Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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No, you have just taken what he said and turned it around 180 degrees!
ADVANCED means ADVANCED. You are currently RETARDED, and you need to ADVANCE your distributor just like he said. You don't change ANYTHING in the timing map.
The OPPOSITE of what you just said. One or the other, NOT BOTH!
Make the timing MATCH, then LOCK DOWN THE DISTRIBUTOR. From that point on, ONLY use the computer for timing changes.
I thought it was pretty clear from the posts.
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clarifing is not as effective as editing out...
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that flywheel is more balanced than the engine you will be installing it on in that case!
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Sorry it was kinda worded poorly. I was referring to the fact that the power created by the same 20psi is going to differ and the strain on the physical engine from power levels will be less. At the time my mind wasn't even thinking about the heat generated by the turbo when it should be the biggest consideration.
Sorry
OMFG, I agree with KTM, this is getting deep...
BMEP is BMEP
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have to agree, someone moved the distributor, once it's set ALL timing changes are done via input into the computer, NOT changing the position of the distributor!
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Methinks you are putting way too much thought into this.
Was your engine balanced previously?
The Kameaeri flywheel is a balanced unit of itself, and if your prior assembly was individually balanced it can be bolted on, just like stock flywheels don't need balancing on exchange from stock to stock engines.
The flywheel itself can be balanced, and exchanged from engine to engine.
If you want to spend some money, go ahead and take everything apart, and maybe get a couple of grams of imbalance taken out---likely on your crank, not the flywheel...
Really, look at the design of the unit: There is miniscule weight at the farthest inertial point on the flywheel. The less weight there is, the less there is to balance (or that needs balancing, or that can throw out balance...)
I've bolted mine on and I think your concern about crank bearing longevity is...uh...well, waaaaay over the top on what it is. What does that thing weigh anyway, like 8#? With most of the inertial weight in the first 7" from crank centerline?
Did you balance your harmonic dampner? If not, I'd not worry about a flywheel with less inertial loading that your balancer...
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I do have this alternate fantasy that involves trained monkeys and some corkscrews...
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It isn't, it's a grossly incorrect statement. You are correct Nigel. You are not insane.
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I have to be impressed, I have driven one of nine, and probably have seen at least three other distinct and different cars on the mainland with that head on them. Almost half the known worldwide production?
Somehow I feel that hard to believe. I have seen, personally, half the world's supply of TC24B-1's? There has to be more. I simply can't believe that low of a number.
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Tony D - "But like all things, people using a stock bottom end tend to be trying to get a lot for nothing. And cheaping out tends to make things break. Usually (I'd almost say always) from detonation." I dont see how im being cheap, by using the bottom end....that makes no sense to me... Im only changing the head for better flow, and a turbo set up.
Follow John C's suggestion.
Second, are you running or planning on running a full on WBO2 controlled Standalone EFI system with proper compressor bypass valve and full fuel system? You only mention hardware, nothing about the most important item on the engine: The fuel and spark control system.
The HARDWARE is not the issue. Fuel and spark control is. You can have a $15,000 bottom end, it's still going to blow when you try to run 8 psi on a stock N/A fuel pump and stock N/A injectors without an intercooler on a 110F day up a long hill...
You're spending money to spend money because you haven't a clue where to spend the money. It sounds good because this is what all the books tell you to do. But in the real world anybody who has been aroudn turbo-L's for any time will tell you it's everything OUTSIDE THE LONGBLOCK that makes the horsepower reliable. Bolting on a head for 'flow' is laughable---unless you are spending $2400 for a fully worked head with ports polished and matched. The different head won't make enough of a difference to be worth the effort (flow-wise).
Take this bit of advice: Save the money you intend to spend on 'bottom end improvements' and just leave it alone. What you put in there likely will be worse than what Nissan Assembled the engine with in the first place, and won't last as long.
Instead, take that money and put it all toward fueling and spark control, and learning how to tune it, on a bone-stock bottom end. You, like so many are obsessed with a PSI rating of the engine---which is totally irrelevant. HORSEPOWER GOAL will dictate what you need eventually. And from experience 400HP will be doable on a bone stock bottom end with nothing special done. The longevity of that build will be ENTIRELY dependent on what sophistication you placed into the anti-detonation spark/fueling delivery control system.
I have seen big dollar engines wasted from a clogged fuel filter. It gets expensive when you skimp on fuel control, and put money into the strongest link in the equation.
L-Engines don't need internal reinforcement, they need SUPPORT SYSTEMS appropriate for the horsepower level desired.
As this is rarely understood, people will spend money 'fixing what isn't broke' and then with no money left in the coffers, buy some cheap system, or band-aid their stock system trying to make horsepower. And things go boom. Like I said, you have obsessed on hardware, the most durable part of the equation, and mention nothing about the MOST CRITICAL OF THE SYSTEMS. You need to read. You're approaching this bass-ackwards. You want 20psi on a stock bottom end. To me, 20psi is something in the area of 600HP. To use a stock bottom end at this power level is astoundingly cheap, bordering on insanity of the delusional.
And that's exactly what I mean by "trying to get a lot for nothing, and cheaping out."
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Two 10" Hayden fans on a three core radiator without shroud was more than enough to maintain my 350HP Turbo 240Z.
The largest issue I saw was running a 160 F thermostat, and having the cut-in temperature set properly. If you wait for the switches to turn on at the preset 180 or 185 F, you are too late, and the spot boiling will happen after long highway runs when you pull off into traffic on surface streets.
My car runs at X degrees at 30 mph in 5th gear, my fan is set to turn on at X+10F.
Using this setting scenario, and a 160F thermostat, I have never had an issue with the engine overheating with a three core radiator. The fans will not run if I'm going 30mph or faster. It's as predictable as the sun rising and setting.
I described this to KTM, and he reset his switches accordingly, and his 'overheating in traffic' stopped. Remember whatever temperature you show at the outlet neck of the thermostat---it will be 20F higher at the back of the head. Once a small steam pocket forms from no / stagnant flow at the back of the head due to low NPSH on the pump, youre through!
If you want, put a 24# cap on the radiator to see if it helps, but generally a set 180F switch is FAR too high a temperature to work reliably in SoCal desert temperatures when coming off the freeway into stop and go surface streets. This is well documented in the archives.
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280Z hood would do similar.
And some 3" round holes under the brake/clutch cylinders and battery will work wonders without altering the exterior.
They do punch louvres in them as well...
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When you have no shame, the IRS shutting down your business is not considered a 'disgrace'...
No quick heart attack. I want him eaten by large cats unable to defend himself...
Now, imprisionment and impalement on Bubba would be a suitable purgatory. Once released, the first thing he does is goes skiing, and then gets impaled and eaten by wild animals.
That's even better. IRS Audit drawn out, and then placed in prison where the guy gets Bubba-Loved to the extent of colostomization. Which gets pierced when he goes skiing and hung up on the pine tree, so the infection can get him as well...
Thanks for that ZXToy! That adds constructively to the fantasy. How can I get his whole immediate family involved in it as well. I'm Italian, I wish them all Ill Will... Old Country Style!
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do it, dyno it, and post the results, then there will be no conjecture or supposition...
I could group my Mikuini Manifold through the ports and using tubing. I doubt any measurable difference will result.
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My timing is at 18 degrees. I'm running MSextra, fuel and spark via GM HEI... I wasn't sure my readings were right, i've looked again for it and haven't found any information on ignition timing actual values. I also feel like I can't do it by revving it up to 3k and adjusting the dizzy due to megasquirt adjusting timing differently than what the stock ecu should be. Also, at idle, yes I'm getting 950-1000 rpms but my vacuum is at 21mmHg. Also, my AFR's at idle when warmed up is about 13.1-13.5, and 11's on cold start.
Now one thing I do noticed when messing with the ignition timing of the dizzy, if I get too retarded, when you try to accelerate, you will get some sort of weird fire, and vacuum will shoot up to zero for a split second and you can hear it. I can't really explain it well. I was running it at 10 degrees earlier, and it idled in the 800's which i think is more accurate, but there was noticeably no/lack of power. Now with it advanced it runs awesome for power, but the idle being so high concerns me.
How did you get it to 10 from 18 without changing the bins in the MS? Read the bins in megatune, read your timing light, compare the two, they should be the same. If you're dorking with the distrubutor to change timing, you will trash your engine as you are moving the ENTIRE MAP when you do that. THE MS references the trigger, and once set, all adjustements are made from the MS Control Panel (Megatune)...
I agree with the last: READ ON MS! This sites MS Forum should give you more than what you need. You're shooting blind right now, and run a good chance of screwing something up but good!
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pretty sure hp limit is around 350whp on a stock motor with daily beatings.
Define that limit. 20 years durability? I've been at that threshold since 1985 and still have no issues with my NA Turbo Conversion. Probably 50K plus miles on it in that time. 26K of it driving daily as a commuter from Corona to OC.
The limit is based on detonation, NOT HORSEPOWER! 200HP will kill the engine if it detonates. STOCK 180HP will kill the engine if it detonates. The horsepower is basically irrelevant. You don't detonate, things won't break. Show me someone making 400 HP that doesn't detonate, and you will be amazed how long a stock engine will last.
But like all things, people using a stock bottom end tend to be trying to get a lot for nothing. And cheaping out tends to make things break. Usually (I'd almost say always) from detonation.
I would say 350HP will deliver stock engine longevity. I have no oil consumption, full compression after all this time. I don't detonate, either. I don't think 350HP is by ANY means any sort of a 'limit' on the engine.
It is if you want 100% engine reliability for 100K+ miles. Hell, who knows, maybe 200K miles.
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pistons will let go in every case due to detonation before the rods will...
sigh...
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Don't get me started, I've been drinking...
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My comments on the matter should be available via the search function...
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Bo, Bo, Bo, Don't hate me...man! The station now has E85 as well. A whole 5km from my house. How terrible is that.
heck, the boy has pushed the VW up from the depths of the back with the intention of using it to commute to school (UCR) this semester. I should be annoyed, especially of all the money spent on the 501 wagon to this point...but hey, it's the VW...
Two generations on the same vehicle. It's what I learned in. I have to smile (but not show it).
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My first inclination is to say 'both' but what the heck...
Buy the 240Z, and spend the money on a new AC kit and install it.
You will be within 300$ of the cost of the 280, with AC that works passably.
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What do you get below a tomb stone.........
Someone who keeps their mouth shut and never turns you in...
"One thing I miss is Cold Ethyl and her skeleton kiss
We met last night making love under the refrigerator light
Ethyl Ethyl let me squeeze you in my arms
Ethyl Ethyl come and freeze me with your charms
One thing
No lie
Ethyl's frigid as an eskimo pie
She's cool in bed
Well she oughta be 'cuz Ethyl's dead"
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I hate it.
If your having sex then you might be worried that others are watching and making comments about how bad your performance is...
Wow, that was diametrically opposite of the first thought I had...I thought they would be my cheering section, kinda like "MST3K Goes to 'What Gets Me Hot'..."
The soundtrack reverberates in my head now, over and over:
wika wika boom boom wikka wikka wow...
wika wika boom boom wikka wikka wow...
wika wika boom boom wikka wikka wow...
wika wika boom boom wikka wikka wow...
wika wika boom boom wikka wikka wow...
Why do doglegs rust? Can it be stopped?
in S30 Series - 240z, 260z, 280z
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It's simple design. the 'flaw' is inadequate drainage.
You will see that the inner fenders on a US Specification 260 and 280Z have plastic flaps inside them to preven road debris from being flung into places it shouldn't be. The original cars had drain flaps which couldbeplugged closed by mud, or in some cases parking under the wrong kind of tree.
Look at the door windows: they have 'fuzzies' on US cars, the datsuns had rubber wipers. What for? To keep leaves anddebris from getting INSIDE the doors and soaking up moisture---and holding it against an untreated metal surface.
The issue is that drainage of water is usually adequately addressed in these cars, but the issue of debris ingress was not, and in many cases the debirs accumulation in these areas will hold moisture and rot from the inside out. it was not uncommon to see people with high pressure washers blowing up into 'drain holes' in the chassis to dislodge mud, leaves, etc...
If you park in a garage, people think that is what saves you from rust. Only by the factthat leaves and dust can not get deposited into these areas! I've found parking under the wrong kind of tree will do in a car FAR faster than anything else. Small leaves, in particular, like to get into these crevices, plug the drain holes, and then you're screwed.
As for the comments on 10 year japanese car ownership, this is also true (Konish) so many myths surround this it's not funny. But it IS true that Japanese manufacturers AT THAT TIME looked upon a car as a 10 year appliance, and didn't STRESS rust prevention. Drainage, but not prevention. Driving around on Okinawa revealed mid-panel rust as bad as anywhere in the Rust Belt back home... They got better because they HAD to get better. But in the 70's across the board, they didn't put a lot of stress on corrosion prevention. And the Z's being lightweight had thinner metal than most. Go check and compare a 76 celica fender against a 76 Fairlady and you will be amazed that you can physically measure a significant difference in metal thickness!
Additionally, much of the inner-fender plastic cladding used on the US cars was NOT installed on the Fairlady. My 77 S31 does not have inner fender liners like my 77 280Z. Why? Weight, and perceived domestic market expendability of a motor vehicle. Seriously, in 1987, when these cars came due for Road Tax in April, they FLOODED into the scrap yards. I watched and almost cried when I saw an ORIGINAL Fairlady 240Z (HS30) get scrapped for a slight wipe down one side. The yard paid the owner 5000 Yen. Which was all ANY car with expired road tax, and expired shaken-Sho is worth at that point. It was COMMON to simply take a perfectly running car down to the scrap yard and turn it in for scrap value, and go get a new one. it's a clutural accomodation. I ended up with a brisk business transferring cars from Japanese Friends to Servicemen because I would give 2X the price the scrap yard would (10,000 yen, like 33$ at the time) and then would have a car dealer process the transfer through LTO and sell the cars all day long for $500 and $600 with a one-year Shaken-Sho on them. For a short-timer, it was a perfect deal, and he could resell the car (at 11 or 12 years old) to another servicemeber for what he bought it for, and THEY would run it thorugh another inspection for $300. You got a car for a year for under a grand, insurance included. What a deal.
I digress...