9rider

That's about right if you have 4 speed MT. I doing 70 at around 3800 RPM too. (mine swap back to 4 speeds since I busted 5th syncro in my 5MT)

Talk to the owner, he stated this is his only car. He said he want to fix it , but I pulled out all the crap that he needs to fix to make the car run safe again. He said he will think about it. I don't think he will bite the 500 . Should I pay this car for 800+??

Still haven't get a hold with the owner of this one, but how much should I pay for it as you guy suggest?

Yeah, I won't buy that 260z just for swapping VIN plate. I drove by a smog check point in my parent area ( Arcadia, CA ) and saw they pulled all pre 2000 car over for a smog test on site. They pop hood, check VIN and perform all test. Some ricer got pull over too. Good luck to them. I may just work on my 280z and even take more time to work out with the referee with swapping engine and such, I want to drive my car with peace in mind. Thanks guys.

Did you check your frame rail condition. I have rusted frame rail and the tail will twist a little. Since I have no time and space to do the frame rail restoration, I gave it a shot and mod a 240sx rear tower strut bar in. It cut down the noise a lot. Still have some if I do drive hard.

I drove by a check point - smog only on San Gabriel Blvd , Los Angeles sub. They stopped all pre 2000 cars and smog test it on site. It was pretty scary.

You must have 20+ inches arm. LOL

Smaller steering wheel will make your bicep bigger. I once swapped the smaller racing steering wheel from my tiny 323 Mazda to the Z and changed it right back after Costco trip. I think they make that big steering wheel in the Z is for a reason.

I found a local 260z parked on the neighbor autoshop. (I got my 280z and it is right on the smog year - I can't swap any engine without going to the referee. And I guess this will be a good car to do the swap).The guy work there claimed that owner may want to sell it. Problem: Hood , no good - twisted Floor pan may need to change out, see some rust but not rusted thru,. Frame rail , of course , need to replace.. Engine: the autoshop guy claimed he changed the dis but couldn't get the car run. He said he aligned timing mark but couldn't get the cylinder 1 align . He said not sure but the timing chain was tripped?? How hard to fix the engine problem? How much should I offer him. ? Car located 93514 Bishop ( next to Mammoth mountain ) . I got the 280z 1976 same city for $1750 ( not running) . Thanks guys. I may take couple pictures after the rain .

I think that fuel damper serve the purpose of quite down the noise isn't it? I will take it down and see what happen. I don't have a fancy electronic FPG but I have a mechanical inline install behind the fuel filter , I will see if fuel pressure drop.

Thanks DuoWing. I will upgrade the fuel wire and drop the tank to see if the feeding tube rusted.

Can I check without open the tank up. . I am planning delete the rear bumper too so it will be a good time to move 2 jobs at one. Thanks.

I did working in my 1976 280z. I mounted it in the same location. Drilled and fab the stock plate for the new pump to fit in and mount it as low as possible. https:/ The picture was before I add some rubber to damper the noise down where the pump meet the plate. I not quite sure if the fuel pressure damper could have cause the problem and didn't remove it out for test yet.

Unless I top off the tank, otherwise it will make noise when tank is half full or less. This is normal for the MSD 2225 . I read review before I bought the pump and knew it would make noise but this is getting annoying. It is louder than my exhaust and sound like my Z is an electric car with the noise. I read article that install a pick up pump would solve the problem. And where do I get the painless fuel pump relay?? Thanks.

I had my MSD 2225 install when I first got the car. However , the pump making loud noise. I am planning install an inline micro pickup pump in hope reducing the noise. The question is if the stock fuel wiring system can handle an additional pump? How about relay, fuse and other components? Thanks

I don't think anything that could busted. I accident left my key on all time and beside drained out battery , nothing broken. My ignition key is busted. I can take key out without turn it all the way to off position, that's why.

There is 4 wire to the tranny, 2 for the reverse light switch and other 2 for the neutral safety switch. If you have have 4 speed MT then those 2 neutral switch will be use, the 5 MT don't have that. Good luck with other stuffs that have problem.

Yep, now that explain. The spring was in a 240z. But can I use it or have to trash it away?

i am newbie too and I see similar topic more than twice this month. Do your research - spend 1 2 hours not just 15 mins and you will find your answer. Mean while , you can go under your car with tape-measure and find pretty much about clearance of your new wheel. Just my 2 cents

My buddy give me what he claim can fit into my 280z 76 . 4 tokico lower spring. The 2 in the back is same length and shorter - of course. However the 2 in the front is not same length, one is 1 coil longer than other - front . Is it because PO wanted to counter his weight ??? What if I cut the long one to the same size as the other? Or PO found that one spring has weaker spring rate thats why he gave it longer length. Thanks.

How do you know it is the relay? Did you check your fuel pump if it is still in working condition? Did you air your fuel line and return line to clean it ? Fuel damper stuck? ect.... Did you change your fuel filter? Use battery to test your fuel pump. I think when you hear click then the relay is working , if no click then no work ??

Man, try to save every little dollars I can. The new one cost around 50 and I am planning to use it for just a year or 2 before the conversion. Hope someone did they conversion and still have those parts around and let it go for 15 20 maybe. Thanks.

Want to buy right ( pass side ) rear brake cylinder kit. I have rebuilt the brake once but still leak coz the bore has some corrosion. No money for a conversion and bigger wheel. Looking for a good used cylinder. I am in California. Thanks guys.

I don't know that was nonsense to you. I am sorry if you found that nonsense , hopefully it made sense to other.

I think your ricer can have a BBQ size exist tip. Exhaust gas from engine flow thru and slow down right at the tip and create back pressure.( I am assume you have smaller pipe from engine to the can ) . Same as water current , flow faster at narrow and slower at larger bank. Change your ricer can or weld a brand resonator before the muffler ( help with drone and back pressure ). Just 2 cents .