9rider

You may want to dowload the injector trouble shooting manual . I did dl in this forum somewhere but forgot where. You can run test on all most all sensors and circuits. At least you find that you have no spark. My Z has everything " ON" but won't start.

Here is some pictures, I am assume all my responsible when I drive this car, so feel free to give out comments. One more question, will I mess up car body's structure - alignment when driving around like this? It will be project car so I will drive her maybe once a month or less than that, however she will make a trip of 300 miles to her new garage since I have no parking right now.

@4.6Stang: Which wire you mention about? I took couple picture under dash driverside. @Domzs: I have fuel pressure raise up to 33PSI when crank and ~36 PSI when AIM Flap pressed. @NewZed: I ran fuel line correctly as you see above. I switch battery from another car, 600 CCA , cranked it up and nothing happened.

I tested all the ECU pins. Idle throttle switch Full throttle switch AFM resistance 1, 2, 3 Air temp sensor resistance AFM fuel pump contacts Water temp sensor resistance Fuel pump relay circuit Air regulator and fuel pump circuit Control unit ground circuit 1, 2 , 3 , 4 Ignition Coil trigger input circuit Control Unit Power input circuit Injector circuit 4,1,5,6,3,2 Start signal circuit Air Regulator Circuit Cold Start System circuit All of them showed within the ranges or values indicate in TB manual. So this come to final conclusion is my ECU broken? Is there any other way to test or check without replace the ECU. I am afraid that I will busted the new one if I don't find out what is wrong or I end up getting the new ECU and problem still exist. I ran check on the injectors with both plug off the injector show battery voltage at key " on" position, didn't change when start. But when I used Amp meter test the injector plugs ( unplugged) with pos lead to 1 of the plug and neg lead to air intake body , I heard injector tap and fuel pressure drop right away ( key " ON" ). This happened to only one plug of the injector pigtail. PS: my car ran fine ( a little hesitate when rev up) until I change the fuel filter and add the fuel pressure gauge. I disconnected the fuel hose right in middle of the rail and fuel come out -> fuel get through pressure gauge and the new filter.

I inspected my car 1976 280z, and found that frame rail rusted both side 1/4 rear end areas. The front look pretty intact , I used screw driver tried to poke along the rails. The question is it safe to drive? I don't plan on any crazy driving not until install the new frame rail from baddog. The reason I don't do it now because I save up to do it once same time when I strip the car complete to do ground up restoration. The rust pretty much ate up bottom of the rails, leaving just 2 side wall. I can see the inside of the rails. Any prevention methods to delay this " cancer" at least for a year ? Rust converter? Or I have to cut away the cancer parts and prime it ? Thanks.

I just dl injector TB handbook and will test all 35 pin. Let yall know later.

I believe my car is stock wire-harness and I didn't change or mod anywire. But there is some wires don't look stock. I was mention about the other topic when the guy ( atl-adam) swap his wire from 76 into his 77. Thanks for all your help.

Yes, I installed fuel pressure gauge after the filter ( permanent ) . Fuel pressure rose up when crank and when I flapped the MAF, i could hear the hissing noise from the fuel regulator - doing its job . Fuel getting in the cold start valve too. I measured voltage on all injector plugs. Both plugs getting ( + battery voltage)/ - ground to engine block , I say this because the starter caused it go up and down + - couples volt when I crank . This stopped when I removed yellow/black wire to the starter. Both plugs of injectors have almost identical voltage when key in on position and didn't change value when I cranked. I checked ignition plugs with the spark test tester and light (ON) on all sparks. Also got shock too ( ). I removed the ECU , unplugged . Voltage on injectors showed battery voltage on only 1 plug when key on position and didn't change when crank. I didn't spray Carb cleaner into injector because last time I sprayed , I almost burned both of my eyebrows ( coz I spray likely 1/4 of can into the air intake and caused it to back fire back to the front of the intake) -- too scare until now. I found there is member have same problem as me when he switched the harness. But his topic still unanswered. All of this point me to 2 areas: the ECU and or the dropping resistor. I took the ECU apart, forget me for being dumb, looked into those resistor and hoped seeing melted or fried one. ( given this is old car and giving its old school way) , didn't see any burn or melted and everything seemed intact. Hope the guy have same situation with me found the solution and will chime in. In the mean time , I am really don't know what to do and i am really appreciate all helping that I got from you guy.

Oh, I did check more into the pass side relay, don't know if that relay for fuel pump or injector but it worked fine. Sorry didn't mention year of my car. It is 1976 California model , base 2 seats.

I am getting 12v at both plugs of injector. Same as this topic here http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/112559-no-ground-to-injector-ecu-ok/?hl=toinjector Do you think dropping resistor have anything to do with this? I will try to spray carb into the intake now , but if it run for couple seconds then it proves have ignition , don't see how to know there is fuel problem.

Story : I bought my first Z car about a month ago. Owner claim the car had not started since 2000. I drained all the gas tank. No rust came out, lucky. However, most of the fuel hose melted and messed up the pump. I changed the pump to MSD 2225, changed all the fuel hose around the pump, and fuel hose around the filter. Blow air to return line to make sure no stuck. blow air to feeding line make sure no stuck. Car started and ran but hesitate around 2000 RPM. I checked MAF, TPS, cleaned both. All good, Suspect either fuel damper or fuel filter clog up ( I didn't change the fuel filter yet) And now the problem: I disconnect all the spark wire, disconnect distributor wire on the distributor side and still plug at the ignition side and left it hang around the engine compartment. Ran power thru the cold start valve to release fuel pressure. After that, I change the fuel filter, installed inline fuel pressure gauge after the fuel filter, Crank the engine to make sure no leak, engine didn't start , of course all spark plug wire unplug. I totally forgot that I unplugged all the spark plug wires and crank it couple more time. Fuel pressure reading 32 PSI indicated fuel pump worked. I plugged all the spark wires back as of diagram 1 5 3 6 2 4 . And I couldn't get injector to tap again. I checked both relay on driver side, cold start valve. Test fusable link, all good. Test the ignition coil , get reading of 12V. My question is : did I flood the injectors when I cranked that many time? and cause it to damaged? The ignition coil wire might have touch the frame and short out the fuse or relay somewhere? , if it posible. I didn't test the ECU or the drop resistor yet. I searched but could't find similar topic relate to my dumb problem. Most of topic related to AFM and pump relay. Please help as I live in apartment and park my car on street, I have to push my car around 1 every 2 days to avoid ticket from city.