Tony D
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Posts posted by Tony D
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THANK YOU Z-HAG!
Five pages of this, and it takes her to mention the most AWESOME cartoon character on the face of the planet:
FRITZ THE CAT
People who visit my house are easily 'age betrayed' when I introduce my black cat, simply as "This is Fritz".
Some give me 'oh pretty kitty, pet-pet-pet'
Others look at me sideways, and do a verbal doubletake: "Fritz?"
Meh, just to add one someone might use later on, since I'm a fan of this style of artwork:
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the last time I dyno'd my turbo Z was more than 10 years ago.
I made 404whp at 15psi. Custom headers, custom intake etc....
with all the new turbos nowadays, I think I can make 460whp on pump fuel (91 octane).
At last, a blast from the past!
"Junior Member" oh those mods are such a clever bunch.
I'm in the same boat, using old 80's turbo technology I was 325-350 when dynoed in 1989 and again in 1991. That was the last time I did it.
And that was using carburettors! With what I have sitting in my shed now, the 'reconstruction' is expected to yield at least as much as Hoover is discussing. The ability of a smaller turbo to flow more air and make the horsepower on a properly ported head is light years ahead from what it was 10-15, oe 20 years ago! (Gads, has it been that long????)
I have to agree with the last couple of posts, in an S30, that 300 real HP is scary fast. It's also at (IMO) the limit of being usefull around a track. More HP will give you straightaway possibilities, but the brakes are not up to that kind of speed envelope for an extended period of time.
I see you mention you are in the PI. That's a big country, are we talking Zamboanga, Metro Manila, or some Abu Sayaaf controlied enclave in some remote island where you are practicing plural marrige and various sundry other things? Corruption in Manila? You don't say... 2,000,000 pesos for a roof on the house and you end up finding out the contractor was using your construction fund to remunerate the local codes enforcement people for other jobs they were 'working through the system'... That's like leaving the immigration stand and they notice you don't have an entry stamp (what was it they stamped then when you came in is your first thought...) Luckily being large and looking capable of eating the average fully grown Pinoy at a single seating with Adobo Sauce, they tend to just stamp my passport and let me be on my way with a 'now you in, now you out!(BIG SMILE)' and the next guy repeats the process...but ends up palming some $ for the priviledge to leave the country.
So, PM me with your mobile number. If you're in Metro Manila I'll probably have a couple of days layover coming and going from Brunei in late March and Mid April (coming on PI Airlines via Manila) so if you have a Fairlady Z, we can meet up and have a Red Horse or two!
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Ke yu ku ku ku ku ku ku!
Take off you hosers! And now my brother doug will detail the bitchen modifications we made to our ride, Doug?
Eh, Good day!
(Good Day, eh?)
First, forget all the stuff you guys learn about car customizing from that other Red Green guy, and take it from the McKinzie Brothers, cardboard and fibreglass resin and some beer is all it takes to customize your car.
(Yeah, eh, lots of beer.)
Yeah, lots of beer. Cases. Kegs. Truckloads, eh?
Oh, and now to comply with communications guidelines, lets repeat this all in French.
"Angh Angh Angh, Eh?"
I digress...
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Yes, there are botique casting repair places that will make the euro manifold in 321SS, but their setup cost was quoted to us at 6-8,000 US$ plus a minimum run. A single part would be much higher.
For what you get out of a stock manifold, the talk of the tubular stuff is being relegated into the realm of theoretical nonsensical overkill. I would posit the expansion joints in the Euro Manifold is all you need for extended longevity in a cast manifold.
BTW, as to the quote earlier about the 'tubular header being bigger and flowing better' ... WRONG (at least in the case of the Nissan Stock Euro Header...)
When JeffP measured my Euro Header against his cut open in the middle of another rework SFP POS 1 5/8" Tubular Header he noted the STOCK NISSAN PART WAS LARGER IN THE FRONT PORTION OF THE HEADER AND MOST OTHER PORTIONS THAT COULD BE MEASURED.
A little porting of the head/manifold entrance got that very close to tubular dimensions. If you want something BIGGER than stock, you will need to use something BIGGER than 1 5/8" heavy walled tubing.
BTW, JeffP made very caustic and sailor-like comments when this revelation was uncovered. My virgin ears bled, and I fled his Bat Cave-like garage crying he was so foul. You can tell he spent time on a ship when stuff like this happens.
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800 HP, on Carburettors... Think about that for a moment.
We now have EFI! That seems to be a hybrid system, but 800HP from practical application.
This is 1980's technology, boys and girls.
As for times, don't know the times. I know in the 80's full bodied ZX's were running 11's with a four barrel draw through system. It was not a big thing in the USA to drag race imports in a pro-arena due to class restrictions. In Japan it was commonplace.
If someone did it, they were a 'hidden fish' in the NHRA competition arena. Without a big platform place to showcase technology, it was just a 'non-consideration' in the USA.
Comprende, Mate Amigo?
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PAYE---much resistance to such a common-sense approach such as that here in the USA. That is a reason to Emigrate to NZ alone. That and the 40 million sheep... It would make my job much easier if I could do it that way. But that 'fixed income' thing is what gets me, like if you make more, a fixed rate shouldn't apply. Argh, it's tax time and I will have to write out another check for the cost of a car. There was a time I claimed 'exempt' and just gave it all to them at the end of the year. Fair is fair, and there were no surprises. And it made me aware at a young age how 'withholding' really snows people.
I'd probably say it like this: If I have money left over after paying my taxes, I will probably pour some more concrete to get them off the dirt and onto something that won't be 'breathing' moisture up under the bonnet each morning. I'm to the point in the back yard now where that might actually happen. With the price of metal buildings coming down, I'm going to level a pad, and then depending on the quotes I get (and what the Permit Costs are) I will make a decision on a Container or Metal Building (Roof at least) to get some shelter.
Now, if I had all the money my wife and I paid in Taxes to put towards this effort... the local depressed economy builders in the area would have at least one major cash project to build!
Oh, and the money is already set aside to paint the blue turd. The gaskets and rubbers came to the house already. I have a four day window in which to get the car stripped and over to the paint shop for work before I head to Korea and Japan for the better part of a month. Then I got maybe a week to put it all back together before I got to head to Brunei for three weeks on a commissioning job. By the end of that...it's MSA time. And then a job in either Canada or Texas. Whatta choice! LOL
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Looks like $108 plus shipping from Wolf Creek.
Far be it from me to undercut his pricing.
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When was the last time anybody here was under full boost for more than a minute, and WHERE so I can go there and do it too!!!
Water has a latency effect, you can get better cooling if you know your duty cycle. For a street car with short bursts of the turbo you can get by with considerably smaller components than a air-air deisnged for the same approach temps.
There is a reason industrial compressors run water exchangers and not air-air when you get to a given point. The coolers simply get too large and cumbersome. For the time you are on boost, the latentcy of water allows for thermoal loading and then a smaller exchanger to reject the heat between boost excursions will work just fine.
For Bonneville, ice tanks rule the day because they get stuff cold. But that's not normal.
I'd also put at least a small swirl pot to the high point to add water, deareate the fluid, and act as a suction point for your pump. Ford Lightning pump from Bosch is a nice unit.
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On the trip to ABQ one year, working 'sweeper' in the Moby Van (White Chevy G30 Mobile Machine Shop.) I come across a belt laying in the middle of the road, ON FIRE.
Make the call over the CB 'EVERYBODY CHECK YOUR ENGINE GAUGES!'
Nobody reports anything, as we all ditched at the nearest exit to do a quick underhood check. I look at my wife's 260 (The Blue Turd) and see nothing out of hte ordinary. LAter at the convention our alternator goes away (solder melted off the back of the diodes...) Whilst in there, i notice I'm missing the AIR Injection Pulley Belt. And there are also pins that have machined themselves through the back of the AIR Pump. Seems it just seized, and then the belt got upset and burst into flames as it fell off the car underneath (no splash pan!)
It was a distinctive belt the size of the water pump, laying there in the middle lane of the roadway, putting up a small trail of rubber fire smoke... I wish I had a video, I can see it today in my mind's eye! LOL
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(Ditto)
Waitaminit, you get money back?
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alan beet me two it! Dam!
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He was typing with five fingers on the keypad, and five fingers...er... well, let's not go there!
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Typical Guido lookin' fer a fast buck. I already asked if he has his negative reversed. There are no 'Authentic Fairlady Z's' that aren't RHD.
And yeah, they're Watanabe Rims.
I sent the ad off to a particularly unstable friend of mine---he goes bonkers when people claim they have a Fairlady since the badges say so. This guy (in the ad) can't really think that, I mean... damn!
"WHAT CONSTITUTES A FARILADY Z?"
Apparently the presence of the badging. I call "GUIDO!"
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John,
BE HONEST!
Go back and read what he wrote, guys. Tell me EXACTLY what items of clothing he said he was wearing.
SUUUUUUURE they were scared by the mask and hammer.
Some guy comes out walking with an abberant dwarved leg hangin' dressed in a human skin leather jacket, a welding helmet, and carrying a hammer and I'd scream too!
Now remember I basically work out of a hotel. I get insistent housekeeping doorknockers. Loud ones get me to the door right away. You think you're scary, try cooling off in the tropics with only a ceiling fan over your bed... Then this KNOCK KNOCK KNOCK at the door that you don't hear. Groggily waking out of a heat-induced slumber you stand up to face what you think is an opening door and hear this blood curdling scream and say "What he hell do you want?" (Scratch, Scratch)
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several on the 'map'...
Tawas/Alabaster for a couple weeks a year, driving through Grand Rapids on the way up and back, usually.
Other than that, I came to my senses years ago and went with sunny warm weather year round, and abundant employment opportunities. I visit, because I'm employed.
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Tony, where do you get to drive, in SoCal, at speeds in excess of 85 mph continuously to find out that your cooling system isn't keeping up?
Driving to Phoenix on I-10 across the desert through Palm Springs going 82 will not have me being the fastest rabbit in the pack by a long shot. Cross the border where the speed limit goes to 75, and you can bump the tick a couple of notches and the DPS will maybe flick their lights at you from under the overpass they are parked, but they will wait for the 'truly stupid'...
The Palm Springs Incline is used by MANY OEMs during the summer for evaluation of the Hot Weather Performance of their vehicles. Similarly driving to Vegas 85 would make me a moving roadblock... The stretch through Death Valley from Baker, up into the Valley, then in a loop around back to Vegas is also another "hot weather proving ground" for OEMs, and it's within a hours drive from the house as well. Anywhere north on US395 behind the mountians through Trona and into Death Valley will be lightly policed and wide open...AND HOT! You can literally go naked in the middle of the road pissing in the wind and stand a great chance nobody but the spy photogs for the car rags will ever see you or snap your photo (er.....) Please note that in these particular circuits, driving a LEGAL speeds will get the car HOT! There is a reason OEM's come here, it can have thermal layering through the radiator in excess of 180 degrees on a 110F Ambient day, and going across some of the valleys 120F ambient is not unheard of, I have seen Infrared Gun shots in excess of 140 in some places, and don't even want to kneel down to take a thermal layer reading. I hang a thermocouple out the window at speed and try to get it about halfway down the door away from the car in open air for a temperature reading.
Once you hit West Texas, the legal POSTED speed limit is 80...
I can and have driven from Tawas Michigan to my house, a distance of just a hair under 2500 miles in a total elapsed time of less than 30 hours. Significantly shy of 30 hours DRIVING time. Hell, significantly shy of 30 hours total ELAPSED time!
And my WIFE was driving the overnight stint!
Started at 4PM Tawas Time after my wife's cousin's high school graduation party in Alabaster Michigan, drove to St Louis, Oklahoma City and stopped for Dinner at the Big Texan in Amarillo. Continued on due to gearbox trouble to Flagstaff AZ---where I awoke in the morning to find my wife doing a high speed draft on AZ DPS. Turned south to Phoenix when ominous sounds from the gearbox were emanating, and made it into the driveway around 7pm the next day, California Time.
In that time frame, we stopped to eat at Amarillo for a solid hour there (considered the big texan, but had eaten nibbles in St Louis so wasn't up to it...) and other than that drove at speed on the freeway from tank fillup to tank drain (about 2 hours straight) and then a 20 minute pit stop for driver change or other 'necessary' evacuations.
I don't know many endurance racers with Z Cars that run that high an average speed for that long! And that was TOWING AN 800# TRAILER WITH THREE PEOPLE IN THE CAR!
Some people say I'm 'extreme' but I don't think so, this is what the OEM designed the vehicle to do...and it does it. Many of the 'improvements' people make to the car....AREN'T!
You can do it too! Head out to Brisbane or Adelaide in February... that should be a reasonable accomodation for testing. Bring water...
Oh, and the year prior I took a slightly different route through Las Cruces (2545 miles) and start to finish total elapsed time was 36 hours. I drove that one myself, with my kid a co-pilot. We visited Roswell... Anybody up for a mano-a-mano cannonball? I've been out of training for a couple of years now...but I'm sure I can get back into form really quick! LOL
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That Time? What does the 1/4 mile calculator make that out to be horsepower-wise?
If someone does that calculation, there will be some humble-pie eating people out there!
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(THIS IS CONCURRENTLY-POSTED FROM THE SURGE STICKY AS I THOUGHT IT WAS APPROPRIATE TO HAVE IT ON BOTH THREADS)
I have run across a guy in our company's design engineering department that has a Z32 Twin Turbo. Indeed, the control technology DOES now exist out there now to control the BOV as a true 'unloading valve' meaning at low flow/high boost situations (higher boost, lower rpm engine demand) the BOV opens and vents exxtra flow to allow the turbos to spool up in a stable portion of their map and not surge on the way up the rpm band.
Big Phil seemed to be having an issue like this, and my recommendation was to try and get a boost control valve set up like this, I just didn't know if one was currently available. It is, and they are electronically adjustable to dump excess flow overboard so you can run hellacious flow turbos at lower speeds without low-flow surge, and take advantage of their better high-flow high boost characteristics 'up top' in the RPM range now. It has a total PID loop control apparently, allowing for variable dumping and staged blowoff.
I have this guys e-mail, so I will get some details on the control system he set up on his Z32 to prevent low-flow surge on his car. He said the way the car pulls now dumping extra flow overboard is FAR harder than it did when it was surging and trying to develop more horsepower lower in the RPM Range. It allows you to run a much higher boost much sooner in the RPM range without surging.
Cool, huh?
This technology appeals to someone like me who will run a turbo at Bonneville, as I can now consider a FAR larger turbo flow than I would have otherwise considered, and simply blow excess boost overboard at lower rpms (say below 6000rpms) to keep the turbo flow stable and allow a higher boost level for more power (traction permitting). It is also applicable to Big Phils situation in that he's marginal low-flow at some points of his turbos flow curve---if he could simply vent some flow at that point in the rpm range, he could keep 22psi on the engine, and pull harder than he otherwise could (the other alternative is to run it at a boost level where it doesn't surge)
The hardest part of controling turbocompressors is people equate boost to flow. They are separate entities working against each other. If you can dump flow, you can run a higher boost lower in your engine's rpm range and not get the honking surge like BP did. On conventional controls they only relate to boost pressure, but if you use a controller that references rpms and can control an overboard dump for flow, you begin to have total boost/flow control. It also makes wastegate control much easier to handle---and your turbocharger starts operating in a more limited rpm range near peak efficiency, rather than up down and sideways all over it's curve during engine operation. Get it up and spooled, and keep it there, dumping excess flow when necessary to keep the flow stable at whatever boost you choose.
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I have run across a guy in our company's design engineering department that has a Z32 Twin Turbo. Indeed, the control technology DOES exist out there now to control the BOV as a true 'unloading valve' meaning at low flow situations (higher boost, lower rpm engine demand) the BOV opens and vents excess flow to allow the turbos to spool up in a stable portion of their map and not surge on the way up the rpm band.
Big Phil seemed to be having an issue like this, and my recommendation was to try and get a boost control valve set up like this, I just didn't know if one was currently available. It is, and they are electronically adjustable to dump excess flow overboard so you can run hellacious flow turbos at lower speeds without low-flow surge, and take advantage of their better high-flow high boost characteristics 'up top' in the RPM range now.
I have this guys e-mail, so I will get some details on the control system he set up on his Z32 to prevent low-flow surge on his car. He said the way the car pulls now dumping boost is FAR harder than it did when it was surging and trying to develop more horsepower lower in the RPM Range. It allows you to run a much higher boost much sooner in the RPM range without surging.
Cool, huh?
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Holy Necropost Batman!
I was reading the last page here and was thinking 'sounds like the wastegate is hooked up backwards' and as I got to the bottom---apparently it was!
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BTW, thanks for that link above. I was unaware anybody here had dealings with him before. I forwarded it to someone I know was considering using him as he's getting desparate for some HP Hookup for better times at the track.
Desparation leads to bad decisions. I can only hope I wasn't too late.
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Yes, the heat transfer may not be as good (this may necessitate a larger rejection side of hte equation), but this is offset by the nucleate boiling depression. If it stays adhered to pick up the heat and transfer it to the rejection device (radiator) then it will cool better than a 'more efficient' transfer medium which experiences thermal separation caused by runaway nucleate boiling.
It is apparent that the L Head has some nucleate boiling tendencies, so trying the alternate fluids may pay off if you can build in excess rejection capability (multi-pass four core radiator perhaps) to reject the heat it does pick up.
Does that make sense? While it transfers heat poorly, because it doesn't nucleate boil, it ends up taking more heat out of the head than a better coolant would due to it's boiling tendency.
That all being said, Electramotive cooled 1000HP in Endurance Competition with straight water, so it IS possible to do without the exotic fluids!
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specificity, my good man, is the groundwork on which all competent engineering analyticals are based...
A.K.A.
"Vague Questions return Vague Answers"
Muahahahahaha!
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The McMeekin Brothers S13 is well over 215mph last time I checked.
Then again it has an Oldsmobile IRL V8 in it.
Paintless dent repair before and after.
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
We had a Paintless Dent Repair Tech come and do a presentation at our car club meeting. He chose the presidents Z31 to fix (smart choice...LOL) and then spent 45 minutes taking out myriad small dings dents, and etc while explaining the process and showing how it's done.
People were amazed, and unlike many people who are slightly insecure about their talent, there were only a couple of people who thought they could do it. The rest were convinced that there was no way in hell they could replicate that work, and a lot of business was garnered that day. With the speed at which the guy worked the dents out, explained the processes, and pitfalls, what could and couldn't be worked in a reasonable fashion it really made sense for many members to have him 'unding' their otherwise perfectly good painted car (in some cases with nice factory paint still remaining) rather than pay money for a respray which is ALWAYS visible.
To have a paintless dent removal guy go over a recent late-model purchase, and then take it to a professional detailer (detailer was $350) I flipped what formerly looked like a beat up car for well more than $3000 what I bought if for and paid to have the work done. The paintless dent removal and detailing took two days only because I used separate people, in different counties. It was the difference betweeen a car that looked haggard, and one that looked like it was new off the showroom floor.
Firm Believer in the process and technology. WELL worth the money if you have an original classic in original paint that can be buffed a couple of times yet!
This was the 'art of metal working' in the final stages before lead and bondo became widely used. You CAN get metal straight. I have hard enough of a time doing it bare. I don't even want to try with the paint still on there! My wife chose a 'discount' PDR guy (not my normal dude---grrr) to do some work to fix a repair after the Boy used the Dually as a fence post mover. If she would have used my guy the cost would have been double, but I would have never known it happened. Now I will have to get my guy to come do some glue-pulls as mentioned above to clear out the dents. I actually will have PDR done before taking the truck in for a respray. Other than the Boy's little dent, the truck was ready. Now back to square one. Find someone by reputation, and prior customers. There are plenty of good ones out there to waste time on a bad one who is cheap!