col10see

Has anyone made a shift pattern plate for the z like the fuhrarreeez. Lol

Also have a stock set here likewise

Love the build keep it up

Got the return bung on the pan and painted it up. I want to paint the car this color but I would rather not rattle can the whole thing. Here it is with the hose attatched And how I have it hooked up till I get the intercooler hooked up I started it and set the timing to 24*.. Then I took it out for a spin, holy crap what a difference! And that was on five cylinders? Cyl 1 fuel injector was plugged so I purchased a new one and replaced it. Wow even more power duh one more cyl... I cant believe how much low end I still have and the turbo hits hard at the power band great! I love the sound. Like a semi on the freeway. Ive heard people running 13 psi no problem intercooled is this true? What deg adv recomended? Also what About using a turbo afm with the turbo injectors, is it plug and play like the na? I run rich at wot under boost but also cruising for the most part I can get it idealish sometimes.

I decided to lock my dizzy advanced. But didnt take a pic of it after:( this it the position I welded it. I used a tig welde and used some 1/16 308L stainless filler rod because it will not rust but still melts with steel. And the tig has no spatter to worry about. I also had to build my own downpipe dr gas provided me with a 2.5 mandrel bent U to cut and weld. I just used a holesaw to cut out the o2 bung from the pacesetter headers I had and welded it into the new dp.

The old webbed intake manifold The exhaust manifold turbo and afm mocked up The non webbed/egr manifold

Hi everyone! Newer to the forum but so far I am pleased... so the story starts, I have always wanted a 240z just for the looks mainly, so cool, just bad without trying. But living in utah good luck finding one not rotted out completely for a decent price.... any way I found this beauty in reasonable condition, just "not running" for 650$, I looked at it twice and then offered 550 cash the seller took and thus the adventure had begun... It would start and immediately die and not start again for a few minutes... after chasing wires for a few weeks I found nothing odd... but then I got bright idea to clean the grounds... even though they looked ok. Vrooooom she started right up. REALLY! THAT WAS IT! I was so excited! I got the wife and set out for a ride and to fill it with some fresh gas. On the way back I got on the gas and what do ya know it died not to start again until after we called a friend to tow us home. As we were trying to figure out how to push it up the driveway I thought, maybe ill try to start it up.... it started right up as if there was nothing wrong. This same thing happend about three times and after a little research I came to the conclusion it was the black box, the ignition control unit. I ordered a new one and the problem was solved. I smog tested it, it passed easy! With more driving time came my want for more power! I decided to go to a turbo. The order/do list: Non webbed non egr intake Stock Turbo manifold Turbo injectors Oil line Oil fittings to branch off oil psu Weld in oil return bung on oil pan Oil return barbs and hose Silicone fittings for intake Blow off valve Bov adapter Intercooler Intake tubing

I had a set if you dont have the right washers on there to make up the diference in thicknesses of the mounting surfaces it will leak exhaust BAD! BUT other than that I had no complaints.

Did you wire the red and green in the dizzy right? If it is that one anyway

Ok I think I figured it out... the flat tab thingy goes on the top. This makes it so you cant go from 5 to reverse but you can go from 5-4... but you can unlock reverse from neutral a wiggle and down to reverse...

Ill give it a few tries thanks

What does that even mean checks reverse... not being snarky just dont understand wtf this thing even does ill check the grime but it may be difficult as I power washed the mofo.

Can someone tell me what way the rev. check sleeve is supposed to go?

Any updates?

Cleaned it all up, bearings may not be brand new but they felt good so i guess i miss spoke, obviously ive been driving it for 6 mo plus how ever Many miles on it wile it was in the prev owner put on it. but they are clean quiet not binding and feel tight within the races.all acting very close to the new bearings in the kit I have. Cleaned all the gears And slipped it together tighend the rear section on to the center section and put it back on the vise and spun it, it was quiet. The shifter shifts smooth and there it no play in the output. I thought it was a splash gaurd on the back of the bearing support to keep oil from coming out of the vent broke off, thats what I was meaning to say maybe I missed it. I belive it was from driveshaf vibration that the support worked loose and forward of the bearing. Im a dummy however and forgot to note what direction the rev check goes. Like this?

the marble noise was the splash guard on the bearing support. part of it broke off and was making the noise as it was being refined into little shiny bits in the tranny oil. havent tried fitting it yet since it has been welded but it fit snugly before...i am going to flush out the gears and syncros and bearings tonight as they still look brand new, comparing them to the kit i just bought. but i will follow up on that.

ok thanks

wile im in there i figured i would give a go at a short shift mod. . i got rid of the plastic bushing and pressed in a peice of aluminum also i drilled the hole in the shifter a little off center to make the forward throw a little less... i will be either using teflon washers nylon or brass to make up the space on the sides.

Thanks newzed for the links... I couldnt find that bushing/oil bearing:( Sadley I think you are right Xnke.. but in the mean time I need a car wile I search for a tranny. So... since tiging aluminum is one of my skills I am gonna attempt to patch it for now. I had time during my lunch at work to use the welder so I patched the hole I drilled rebuilt the oil splash guard for the vent on the back and built a clamp to pull the tailshaft bearing support back tight wile I tacked it into place in four places trying not to overheat the area. . Hopefully this will buy me some time to save some money up.... Also, I know the driveshafts u-joints are " non replaceable " but I have heard of people doing it. Any knowledge of the size or part numbers to replace them with.

Sorry for the redundancies I dont know how many people have seen this. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112296-transmission-going-out/

Does anyone know how tight of a fit the bearing support is supposed to be? any reason not to weld it in there? Also were can I find a new brass bearing??? For the drive shaft at the very end of the transmission with the grooves in it.

got the tail section off finally. thanks guys. turns out the tailshaft bearing race came out and went in front of the bearing blocking the striker rod from slipping past so i ended up nocking the lockink pin out of the rod wile it was inside by drilling a hole in the side giving me access wile it was turned enough to remove all the way.

ok i pulled the tranny after i got off. im stuck pulling it apart the gears and syncros look good up front but i cant get the second half off!

Noooooooo!! Hopefully it was just the headgasket good luck... my transmission just took a dump on me!

Waking an old thread up but is this all I need for my 280zx rebuild... http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=230939690223 Are there any other things I may wsnt to do wile im in there?