9rider

Thanks Pharao. I am pulling out the transmission today. And will see if I can get it fix.

Nice find. Even parted it out you can triple the profit. Or double the profit just to sell it right now. And I will buy it haha.

I have 76 280z ( production date 7/1976) The car have 5 speed transmission . As of my search , it is a early 5 speed ( wide ratio ) , because it has 2 ears and the speedo nut is in the inside. I think the PO did the swap or is it original ?? When I put in gear , it will make a little clunking noise at low speed. The noise will disappear as I press the clutch. Clunking noise is louder when in reverse. And will disappear when I press clutch. I have done trouble shooting so far: Check u joint , I rev car up with 2 rear wheels off the ground and in gear then applied clutch . The noise stop , and of course the drive shaft and wheels still turn but no noise. Removed Drive shaft and inspect U joint - good Check if shaft hitting sway bar or something , I hoped , but it is not, it is cleared from everything. Check the sandwich rubber for the diff - good Check mustache rubber and bolts - good Notice that every noise will stop as soon as I press the clutch whether in gear or not. Small grinding sound even when car in N and stop with clutch press down. Car shift in gear up and down good no clutch slip. I have never opened up a transmission before and willing to fix this one. I checked Ebay for rebuilt kit but they all say FSW71A. But as of my Chilton manual states as FSW71B for my trans. Please someone helps me confirm this? And any reliable shop rather than Ebay have a reputation rebuilt kit ? And I can't really change the U join in this model ( my chilton said all 75 up U joint can't replace but have to replace the whole shaft ) Thanks all very much for reading my long post.

Modified car don't have value comparing to stock car. unless it was built from famous well known shop. I flipped couple cars and most of good selling was stock cars. People want to buy stock car because : Cheaper than modified car. Mature buyers don't really want modified car. ( I don't say driving modified car is immature) Just saying if you swap v8 but guy or gal have RB taste, eg. Worry modified stuff wasn't compatible or incorrectly put in and even if it is legal. Want to have own fun modify on weekend with small amount fund little by little over the year. To feel and understand the car when you do it yourself. Yup, stock is good, even the replacement parts are better but save money and quick sell. Just my 2 cents.

I think it is normal since my car did the same when I troubleshoot my FI system. Or we may have 2 car with abnormal problem

Members are using projector light, may i ask if the light output pattern are being blocked by the long nose and deep headlight housing. I mean if the 2 lights won't cross each other or cross but at far distance. I retro my 2012 Tundra with projector from theretrofitsource.com and it turn out great but a little skeptic when come down to the Z. And you guy are using original headlight housing to do the retro or buy the brand new set of headlight with projector in it ? Thanks.

You may want to check the TPS if it is working. You can open it up and see if you accelerate , the flap should leave the idle contacting point and touch the accelerate flap. If it doesn't touch, try use to screw driver to make contacting point and twist the throttle to see if it still stumble. My Z has same issue until I found out the TPS never touch the WOT position.

Check TPS. How about take out your oil filler cap and see if the engine stall. Brake vacuum ? Advancing vacuum? Replace all the vacuum hose if you can, cost you around most $20.

Sell the car, get a good transportation vehicle and come back to this project in life if you still interesting in it. I was the same at your age when starting to LIKE car. Spend all my financial aid and student's loan and my little wage to fixed up any car that I have. And later in life, when I have too much other stuffs to taken care of, those cars become spider's home. If you decided this will be the car you driven when you 30 or 40 then go for it , swap , replace fix it. If not, get a reliable car to work and school. Just my 2 cents.

Test 35 pins of your ECU, help me to understand a lot tho .

I accidently threw away the valve cover hose contain the flame arrestor inside. Forgive me for being a newbie to the Z. I replaced it with a normal vacuum hose. So is there a serious negative problem that will affect my engine performance and or emission or safety or gas mileage ? I tried to look up and search for this little flame arrestor to install it back but couldn't find it. Is there another way or mod to correct the problem. Thanks all for your help. Information you guy gave me helping woke up a 10 years sleeping beauty Z.

Back pressure ?? My Z is doing the same right now but I have low FP 32 PSI need to check out before the exhaust.

No, my ignition wire was damaged inside ( broken ) , However appeared perfect outside. I cut and re-wire.

Don't spray carb and crank the same time. I got a back fire almost burn out my eyebrows .Spray for 2 3 seconds most then crank your car.

Use a screw driver poke the frame rail. I made mistake when bought mine. My Z's frame rail looked very good until I use the jack on it. Baddogparts.com has fame rail for replacement incase you have a rusty frame rail. And to say, it is almost impossible not to have a rusty frame rail on those Z.

Buy a cheaper one and mod as you like. I got mine 1 month ago paid $1600 280z 1976. Rusted frame rail and some rust spots. Planning to spend another 4k and my car will look pretty good. You get the ideas.

I found the problem, thanks to 4.6StangRage and all members. Problem laid in the ignition wire ( weather pack connector on 4.6StangRage's pictures), the wire looked fine , however, the conductor inside was broken. That why I couldn't detect it. My car run again, and thank you all for your helping hands. Wish you have a nice weekend with lady you love. ( Fairlady included )

my ECU: A11-600 000 Lot 6702 L28 On my ECU i saw it has all 35 pins. Thanks

Does anybody know where is the transistor ignition unit located? Is it on the pass side under dash? Thanks

I am sorry forgot to mention my car is 5 speed. I think it was manufactured late 1976. I don't know if the 5 speed and 4 speed using the same ECU?

@4.6StangRage: my Z is 1976 but I think those wires would be same from 76 to 78 ( dont know about the turbo one) I did check the circuit for injector using the ECU plugs pins. All of them showed same value and continuous . Didn't check resistance of each in the engine bay yet. If so, what is the resistance's value of each injector. I traced almost all the wires from the ECU to engine bay and to each sensor, double check if anything lose but everything was fine. Took the dropping resistor apart and test resistance show 10.4 ohm equally across all 6 resistors.( dont know if this right value, I am using cheap FREE multimeter from harbor freight)

I don't have noid light to check injector pulse. Need to buy one. Is there anyway to check if my ECU in working condition without getting a second ECU to test it?

Want to buy ECU 280z 1976 MT.

er, I edit a bigger picture.

Here is the handbook: http://4moores.com/280z/files/280zfuelinjectionbook.pdf Guess your car doesn't have injector but you can also check something else.