Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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The only thing 're' on that car was the pigs squeal...
That is one of those trucks you revel in taking to Super Chevy Day.
Like the 67 RS/SS Camaro with the Nissan Titan V8 in it.
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The value of my stock of 240's just went up by 600%!
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D'OH! I saw "DCOE" not "DHLA"
But the same goes for Dellorto, they sell shafts. But skip to the end for another useful tip.
Weber / Dellorto shafts are MUCH different than Mikuinis. The Mikuinis were MUCH easier to tweak and where they had the 'flats' machined is where they liked to 'twist'... Generally guys would use to wrenches on the nuts on either end and tweak them at midthrottle and then let them reseat to see what result was achieved. Mikuinis would stick in the throttle barrel if you backed the idle speed screw out and then had heavy return springs and stiff linkages: they would slam shut and STICK CLOSED. At least one would. The one furthest away from the throttle linkage.
Dells and Webers are a different animal as they have nice ball bearings to run the throttle shaft, and it seemed to be of a better quality material not prone to twisting.
All the above being said...
Check to see if your Dell has an equalizing screw. Some models of DHLA came with little screws that would allow bypassing of air around the throttle plate to allow idle synch when the plates were not 'equal'... it's not right, and the car will idle higher as the other two carbs need to have the same flow. But they did have a mechanisim built in to equalize flows between the barrels of the same carburettor. Some do, some don't. You would have to search for the photos or get a Dell tech manual to see the screws I'm talking about. If they aren't there, the divots for the drilled passages are still in the casting.
No, I wouldn't try to retrofit the devices if you don't have them!
Good Luck!
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I could get 17mpg, or 5...all dependent on my right foot.
If you see black smoke, you are at 10.5 or richer on a non-catalyzed L-Engine (pig rich).
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"I could see the guy in the Z hanging by his seat belt and ducking his head as the car came down. This image is stuck in my head. His head and shoulders appeared to be well past the doors and rear hatch."
You seem preoccupied with 'head'...
Depending on your outlook on life, that could be a "Good" Accident.
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One important question is to ask how fast they spin the driveshaft to balance it. That adds to the cost. You do this because the driveshaft rpm varies based on u-joint angle. So, the transmisison output may be spinning at 3,000 rpm but the actual driveshaft speed varies from 2995.9 to 3004.1 if the shaft is at a 3 degree angle. Getting that balanced right is really important.
At the first shop they laughed when Andy and I walked in and told them we wanted our 2+2 driveshaft balanced to 10,000rpms. We walked out and went to IEDLS (Inland Empire Driveline as Hoov mentions) they had no qualms about our balancing request at all, and the aluminium shaft was done for less than the quotation in the O.P.
And yes, it has gone that fast, plus some... It DOES make a difference!
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Weber sells throttle shafts...IMO that is the easiest route.
You can try to untwist it, but I doubt you will have much luck.
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displacement displacement displacement
You, too, will understand how wrong the myth is with that combination.
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Make sure the diapers don't get snagged on the torn uphoulstery, that makes it easier for me to get out of mine at the end of the day...
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Money is not an issue....
Book a first class ticket to Japan, and the world of the L-Engine is at your fingertips then...
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Yeah, that's the article, "580 HP at 7500rpms, and 20.6psi" what a laugh! Talk about totally fabricated numbers!
The numbers were far higher than that, as was their engine rpm capabilities.
I'd not seen that link on the 33 car and the President 4.1L TT setup, though. Will have to read that on the plane tomorrow! Thanks.
Oh, and there is a 'link' someone made. There's little 'links' to much about this, it was all on paper at the time, and then...apparently...forgotten!
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I like that parachute release lever...I gotta get me one of those!
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I would think you would need better exhaust and intercooler to see noticeable gains from megasquirt.
You think wrong... The drivability and throttle response of a bone stock 280ZXT is like night and day with even a basic MS Tune on the car. It also allows you to 'fuel safe' for the 10psi non-intercooled common boost-up.
It's a real toss between proper exhaust and MS though... Problem is the longer you stay with the stock EFI system, the worse it will be when you do the conversion to make real power. If you do the MS straightaway on a mild engine (stock turbo) you not only gain the experience and comfort level of tuning on a rock-solid platform you already KNOW runs right, you get a concrete apples-to-apples comparison for what kind of drivability gains you get doing a conversion.
Do it on a bodged-hacked ECU with 12psi and an intercooler with all the goodies that has been inaudibly detonating for the past 10K miles, and when an audible detonation happens and the engine goes 'poof' you blame it on the ECU and Tuning, instead of the silent killer you never heard but which was working at it all along.
Standalones are a fact of life these days, as much as changing to an aftermarket carb was in the 70's for American Iron. The longer you put off learning about it, the further behind you will be. Tuning a MS primes you for any other standalone. The concepts are the same, and so is the tuning process. Best to do it on something bone stock, and build from a base (and then get a good idea of what changes happen when you start changing other things---you can then add that downpipe and SEE the fueling change you have to make!)
Start with mechanical changes, and you make something that the stock ECU can't compensate for... Think about it-over 3500 on boost, how does your stock ECCS adjust your fuel? Answer: It doesn't. The stock system starts running lean at the top end...you will see the ability to add fuel up there with the MS will make a BIG difference in the way the car performs.
Just my thoughts...but the thought that an MS needs intercooler and other crap is just plain wrong. Put that MS on a bone stock car and you will be AMAZED how responsive the car becomes. It's like it's a different car!
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I know that the stock rods are forged and quite strong but I have personally seen 3 engines with rods sticking out of the block. It was probably the bolts that let go but the rods were bent to hell too.
I've see a hell of a lot more than 3, and have to concur with John C, the rods are not the problem, it's people re-using old bolts, pulling the bottoms out of the cast-piston pin boss....
The L-Engine can literally throw cast pistons off the ends of a stock crank / stock rod combination.
It's just whenever I see people specifying 'forged rods' when referring to Nissan L-Engines it makes me tend to think of the 'parts batch amalgam' Honda guys rattling off a list of things that sound good, and who really haven't done a lot of homework.
100 HP/Liter is doable if you don't have to conform to sanctioned racing event rules. There are L24's out there with that kind of HP. It's a different driving experience than a stroker, though...
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at least you didn't run over your own parachute cord...
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Guys at Riverside Muffler were running 9.40's at LACR on what they said was 'that little damned datsun differential and spongy back end setup the 240 came with' Had a nice photo on the wall, too...
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Oooooh I like that door opening mechanisim!
Nice run Gary. I see you parked just in case you had to go afterwards...
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BTW, "NISMO" does not necessarily mean 'AFTERMARKET'---those Nissan Part Numbers are for S30 Chassis outside the USA. Much of their offerings back then (and even today) are simply offerings of STOCK parts offered on STOCK vehicles outside the North American Market.
That bar came stock on a 1977 S31 Fairlady Z in Japan. I know, that's where I got mine!
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Uh, yeah, dude you're putting it on BACKWARDS!
It goes (as the exact same bar -4622) fits on MY 1973 240Z: in the stock swaybar mounts under the driver's and passengers seats!
You are mounting it as an AFTERMARKET bar goes on an early 70's US Specification 240Z without the factory mounts. This bar mounts exactly the same way as a 260-280Z Bar fits.
The bar crosses under the differential snout and driveshaft flange area--you should still be able to get your driveshaft in and out by popping it hard enough and the bar springing to the rear (or use a large prybar to let the driveshaft slip through.
It does not cross behind the differential, it crosses IN FRONT of it!
Your 73 should have the mounts for the bar already there (part number 28 in Geezer's second photo), all you need to do is get the proper diameter 22 (they are available in Urethane from MSA for the 25mm bar, at least they were) and a 21. The #21 you can get off any 260 or 280Z. My chassis number was 156466, so if your 73 is around that production date, the mount for it should be there!
I had a good laugh, though. Thanks!
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That is not Halal! Perhaps one day though, through the miracle of science:
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Apparently everybody here does NOT realize the stock Nissan L-Engine Rods are ALREADY FORGED!
(And coincidentally, I can personally attest they are good to an RPM number quite a bit higher than anybody in this post has discussed yet... Let's just say "9,999rpms PLUS")
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You trying to build a tractor?
Ugh, where did that uninformed comment burble out from? Yeah, a tractor like the Honda S2000 Engine (take a look at it's specifications before making such ill-informed commentary!)
STROKE has an impact on TORQUE and that's about it. If you think it somehow limits an engine's ability to rev you are sadly misinformed!
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I was going to say somewhere in the 85-86 area if you are bent on using stock rod journal diameter...
If you go with smaller diameter journals, then offsetting the pins even more on the 85mm crank can be done. It's really a matter of rod clearance. It's not like you have to cut your cam face lobes and clearance the base diameter of the camshaft to clear the counterweights...
I think 87 or 88 may be possible on that same crankshaft from Kameari if you offset the pins 2mm and use a rod diameter correspondingly smaller. Welding on cheeks to existing rods to keep oil throwoff is not a biggie, they do it in Japan all the time.
Actually, for $5K that's not too bad a deal!
Pressed vs. floating rods
in Nissan L6 Forum
Posted
We put teflon buttons into our PRESSED PINS on the Bonneville Engine because when the pins started moving and scored the cylinder wall 0.080" on all six cylinders we figured the miniscule thought of the possibility of wear in the walls caused by teflon rubbing was more than offset by the fact that the pins are HARDER than the TEFLON...
You can always leave more clearance so they don't actually TOUCH the cylinder walls, they only come into play if the pin starts moving.
Generally on full-floaters it's the choice BETWEEN either spirolocks/spring ring retainers OR teflon buttons.
Everybody who said "I've never seen that happen to pressed in pins before" also said they never heard of teflon buttons put in to act as insurance, either. But after seeing our engine apart, they agreed that it was a viable insurance policy against recurrance.
You can make anything, just a matter of having the tools, or the money and a willing machinist. Want PTFE? I got 2" Diameter rods 20 feet long. Like 100 of them. They spin down to pin buttons real easy like if you have an Atlas 6" Lathe!