Tony D

Works now for me as well, thanks.

It wasn't a 'discussion', it was a 'definition'... By definition pressure is only a manifestation to resistance to flow. If your turbocharger only flows X cfm (or pph), and you put it through an X sized orifice, then you will get X psi. Take that same orifice and try to push X+Y from a larger turbocharger and your resultant X+Y psi will be higher. People mistake the power boost as coming from an increase in the PSI, where in reality that is only an indication that there has been a FLOW increase in the system, and the resistance to it shows an increase. If it was BOOST that was making the horsepower---then when you take the second example (original head/orifice) and open it up on the larger turbo, and the 'boost' is kept at the original X psi, your horsepower would be LESS from the original first test, but it won't be because flow is making more get into the cylinder. And at the X+Y psi level similar things would be assumed: if it was boost that made the HP increase then at that elevated number with the ported head you would expect the same horsepower, but it won't be, it will be more, as more FLOW is generated and as a result more power is produced. This assumes proper fueling in all conditions. People say 'boost is what makes horsepower'---this is wrong thinking. The above example shows why. Boost is only, and CAN ONLY EVER BE a measure of the systems' resistance to flow from a given flow source. Whether it be a roots blower, turbocompressor, or even a reciprocating first stage compressor (yes you can do that!) Really, there isn't any discussion, it's a definition. This is 'Compressors 101' and the only practical way to explain pressure in a flowing system. This discussion applies to any fluid system. The problem is people apply STATIC definitions to a FLUID system (where pressure means more contents in a given confined space) and make assumptions accordngly. Can't do that.

I don't know why there is any length of straight pipe after the diameter transition piece and the first elbow---that's where you went awry. Many times I see the v-band right on the elbow. The 'turbulent air' exiting the turbine really won't 'straighten' to any great degree before the elbow, so putting any straight pipe there for any reason other than a known downstream obstacle (which can usually be compensated for in several other planes) is not required. Take out not a bit, but ALL of the straight portion after your diameter transition piece. Make sure your T/C rod clears, and has it's OEM heat shield in place, and you should be fine. I'm with post #2: this is no big deal, cut and reweld. This is why mocking up on the car is generally preferred--you generally only do it once then. Tacking it still requires two trips to the welder/fab guy... But it makes changes like this MUCH easier as you are grinding off four nuggets and not cutting the whole pipe and cleaning it of a full round weldment (this is going to shorten your transition piece you have now...) Good Luck.

The later subframe upgrade is pretty popular in Japan--most of the cars that came to the ZCON in Y2K which had RB Swaps has the R32/R33 subframe swap done to them. Tetsu Takakamo and his RB26 powered S130 may have used a Z32 subframe---I can't remember now which he said he used. I think one or more of them were Z32 subframe-converted.

Actually, I would run out at -35F stomp the gas pedal and crank that 6V starter with 12V and fire it off... Flick the GAS HEATER SWITCH and put it on 'high' followed by another dash back into the house (usually wearing a T-Shirt and shorts...) wherein I would scarf down a bowl of Cheerios, don my pants or proper footwear, and put my down coat over my arm... By the time I got back out, the gearbox was sufficiently warm from twisting around at fast idle for 10-15 minutes that I could get it into first and reverse...and the interior of the van was over 80F! I would drive to work even after as little as five minutes in my T-Shirt, while others were trying to get big blocks and small blocks of all sizes warmed from -40 to even 60 degrees to try and get heat inside their car. Heck, that gas heater only cost me 2 mpg on the highway on 'high'---(25 vs 27mpg) and it was the BEST EVER ACCESSORY OFFERED for an early split-windowed bus! If you lived where it got cold, they were a godsend. I would LAUGH at people driving their 'luxury' cars in down parkas with scraped windows because the heaters didn't work after only a five minute warm up in the driveway! One time, we got around 38" of snow overnight. I remember that morning running out barefoot (hey, it was warm enough to snow, it wasn't THAT cold!) and doing the STOMP-CRANK-LIGHTOFF routine, and while I was eating my Cheerios that morning, watched this perfect 38" tall dome of snow on the roof part in the middle, and slough off and fall to the ground on either side of the Bus. Coincidentally that was witnessed by my dad... Two days later a cold snap hit, and two cels on his battery froze solid and old Tony had to give dad a ride to work. The heat inside really changed his thoughts on my 'misery driving in that air cooled thing' during the winter months! And he heard no end of 'sure, dad...if your car is dead I can give you a ride to work!' Yeah, that old bus changed a lot of people's minds on a lot of things!

The pivot is spherical, it's more important to get it in the right spot to make the rocker arm ratio consistent with the others, than to have it straight up and down....

You have a source for NEW NISSAN S30 R200 Moustache Bars? Praytel elaborate, as they are NLA in America...so I'd really like to know where this 'same setup' is going to be available for 1/4 the cost when the originals are not available... Also note that the Yen Price of 30,000 yen is a whole $111 in the golden days. It's not Kameari's Fault that the dollar has been floating (or sinking)... Welcome to the side effects of an empire on decline. 7500 yen=$28... again, the strong yen sucks if you aren't the dominant economic force on the face of the planet, eh? Only thing I can say to that is 'Billet Arizona Z Car' components look great on a show car, but there is no way in hell I would be putting them on a car driven on the street or in competition. Billet Snaps on impact... And again, any of the pricing sucks ONLY if you are an American paying in AMERICAN DOLLARS. The rest of the world it seems is getting Japanese speed parts at a cheaper and cheaper rate. To a Japanese earning Yen, these prices have REMAINED UNCHANGED FOR ALMOST 30 YEARS! Tell me (in AMERICAN DOLLARS) which speed parts can lay claim to that? I remember NEW Dobi Spoilers for under $50. Fiberglass Doors (epoxy resins used, not polyester) for $225. The prices in America for AMERICAN MADE preformance parts have skyrocketed with inflation---while the Japanese System internally to Japan has held prices relatively constant in terms of total yen price asked... Gene Berg once said: "If you can't afford to do it right now, how will you find the money to do it over a second time when it all comes apart?" Same situation here... And as an addendum to my commentary: there is a REASON these parts are made in JAPAN. The support for them at the relatively constant price (even though it be high initially) tends to be a REAL BARGIAN in the long-term for the long-range thinking Japanese. The buy cheap mentality prevalent in America makes such niche markets nearly impossible to cultivate in any real way. Most producers of parts for the Datsun in America have gone away, simply because of their reliance on VOLUME and CHEAP PRICE. When the volume goes away, so the product follows. It's the wrong marketing model, but hey...it's the American Way. One little 6 month currency correction in 1988 doubled the prices of Japanese Speed Parts. You guys just never realized how good it was...

You need to send JeffP a PM or e-mail. I believe he did a single tap abouve 3/4 because of the proximity of the exhaust. He can tell you in thousandths of an inch where he tapped referenced off some existing hole or stud or whatever. Thousandths of an inch...

Two items: RE: Limo Lacks sufficient fun fur application to either interior or exterior to be considered truly 'chariot status'. RE: VW Bus Coming back to town after hiatus in the military, a youngster commented to me "Oh, you're the guy with "The Tylenol Bus" the one you can hear 1/4 mile before you see it!" Red and White, Turbo City 4BBL draw-through, and Harmon-Kardon Biamped Kraco Head Unit with Echo Box driving Kicker Kricket Speakers and a 10" Subwoofer. All in 1983...in the sticks of Michigan. Where there were many sad teenage F-Body Fans due to that bus... I still own it today in more of a 'stock' form. Probably one of two vehicles I own where I could pay someone else to do a full-on restoration and make money on the deal. The other is my 66 Bus...

Easyjet is your friend! Buy some tickets early enough and the hack fare to the airport will be more expensive than the return ticket to Amsterdam (or any other Easyjet Destination!) "Think Southwest Airlines of Europe...only Orange!" I was going R/T from John Lennon Liverpool to Schipol Amsterdam for 39 Sterling, and my cab fare was 20 sterling---each way!

"If you cannot even keep yourself in the seat in an upright position then you cannot rely on any of the safety equipment to do it's job." Referring back to the white 240Z crash photos I posted, probably the thing that saved the driver from much more serious injury was the fact that he had fitted a proper racing seat, and harness assembly which kept him in the seat during the crash, and not slipping, sliding, submarining someplace during that time. I like wings that deploy at speed...with proper warpage I bet it really helps with that 'floaty feeling' at speed!

Most S30 owners are bottomfeeders when it comes to paying for parts. Coupled with a yen that is now 79 to a dollar, compared to around 300 to a dollar when these cars were new or less than 10 years old doesn't help either. Price goes up in $$ even though yen price remains constant. Take those Yen prices, divide by 268, and you will basically have the price in 1985...

FSM EM Section: "Removal of Camshaft" Reading beforehand can sometimes save extra work... Unless you were swapping external spraybar towers onto a newer head for the extra lube, or swapping internal lubed cam towers to an earlier car to eliminate the spraybar (instead of just blocking the lube ports to the spraybar.

that's an interesting development...

Are you saying you are somehow required to comply with CA Smog as an out-of-state resident running Georgia Plates? That was covered above pretty comprehensively.

More uninformed paranoia. This is not hard to comply, and as a servicemember you only have to comply with the FEDERAL requirements to get the sticker if you drive off-base. There are guys on Travis with 1978 260Z's WITH CARBS that don't have a problem...... But leaving is not a bad deal, the more that leave means more space for me. I've had my issues, but if you can't make a car pipe clean you probably shouldn't be messing around under the hood anyway! This isn't rocket science.

Be glad your carnage didn't injure anybody. When I lost the spider gear in a 71 Box Skyline, my buddy Lary Mason was standing obliquely from the launch point, and got part of the spider gear right on the right kneecap! Almost like getting shot by a mob hitman! He dropped, and picked up the offending part. While I was marvelling at the slick of Hypoid I laid in my driveway he limped up and said "missing something?" Shot that puppy right through the back cover! Killer thing about the whole affair....It was Larry's car! "I guess you needed a new differential!"

One of the quick-n-dirty methods of making a surge tank is to take one from a later model Bronco. That setup is basically the same thing that is on the inner frame rail of any later model Bronco II --- but with a bit more capacity and a fuel filter to boot. "Accumulator" is a poor choice of words from a technical standpoint when dealing with a fuel system---generally an 'accumulator' will have a diaphragm in it to soften/smooth out pulsations on the pressure side of the system from fuel pump or injector pulses. Make no mistake, this 'accumulator' is a surge tank. For the cost, that's actually a nice deal---if they have a longer filter for more capacity that would make a REAL nice setup! I'd reconsider mine out back with a longer filter. I may have to get one for dissection, I can get these filter units from one of our vendors for our compressors...nice adaptation of an existing product for a surge tank (better than the aquarium filter IMO...but in the same 'neat' vein!)

I don't know which troubleshooting chart was referenced, but 'starter whirs, but engine doesn't turn over' is a solenoid replacement solution, not an entire starter. The criteria may be slightly different with a gear reduction unit as they may use an older style Bendix Engagement, but the conventional starter has to have the solenoid engage and the solenoid pushes a fork to engage the pinion gear to engage the flywheel teeth. Does the gear jump out the nose of the starter at all when it turns? If not, it's off to the rebuilder to complain. If there's enough juice to turn the starter, there should be enough to kick-out the Bendix or engagement yoke.

A-1 Cardone makes rebuilts I've used in 3 different cars, and they are available for around $100...

Nope, a CA Spec 260 will require CA Spec 350Z donor components. How you will quantify this is beyond me. This is where the 'legwork' comes in... I don't know exactly what would qualify a 260Z as a 'CA SPEC', and my bet is that it would be classified as a FED car coming into the state, in which case the Michigan Engine Swap might fly during initial inspection/smog. If the 260 currently has CA plates....fix that quickly.

I would love for them to check my ECU... it may LOOK like a fed spec computer, but therein lies the heart of MS1... Some Euro Countries check stuff like that, and it was from there that I got the inspiration. Sweden I think was where the guy first did it, and posted to the old MS List on his deeds. Now they have PNP kits with all the connectors for the stock harness, it makes it easier than in the past when you had to scrounge ECU's and hack the wiring harnesses to make it work.

Yes, in that context "SWAP" would be correct, you have to use CA Spec Engines because it's a SWAP and not a 'replacement'... BUT, you still have that pesky NON-CATALYST sticker on a 49 state S30, and when that little thing exists it comes back to that pesky chassis component classification of the catalyst. Frankly they make it far more difficult in this respect than they need to do IMHO. There is a 49 state emissions spec, and a Cal Spec. If you have a Cal Chassis (easily determined by the absence of the NON CATALYST STICKER) then you pipe and visual to CA SPEC for the engine you install. If you have a Fed Chassis, then regardless of which engine you put in there, you should only be required to pass Fed Spec. The visual is a 50/50 proposition. That would make it very clear and woe be to the painter that destroys that NON-CATALYST sticker!!! They really should 'register' the VINS of vehicles who smog so that the next cycle they know it should only be tested to FED spec, and if someone tries to "Change" a car illegally it would be flagged from historical records. But that's what you get when you have a car guy with 154 I.Q. ruminating on the rules, and not some 75 I.Q. Forrest Gump BAR employee that got through school on the feel-good quota that year. But I digress into bitter commentary...

ain't been there in 26 years, I got no clue dude...

It was RS Okinawa, any L-Gata guy on Okinawa can send you to him. I never knew his name, I never had work done by him. I just waited for the scrap heads to be loaded on the truck and followed them to the scrap yard. Then I bought the damaged heads for scrap value (about 1000 yen each at the time) and have since resurrected three of them with bills well under $250 each---most for welding repair of dropped spark plug electrodes and some water jacket perforation when porting! Old School JDM (which I lived through firsthand) also included an eerily stock looking HKS Cast Manifold Log of Stainless Steel and external wastegate configuration. The turbo and manifold is hidden under the ITB's and Surge Tank anyway. Unless you got an RHD that can take one of the old takeoff R32 Turbo manifolds...and as we all know that is mostly a 'rice' addition as a single is just as efficient in that horsepower range. You really need to look at JeffP's Extreme 280ZXT Page on Anglefire, he was at 450 to the rear wheels on the stock manifold, and since then has far surpassed that point. You can spend $1500 on an old manifold that wont get you anything in terms of performance (RICE RICE RICE) or spend that same ammount on nice new CLASSIC JDM OLD SCHOOL looking 15X8 or 16X10 Watanabes.... I know where I'd spend the money: Wats all the way. The manifold is really a red herring, you really can spend your money on things which will give you far more payback. Hell, that $1500 could get an ITB setup out of Australia (or darned near close to it!) That would be far better than the old header. See you in the Sandbox... Das Island is on my schedule. Moldy shower, stained sheets, and no water before 1200... Gotta love camp living eh? And you thought you would get away from it when you left the war! LOL AFSC? or MOS?