9rider

Check if you really have power to the pump. There is 2 relays on pass side for the pump. Key on position won't give the pump on unless you move the flap of AFM ( fuel pump contact point inside the pump). Check cold start valve. Install a fuel pressure gauge. Read more in this forum if all thing above don't work out. Good luck.

AFM contact point would pretty much do the same thing. Fire car up and good for 2 seconds. AFM is in side the black plastic box of AFM. Both fuel injection service manual and FSM have diagrams.

S2000 projector, Lexus LS460 projector, FXR, are among the best of projectors if you guy want to go retrofit route. I did retrofit many cars before but haven't done this to my s30. Mainly because the 3 inches projector fit in the 7 inches housing will result in a weirdo looking headlight. I am planning run a headlight cover and the projector itself without the 7 inches glass cover, but moist will get in the projector lens and soon or later will mess up the bixenon flap spring.

If you think your car electrical messed up then it would kill most relay and wires in your car before give you a spark even when you stand outside.

I live in Bishop and I discharged at least 3 or 4 times from my car to the building. First one , get in my car and got 1 . Then key in the ignition , got 1 some time. Turn off the car, got one and got out the car, got one with the car handle. I could see the spark as long as 1/2 inch. So it is doesn't matter that you have 1 or 2 mins apart. As long as you build up the charge then goes the spark.

MSD 2225 is easy to put in. Drill new holes for the pump and that's it. Remember to mount it horizontal and as low as possible comparing to tank position. It is a good pump, but making extreme whining noise. Trust me, it is louder than my 3 inches catback on idle, especially when it staving.

Item acquired. Admins please close thread, Thanks..

Yeap I was about to mark it when the helical spring spun out. I think most if those spring from same MAF will have the same position. The different in tension, a little , will be adjustable via adjustable air by pass valve. Narrow the air way of by pass valve will increase force on the flap of MAF and the other way around. But adjusting the by pass air also lead to problem that unaccounted air go in engine lead to my engine running weird now.

I will buy another AFM and measure the resistance of spring at given flap open at varies positions and adjust the old one.

Yean, the flame arrestor , hahah, I was trying to find the words for it.

The mess inside the hose is the " back fire " something to prevent oil goes in. Last time when I changed all my hose , I thought some stupid mechanic clean the hose and left stuff in there. I found that out later after threw the whole thing away and change the new hose from O'reilly. I didn't stuck any stainless steel mess in there, however , I checked the hose every couple oil change seeing it was clean inside without oil.

My Z stalled couple times during the week. I took the cap of AFM off, trying to adjust the flap's helical resistance spring. I make it less resistance so it won't cut off the fuel at fuel pump contact point. The car run great and idle great after all adjustment at air by pass screw ( the one factory adjusted ) and idle screw. But now I feel my Z have less power, I drive same route everyday and watch RPM and speed comparing to the road. Such as I will pass this sign at RPM and speed, and will pass the other sign at RPM and speed. Shifting always is the same RPM. Given the same distance as before, the car pass the distance as lower RPM and speed, of course take longer time too. More, I don't hear the clear roaring from the exhaust, it sounds quieter . The car rev freely without hesitate, though. Is there a position reset for the helical spring? How do I know the flap register the right amount of fuel air mix.? Thanks guy.

My AFM still work. However,I release the flap resistance spring inside. Now I have a hard time adjust it back to exact. I don't know if my car running too lean or too little air due to the fact that the flap won't register the right position for the air fuel mix.

Thanks.

Want to buy a good use mass air flow meter for 1976 280z. Shipping to CA 93514. Thanks.

If it popping and exhaust sound like " turbo " then it may be one of injector connection lose.

Guys, I am trying to weld the frame rail and not going to cut any holes on my floor pans or trunk or rocker panel or roof. Those parts are fine in my Z. I live in snow area whereas will be salt on road so I don't think I will screw drive the frame rail to the floor pan. Thanks guy.

First day I drove my Z, I was counting how many people looked at my Z. And after that day, I lost count. I am not driving any car , I am driving a piece of history. I can't count how many time old folks in their 50 60 come by me , shake hand and told me a bunch of story about the Z being their first car.

You can check your MAF. My car acting weird couple days ago. It idles fine, rev up fine, but as soon as I release gas pedal to shift to another gear ( mainly 1 - 2 nd) it would stalled and stop. I checked it today and it appear to be MAF. Key on , I tried to move the flap inside the MAF, I can see my FP gauge jumped up and down. However, after couple moves, it didn't send any signal at all to the pump, hence the FPG stay the same. I lightly tapped the MAF and it worked for a couple times and stop and work. I will take the MAF out to check out tomorrow. Hope this is some information for guys have same issue. Have a good weekend Holiday guys and gals. Be safe.

There is loophole. I work in Bishop, where as require only 1 smog test when transfer ownership. The county is one of a few don't require smog test every year. But I am not sure if drive the car to another county and get pull over.

Put the AFM back and move the flap inside with key on. You should hear pump humming noise, that is one way, the other way is still test the pin from ECU. You sure didn't break it when trying to open the AFM up??? BTW, saw a guy in part for sale section have some AFM for sale, I am not sure it is for NA or turbo.. You can take a look. GL'

I recognized the Los Angeles downtown landscape. Hope can meet the guy in local Datsun meeting.

You don't need an extra ECU , however, if you have it on hand then it worth a try. I doubt the problem from the ECU. I did open up my ECU back then and basically test almost the entire circuit in there. There is nothing wrong and nothing in there. I suggest you test all pin from ECU and know which sensor bad or good and if the FI system is good. Test procedure is in the link I gave you up there. The value should be in within of the printed values. Good luck.

Use this one to diagnose, it was doing good for me, hope for you as well. http://www.xenons130.com/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf

What is RPM when idling after warm up? I installed a permanent fuel pressure gauge when I first got my 76 280z, That helped me a lot during the course of tune up and diagnose most problem.