Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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Hockey, whassat? Like Soccer on ice?
(Ducking)
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How in living hell did you get into the basement of my cottage in michigan?!?!?!?!?!
No joke, I spend my 'vacations' (four years running now) working on rectifying those photos. I could send you snaps of probably 75% of the stuff on that link from my own basement.
My relatives simply would say "It's working, why are you messing with it?"
Yeah, perhaps if you guys didn't drink as much beer as you do while thinking this crap up, I'd not worry about sparking my own immolation during my time here every summer!
Truthfully, I KNOW the people who did this stuff in my cottage. And they are constantly amazed how I can show up for two weeks a year, simply flip a switch and start enjoying the place.
Hell, they lived 80 miles away and NEVER came up for a weekend without SOMTHING going wrong.
Then again, they laughed at my powerpoint slides on winterizing and working the water system there as well... "If you're too stupid to make it idiotproof, perhaps you should pay another idiot to do it for you!"
I am 'that other idiot'...
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I routinely remove all extraneous wires added by "PO's" to "fix" electrical maladies, and wonder of wonders once I've restored factory wiring....I find no problems.
Wonder if the same goes for houses?
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I have always used an interrupt switch from Ford Products (Tempo-Topaz have them in the left rear corner of the trunk, Ranger Pickups under the mat on the passenger's floorboard).
I bolt them to the bulkhead where the wires go through the floor on a 280Z for the stock electric fuel pump. If you get hit hard, or roll over this switch will trip. You simply reset it with a push of the big red button on top.
Curiously, it's the same part Pegasus Racing sells for crash/rollover pump interrupt as well! Looks the same at least. But boosting it from the junkyard is cheaper and you can dissect the wiring harness on the trunk mounted location to get at least one meter of heavy gauged wire on all the connections...it's almost enough to go from fusebox tap to fuel pump.
Not that I'm cheap or anything!
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I'm probably pushing my luck asking which version of the e88 you are using on that car and what attributes of the cast led to the choice of the cast over others? (compression, flow etc?)
(Still in korea? How is it? I'm envious, I've never been but was hoping to drop over when I visit japan again at the end of the year)
-pete
The only thing this head has in common with a stock E88 is that the casting number says 'E88'...
Welded combustion chambers (14.75:1 CR), Tuliped Valves (oversize), ported intake and exhaust tracts. It was formerly on a GT3 Car before we took it over and put it into Land Speed Service.
Korea was warmer than I'd expected. So much for my Arctic Parka I brought. Machine was inside as well, not what I was told. There goes 8kg of shipping storage in my bag... I will wear that damned thing on the plane back to LA to recover shipping storage for books this trip! But got to go back to Korea, so no shipping of a G-Nose on this trip
No time for shipping it to the hotel, nor a direct flight for only one check-in. -
Not to hijack, any reason that brass nuts cant be used on the exhaust/intake studs? I just took manifolds off of an l28 that I recently picked up that had mostly new-ish looking studs and brass nuts with a flat washer molded in(with "teeth"). Twas easy to remove these nuts. Would brass loose their torque value as opposed to steel units? I use them on exhaust connections with great success!
Are you sure they were brass and not discolored stainless steel units? The flange-nuts I use are a yellowish 'brass' color when I remove them, and have the 'teeth' underneath them. I prefer the flange nuts to nut/washer because the teeth are very effective at keeping them in place, and don't contribute to a small part falling off when reomving the parts later during maintenance...which you then have to go look for on the ground someplace.
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Yeah, assuming proper thermocouple calibration and instrumentation, 1800 would seem to be a bit high.
There is power to be had running on the ragged edge of 'too lean' but it has to be 'worth' the effort. If you are constantly drifting into detonation and beaking things, or burning valves, then is the extra 15-20HP on a 600+ HP car worth it for a non-competition engine?
That would be an interesting charting and dyno exercise: Tune to maximum horsepower, REGARDLESS OF EGT. But recording it.
Then, using EGT as the basis for further experimentation after the power curve was optimized---go back to retune the engine to a given EGT across the board and see what the power gain/loss was.
As you can quickly see without much thinking, tuning to a 'set' EGT accross the board is as ludicrous as tuning to a 'set' AFR----which was the point of the SDS article.
EGT is a 'maximum limit' based on components and metallurgy, but nowadays should likely only be used in that fashion and not as an ultimate tuning tool.
Curiously I'll chuck this in as well. Our stationary engines ran 1100F. We had Electro-Pneumatic Air Fuel Ratio Control Panels, which the 'lead' mechanic dorked around with to make the engine 'run smoother'---but which resulted in us running 12psi of boost on full load, as compared to the normal 17.5 psig (as a standard inlet manifold temperature of 135F). Within 12 hours of running like this, 12 of the 16 precombusion chambers had been burned out totally---their glowing stinless steel globules deposited on the exhaust valve stellite facings, resulting in 14 of them being burnt (I have two of these valves still in my posession, if you ever stop by the house I can show it to you!
)The net result was that by richening the mixture, the internal combustion temperatures went up to a point where things literally started melting. We decreaseed the mass flow of air into the engine, while the gas volume admitted remained the same (cam actuated gas admission valves through an orifice plate), so in that instance 'richer' meant 'hotter' while lean meant cool. But this was an EXTREME case. Like I said, the engines ran at 22:1 AFR in the main combustion chamber, and the precombustion chamber would run around Stoich and blow fire into the main chamber to keep the superlean (low emissions) main chamber burning. If it went the way physics tells us, the precombustion chamber went SUPER rich. I don't recall now if we got T.I.T. or any EGT alarms 'high'---I don't think we did till cylinders started dropping. The EGT monitor we had (by Altronic) monitored all 16 cylinders for EGT high, EGT low, and EGT Differential of more than 100F between all cylinders scanned. It also monitored T.I.T and TOT, but we didn't have alarms setup on that system. The turbo ended up going on that fiasco as well. It was the final straw in the 'lead' mechanic being transferred to another facility and me just being let alone to hotrod those big muthas as I saw fit (made 2500+KW on an 1875KW rated set! WOO HOO! They wondered how I could take a 6 hour maintenance down, but never seemed to impact gross production numbers...muahahaha!)
One of the old operators hated me, he would always watch me operate the engines and gas them to full load quickly and start chortling and huffing "Hey man, take it easy! This ain't no Z-Two Eighty!" Ahh, Fat Jack, I wish him ill...
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I did in my VW Kombi...
A catalytic propane heater as well, but it would crap out if the temperature was below -40C, the propane wouldn't go gasseous at that temperature, it would stay liquid. Useless Propane!
Then I had to use the gas heater and loose 2mpg on the freeway. But the heat was instant, and volouminous!
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"Have no idea why the engineers came up with this! "
Think about it...
Engine operation below 400 rpms with the key in the 'on' position, no electric pump operation.
Perhaps you've hit a tree, and broken a fuel line...
Do you REALLY want your electric pump dumping the contents of your fuel tank on the ground underneath you while you're unconcious and bleeding?
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We got two versions of the E88 that I know of offhand.
L24 on the 73 240Z
L26 on the 74 260Z
I don't believe we got an L28 with an E88, but I know that is what we are running on our Bonneville car (E88 on N42 Block).
The late Don L. Potter preferred the E88 over any of the other heads for Turbo applications. He's dead now, and I can't talk to him as to what his logic was, but he was producing winners using that formula.
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I put H4 Lights and Capsules into the car about a year or two before driving to the Convention in Canada in 2001.
This past December, I started up at the airport after being gone for 7 weeks, and no lights. Changed the fuses, and got lights, they looked good, but had the 'pullout' common to older fuses. Within two weeks I lost my left low beam, then my right low beam.
I put stainless steel tape over the top of the lenses and drive with my high beams on...
I also complained to the vendor, about his cheap bulbs only lasting 10 years on low beam!
I got two new capsules sitting in the back of the car right now as it sits at the Ontario Airport (Sunrise Parking)---you can see the boxes on the back parcel shelf area. Complaining helps sometimes...
After 10 years (who knows how long yours have been in there) the filaments may indeed have gone bad. BOTH the low beam filaments went out on mine within a WEEK of each other. Both installed at the same time. Both failed almost at the same time. I would say within HOURS of each other actually.
So if you're terminally cheap like me, you know you never drive on high beams, so use those up too! Hell, I may be able to go another 5 years like this before I have to climb under the fender and fuss with those damnable screws again (which I replaced with 3mm Hex Keyed Stainless Steel Button Headed Cap Screws...woo hoo! No rust, antiseized, and ready to come out but I still don't want to climb under there. Maybe I'll get the Boy to do it for me...)
Filaments aren't as unlikely as you might think...
ALSO REMEMBER THIS: You can't poke your multimeter to a general ground and check voltage---this will give you power everywhere, but still no lights. You HAVE to put your negative on the referenced negative for the headlight (they put power in, and switch the grounds to the filaments). This checks the voltage the bulb actually sees. You can also check the headlight ground circuit this way.
Personally, I'm not installing those new capsules in my car till I get the Painless Wiring Harness for the headlights, and run a set of relays for them. I'd suggest you do the same. The combination switch is now $400+ new (if you can get it) and whatever you have will last A LOT LONGER switching the coils on a headlight relay, than the power from a 55 watt incandescent (or halogen) bulb as a direct switch. You will notice your lights are MUCH brighter using auxillary relays as compared to using the chassis wiring. With the relays you can change your 'headlight fuses' from what they are now to something like 2.5A---just enough for the relay coils.
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You can buy the header flange alone from MSA, and have it put on your uncoated header and have something like the Japanese have made for 35+ years: something that fits the first time both on the head, and down below.
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+1 on that!
I haven't seen anything residential that wasn't black and white on the 110 lines. Any other colors are usually low voltage or other control/telecom wiring.
Check your wires to make sure you have copper, and not clad aluminum. That house would be in 'the folly years' and if aluminum take precations to make good connections and etc. Aluminum wire in the walls is a BBQ waiting to happen, IMO...
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How coincidental, I have just arrived at the following coordinates and will have 2 days free before work commences:
35 16.301N
136 15.970E
I was supposed to be here for three+ weeks, but things changed and I will only be here for a week this trip, but will have to come back in Late April (er... after MSA, gomen nasi!)
Yes, the key is to see if I can source where Kameari gets their billets, or see if they will sell uncut/unground billets.
This is my mission...
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That header flange is NOT the same thickness as the stock intake flange! If it were, you wouldn't have to grind a step in the washer!!! The EFI and the Carb flanges are THE SAME thickness. You can swap EFI onto a head with a carburetted exhaust manifold withotu changing the washers... because of this! Cannon may not be casing proper thickness, but Nissan Flanges are damned consistent on their height installed.
The stock flange is close to 12-15mm thick (REGARDLESS OF EFI OR CARB!), what you have there is maybe 8-10mm thick at tops. Hence the need to grind the washers.
Look at the proximity of the weld to the edge where it clamps as well---if the washer is on the weld bead it will be hard to clamp, or fit the nut on it.
Pacesetter does NOT (as far as I know) use the proper thickness flange on their headers---never has. Typical American Produced header flange, used the same thickness as they did on the SBC. Some of them would have tabs of scrap welded on top from punch press operations which made the flange 1/2 thick, but placement was iffy...
Clamp with flanged bolts to keep decent press on the bottom of the intake manifold. Using stock nuts and lockwashers you will run the risk of bending the cut down items.
Regardless of how long you have been doing it, it's a result of someone manufacturing the header flange too thin---a correctly manufactured flange (such as on a Trust, Greddy, or now MSA) will the identical in thickness to the stock cast iron manifold, and will not need alterations to the washer to 'make it fit'...
IMHO, this is a step you should not have to do. For what they charge for the headers, they can put the proper flange on it! Others do, and have done so for over 35 years now!
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Well 1650 for T.I.T. isn't really out there, if you have the valves to handle it, and the turbine wheel is of proper metalurgy.
I know our stationary engines which were 'lean burn' natural gas ran 22:1 AFR,s and a consistent 1100F T.I.T., which was identical to the EGT found on the exhaust elbow.
T.O.T. would vary, but was usually consistent being it was a stationary, fixed speed, variable load engine. Turbine Delta T was a derivative of the load being applied to the engine. The more load we had, the higher boost we would run, to it's wastegated point, at which point the Turbine Delta would start increasing to it's normal point near full load of 2100KW (which was around 15% overloaded...)
When I started looking at Gasoline-Fueled rich burn engines, the difference in EGT was something I had to get used to... the Rich Burn Models of our same engine would be around 800F EGT!!!
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See the EBP unused never installed for $8, or new in box for $89, not bad at all...
My recollection of the results are fuzzy at this point...who knows what happened.
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Frank, you crack me up. Could I borrow those tape from you to fix some of my problem?
You can borrow mine, it's certified duct tape! I'd sell you some...
Oh, I see donating members are the only ones allowed to post classifieds now... Cool. i'm going to donate so I can sell my certified duct tape to people far and wide.
Did I tell you of the time I wore an onion on my belt? 'Twas the fashion at the time, and we called Turkey's "Walking Birds"...
Hmm that magical 30 post count doesn't mean much now. Good.
I digress...
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"The smaller valves were deemed to be an advantage (by me) over the stock L28 valves which are heavier... With some attention to this, a very high revving valvetrain could be achieved on the E30, coulped to a bigger cam profile to take advantage of this rev-ability, which was also deemed acceptable to bleed of some of the cylinder pressures at low rpm's which could have thrown the engine into detonation."
Nik the idea that 'L20A Valves are Lighter and therefore will rev higher than heavier L28 Valves'
This L20A is running 'heavy' L28 sized valves, and our shiftpoints are WELL below what we have actually run the engine up to testing valvetrain stability. We have not floated or lost valvetrain stability yet on our engine... And we have stock, unlightened, un polished, generic nissan rockers on this engine as well... Don't overthink this stuff...
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What are those ITB's? From a Bike? I was looking at stealing BMW ITBs since they sit out in the open and are rubber mounted, so with my Leatherman it would be easy pickens in most European Cities when I visit...
But if you can give me a better thing to target (and it looks like you can) I'd like to know specifically where they came from!
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"This is SPARTA"---did a quick handover to another engineer, and hopped a plane to Seoul...
one day, pete, one day...
The Japanese politely told me they will be doing the two weeks worth of work I planned on doing this month at the 'end of april' Yeah, MSA time? I think not, Dreamaru-San!
So that means I will be home in about two weeks (huh, that's what I thought in Sparta...)
So that is the plan. i may have some JeffP torture photos on the phone or on the laptop, maybe those will work. If I can find them...
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WOW that was fast Tony, don't you sleep over there.
It's 0115 at 'home' in SoCal. But I'm not there....
I'm in Seoul Korea... where it's 1815.
And being in Denmark you're only a half a day behind me...
If you have an E88 Head, I'd likely use that. It's dependent on if it's an L24 E88, or the L26 E-88. Some differentiation of the combustion chambers.
Unless you are willing to spend the time to make the chambers you want by hand...the E30 will be a lot of work.
For someone making a full on race head, an E30 may result in some more 'labor' time for hogging out ports, compared to an E88 or N42 head... but you won't be welding on the combustion chamber, and since you're changing to big valves in that case anyway it ends up being a net savings using that head. Plus, no welding warpage to worry about!
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Putting in larger valves without the corresponding intake runner diameter increase? That seems like a lot of work to just strangle it. The combustion chambers are going to be what? Maybe 40CC's? On a 458CC bore? 11.45:1 compression...
I think bigger valves cutting the chamber larger will knock that down minimally, but that's pretty high for RON gas... 95 R+M/2 might fly in the heat, but RON only may be a tad pingy...
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Casting number is really a more a matter of what was available to the builder than anything else.
With the work needed to make a proper head, it really won't matter much which one you start from...
No time for shipping it to the hotel, nor a direct flight for only one check-in.
Fuel pump / relay issues. 280Z
in Fuel Delivery
Posted · Edited by Tony D
Seriously, if the 'EFI Bible didn't help at all' then you're missing the obvious. A case of not seeing the forest because of all the trees in the way!
Think about what you said: "The fuel pump worked fine after we hit it with a hammer a couple of times."
Why on earth would you blame a power relay for a physical blockage jamming up the fuel pump?
Sorry if I missed it, but you stated (or not) that the power is being interrupted to the pump, this is why you suspect the relay? Is this it, or just a grasp?
What controls the relay (EFI BIBLE) --- the AFM switch contacts in some cases. If the bypass has been dorked with, and there is not sufficient AFM Flapper angle, the contacts may be intermittently opening when a plug misfires (yes, the RPMs can be affected enough to do that!) and that will shut the power off to your pump.
Revving the engine to 3-4000 rpms likely cleaned off plugs which were wet-fouling due to incorrect bypass setting of the AFM (EFI BIBLE) and then when you returned the engine to idle all was well again. (see how this stuff works together--incorrect bypass/flapper angle/fuel pump operation/idle speed/misfires due to bypass screw bing set rich...)
Perhaps only turning up the idle speed screw on the TB will move the rpms to 850-900 and see if it continues to happen.
But at this point, after taking a hammer to the EFI pump to 'get it working again' perhaps, plain and simply, the thing is crudded up or worn out to a point where it's in need of a replacment.
But "EFI BIBLE USELESS"? Only because the trees were in the way! Only because the trees were in the way!
All my post above is a direct result of drawing lines of reason between circuit functions and component functions as described within the EFI Bible. This stuff isn't rocket science, don't try to make it that hard. And in the same vein, not everything is solved with a hammer---it may have a symptom revealed, but it wasn't FIXED!