Tony D

Hey, it was as much to see if the 'octane booster' really did anything at all, and to confirm something other than filling my tank with 100 octane VP Racing gas (at $7 a gallon for COMMUTER DUTY) would indeed solve the knockies. If the Octane Booster didn't work, the double-check would be gritting my teeth and doing a 100 Octane Fillup. I mean I do it for MSA Weekend, but doing it to merely drive to and from work is...yeeech! Kinda over the top, eh? Just had to confirm that there was nothing mechanically causing a problem that wouldn't be cured 'no matter what'---more data supports more logical and pertinent conclusions. I mean, the stuff was effectively adding $1 a gallon to my cost of fuel. Had 'OFF ROAD USE ONLY' emblazoned all over the can, so I felt real good putting it in the tank to drive to work. Like running C16 'just because'! "I commit my Weekly Crime!"

Your conclusion was about in line with my reply: marginal oil allowed the forces to lunch one lobe...while others may not have failed...yet! I think you understand the forces at work here, now. Sinister Forces. I am Dyslectic anyway ZDPP ZDDP...MEH! One reason I go for the ZDDP is that I lived through the Phosphorous phase-out in heavy diesel oils for Landfill Gas in the early 1990's. "New Oils" came out, different formulations where the oil manufacturers touted this new package with superbatches of this or that to work 'better in your specific application'. Long story short, the high phosporous Pegasus we got from them didn't last WEEKS in the engines we were running, and we went back to Good Old "Blackstar 450" which when we were runing low acid fuel went for a year. Then it was down to 6 months as the acid in our feedgas went up. Eventually we were getting TAN (total Acid Number) of 4 within a quarter (three months) of running. It was at that point I started experimenting with various 'additive extender packages'. The Oil OEM was upset, they mentioned it in every Oil Analysis. But fact of the matter was through close oil sampling (weekly), and additives we were able to go back to 8000 hours on our oil changes (we're talking over 1000 gallons for an oil change, plus around 12 gallons per day of normal 'consumption' while running!) All we did was add that portion of the OEM additive package that was being depleted by our high acid content. Additives generally are NOT something I will add to the oil, but when it becomes obvious there is a problem due to OEM Additive Packages being either deficient, or depleted, it's a way to extend oil life, or make it so damage (in my case it was bearing etching) does not occur to the engine. I believe ZDDP is a required additive if you can determine the additive package is deficient from your oil's supplier.

You want a nuanced language, try negotiating with Japanese, or Chinese. Understaning what they are semantically saying is one thing. Understanding what they are meaning, culturally and functionally...is something totally different. "Yes" doesn't mean "Yes", they just said it because it's what you wanted to hear. Getting upset with them when the deadline is not met doesn't do anything except reinforce within them their preconceived notion that you aren't in control of 'rational understanding of how things have always been done'! "We Digress..." LOL

Seafoam has been around for eternity...where were you Daeron? LOL It's in my 260Z right now, matter of fact!

The camshaft profile on the L28 is less agressive than on the L26 or L24...or even the L20A. It will have peak power around 5300 rpms, and shifting above 6300 is pretty much a waste of effort, especially after the first two gears. If you have a different camshaft that is designed for higher rpms, the L28 will rev up slightly higher and still make power. But it's a limitation of the cap profile. You won't get much more revving from it, stock. Cast pistons limit the terminal speed of the engine to 7K for longevity reasons should you get radical ideas about a camshaft that pulls to 8500 so you can bury your tach... Our Bonneville LSR has an L28 that runs to 8500+, you can see it on you tube by searching on the words "bad day at el mirage"

Update on the 260 Retrofit to #5/6. I Seafoamed the engine via tank of gas, and will Seafoam in the intake this weekend---this will remove any 'deposits' on the back of the valve that may be contributing to any detonation I am hearing. On the tank of gas after the first Seafoaming, I have added a full can of NOS Octane Booster, and from what I can hear, the Detonation has gone away entirely. I will test again tonight on the way home, as it's another scorcher (95+) on the way home, to confirm that a 'boost' in octane will also solve my detonation issue. Then I will probably be sent out of the country till it's cold, and I will have to wait a year to see temperatures that will mirror what I currently experience, but lets keep our fingers crossed that I get a chance to do the mod and report on the detonation results.

That is an outstanding place to have them! Speaking as someone who brke off two distributors in shunts on-track, I was bound and determined to figure out a place that would not be affected in such minor accidents where the radiator kisses the front of the engine and wraps around it. I settled on a flywheel based setup similar to what Chrysler used on the 2.2 engines. Anybody else who uses this setup is a Genius in my opinion... /Threadjack/

DeNada, Amigo! I'm not trying to P.O. anybody, having 'been in his shoes' I kinda have sympathy for the monumental task of communicating what exactly I want to convey to people who don't speak 'my' language. And my attempts at other languages...let's not even go there! "Ice" "Thanks" & "Massage" I have down...after that it gets really sketchy! In the field, technical stuff can some times take (I am not exaggerating) weeks...

What you may want to consider is to install some sort of metering valve in the return line off the surge tank, that way you could test various pressures. Come to think of it, simply putting a backpressure regulator for a HOLLEY on that line and adjusting it to keep 3.5psi in the surge tank would be pretty much set and forget...if you happen to have access to one of those. I don't know how the Stillen Z32 regulated pressure in their surge tanks, but I know they had four pumps for each bank of cylinders! I'm thinking by looking at their tank, they ran 'some' pressure, and quite possibly more than one would suspect to help push any entrained air up and out of the top. Pressure imparts flow through an orifice... I had a Carter N/A V8 pump for my surge tank, it was set up to automatically regulate to 3-4psi, and I could hear it shutting off at Idle (high bypass back to the surge tank, probably overwhelming the 1/4 line I had on there). At WOT I'm sure I never shut off, and have no idea what pressure I was running in the tank then, but at idle mine would climb to 4psi at least.

We run the old Haltech Digital Display on the dashboard, in the driver's line of sight on the Bonneville Car. If it's not where it's supposed to be (far right) during a run, the driver will let off and the rest of us pray he saw it quick enough... Red/Green/Yellow much easier to discern than a dial gauge that you shouldn't be looking at during WOT sessions...IMO

What is the temperature of the fuel in the tank? With todays' fuels and the pressures they operate at, there is a possibility of inlet/suction side cavitation of the pump from gas bubbles flashing in the inlet to the pump---and that drops fuel pressure. Is the surge tank pressurized to 2-3psi, or is it basically a 'atmospheric' NPSH that is going to your main pump? May want to restrict the bleed-back line from teh surge tank to the fuel cel to elevate the pressure there and see if that helps. If it does, then it's a fuel-heat/cavitation issue.

Frank I think has addressed the 'relevance'---syntax, speech patterns, and not being a 'native speaker' all contribute to a question that may not meet a 'native speakers' definition of 'full disclosure'. Your definition of 'all the relevant information' may be considerably different than someone from another country, culture, or even social background. My point was that the important thing is wether the relevant information does get conveyed. Jumping on someone and making cracks about their presentation is poor form IMO, and smacks of ridicule just because someone is not a native speaker. Could you converse in written German and phrase a sentence as completely? Dutch? Malay? Farsi? If not, then consider what it must be like for someone who comes from any of those countries to ask questions in English...written English at that. Not everyone speaks English around the world, and though this board is predicated on a basic English Knowledge---I don't think you are suggesting that people who arent fully conversant in English Bugger Off and not bother us here...but in effect that is what (from what I saw) your post above as doing. Focus on the questions, and the solutions, and far less on the form of the delivery. You seem upset that it took a 'half dozen posts or so' to get what his aims are. Perhaps that's because it took someone actually answering his question to have him refine his aims. You really missed an opportunity to note for him that the L26 Bore is the same as the L24 Bore, but then again the casting for an L26 may be different than an L24 so is it really pertinent information that you provided in the reply to him initially? Your post was probably more relevant to my statement later on overboring my 260Z for L28 Internals to keep it numbers-matching. An L26 shares the same bores, but is it an L24? Do we know that? He asked about sleeving as an alternative---you hadn't answered that regard. I did, and he further replied what his logic was for asking the question in the first place...after he was informed that indeed people have bored to water jacket and sleeved these engines successfully in the past. I just see it as a bit over the top to get so upset that you post something like you did without any consideration that it's not a native speaker of English posting the query. Maybe its because I do this all the time in my job that I understand the difficulties of conveying highly technical information to people of different languages and clutures, and so have more tolerance than someone who never has had to do that. Would it have been better if he posted the full question in Dutch? German? Would anybody here have been able to give any help? For someone bending over backwards to accomodate our demand that he converse in a language that is easy for us to understand...I think the least we can do is be a bit more understanding that maybe we will have to bear with them as they fight for the words to use to convey what they clearly know in their own language, and translate it into ours for us. As a native English Speaker, I am grateful to find someone at a plantsite that can speak English to assist in my job overseas. I think we should be a bit more grateful that the effort has been made, rather than critical that the effort was not perfect out the gate.

That simply may be a case of an obstructed cam spray lobe. Just because it's spraying now doesn't mean it has always sprayed! I have seen little blobules of RTV obstruct spraybars and not get dislodged causing a cam lobe failure. With all the oil blowing around, it runs for a while, but it wasn't until idle that you started hearing a 'squeak-squeak-squeak' from the valve cover. Heck, I've seen sludge block off spraybars...but it's such a solid buildup internally it doesn't get dislodged. A blob of something, a chip of metal, you name it... It can get stuck in there, and then one day (after the damage is slready started) gets dislodged for some reason or another, leaving no trace of it's prior existence. I worked a job in Timmins Canada where a cap chip off a 3/4" drill was floating around in a large equipment oil spray nozzle for close to 30 years before the wear was noticed on the gearing. Then it was hell to figure out 'why it wasn't there five years ago during the last inspection'---The only reason I found it was pulling inspection covers and checking the spray pattern. Depending on how I stuck a welding rod into the oiling nozzle, it could have a 'proper' spray pattern, or one that was seriously compromised. It all depended on which way the chip decided to get stuck when oil flow hit it. So don't discount the possibility of simple dirt/swarf from inadequate cleaning before initial startup. Or a possible improper heat treat on any of the sliding components (rocker arm probably most likely) as the precipitant cause of the 'single lobe failure'. And adding along that line, with oil insufficient in properties to protect an already marginal component it could be a 'combination' of oil and inadequate componentry on that lobe position as well.

Just a query, I see 'RRFPR' mentioned, do you mean manifold referenced FPR, or one with a truly rising rate? After torque peak, pulling fuel results in more power, I understand staying 'safe rich' up at the top end, but you are still on the verge of trailing black smoke out the tail pipe and are grossly rich on the top end. Which is kind of why I'm asking about the RRFPR---that will play hell with VE tables and trying to get the Megasquirt to fuel correctly under boost as your fuel pressure is variable across the orifice, and you will inject more fuel for the exact same pulsewidth at 9psi boost than you will at 5psi boost because of it. Meaning your VE tables usually skew to the lower numbers the more boost you run---which is not the way it should work!

Cam Bucket Bores can be sleeved as well. It all depends on how much money you are willing to spend to keep an engine or part from being 'scrapped'. If the engines complete are $4000, then spending $1500 to have everything blueprinted and line bored/sleeved back to specification may be worth it if the heads are not available separately for a considerable discount. We're talking about costs to recover bores, if you do one or two that shouldn't exceed $100 each. And if this cap or that were to be damaged, similarly you can index off the undamaged bores and repair one or two for a similar ammount. So $400 to reclaim something that might otherwise be considered 'scrap' is probably even economically viable even if the heads are available for a comparable price---you end up with a head you know has been checked and that everything is to specification for that repair price...not simply getting a 'it ran when I disassembled it' used part. I will check with some of my military friends on that gas-path cleaner. We would literally leave carburettor bodies in that stuff over the weekend without any damage. It's very mild even in fully concetrated form. If you have ever seen Amway LOC, that is kind of what it looks like, but I don't know if that is the same thing or not. (er...or the Canadian Equivalent of Amway LOC...) Obviously preventing etching from occuring is a concern. My comments are more geared towards a repair to a head that had something happen like a cam break, or lost oil pressure and seized this component or that. There is a point where reclaiming it may simply be not feasible. http://www.zok.com/products/products.htm http://www.turbo-k-direct.com/productinfo.htm http://www.macraesbluebook.com/search/product_company_list.cfm?Prod_Code=1799550 http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/2225/aluminum_cleaning_a_small_shopx2019s_perspective.aspx

Whichever you can hook to the laptop and datalog, would be my general suggestion. Datalogging is invaluable.

The issue of grenading is as much from extra weight at the outermost edges as an unseen structural flaw. Let's not kid ourselves here, you can't do stupid things like try to make a stock flywheel 5Kg. You can make it 7KG, though. And when you do this, it's always wise to do magnaflux inspection of the core you intend to use to make sure nothing is latent in there to cause a failure. My 7Kg (what I refer to as a 15#) lightened stocker has seen upwards of 7500 rpm on occasion, though usually it's shifted by 6500. It was on the car when the Nismo Clutch and Pressure Plate failed, and I had to take a chisel to break the marcel off the face of the flywheel to remove the clutch disc. It has taken over 40K miles of my abuse, 5 MSA Auto-X weekends (the first five, when you were getting in some cases 30+ runs per day!!!), and dyno time that checked RWHP to the 350 range. Does that mean I would keep it on there in real competition? Not on your life! SFI 3.1 rated flywheel would go on there in a heartbeat! For me, the above conditions are what I am terming 'street use'---if I'm going to go racing, I'm spending the $1000 and getting a proper competition clutch and flywheel assembly. But just because a stocker is lightened doesn't make it inherently any less safe than the stock unit. And given the way you lighten them at the outermost edges, one can make the argument that a lighter flywheel with no inertia ring is safer than a stock unit simply because of less stress risers and exponentially reduced centripital loads on the core metal. For the load imparted to the flywheel from the ring gear during starting of even a diesel motor, do you really think that ring needed to be that thick? When I see it, all I see is extra weight at the worst possible place on a flywheel. And the exponential forces it will generate compared to one cut as I described. Again, it's not how much weight, but where! Those rough casting surfaces make me shudder. If they are going to cut it, make it safer at the same time. Leaving rough unmachined surfaces seems anthema to a professional machinist given the little time they would take to do that cleanup.

There indeed is a stud girdle available for the L-Series. Japanese, of course. There was debate about it, of course, but the component does exist out of Japan. http://www.grit-tune.com/part.html (About 3/4 way down the page) This is the thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123513 The discussion was about a 'block brace' which the Hondas use. The product exists for some reason, may be a competitive environment is a bit different than short bursts or someting in a club racing environment? Sniping at a man who competitively races GT350 Shelby Mustangs at LeMans (and if you've visited his linked site should reveal a slight bit more knowledge than most here regarding high-end competition in motorsports) should be poor form even in the land of Oz...especially given he's posting in a second language (of several he speaks). Perhaps dribbling is a better way to work up to it---Do you have a comprehensive solution to his query OZ, or are you just standing on form and principle as protector of ettiquette? I'd worry less about form and more on solutions, personally. Just my opinion. I mean, you did see his second post where he refined the question to encompass sleeving right? That's a big clue that 'maximum bore' means 'maximum bore'---the only limitation would be sleeve major diameter impinging on block head stud integrity and desired sleeve wall thickness. If you consdier an 86mm bore of the sleeve, +3mm walls that would give you only 92mm...and there are engines (L28's out there) that are bored to 90.5mm and running on the block's metal, so the real question is when using sleeves, would the extra 0.040" cut to go from 90.5 to 92.5mm impinge upon the stud integrity...there is a possibility that with an L28 block you would still have a dry sleeve situation with a 92mm major diameter sleeve! Meaning, the L24 Architecture would support that as stud spacing did not change between L24/L28 Bores. The real question, as Bryan pointed out, is 'what is the core thickness around the L24 Bore'? That will determine if the sleeve at a 92mm major diameter (and an 86mm Piston Bore) will be wet, or dry. It's been done in Japan on smaller cars to defraud the inspectors to keep a vehicle in the 2 Liter Tax Class while running an L24 internals set. The art died out in practice by the late 80's due to Shaken allowing motor swaps, and the advantages of the larger displacement of the L28 out of the box without any expensive machine work. But if you are required to run an L24 Block for class requirements.... Ad, I think the sleeve will work cut as you propose---I believe the bore on the L20A's was cut in similar manner to be able to use the L24 Pistons in the Diesel Liners. The block is really rigid. And the earlier blocks are tougher than most of the very last production models of the L28 anyway---metalurgy changed for cost reductions once they altered the cooling jackets. A stud girdle wouldn't hurt when doing it. Nothing like finding a broken crank to ruin a day at the track! I'm going to have to check with what is on the schedule, the people in Madrid jsut sent an (untranslated) e-mail and from what I can gather, they want hands-on technical assistance again. So I may be 'in the area' sooner than I anticipated. Then it's just a matter of making my wife upset as I 'take vacation' in conjunction with another overseas job! LOL She will be upset, because she finally got her passport re-issued! He he he he he!

If I had the time to find it, gladly. I'll put it on the list of things to do. I was looking at the 2+2 Roll Bar up in the rafters just the other day thinking "I got to get that down and snap those photos for Stealth Z and the bunch..." From the photo published, I can say that I believe it is 17#...it has a very heavy ring under the flywheel. The Japanese will cut right under the flywheel at a 30 or 45 degree angle with a radius at the 'flat back' of the thing---they will not leave all that metal at the outer edge of the flywheel. I have seen some that cut the ring gear in half from the non-lead-in-edge for even more weight reduction... That you can see 'Japan E30' is also a sign that they didn't cut nearly as much as they could have. But in that area there isn't much advantage---what the Japanese Machinist explained to me back in 86/87 was to leave that area relatively thick (behind the friction face), but make sure you get ALL the casting roughness off to preclude any chance for stress risers. So they skim cut till smoooth, then a little deeper to get some weight reduction. They would also get rid of the 'hump' transition to the centermost part of the flywheel around the crank flange, using a straight angle cut and generous radius. On the crank mounting area, they would skim cut to remove the casting irregularities. The pictured flywheel would be considered 'heavy' basically they machined off the inertia ring, but not very agressively at all. They left a lot of metal there that does nothing but slow down acceleration. They could have done this to it as well:

Find one in the USA! I missed the option to bid on three LD28T's as well as LD20T's which I wanted for the 510 and the Z. I would much prefer to use the LD-T's from the start, but finding one is nigh near impossible. And the guy selling LD's over in Southgate is catering to forklift replacement market, with pricing at $2000 for a USED engine. I can pay for the shipping container and fly to Japan/Europe/Australia and load it for that kind of iffy pricing. I mean, I don't know if they guy actually sells any of them, given the fact you can get LD28's from JY's at the most for $450, complete. Just insane pricing...I was born recently, but not yesterday!

Only two things I note: "Recirculation Line"---there are two, one internal and one external, and they go to the inlet side of the pump. "Heater Core to Pump" line should also be on the inlet side of the pump. I only make this note because this past weekend I was assisting with a Toyota 18RG Water Pump Swap, and indeed they have lines that go to the pump volute, AND others that go to the inlet of the pump---what is present in those two areas is quite different! Basically, adding the internal bypass line and making the other two lines all go to what looks like the 'lower radiator hose line' would be more technically correct. "Gnaank gnaaank! Lewis, the Alpha-Betas took our pocket protector collection and set on fire!"

Burns Stainless also has a engineering service which they will lump into the cost / credit you for on purchase of their collectors and tubing when you construct your header.

That makes the assumption that the 537 rwhp pull is the one he's referring to in relation to the 658 number. It was you who assumed a 22.5% driveline loss. With as many pulls as JeffP has made, he is wont to cite numbers he has 'backup' for, but in some cases the dyno doesn't capture this run or that because the operator made an error in selecting which mode to run in, or simply was incompetent and didn't 'save run to log file' as simple as that may sound... Which is why I said at the outset of the claim that making assumption on numbers and calling B.S. is even more pointless. Like I said, unless drivelines have some magical way of putting power into the rear wheel number, Jeff is being conservative in his claims, and I'm too damn busy to framegrab Hi-8 Video frames to suit naysayers. The first post never should have been made terribly rude and sarcastic no matter which way you read it---the second post (if that was the 'real' purpose as stated) is the only one that should have been made in regards to the numbers.

Yep, and plan on making a big deal of it as I go to the Referee and get my BAR smog-check exemption sticker in the door jamb as well! 40mpg is 40mpg... It's a 280Z anyway. Meh. If I had a ZX to sacrifice, I'd do it instead with PS and A/C since the Maxima had all that crap. It makes it nice in a commuter car. Donor only had 250K on it, should be good for a couple of more miles. Pretty clean too. I just hope the I-Pump is good, they had a boat primer bulb where the filter/purge should have been on the fenderwell...

Probably... Don't see why not. Lathe, parting tool, 5 minutes...new configuration! Last I checked through Nissan, it was something like $22 new.