Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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If they know they won't sell parts off of it, chances are good the whole car will immediately be pulled and set aside at an offer of $500 to $700. Sometimes once it hits the yard they are resistant to sell the complete vehicle, but it usually only entails re-issue of a salvage title and they have to sit on it for a while. Of course the car will have a salvage title then, but who cares? You already have proof of where it was and what it looked like!
In CA they make a big stink once it's in the yard due to DMV recordkeeping and reporting / tracking requirements. But I've gotten them pulled with enough cajoling of the manager on site, or with insistent calls to the yard OWNER! I lay it out for them: You get $X for scrap. I'll pay $X+200 and processing/transfer/title fees set it up, I'll give you a cash deposit now, how much do you want to hold it? Cash talks to these people. Scrapyard owners aren't millionaires for NOT moving metal, they are millionaires BECAUSE they move metal!
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yetterben just blew his whole S30 sales wad on quads and now will be totally kicking himself in the butt when he sees this!
Matter of fact, to rub salt in the wound for his impetuousness, I'm going to e-mail it to him now!
I would say that yep, that's a fine example of an old RX2 Capella... I wouldn't mind adding that to the hoarding in the back yard.
I could occupy the space next to the Opel GT
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Having those front wheels pulling instead of underwater on slippery algae and mossy plant growth makes for a nice uphill climb! Sandbags over the axle may help somewhat. Whatever you do, remember to undo the ratchet straps that hold the pontoon boat on the trailer BEFORE you back into the water!
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"no that is NOT the criteria of the swap.... that makes no sense. My point was that nistune is not available for these the 280z ecu- one would have to- as previously stated swap to a z31 ecu. OR one could just swap to a gm ecu. I will NOT be retaining my stock ecu when the car is modified for any reason. "
Then why did you mention it in the first place? I said Nisstune, you said 'Nistune don't work on my stock ECU'---ergo, You can't use Nisstune, inferring a dependence on the 78 ECU. I don't see why you mentioned it other than to make a non-sequitur in this instance...the whole flow of the conversation has already at that point obviated a different ECU, ALL of which (Nissan Based) will work with Nisstune. That you want to parse the meaning of the installation is beside the point (daughterboard allowing on-the fly burns and changes as opposed to physical chip burning outside of the case after hexidecimal hacking....) (I guess)
As for that spooner attitude on the R200, since nobody has posted the obvious and he mentions 'wheels hooking'...:
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During this Holy Season of Ramadan, all this talk of bacon is offensive...
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Can you afford the claim raising your rates for the next three years?
I may report it, but not file a claim. If I were her, I'd pay to have the bumper painted and paintball the damn intersection cameras that influenced your decision to stop short. That way nobody's insurance rates go up. For an accident repair less than $1000 it's cheaper to pay it up front than to report it and then pay an increased premium for the subsequent 36 months. Seen that happen before!
In California they are now starting to remove these cameras as they are realizing they influence traffic FLOW. Plus, the revenue stream they supposedly were to generate doesn't materialize in many cases. The incidents of accidents ADJACENT to intersections is going up where these cameras are in place, while intersection accident impact (the stated reason for installation) seems to be generally unaffected!
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I think he was stating the total weight was 2K with trailer. I could see that with an a-frame boat trailer. The 4WD on the CRV should pull any floating rear end out of the ramp area... I have seen fullsize 2wd pickups get floaty and not be able to get out of the ramp area whereas a 4X4 720 (some old datsun with a Z24 engine) launched a 19 ft bayliner with aplomb.
The real insult was when the guy with the old datsun asked if the guy with the C30 needed a pull up the ramp!
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Wow, so the criteria for the turbo swap is you wish to retain your 78 ECU now? Wish that was stated earlier.
Like it was said before, you need to read some more. Especially about your R200 which you don't think can handle the torque of the V8...
As was stated, this is all well-covered previously.
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If you indeed were at 10.5:1 and uncatalyzed, there should have been a distinct black soot coming out the exhaust during that timeframe. The inside of the tailpipe would be black at that time as well. If you didn't see any black smoke then that lends credence to the error on the dynos AFR calibration. Did you see him do a free-air calibration before he started the run, or at any time during the runs to recheck the sensor? I guess it's a moot point now, but generally you hit 10.5 and you will definately see some smoke. That is the limit of most WBO2's, the dyno we were on had a Horiba which we were comparing against, and it was dead on within 0.1 on the AFRs. When we showed 10.5 flatlined, they were sometimes going to 9.3! Having that extra span helps when you are doing initial pulls and need to rough-in the curve.
Good Luck on the tuning. I'll stick with clickety-clickety if at all possible. I did my time sitting backwards while someone else drove WOT down back roads!
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In my experience, anything over 300hp in an S30 and you better know how to drive.
That goes for 150hp.
I know from my experience with wide tires on a street-driven S30 sans-cage (no comments, please) that an honest 350 turbo horsepower can break your windshield. The possiblity of hyperspeeds (if you have the stickies) will dictate some sort of aero. You will have more than enough horsepower to give it up to drag to keep it on the ground. The possibilities will be exciting to see with some hard downforce and big HP to keep power down into and out of turns. If for nothing else a large acme-screw boost controller like the 917's had for different parts of LeMans, it simply said "600, 800, 1000" arrayed around the boost knob at roughly 120 degree intervals!
What it was for is simple: On the technical portions, turn down the boost and get torque response for the twisties, but in preparation for the big straight turn it to 1000, hammer the throttle, and pray to gawd you are pointed in the right direction when the boost hits! Doubling the horsepower with a single twist of the wrist.
Gotta love the turbo! (This is, BTW, how Electramotive kept the car together to win. If they had to make up time, HORSEPOWER! If not, dial it back to keep just ahead of the competition!)
I believe it's eminently possible, and look forward to in-car multiple angle herocam shots!
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I don't think it is possible to get 700rwhp out of an L28, if you can do that, well, please do tell us how.
Purely uninformed comment there. It is well known that the Electromtive L28ET was advertised at 750HP, at 21.6psi at 7500.
In matter-of-fact, the number was closer to 1100HP, at higher boost and rpm numbers. The car was capable of lighting the rear meats onto the back straight at Riverside, and perpetuating that to the next corner. Driver commented that it was the first car he ever drove that 'Met the Granatelli Criterion'!
There are a couple people here will over 600 in street cars, and one over 700 on C16 in his street car.
And they made more than that in the 80's in Japan for Drag Racing.
Don't underestimate the L28, the Myths are far underrating the actual Legend.
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The XTerra is only rated for 3500 with an automatic, LESS with a manual. You were towing 4000#, what did you expect?
A pontoon boat might be overdoing it with a CRV, but it all depends on what terrain you are going over and what speed you expect to attain. Towing capacities in the USA are a JOKE and totally based on litigation avoidance! I read the owners manuals when I get vehicles overseas, and christ in australia you caould tow half the continent with a Holden Astra... But the same car in the USA would be rated at 1500#.
Loading and total vehicle/trailer weight is more important. The general rule is never tow a trailer that weighs more than your car without brakes on the trailer. If you have a properly loaded trailer, and functioning surge brake, or electric brakes on the trailer, then you aren't working the tow vehicle's brakes as hard and going slightly heavier would not be an issue. Personally I don't tow anything that weighs more than my Z if I can help it. I have towed another Z with mine (flat towed) for considerable distances. Done it with more than the Z.
Just don't use overdrive, and if it's for a longer distance, consider cooling upgrades. If I was going to tow on the interstates and not local roads...I would consider more work on my Z for anything more than the 800# trailer I usually drag on long trips.
I would say for local tows you will be fine, especially if you have trailer brakes. For longer distances I'd use a real truck.
I tow my 6600# 20' trailer to move it around the yard with my wifes Frontier (Air Shocks!) but would not take it more than the5 miles to the weigh scales, I got the dually for that!
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I got pulled over on Emergency Leave in 1986 back in Michigan by a county sheriff. Says he got me on radar doing 65 in a 45. (In my VW Microbus, uphill!)
I looked at him totally shocked and incredulously asked:
"In THIS?!?!?!?"
Deputy took a step back, looked at my bus, said 'Yeah, I guess you're right! Have a nice day!' and went back to the cruiser and started fiddling with the Radar Gun.
I was doing 65. I had a turbocharged 2110CC Blowthrough Engine in it at the time that made probably 250HP. But images die hard, and..."It's such a quiet little car, and so cute!" Muahahahahaha!
Speaking of Huntington Beach, they are preparing to assess a $300 "Crash Tax" as the local talk radio screamers are fond of tagging it. Basically, if you aren't from the city, and are at fault for an accident, they bill you for the emergency response.
I can see this one in court: "I didn't ASK for them to come, I didn't AUTHORIZE this response. Why should I pay? This is like stamps sent to me 'on approval'---I didn't solicit it, didn't WANT it, but they (under color of authority) FORCED ME TO SUBMIT TO THEIR TREATMENT. I was fully capable of calling my own tow truck, my son could have come get me!"
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We could institute a GUNS-N-ROCK-N-ROLL Policy, but it may conflict with the no-politics rules...
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The guys in Regina just have to cut me a P.O. and this time I'll drive over instead of fly direct!
(Worked at the Co-Op for a couple of weeks in June...)
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It works upon the same general principle as a steam eductor. If you have ever been on jobsites with Coppus Air Coolers this is a high pressure converted to low-pressure high-flow device. They are used extensively in industrial plants to cool machinery or personnel. A small 12 or 17mm hose feeds a larger annulus that induces ambient air and mixes with it using JT-Effect Cooling to drop the ambient temperature and deliver low-pressure high volume air out it's delivery end. Maybe 8 bar goes to the device, at X SCFM, but it produces 40X the SCFM at 1 psi or lower, at maybe 20C lower temperature than ambient air inducted for the amplification!
For the Demand Expander Theory, look here:
This is how an Eductor Works:
This is the Device most popular for the automotive application, the Air Amplifier:
Air Amplifier Sales Propaganda Link
How the Air Amplifier Works:
How consumption and usage is dictated:
Now, that link directly above shows a 1:152 amplification ratio, and that shows that if you have 120psi and can deliver it fast enough, you can with 6 scfm flow make well more air than a 3 liter can consume. The limit on this amplifier is that it can't have more than 2" restriction on the downstream side. There are other amplifiers which don't have this restriction, but knowing the effects of 'ram air' and what 2" of WC Positive pressure can have on torque even that little bit can show some interesting bumps in performance for short-term gains. The smaller the engine the easier these become to employ as storage capacity can be lower. ALSO note that not only does this produce positive pressure, it COOLS the intake charge. While an N/A application can make small gains, using one of these to pre-charge a turbo at 2" WC and radically dropped inlet temperature conditions can really make a difference in turbocharger efficiency, but I digress....
To take it further, though, an air booster from Bimba isn't practical for this application, but it is a neat little device for someone needing line boost at point-of-use in an industrial setting:
I will agree with Ron's statement that the original schematic as drawn wouldn't result in any boosting. But some quick-dump solenoids and proper amplification and the general principle does have practical application. I would liken it to me drawing some cavement throwing lumps of uranium ore at a larger pile of ore. No, nothing will happen except cancer...but refined a bit and it makes a "BOOM!"
Lastly, and finally, here is a link to the Coppus Venturi Coolers---these things are lifesavers in the tropics or in a steam plant---copius (!) ammounts of cool air come out of these, they have amplification ratios that are outrageous and I know for a fact they will build pressure if restricted---enough to shoot basketballs some distance if you do it right! Or golf balls in the suction end... Generally they give around 9" W.C. static blocked-tight discharge pressures, but like anything with the proper eductor design, sized properly for the flow you expect to make, static pressures can be considerably higher with some loss of amplification. These things are at something like 40:1 and are made to flow, not necessarily pressurize. Drop those numbers by 1/4 and you realize your static pressure should increase by a factor of four, minimum.
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Learn this trick:
Harbor Freight Tools Digital Automotive Multimeter goes on sale for $9.99 occasionally. Buy one and keep it in the car! I have a small one I got in Australia which is VERY nice, and fits in the glovebox---a bit fatter than the normal compact calculator. When this kind of stuff comes up, having even a $9 cheapie meter is a lifesaver.
I actually have one in most of the cars, like half a dozen! Keeps me from fretting my $450 Fluke will draw attention and result in a broken window one day as well!
Good to see you found the issue. Didn't sound battery, sounded production related.
One thing to realize is that the regulator (external) will FRY ALMOST IMMEDIATELY if it looses ground while powered-on. I ALWAYS put a coiled-wire pigtail on the foot of the thing with a sheetmetal screw and star washer---and I connect this to the chassis ground someplace nearby. That way, if I forget to power off the car when removing the regulator, or the bracket it mounts on (in the 260/280Z) I don't fry the reg again! It also lets me put the regulator up on the fender and do probing if need be, without being upside down or with my fingers near a whirring alternator fan.
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At around 10.5:1 AFR you should be getting visible black soot out the tailpipe. It may not produce optimum horsepower, but it won't hurt as much as most think. Running to a 5% HC content gives a very forgiving torque curve and makes the car driveable, though not as economical in fuel mileage. For racing this is not that critical, and the car is far from detonation.
The humidity and heat will affect air densities and fuel ratios. Running a chiller box on the fuel line will have similar affects (more dense fuel mix, atomizing and droping air temperatures in the manifold somewhat) but that is way down the line.
Really, what you want to do is find a local dyno to do a baseline, and return to it for comparison of changes. If you can swing it, and have all your ducks in a row, renting it for a day for $500 - 800 may sound expensive, but will allow back-to-back comparos of timing, jet movements (needle position changes), float levels, and even Cam Timing. You can really dial it in.
Failing that, this is an N/A car and doing this on a deserted level stretch of road is not out of the realm of possiblity. The newer GTECH PASS system will give you repeatable results which you can correleate to most WBO2 dataloggers for pretty accurate front-end comparison and tuning, saving several hours on the dyno.
I spent the better part of a month one summer taking suction piston station height readings and comparing to CHT and EGT to get the needle correct on a Turbo Corvair back in the early 80's. You guys have no idea how much easier it is to tune these days with what is available.
And how much easier it is to do with EFI!
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With enough people out there pre-nisstune hacking the stock Hexidecimal EEPROM via romulator and prom burners, I'm surprised someone would come up with that kind of a comment.
Xnke is 100% correct, Nisstune gives you a Megasquirt-Like interface and the ability to burn the prom on-the-fly.
And you are correct, there is no 27 pin EEPROM. They all have even numbered legs...far as I know. Why would it have to be 27pin specific? By GM-Sense of the word I meant that GM puts a PROM-Holder on the ECU Board, allowing an EEPROM change in the field without exchanging the whole ECU. GM thought ahead. Ford chose to have a field flash programmer.
Now, everything is available through the OBD Port and is reburnable that way---CONSULT can do the same thing with Nissan Boxes. You don't NEED a replaceable chip to have a programmable EFI system on your OEM ECU. On the older stuff, it just made hacking the Hex easier by reading the files, changing values, and reburning/replacing the chip to see what changed.
But that was the stone age, Eh Gimli Boy?
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these cars are seen to be and ugly old car where i live and most ppl i talk to on international forums tend to think the same way sorry but it seems most people have no interest, me i think they are pretty cool :>
This is coming from a guy with 1973 Dodge-Sattelite-Lookalike Kenmeri's as his photo signature? I must say you know your unliked cars then! It's the voice of unapreciated and unliked from afar!
I love how superficial and opinion-of-others driven so many of the posters here are...it's the sheep that rule the style police. The wolves eat the sheep daily but are decried for savagery.
I am but a noble savage, and I'm a glutton for mutton! Baaa-aaa-aaad mouth the guy's car all you want. He did something different. I praise the noble savage as he walks head held high amongst the bleating sheep of conformity!
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Voltage test on the battery after starting, without revving, should be 'low' maybe 11.XX volts to 12.9 volts.
Check alternator, likely will be the same as battery.
Give the car a quick blip of the throttle (excitation of alternator) and then check again. Voltage should be 13.8 at the battery, and at the alternator output terminal (negative meter cable on negative battery post).
Run RPMS up to 2500 or so and check again. Alternator voltage should be 13.8-14.2 or thereabouts. Battery should be the same.
If battery is not getting voltage from alternator, find broken wire/fusible link/etc.
If alternator is not exciting and getting to 13.8 and staying there, alternator/regulator is your issue.
With a severely discharged battery you can toast the new alternators and regulators if you aren't careful. I just did this at the Skunkworks, left the lights on all day came back dead as a doornail. Ammeter went halfway up when revved (and idling voltage was around 12.9 against an original battery voltage of...uh...single digits...) stayed there all through my three hour drive to the club meeting, and then after a two hour rest started kinda slow but about 30 minutes down the freeway with the lights on, the meter went back to 'just right of center' like always and it's been fine since. If the battery was 'dead' and wouldn't start the car at all, I would expect the ammeter to be halfway up for a little while until the battery was back up and running. A bad diode will drain the battery overnight...see if you have AC in the system---it can kill your lights, and if you had EFI the ECU as well!
I found a 240 recently which had great alternator voltage, but nothing to the battery. Damned frustrating, but realized the guy that modified the car for all the nice gauges (and did the internal regulated alternator harness conversion) likely neglected to tie the two ammeter wires together when he removed the ammeter! D'OH! I put an 8 gauge wire from the alternator to the battery and the car drove back across the country from the Left Coast with nice bright lights...
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Uh, yes there has... you just solder the chip (or if you are spunky, the chip holder) onto the board.
They are chippable, just not in the GM sense of the word.
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If the float bowls were emptying due to lack of fuel flow, the AFR wouldn't be able to go from 14.5:1 back to 10:1 in the span of about 250RPM at 5500RPM or so.
That dyno sheet just looks wrong.....
I could if the operator lift throttled and dumped a gob of unburned HC down the pipe... And that is exactly what I would do as a litigation-wary dyno operator when I started seeing the AFR do that kind of thing!
Ever watch the AFR on a stock SU car when you drop throttle with and without the throttle closing dashpot on the balance tube? BIG difference in HC jump on drop-throttle above 3K rpms. I'm betting this car does not have AIR Injection or a Throttle Dampening Dashpot installed...
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Actually the best 'trick' for installation is spelled out pretty well in the FSM along with a physical drawing/photograph of what angle you want to use to drop it in and get it all lined up.
My trick is lubricating everything before installation, and using two of the window rollers on the outside of the door like the JDM cars used---keeps the window from rattling like it does in US Market cars. You can see the cutout on the door skin where the roller clips further back. US Cars got one, JDM cars got two. They are the same roller, you just have to scrounge some extras off doors in the JY.
A Great Project Mazda RX-2 Pictures Included!
in Non Tech Board
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You mean a bridgeported 13B(T) is simply not compatible with that car? You HAVE to put that old 12A in there?