is CHILD's PLAY!

     

    You want a nightmare? Talk to the guys in AUSTRALIA about a cross-platform high-horsepower engine swap and see what THEY have to go through.

     

    Passing in Califorina? Hell, that's drunk in my sleep after a bongfull of pure Columbian and an 8 ball of China White easy to pass by comparison....

  9. Yep, I have THREE P90A's in my shed... NOT ONE is "Hydraulic"--you can not go by casting number, you have to look.

     

    The fourth P90A I have is in a relatively unmolested 83 ZXT 2+2, and it's got the hydraulics in it. Externally it's identical to two of the ones I have in storage, and the other one simply doesn't have the oil cooler on it.

  10. Oh, how I can relate to that scenario (WINNING!) at this particular point in time... :(

     

    John, I have to agree. I have actually had gleeful calls from guys who are freshly from the Referee Station that start out with "I never believed what you said, but MAN THAT WAS EASY!"

     

    If you do the proper legwork before the conversion, it really is a very simple straightforward process.

     

    Now that Legal KA24 swap in a 510.... John, we need to talk some more when I see you later this week! In a good way... :lol:

  11. Ok see mine has the original l28 in it but it has a external oil cooler. So there was no different cam? O your MattK off of RSW do you know anyone who would like to buy my fairlady? im from espanola you should give me a call 5059011865.

     

    another question does anyone know what the weber big bore throttle body is worth? its about as big as a 240sx one.

     

     

    The oil cooler is aftermarket, or Nissan Parts from another market. They did not come with oil coolers on ANY S130 sold in the JDM. They were standard equipment on Turbo Cars in Europe, though...

     

    If your badges are "Fairlady 280Z" and the firewall VIN begins with 'HS130' then it's a legitimate Fairlady 280Z(X) and should have an L28.

     

    If the fender badging says "Fairlady Z" and the firewall VIN begins with 'S130' then it's a 2.0 Liter Fairlady Z which has had an L28 put into it at some point.

     

    From what I guess, the VIN is in the low 2000's or before...

  12. Misinformation: My Dad brought back his 79ZX (titled as a 78 due to the Japanese going by manufactured date rather than actual model year) when we moved back to the states from Japan in '85. I helped my Dad work on it quite a few times. My brother wound up with that car, and it sports a warmed over SR20DET in it now.

     

    I edited your post to properly reflect what it should have said...

     

    The two most glaring points in the thread:

    1) The Japanese go by DATE SOLD on the Shaken-Sho paperwork. You can have a 78 Fairlady 280Z (HS130) (I have two...) and also a 78 Fairlady Z which is an S30...

    2) Normal L28? not by a longshot! The EFI system is FAR more advanced than ANY car deliverd inthe USA. They have a stepper-motor IAC on those cars, as well as very clean emissions. It is a very different control system than what came in the States.

  13. Define "Ridiculous"...

     

    $124 for a 'indeginous manufactured water pipe of moroccan origin' and a Fez seems ridiculous, but then again it showed up in 3 1/2 days and I could track it and it was insured for an exorbitant amount to cover both shipping and parts cost if it got lost!

     

    DHL, UPS both have overseas freight via air freight. Is this a large or bulky item???

     

    What are the rough dimensions of the package? This would help in determining shipping company or method. upakweship.com, all sorts of options but its obviously larger than or heavier than an exhaust manifold. There was an option to surface or air freight the exhaust manifold. One went surface, and you already know that story. The other went air for considerably more and was there in 4 days.

  14. Ken, that last sentence may be your undoing. Prep for shipment and if it doesn't arrive in 21 days... argh, mail another one and call it 'all you could do'... Really unless they buck up for insured shipment, you've effectively cut that original sale margin in two. The guy should reimburse you for the second shipment in arrears, that is, after receipt of proof of shipping costs in your e-mail.

     

    But this is only my opinion. Sucks he has to pay twice to get it, but sucks you have to send TWO without getting paid for the second one. At least he should offer to split the second shipment cost with you so you're not out 2X for that as well.

  15. RHD may not make not make any difference to you, but it's a big deal for me. Moreover, I am not in Canada; therefore, what you posted is irrelevant.

     

    Er, yeah, the those trees are in the way of me seeing all the forest as well... :rolleyes:

     

    As to OBD2, what of the Nisstune? Most domestic OBD2 ECU's are far more tuneable through laptop (to the equivalent levels of a Standalone...) than earlier 'dumb' ecus are, this is only a matter of time and or demand on Nissan Products. I'm not sure what the CONSULT capabilities are, but between that and aftermarket tuning hacks, the 'requirement' to go standalone is quickly disapearing, and in some cases makes you give up features that are performance tailored to the specific vehicle.

     

    I don't know where the 'cooling' thread went in the local change, but I think you can see a very late model Z32 Box on JeffP's engine. I know he tweaked his 90 box with Nisstune, and he scoured the junkyards for some later boxes with VVT or other quirks like the Maxima VG with a single O2 sensor, etc.

     

    I mean a good clean N/A grafted with a low mileage 98 or 99 JDM Turbo drivetrain...HybridZ anybody?

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